qikslvr

That's kinda what I was wondering. I have DW740's installed and running at the moment, but with a TDC map. Will ST give me a chance to edit injector scaling on the basemap BEFORE it forces me to load the basemap to the AP and the car?

Cool. I'm in mo big hurry to get back to the track, so I'll take my time and stay conservative when making adjustments. I just want to get the stock turbo and my current setup dialed in for now. Then I'll tackle tuning the 20g later this summer. I'm sure it will all come together once I get ST-A installed and I can actually check the software out. I dumped my current ROM(well part of it) using ECUflash and I've been looking at it in RomRaider so I have an idea of what to expect.

I've been reading every online manual and .pdf's I can find for the last month. It's all soaking in and I think I've got a grip on the material coverd in the Cobb Calibration manual. Quick question. I haven't tried to install yet and I understand the un-marry AP, marry PC to AP, then marry AP to car bit. My question is. When I install ST-A does it want to marry to the AP and the car immediatly or can I install, tweak a map for injectors and then marry things up?

Alright guys. I got my ST-A Monday(tiny box for $400:lol:) and I think my tranny is going to survive the summer, so I'll be starting my tune here shortly. Just fair warning, be prepared for questions.

That's just it. I've got a couple dozen slips from this car. I've taken my time over the last year to step up my launches. Like I said; I usually do the first pass from 2K and just kinda let the clutch out easy and then stomp it. I burned up my stock clutch at the track last year and had a SPEC LWFW and STG2 clutch put in last Sept. I let it break in for over 1K miles before launching it. I've also got an AP Pitch stop and Group N tans mount, so most of the "flex" is gone from the drivetrain. Personally I thought a u-joint, drive shaft or half shaft would have been the next to go. It was just one of those situations where something had to give and it was 1st gear. I did several 3K+ launches last Nov. and everything was great. On Apr 4th I was fine at 3-3.5k, but got a little hop on my last run when I launched at 4K. This time I was just doing a mild 1st pass and everything just hooked up solid and something had to give. I'm used to running this strip at night, so I'm sure the track had a little more stick to it at high noon and 78*F. I usually get just a little tire spin(1/4 turn) or a little spin near redline in first, but not that time. Looks like that SPEC clutch is holding well though. Now does anybody know where I can get a set of rubber gears?

Well, I'm done for the year already. I did 3 runs on Apr. 4th and got 1 in yesterday. I went out yesterday just to make a couple tuning passes and had a minor setback. Appratently she hooked up too well on the first pass and tweaked something in the tranny:redface:. It was weird. I was at the line for a solo run for my first pass of the day. I usually start out easy and then crank it up from there. On this run I was only at 2000RPMS(usualy 3-3.5K) and let the clutch out easy. I got no slip and no spin. Everything just hooked up. I heard a little clunk, but didn't think anything of it since my DP and TMIC tend to bump things on occasion. At the end of the track I slowed down to get my slip and when I put it in 1st to go again; I heard a "rr..rr.rr.rr" whine from the tranny. The car still drives fine and it's just 1st gear that's tweaked, but I'm done with the strip for the year and probably for good. Can you say "road course":lol:. Looks like about $2K for a tranny re-build is in the near future. I drove up to the dealership this morning to have them give it a listen. They said it sounds like a chipped gear in 1st. They said that I might as well just change the fluid and drive it until it's done. Again, it still drives fine, but I've got a nice whine in first. The noise sounds like the whine you get when going in reverse. So to anybody who likes to race their car; be prepared. YOU WILL PAY TO PLAY!!! I can afford it and basically planned on this happening eventually(not this week), but others might want to think twice about your launches. I've been racing for over 20 years and have done more than a few launches in the LGT and would have expected this from a 3K+RPM hard launch, but not from a 2K fairly mild launch. You just never know when the weak link will pop. Looks like that 20g in the kitchen will be sitting for a little while longer or may even go up for sale. Anyone looking for a DB TD06H-20g Zilla? It's still sitting in the sealed box that I got it back from DeadBolt in after the re-cert. Anyway, attached are the results from that $2K run... looks like it could have been a 13.3## run if I had a 1/4 mile track. Not bad on a Stg2 VF40.

True. I went out once at the beginning of April and it was still cold here too. I had the same problems; tires spinning and hopping down the track in first. I even got a third gear scratch on one run:lol:. I only did 3 runs and came up with a best of: R/T ~ .441 60' ~ 1.863 330 ~ 5.564 1/8th ~ 8.539 MPH ~ 81.98 It's funny I've got a decent 60' time and then the tires let loose and it was all down hill from there. We only have an 1/8th mile strip locally and the 1/4's are a few hours away; so I've only got 1/8th mile slips. This is on a Stage2 car with almost every mod available other than meth. Hell, I'd be more than satisfied to break into the 12.9#'s on the stock turbo this year, then I can slap on the 20g-Zilla and see where that takes me.

Anyone have any new build tallies from over the winter? I'll be posting up my list here as soon as I'm ready to do the turbo swap. Just think, most of these don't include tool, fluids and other crap that you bought while doing the build. Throw all those thing in there too and it gets real scary. Then throw in the value of a couple hundred hours of your own labor and it's sickening .

You will probably have to rev to about 1700-2000RPMs to get it to take off smoothly. I had to adjust the way I let the pedal out on mine. I had to let it out faster than the stock unit at first, but now it's like butter even when letting it out slow.That's why I didn't get the Stg2+. My Stg2 is smooth as glass even with 1000RPM creeping. I took mine to the strip last night and the clutch hooked up off the line from 4000RPMs and held just fine. It was a little cool yet (and opeining night)so the track wasn't real sticky so I was hopping around an spinning the tires off the line, but the clutch held fine. Right now I've got EVERY upgrade possible (recently added DW 740cc Injectors,FP mod and Perrin inlet) on a Stg2 setup and the clutch is holding great! No stink, no slip, no chatter and holding fine at ~6K miles. I don't think there's much more power to be made out of my current setup; so I'll say that the Stage2 will take everything a Stage2 LGT can put out, IF the clutch is broken in properly. UNLESS YOU PLAN TO GET A BIGGER TURBO STICK WITH A STAGE 2 CLUTCH PACK!

I just got off the phone with SPEC. We were discussing the TOB noise fix, so I asked for the #'s on the different stages of clutches. Here it is a list of Duty Ratings for SPEC Clutches: All #'s are CRANK HP Stage2 - 400BHP Stage2+ - 430BHP Stage3 - 500BHP Stage3+ - 585BHP Stage4 - 500BHP Stage4+ - 585BHP Stage5 - 665BHP This info is posted on a 3rd party website somewhere but I don't remember which one. More information about disc materials and facing options for each clutch is available at: www.specclutch.com Also, here is a link to JSCSPEED.COM where I got mine. This page has good descriptions and prices for each stage: http://www.jscspeed.com/lgt/clutch/spec.htm Hope this helps everyone with their decision making.

Cool. I just don't want this to turn into a thread where everyone posts up their mods. I'm running these Mods: AEM CAI GTSpec Header w/3 bolt UP Perrin TMIC and LWCP Autospeed Catted DP SPT CBE Cobb AP w/TDC STAGE 2.5 e-tune The clutch locks and holds great at this level. I will find a link to the torque and clamp force ratings for the different SPEC clutch packs. I think the Stage2 clutch should hold up to 327wtq? Mine hooked up great at the track last fall. The tires actually brake loose now when boost hits instead of the clutch slipping. I will be doing a turbo upgrade to a DB TD06-20G Zilla in spring and we'll see how it hold after that. Then I can post some actual dyno numbers.

I believe this is a SPEC Clutch And Lightweight Flywheel Review Thread. Please take any discussion about Turbos and any other Mods to another appropriate thread. Sorry, not trying to be a jerk, but I'm trying to keep this thread clean so others can easily find usefull information in it.

It took almost 2000 miles for my clutch to smooth out and feel like the OE clutch. At first it was real grabby. It just takes awhile to "master" the new setup and get the feel of it. Definately gets better with time.

I used the TOB that came in the clutch kit from SPEC. The flywheel already had a pilot bearing installed when it arrived and there was a 2nd pilot bearing included with the clutch kit.

I wasn't sure if he would get a hold of me since I PM'd him late Thursday night with my contact info and he left at 5am. It actually worked out well as he had to do a little running around while he was here; so he just came over to my house and we thew it on. We got it installed and I had a camerea sitting right there but forgot to take pictures while his IC was off:rolleyes:. Earthworm: Thanks for the eats and drinks! It was nice to get out of the house for a bit without the wife and kids.

Earthworm stopped by last night in his way to the west coast and we fixed his too. It seems like the ACT setup needs far less tension than the SEPC setup to correct the issue. We ended up using a 5Lb spring and bending the bracket a little to get his to quiet down.

For those who need it now… How to make a clutch fork return spring: This is a fix for a TOB are noise caused by the clutch fork vibrating on, skipping off of or rubbing the TOB. This fix will work if when you release the clutch in neutral; the TOB whines or makes noise and you can stop the noise by reaching under the TMIC and applying a small amount of pressure to the back of the clutch fork thus stopping the noise. This method will use a spring to apply just enough tension on the clutch fork to keep it off the TOB when the clutch is out. This is the quick and dirty method. You may want to read the whole thing and measure before you start. You may also want to drill a hole in the clutch fork (good luck). The measurements are off the top of my head. I haven’t seen my bracket for 3 months or more so go long and trim down. Tools needed: Cut-off wheel or saw and a drill with 12mm? drill bit. Materials needed: 6” length of 1” wide metal strap (I used aluminum) and a 3”-4”ish 9lb test spring. The one in the picture is one I didn’t use, but it’s about the same size. I tried 3lb and 5lb springs that I found at the hardware store before settling on the 9 pounder. I ended up using a spring from the fastener isle in Home Depot. They are like the little springs that go on a screen/outer door closer’s chain in plastic bags with a black and yellow card stapled to the top with the test/length info on the back. They had a whole rack of them in different lengths and test/strength ratings. I looked at the springs at the auto parts store, but they were all too long and didn’t have tension ratings for individual springs Make the bracket: Bend to a 90 degree angle about 1.5”-2” from one end. (bracket2.jpg) Mark the center of the short side and drill. Cut off the longer side at about 4” (go a little long to start). (bracket3.jpg) Drill a small hole about 1/8”-1/4” in from the top edge near the center so the ring on the spring can pass through and hook on.Now for the under the hood part to be done with the intercooler removed: Look at picture “clutchspring2.jpg”. The blue circle is where an existing bolt holding a bracket on is located. It’s a 10mm or 12mm bolt. You can remove it, place the short side of the bracket down and replace the bolt. Hook the spring to the small hole in the vertical side of the bracket and pull the spring over to the clutch fork (red circle in last picture). There is a lip on the passenger side of the clutch fork where the spring will effectively clip onto just below the corner of the clutch fork. The spring should just clip on and the tension will hold the spring in place. You may need to loosen the bolt and twist the bracket left to right to get the spring to line up. What you are looking for here is to see that the spring is straight and doesn’t touch the dog bone bolt or the rubber slave cylinder piston cover. You also want to make sure the spring is twisted and hooked correctly so the ring on the clutch fork end is vertical with the open end of the hook facing downward you way need to slightly open up the hook/ring at this end of the spring (Black circle in spring.jpg). This will ensure that the end of the spring’s hook will dig into the finish of the clutch fork when the spring stretches. Look to see if the top of your bracket is level with or lower than the tan plug. When I first installed mine it was fine and cleared the OE TMIC, but I had to shorten it when I put my Perrin TMIC on as it was hitting the bottom of the TMIC. If needed cut the height down a bit and drill a new hole and re install. After you get the bracket fitted you will need to check the clutch pedal. If the spring is too tight it will make the pedal soft or make it fall to the floor. If this happens, just bend the bracket towards the clutch fork a little to relieve some tension. The spring should be tight, but not stretched much if at all. If the clutch pedal feels “normal, then you can re-install the TMIC. Start the car and see if the noise has stopped. If it is still making noise; you can reach under the TMIC from the passenger side and bend the bracket slowly until the noise stops (you may need a small screwdriver to help push on the bracket. It’s a delicate balance between good clutch pedal and no noise. It probably took longer to read this than it will to make and install the bracket and spring, but I spent several hours messing with this and taking my TMIC off a dozen times to get it right. The soft clutch pedal threw me for a second until I realized the fluid was slowly rising in the master cylinder as the spring pulled the fork back too far. If after you apply this fix you have issues with the clutch pedal pushing too far or making it hard to shift when the pedal is all the way to the floor; you may need to adjust your clutch pedal travel which is a whole other walkthrough. I will clean this up get the measurements right and post it in the walkthrough section.

It's 13.8lb IIRC

I have heard of at least 4 other people that have had the TOB squeal issue with the SPEC clutch packs. It's nothing major and won't damage anything. It may even work it's self out during the normal break-in period if you let it. It's just a matter of the clutch fork travel being off by a hairs width and could be quieted completely with the force applied by a pinky on the clutch fork. Again, this is standard and expected on STI's as they have a heavier clutch with a return spring on the fork from the factory. It cost about $7 in parts and took me about 20 minutes to make the bracket and install the spring and I haven't had to touch it since. I really wouldn't call it a "defect", but more of a necessary adjustment when changing to an aftermarket performance clutch. As for the TOB; I would still recommmend/use the one that comes in the kit. Also, I don't see any reason to change forks and risk having to take the tranny back out if it doesn't work correctly at least my method is adjustable, quick and easy. At most I might try to drill a hole in the original clutch fork while it's out. I will post pictures of the bracket and get better pictures of the install points when possible.

The spring was added by ME. It is not an OE part. Myself and a couple other people had an issue with the TOB rubbing the clutch fork when the clutch was released. You could put your hand under the TMIC and just lightly push the top of the fork and the noise would stop. Again. I made the bracket and purchased the 9LB spring from Home Depot. The STI comes with a clutch fork return spring from the factory for this reason. As for the gear noise; it's not damage or a reliability problem. This noise is simply noise that has always been there, but was absorbed by the OE Dual Mass Flywheel. It's called "gear mesh noise" and it's just part of the deal when you use a LWFW. There is a lot less metal weight/density to absorb the noise so it becomes audible in the cabin. It gets real loud with a "STI group N hardened tranny mount" installed. I switch between the OE mount and the STI mount during the warmer months. I intall the STI mount when I plan to go to the track and put the OE mount back in for road trips and such. There are trade-off that you must take into consideration when going from stock to aftermarket clutches. Noise Vibration and Harshness are among them. From what I have heard; the Stage 2+ and Stage 3 kits have even more NVH than the Stage2 setup. **THIS THREAD IS FOR THE REVIEW AND DISCUSSION OF THE SPEC STAGE 2 CLUTCH AND LWFW. I WANT TO KEEP IT CLEAN; SO IF YOU WANT TO DISCUSS OTHER BRANDS OR STAGES OF CLUTCHES, PLEASE START YOUR OWN THREAD!!!!!!!

I posted this in the reviews section, but couldn't post pictures so here is another copy. Spec Clutch Review Car: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT 5MT Power Modifications: GTSpec Header/UP, Perrin TMIC, Autospeed Catted DP, SPT CBE, AEM CAI Running a TDC Stage 2.5/93 e-tuned map Spec Stage 2 Clutch Kit ~ Part #SUS252 $575 From JSCSPEED.COM Spec Lightweight Flywheel ~ Part#SU25A $359 From JSCSPEED.COM Clutch and Flywheel were installed by veteran Subaru mechanic at Dealership. $535 Total Parts and Labor ~ $1469 I've waited for several thousand miles and a few months before posting this to make sure the clutch was properly broken in. There were a few minor adjustments needed during the break-in period, but nothing to complain about. Break-In Experiences: 0-10 Miles ~ Clutch pedal travel was off so I had to adjust clutch pedal travel. Fixed issue. 10-100 Miles ~ Clutch was real grabby with lots of chatter and made some TOB noise with clutch out. I had to install a 9lb. clutch fork return spring (like on STI's)to pull fork back off the TOB when clutch was out. Fixed issue. (Picture Below) 100-500 miles ~ I took it real easy during this time. I had to rev to 1700-2000RPMs for smooth quiet take-off. I couldn’t feather the clutch very well yet. It worked best to just let the clutch out at higher R’s and just go. There was still quite a bit of chatter when pulling away or creeping slowly in traffic. 500-1000 miles ~ I got a little more aggressive and floored it a few times. Everything held great with no slippage. Now clutch doesn’t slip, but tires will spin a little at about 4500RPM’s in first. Found the sweet spot where the clutch engages; it’s just before half way. I could now at least do a “clutch stand” on a hill at 1000RPMs with no noise. 1000-2000 miles ~ The clutch finally started to feel like the stock one again and has quieted down a lot. It only clicks or chatters a little when it’s cold (below 32F) until everything warms up. Clutch engagement is smooth as the stock one was, but this one has far more grip, especially at high R’s and on shifts. I can now roll off the line from ~1200RPMs with very little chatter or driveline vibe. 2000-25000 mile ~ Clutch broke in fine and is still holding. Going on two year and over 25K miles of regular driving with it's fair share of abuse. Even holds perfectly with a DB 20G Zilla Turbo putting down power in excess of 350WHP/350WTQ. It will definately last longer than the stock clutch at any level. All in all I’m very happy with this setup. It has held up to my expectations so far. I will say that at first; I was a little concerned with the noise and the way it grabbed off the line and on down shifts. It was real jerky and you had to rev match perfectly; which was hard at first with the flywheel, it makes the gas pedal real touchy and the RPMs just kind of hang up high for a split second longer on shifts. I found that if you just don’t completely let off the gas when shifting up or down it will engage a lot smoother. The Lightweight Flywheel makes for a little gear noise on vibration at times. Since it doesn’t have a Dual Mass design it won’t dampen as much noise or vibration, so you should expect to hear more chatter on take off and some rolling gear noise when you let off the gas and coast or use the transmission to slow down. I usually only hear it in 3rd and 4th gear above 2K RPMs. It all sounds and feels pretty rough in the beginning, but it hasn’t slipped or spun on my yet so I guess we’ll see how long it lasts. **THIS THREAD IS FOR THE REVIEW AND DISCUSSION OF THE SPEC STAGE 2 CLUTCH AND LWFW. I WANT TO KEEP IT CLEAN; SO IF YOU WANT TO DISCUSS OTHER BRANDS OR STAGES OF CLUTCHES, PLEASE START YOUR OWN THREAD!!!!!!! ***Pictures are 800x600-ish but files are large...

Check for pre-turbo exhaust leaks as suggested by others. If the noise goes away when you floor it, you are probably hearing the BOV/BPV, but if it gets louder under boost then it's more than likely a tea-kettle whistle caused by a blown or leaky gasket at the Manifold->UP or UP to Turbo. If the UP has been changed; I would put money on it that one of the gaskets failed or needs to be re-torqued. It probably starts at 3K as boost builds and then fades off a bit after 4K as boost starts to taper off. If so change your gaskets.

You need to start clicking while the initial 6 ding cycle is still going. Also you need to fully lock it on each click(you can't hold down the red release button). It has to be exactly 20 clicks and leave it clicked on click #20, then turn the ignition off, count to 5 and turn it back on. The initial 6 dings will still be there, but it should't do it anymore after those 6 dings. Try it again and start the car with your belt on then take it off after the car has been running for about 30 seconds to check. Each time you do the 20 click cycle it will either turn the dinger off or back on, so if you did the cycle twice thinking that it didn't work the first time; it will turn it back on. hope this makes sense.

+1 The safe approach to getting more power without getting dangerous or out of hand would be a SIMPLE Stage2. UP, DP, Access Port and a good tune would be pretty "safe" and inexpensive for a DD.

The next mod should be to get a better paying job or a rich spouse that can afford to dump thousands and thousands of dollars into your car.