qikslvr

Almost 10K miles on the SPEC Stg2 clutch and LWFW and it's still holding great with no issues.

I'm pretty sure the JSC listing read the same(no tob) when I ordered mine. If you look at the first picture in the first post you can see the part number and my actual sealed clutch pack. Mine came with the TOB(upper right pic #1), clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and alignment tool. They may have changed it though. I order it and see what comes and go get a TOB from a dealership or parts store if it's not included.

Actually my TDC is at 3.52 which is what it sat at when idling before I upped the zero throttle column values. I'll up it a little more and see what happens. But ya I see why people use both OS editors and ST.

What do i have to do to get my idle up to 900RPMs? I changed the idle tables in the BM and I've also increased TDC at ZERO throttle to 2.51 to help with the LWFW, but it still sits at around 750-800RPMs and bounces around sometimes when I put the clutch in. It even dies once in a while when I push the clutch too quick.

Cool. Thanks for the info.

I noticed something weird about my ST-A software. When in "live tuning" and "live trace" mode; all of my temp correction driven parameters with names like "coolant temp boost correction" show the coolant temp to be pegged to 230 degrees even from a cold start where the needle is all the way at the bottom. The guage list will show the actual coolant temp, but the trace shows it in the 230 range. Are there two different coolant temp sending units or is this a software error? I know my Jeeps all had one sending unit to drive the guage and one to feed the ECU.

You need to bleed the clutch system or adjust the tension on the return spring(if you have one installed). quote from earlier post: "After you get the bracket fitted you will need to check the clutch pedal. If the spring is too tight it will make the pedal soft or make it fall to the floor. If this happens, just bend the bracket towards the clutch fork a little to relieve some tension. The spring should be tight, but not stretched much if at all. If the clutch pedal feels “normal, then you can re-install the TMIC."

Just a quick update. I've got my TMIC and AEM CAI back on, my fuel trims are basically 0, my wideband AFR's damn near match requested exactly, I'm hitting bost targets and all the scaling is complete. Now I have to go back and work on timing again. Since I got my CAI calibrated; I leaned out a little, so I had to drop a degree or two of timing here and there to make it happy again. I think I'm getting there.

Well, I'm about done dialing in my WOT timing with DA of 6 down the column and I'm almost ready to load a map with scaled load values. After I get the new load columns dialed in; I'll throw the Perrin TMIC back on and adjust for it. After that I should be able to put my AEM CAI back on and tune for it right?

There's a little learning curve to comparing map in the two that's for sure. Like you said, I'm sure most of the "extra" tables in ST are for most part duplicates or useless and there is a comprable table in RR somewhere. I must admit that I like the live trace feature. When I was tuning that little knock event out; It was great how the cursor just ziped over to the right and sat in the two cells that neeed adjustment. That in it's self makes the price paid well worth it. So far I'm loving this, but it's real time consuming. It's good to have others who use both so I have something to compare to. Now I'm off to scale my Loads. Another hundred hours behind the keyboard and I should have some clue what I'm doing:lol:.

Maybe I just haven't matched every table in both yet or it's the totally different names and values in certain tables that's throwing me, but they seem different. StreetTuner Advanced looks like it has 3 more Idle tables, 4 more CL tables , a Cruise table , and a couple other tables that I don't find matches for in the RR dump of my old map. RR has a few that aren't matched to ST-A too. I'm sure I'll figure out which is which in the two softwares with a bit more time.

It took a couple of adjustments to get it to go away. ST wouldn't let me do a .2 adjustment, so I just used the small decrease, logged and got the same result, did another small decrease again and now it's logging clean and the timing curve is smoothed out now too. I haven't done a run all the way to redline yet, but I did get a couple logs from 2-5.5k RPMs and the knock event is gone in that range. I've got a RomRaider dump of my last tune/basemap and I've been comparing maps between RR and ST so I'll have a better idea of what is different between the two, so we can communicate better. There are actually quite a few major differences between the two softwares. ST has some table that aren't in RR and vise versa. Looks like I'll probably end up using both ST and RR to complete my tune. I've started another rev. of this map that'll have Pri.Fuel, Pri.Ign and DA scaled out to at least 3.00 g's/rev. Once I get that covered; I think I'll start working boost and spool.

I think I got the knock worked out and I'm working on getting the Load scaling done. So far so good.

Here is my first 3rd gear log after installing ST-A. This is on a OTS Cobb Stg2 Basemap that has been adjusted for DW740cc injectors. Nothing else has been changed in the map other than Injector Scaling, Latency and a little Intake Calibration at idle. My fuel trims are hanging stable between +/-3%. Here is the short list of my installed power mods: Stock Intake with OE paper filter Perrin Turbo Inlet GTSPEC Header/UP AutoSpeed Catted DP SPT CBE I'll work on tuning for my AEM CAI and Perrin TMIC/BOV back on once I get the current setup dialed in a little better. Again, this is my first WOT run after setting up the Cobb Stg2-91 ST Basemap for my injectors running 93oct fuel. Let me know if it looks safe to proceed so far. I know I need to look at the timing tables and I need to do something with spool up, but I just want a thumbs up from a resident expert before I proceed and make further adjustments. Thanks guys. EDIT Here is a link to the log files: New logs with FB and FLC: www.oepsp.com/Stg291_3rd_1.csv www.oepsp.com/Stg291_3rd_2.csv You can open it from the web or right click and save target as... then you can open it. I can't upload any files to lgt.com right now for some reason.

O.K. so I finally decided to do the ST-A install last night. It all went pretty smooth except for when I re-installed the stock intake. My AEM CAI adjusted map did not like it at all. I had to pump/feather the gas to get it pulled 10 feet into the garage for the night. I did the un-marry, ST-A'd the AP married it back up with the "05 LGT 5MT update". I then went in and edited a Cobb Stg2/91 base map(running 93oct fuel) with my injector scaling, FIBET and latency values. I then went out and refalshed the base again without having started the car. So I guess I got my answer. Yes, you can edit a BaseMap before you start the car and then flash it so scaling is close for the first time the car is started. I just made sure to shut the car off and turn it back on with the test connectors un-hooked between flashes. I was thouroughly amazed when it actually fired right up(12:30 a.m.) and idled pretty smooth:). I haven't done anything more than that yet, but I'll be dialing in the fuel injectors and intake later today. Hopefully I'll have some logs to look at here shortly. I haven't hooked the laptop up to the car yet, so I'm sure I'll have a few questions when I do.

Thanks, I actually might need that! If I didn't just sell my Jeep I'd have an extra car sitting here so I'd have all the time in the world to get the LGT moving. As things sit right now; I pretty much gotta get it at least drivable over a weekend.

That's kinda what I gathered from all the documentation. You have to get the car, ST and the AP on the same page with the first BM flash, then do some "offline" adjustments and flash my "working BM" again. I'm sure it will all go alright once I get started, I'm just trying to prepare myself for a bit of a learning curve and a long day. I've got a nice variable charger that should help keep the battery alive while the AP takes it's sweet azz time flashing. Sorry for all the dumb questions and thanks for your input. It's just one hell of a leap of faith to scrap my working map and start from scratch on my own first tune:redface:. Believe me, I'm not young or dumb; this is just new territory for me.

That's what I was wondering. I will have to use one of their basemaps just to get things married and started, then do the scaling and re-save as a base and then re-flash and start tuning in RT right?

Injectors have been running in the car for about 2 month already. Not much for choice on that. One of the stockers is bad so I can't go back to them.

Cool. That's what I was looking for. I will need to do the entire divorce and re-marry procedure and start from scratch. I've got my wideband installed and working. It logs fine/consistantly with romraider, so I have all the ports configured and it should be ready to go. I've got the AP cable on port 9 and my WBO2 is port 4. I'll have to do some injector scaling for my DW740's. I will put the stock intake back on for a little bit so I don't have to mess with both injectors and intake right off. I just want to make sure that I will be able to putt around the mile by Monday. I will probably start the install process Friday night and see how far I get and then start dialing things in Saturday morning.

Alright guys one last question before I get started tuning this weekend. About how much time should I set aside to get the initial scaling done and have a "drivable" vehicle that will make it around the mile to drop kids off at school?

I was going to start down the ST path today, but I've got other things that came up and the wife needs to drive the LGT to work Monday so I'll probably hold off unitl next weekend to start re-building.

That's it 3654. Thanks. Sorry it's not memorized yet, I have it saved in the calibration spreadsheet and saw it in one of the dw740 threads. I think I just have a little info overload at the moment. I've been cramming tuning info for a month and it's kinda like it's finals week and tomorrow is the exam:lol:. I pretty much just want to make sure the car will start, run and drive on the Base map just in case anything happened to wipe my RT map unexpectedly. I try to keep my AP with me, but it does get left home once in a while.

Yup, I plan to re-install the stock intake. I have the flow test page from DW and a calculated base number for the injector scaling(3563-ish) and they are modified stockers so the latency should remain the same as or close to stock. I guess I'll just have to get up early tomorrow and just do it. Hopefully, it will let me change that injector scaler number upfront without too much hassle. Other than that, I think I have the rest covered for the moment.

O.K. I was wondering if I would have to load a map and then pull it back off and make adjustments and re-flash. In all the literature it says to load a Cobb map, start the car and then make the adjustments. They say it might run rough, but too deal with it. I don't think the car will even start on a stock map and 740's. Would it? Could I just make the scaling changes (in realtime) while the key is in the "ON" position and then start the car and dial things in? Sorry guys, I just want to have a game plan before I start this process.