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Will do. Will somebody please post a good link to a retailer/Ebayer that will actually send you something when you give them money:).

You just need to pay attention to where you are putting the file when you download it. When you click on a file to download it and then click SAVE; it will pop up an explorer window that should have to location it's saving to listed in the address bar. Write it down if you have to. Windows genreally defaults to a folder in My Documents. The other method is to change the folder during the download to one you can easilly find or just put it on the desktop. Not to be a dick here or anything, but if you don't have sharp enough computer skills to figure out where a downloaded file goes; I'm thinking that messing with your cars ECU may not be such a good idea;).

Let me find all my older versions and ECU defs and I'll find somewhere to post them.

Keep an eye on the for sale threads. A used copy of ST comes through there about once a month. Ther might even be one for an 05MT listed right now. Let me look and if it's still there; I'll post a link.

Just make sure it's the right map. Then just follow the same instructions except you will click the "Write" button instead of the "READ" button. You may also want to perform a "test write" before you commit to the flash.

I understand what needs to occur for the IAM to pop up, but don't clearly understand what would prevent from incrementing. I just ran into an issue where I could get map "A" to pop up to 1.00 before the end of the first mile after a warm reset. Then I could stop in a parking lot, reset the ECU and load map "B" (which is map "A" with a small tweak to WGDC and boost targets around 5.2K RPMs). Then it wouldn't come off .7 even after hours of driving. Sometimes it would jump right up one increment to .9 and stay there and on a rare occasion it would actually pop right up to 1.00. I've got a boost gauge and can plant the needle wherever I want and keep it there, but it just didn't always work on that map. It didn't knock, AFR's were spot on, and it seemed to run clean, but the multiplier just wouldn't inc. I could tell within a block or two if it wasn't going to go; I just don't know why. Another weird thing is that even after map "B" didn't/wouldn't incrememnt; I could load map "A" without a reset and the IAM would go right to 1.00 as it should and then reload map "B" again and all was good with no drop in IAM ever. So... map "A" was fine, but ANY change to it would result in a map that had a hard time getting to 1.00. I'm off onto other things now, but it was just a weird occurance that I never quite figured out.

You may have been the first to buy and get the cheap cables to work. I've never claimed to be the first;). I'm just the guy who took the time to write it all down and post it up for everyone to reference. As a matter of fact. I have rarely used my cable or ECUflash(maybe twice) as I am an APv1 cable and StreetTuner-Advanced user personally, so most of what I spew out is from memory. It just happens that in a former life/career I was a Network Admin/Configuration Analyst who was responsible for developing bullet-proof/idiot-proof documentation for manually installing/configuring about 50 software packages identically on several thousand desktops with different OS/hardware setups. This was back in the days before imaging software and push technology were developed. Maybe I should include step by step screen shots too. The most important thing to remember here is that if one of the programs work; then the other should too. It's just a matter of procedure.

Sorry I've been MIA for a while. Went on vacation. Thanks for helping each other out while I was gone. Blue cable should work using these instructions as that is the cable I used when I developed the write-up. Most problems do originate from improper driver install, COM Port configuration(BAUD rate, not bit rate), vehicle def selection or from doing instructed steps out of sequence. There seems to be an issue with the links to the RR archive and the older versions of software. I'll look into it and see what I can figure out.

Here is a link to the page with all the versions. They are listed by date. This write up was written based on version 1.34 found here: http://www.openecu.org/index.php?title=EcuFlash&action=history I believe any version before 1.34 or "22:30, 6 November 2007" will work.

THIS CABLE WILL NOT WORK WITH CAN-BUS ECU's. However, if you have done ANY research into the subject; you would already know that.

So what would keep the IAM from popping up to 1.0 ? Mine usually will pop up from .70(.6895?) to .9#(.9285?) to 1.0 within a few blocks and a couple blips of the pedal, but sometimes after an ECU reset(even while car is warm); I can drive for miles without a knock or anything and it just won't pop up to 1. WTF? BTW these are know "good" or "clean" maps too.

Did you ever get it to work right. I saw that FishBOne is dropping packets too. I've never had that issue with any of the cables I have had. Make sure that the BAUD rate in the "advanced setting" for the COM port is set to 4800. I usually just use my APv1 cable to log, but I'll get one of my VAG-COM cables out and do some logging with it to see if it's missing data. IF it does, I'll find the fix;).

I have an AP aluminum pitch stop with hard poly bushings and I will only install it when I go to the track. I can't handle all the noise all the time. I get sick of my STI group N tranny mount too. I'm hoping that the STI engine mounts will hold things still so I can put some softer mounts back in the rear. I'm having a real hard time not putting a stock FW back in when I have the tranny rebuilt(when it ever actually blows). I'd leave the SPEC Stg2 clutch and PP, but the LWFW needs to go. Mine isn't so bad off the line as it is coasting. Lately it just sounds like it's going to come apart in pretty much every gear. Maybe the 20g is taking it's toll:redface:, but I still think it's the FW. That and it triggers my knock sensor everytime I take off from a dead stop. I don't know that I actually ever felt a real performance difference. I do know that the LWFW made my tranny loud as hell though:mad:.

Thanks. Just trying to keep things clean and get it all in one post while keeping logging and flashing apart so no one gets confused. I'll go back and collect as much of the logging info as I can and put in the first post of that thread too so I have a complete walkthrough in one post there too.

Thanks. Just trying to keep the logging and flashing discussions in different threads so newer users don't confuse any of the instructions or troubleshooting. As always, feel free to add anything that you do differently or correct me if I missed something. Most of these walkthroughs are written off the top of my head. Screenshots are in the works for both this thread and the loggin thread.

Good to hear. You can either move the files/defs into the RR directory or start the software and point it to the folder where they were unzipped. It's all in the details.

I started a new thread for using the Autonostics and VAG-COM cables to read and flash ECU's so let's migrate any flashing conversations over there if you would please:D;). Just trying to keep the logging info and flashing info seperate.

Figured that we should start a new thread for flashing so we don't confuse people who are just trying to log. This thread will discuss anything related to flashing with OS software. We can also include the use of the RR map editor in this thread too. Here is the quick rundown of the steps needed to read or flash the ECU using an Autpnostics or VAG-COM cable other than the Tactrix cable. I will get screenshots eventually and post them here too. A couple steps are just little things to make sure it's hassle free. Some people may flip a couple steps around, but this is my basic ritual when using ECU flash. Warning!!NEVER try to Read or Flash the ECU if ANY other program/driver has locked up since the last reboot! This can cause the PC to lock up in the middle of an image and that's not good so please only do this if you understand the risk involved and are willing to accept it. Again, failure to follow these procedures to the letter may result in a "bricked" or unusable ECU. You are doing this at your own risk. Here we go: 1. Get in the car. 2. Connect the GREEN "TEST" connectors that can be found just a hair to the drivers side of dead center behind the glovebox. They are tucked away in a little compartment behind the top of the carpet. Find them and connect them. 3. Reboot the computer and/or let it completely boot up.(Just to make sure the drivers are all clean) 4. Connect the OBDII end of the cable into the car's OBDII port if it isn't already. The OBDII port can be found below the dash on the driver's side off to the left of center. 5. Connect the USB end into the computer and wait a few seconds. It takes the computer a few seconds to find, recognize and load the driver for the cable. 6. Turn the key to the "ON" position. At this point the dash should light up like a Christmas tree, the fan should start cycling on and off. 7. Start ECUflash, You should be able to select Read from the file menu. 8. A window will pop up. This looks like a logging window, but it actually wants you to select your ECU/Vehicle, so select your vehicle class from the list. 9. Click the button at the bottom of the pop-up windowand it should start reading and logging progress. Your odometer should read "ErHC" after you connect to the ECU. 10. Once the image is read or burned, you can exit ECU flash and turn the key to the "OFF" position. 11. DISCONNECT THE GREEN TEST CONNECTORS!! 12. Turn the key forward and wait until the seatbelt dinger stops and then start the car. Any time the ECU is reset or re-flashed; it needs to re-boot. This is done when the key is first turned to the "ON" position and takes about ten seconds. If you don't wait for the re-boot; you will just be cranking and wearing down your battery until the ECU is ready to go, so just be patient and wait for it. 13. Enjoy! ********************************************************************************* If you still need to install the drivers for your cable or get it configured correctly please read below. This is taken from my other thread "Using the Autonostics Cable to Datalog": http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96737&page=6 Here is what you need to get started: First off you will need a driver for the cable that is not included with it. This is the winXP driver we use: FTDI 2.04.06 Others are available here : http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm Extract the .zip file and remember where you put it as you will need it when you plug the cable into the usb port and the install box pops up. During the driver install; point Windows Installer to the folder where you placed the unzipped files and install the driver. You may need to adjust the cable's/driver's COM port settings in order to get it to work properly: 1. Go into Device Manager for Windows(right click "my computer" on desktop, go to Properties, then Hardware tab and click "Device Manager" button) 2. Look under ports(COM and LPT) for the FTDI port(cable must be plugged into the computer at this point) and right click and go into properties for the FTDI cable driver. 3. Go to the Port Settings Tab click the ADVANCED button and look at the BAUD Rate. If it is 9600; you will need to drop the box and change it to 4800. 4. This should slow the data rate of the driver/port and allow the cable to connect to the car's ECU properly. Be sure to note the COM port number assigned to the FTDI port as you will need to select it in the logging software. The ECUflash I used to read my ECU image/ROM is available here: http://www.openecu.org/index.php?title=EcuFlash THIS CABLE WILL NOT WORK WITH CAN-BUS ECU's. However, if you have done ANY research into the subject; you would already know that. That is the reason they created the Tactrix v2 cable...

Changed it to say that the "ErHC" should come up after you connect to the ECU.

Here is the quick rundown(off the top of my head) of the steps needed to read/flash. A couple are just little things to make sure it's hassle free. Some people may flip a couple steps around, but this is my basic ritual when using ECU flash. Warning!!NEVER try to Read or Flash the ECU if ANY other program/driver has locked up since the last reboot! This can cause the PC to lock up in the middle of an image and that's not good so please only do this if you understand the risk involved and are willing to accept it. Try this: 1. Get in the car. 2. Connect the green "TEST" connectors that can be found just a hair to the drivers side of dead center behind the glovebox. They are tucked away in a little compartment behind the top of the carpet. Find them and connect them. 3. Reboot the computer and/or let it completely boot up.(just to make sure the drivers are all clean) 4. Connect the OBDII end of the cable into the car if it isn't already. 5. Connect the USB end into the computer and wait a few seconds. 6. Turn the key to the "ON" position. At this point the dash should light up like a Christmas tree, the fan should start cycling on and off. and your odometer should read "ErHC" after you connect to the ECU. 7. Start ECUflash, You should be able to select Read, select your ECU/Vehicle, click the button and it should start reading. Your odometer should read "ErHC" after you connect to the ECU. I'll clean this up and start a new thread for "Using the Autonostics/VagCom Cable to Read/Flash".

The ErHC on the dash means that the software has connected to the ECU and is trying to read it. Did you choose the correct vehicle/ECU from the list in the pop up window after you click read?

Good question. I believe Cobb uses the AP hardware to do the OBDII ECU flashing translation; where, the Tactrix and Autonostic cables have hardware built in to do the same thing. Example: You can't install a Basemap from the StreetTuner Software on a laptop, you can load realtime maps just like the AP, but no Basemaps without the actual AP. I can use my APv1 cable and StreetTuner-Advanced to get what you guys call the "learning view" as it is just a couple tables in the map that hold those learned values. However, when I try to use the software "Learning Viewer" with my Cobb APv1 cable the computer blue screens and reboots(hopefuly:lol:it is Microsoft ya know). Using the Autonostics cable I can do the exact opposite. I can do everything including read and write my Cobb AP Basemap, but I can't hook up to ST-A or the AP. So it's the cable.

My security light always flashes with the key out of the ignition. Always has. Doors don't even need to be locked. It starts flashing like 5 seconds after the key is removed...

I don't think it works with the CAN bus vehicles. You would probaby have to get the Tactrix v2 (or whatever it is) cable.