pleiadesfella

that sounds like a great time and I really appreciate the offer, but I unfortunately can't afford to have a second vehicle. my plan is to either move out west (not much use for an obxt there ) or vacation out of the country for a year, and in both cases the second car is illogical to keep . I got a quote today from MVS canada to see how much it would cost to ship both cars by rail from moncton to vancouver, and it was 5 grand. I would much rather sell the auto and use that money to ship only my spec b out west, it just makes more sense to me. and if I can't find work and end up vacationing instead, I also don't want to pay $1100 to store it while I'm gone. the question of "why don't you swap your built motor into your spec b?" might come up, and the truth is that was the whole plan when I first bought my spec b last year. however, the stock engine in the spec b is holding up really well and seems to be well maintained, and after driving it for a while I realized how much I loathed the piston slap in my forged engine and how long I would have to warm it up on cold mornings so it wouldn't sound like the engine was killing itself while driving. I know slap is normal with forged pistons, and it might sound like I'm exaggerating with how bad it is, but it's REALLY loud on my car for some reason. much louder than most examples on youtube, and the slap doesn't fully subside even when warm (though it does quiet down by alot). I'd also have to swap some mods over from the spec b motor to my forged engine since the spec b is tuned. and if it does end up blowing, I'll replace it with an RA shortblock this time .

trust me, I've been scouring canada wide kijiji ads for legacies for a while now. I think I know what you mean by the prefacelift wagon example, the silver 05 automatic wagon for $5500 in london right? honestly I wish I could buy that to swap my motor into that instead lol. I just haven't seen a single ad where the car is a poor condition automatic but the engine is a low mileage forged build, so I don't have much to work off of. as much as parting out and junking the body is a good idea, I unfortunately don't have the means to do a proper partout since I live in an apartment with no garage and no tools . I wonder if I could ask symmetrical to part it out for me. hell, even if they just sell the engine for 3-4k and give that money to me, I would let them keep the rest of the car lol.

hey all, I swear there was a "what is my car worth" thread somewhere, but couldn't find it. moderators feel free to move the thread to a different category if I'm in the wrong place. tl;dr: I want to sell my automatic 2007 gt in relatively poor condition with fading paint, peeling clearcoat, underbody rust and bad rust on rear arches but the engine was rebuilt in 2019 with forged pistons and new internals - only ~15k kilometers on rebuild. how do I price the damn thing? so I'm looking to sell my 2007 5eat gt limited as I will be moving (or vacationing far away) from this hellhole soon, and I won't be in the position to hold onto both cars. the problem is, I have no clue on how to price it because its backstory and current condition are a little... odd. this was my first ever car, and I bought it for 4000 canadian dollars back in early 2019. as you could probably tell from the price, it already wasn't in stellar condition when I first bought it but it was in better shape than it is today. the thing is, this being my first car and me being a clueless idiot back then, I didn't know how temperamental these engines were and ended up spinning good old rod bearing #3 while trying to double the freeway limit after finally getting my summer tires on (told ya I was a clueless idiot back then ). so after being unable to offload the car as a shell over the summer, I decided to get it rebuilt at a reputable subaru tuner in my region - that being symmetrical autoworks. I knew it would cost me, but at the time I had no other choice and needed to get back to having a car soon since winter was coming. after some back and forth, I ended up getting the engine rebuilt with 100mm wiseco forged pistons, oem sti forged rods, 2019+ sti nitride treated crankshaft and king race rod bearings. fyi I didn't end up paying extra for the wiseco pistons over oem pistons as they misquoted the price of the piston rings as the price of the pistons when I was first inquiring about build pricing. now this obviously means that the block was split into halves and rebored at a machine shop. heads were also machined at the same shop. they also installed a new vf40 (not the oem vf46) since the stock turbo had shaft play and probably had metal in it. parts that could be reused were reused (old intake manifold, intercooler, etc) and everything else was replaced with new original oem parts. this rebuild ended up costing me $8000 canadian (front brakes also had to be replaced since calipers were sticking due to the car sitting for so long). as much as I am grateful for symmetrical's work on the car, the engine has very audible piston slap on a cold start, and while it does quiet down after being properly warmed up and driven, it never really subsides. I thought I could deal with it, but at this point I do regret going with the rebore and forged pistons. however, this has caused 0 issues in the last 4 years and the car has always remained drivable and reliable. the car is still running the stock tune, and is completely stock with exception of the engine internals. by late 2019, I had spent a grand total of $12k canadian on this car, most of it being the rebuild and brake repair costs. at this point I kind of resented the car and didn't have much money left over while paying off the repair debt, so I never bothered to get it undercoated. this caused the already existing rust to build up badly over the last 4 winters I've been through with it. don't get me wrong, the rust isn't bad enough to cause any structural issues with the car. since it keeps passing inspection, I assume there are no holes in the floor and rockers. however, there is a bad rust hole in the passenger side rear arch which my father closed up with jb weld since we needed a quick fix at the time. the rust on the driver side doors is also getting very bad on the bottoms of the doors. the underbody also doesn't look flattering - the control arms and sway bars have a nice coat of rust on them as well. the paint is also bad. the whole front end of the car and a small front section of the roof have faded paint. the clearcoat is peeling badly on the rear bumper. I think the grille has been plastidipped black by the last owner and its been chipping away. I am also unsure if this is an accident car or not since the hood seems to be slightly misaligned. there are several scratches, dents and dings all over the car, with the most noticeable being some dents with scratches on the rear driver's side door and a brown stained dent on the right side of the rear bumper caused by hitting a dumpster. I also think the transmission has been going bad for the last 2 years or so, as it shift shocks somewhat often and seems to slip at low rpms. I cannot get up to freeway speeds without full throttling and letting it drop gears to reach 4500 rpm. unsure if this is all a TCU problem (doubt it because I had it reset in 2020) or an actual mechanical problem with the transmission. the mileage is ~227k kilometers. interior is in okay condition, just needs a good cleaning. so, with all of these considered, how do I price the car? I don't want to give it away for cheap considering the engine build, but at the same time I fully understand that I can't get even close to what I spent back since the car is a rusty automatic. I've been thinking of starting it at $6000 canadian (so around $4500 usd) and maybe taking offers from there, but I'm really unsure. I will try to get up to date pics of the car later, but for now I will post older pics of it and its flaws. it does look worse now than it did back then, but that's mostly due to the rear arch rust and door rust. congrats if you read this all the way through

took some nice-ish photos of my admittedly dirty spec b today. wish it was clean, but ah well unfortunately only had my phone on me as I went for a spontaneous backroad drive after work since the weather was nice for once, so the pics look a bit blurry. maybe after I get the car detailed, I'll come back with my camera to this spot.

give your car a good lookover and see if its even worth spending thousands to fix. I made this mistake with my rustbucket gt I bought for $4k and paid $8k to get rebuilt, and I've lowkey regretted it since. your car is auto, and if its rusty and high mileage, I'd say junk it or part it out. sounds harsh I know, but I wish someone would have told me this years ago when I blew my motor. I could've gotten something in much better shape with the grand total of $12k I had to spend. maybe it would be worth fixing up if it's a wagon since they're harder to find, or if its a sedan in exceptional condition. I think at this point someone needs to make a flowchart on what condition lgt would be worth repairing lol. I know you're going to be doing the work yourself, but you also have to consider the time you have to spend fixing the engine properly and if it really will be worth it for an auto lgt in the end. what you're going to end up paying for parts will also likely be higher than $2500 - that'll get you an RA shortblock and maybe turbo at most. in any case, best of luck

gotta get me a set of these on my next tire change

hey, I still think my tires were a pretty good deal for what they are and OP, don't fret over all the choices and pricing. as long as you choose a reputable brand and do the research on the model of tire you're getting you'll be alright in the end. there are some people in my area who throw out the stock dunlops/yokohamas mounted on oem enkeis/bbs on their stis in exchange for garbage like ESR wheels combined with cheap shit tires like ironman or whatever. as long as you're not like these people, you'll do fine. when I say I got my bridgestones for cheap, I mean I just got a great deal on what is normally a pricey tire. keep your eyes peeled and you'll find the right deal for your use case eventually. also just to clarify, in my last message I meant I got a set of potenza RE-71RS, not RE-71R. my fault for typing in lowercase like a lazy idiot . the RE-71R is out of production, the RE-71RS is it's replacement. there's a 1000hp s15 in japan running this tire so it can't be all that bad lol.

heh, you're in the same boat I was a couple of months ago. I ended up getting a set of bridgestone potenza re-71rs from costco since they had a crazy deal going on back then (they were the cheapest tire available in the size I needed somehow). most user reviews for this tire say that they're "autocross only" but this is untrue, I use them on my spec b which is currently my daily and I love them. I switched to these from a set of really worn (and oversize) indy 500s, and it was a night and day difference. despite being a high performance tire, they were very comfortable even on our terrible freeways, and are very smooth and grippy around corners. they're not too noisy, just a slight tapping sound at freeway speeds (my bridgestone blizzak winters on the other hand sound like a whole woodpecker in the car at above 60mph). unfortunately, I didn't have the chance to push them in the rain. it's been raining here the whole week and I did end up on my favorite backroad the other day but I was stuck behind a cr-v going the speed limit the whole time . however, most reviews for the re-71rs also say that they're superb in the rain, and I wouldn't doubt this even for a second. just beware that these are a 200tw tire, so you'll go through a set faster than indy 500s and ps4s. I don't do as much driving as other members here, so these tires will definitely last me a long time but they might not for you. the only michelins I ever had were a set of winter tires which I only used for a month before I lost them (long story about that one lol), so I can't say for sure that the bridgestones are better or worse in any category than the pilot sports. in fact these are the first new tires I ever got that weren't winter tires, so that might be skewing my judgment a bit. but I'm for sure happy with them

well, the controversial styling and the low power are the deal killers for me, but different strokes for different folks if you want one go for it, don't let a dude on a forum stop ya! I hope you do enjoy it. as much as I'd also like to own a brand new car some day, the styling of most modern offerings are a complete turn off for me (alongside the unnecessary drivetrain changes some cars have...) I can't say for sure how you would go about listing it here without a price, I think it would be best to consult the site moderators about that and see if it's allowed for you to gauge offers from different people without giving your own price. if you want pointers on pricing, you can check sold examples on bringatrailer or cars and bids - or even craigslist and autotrader ads of other lgts in comparable condition to yours, then price it accordingly here.

man, I wouldn't get rid of a 4th gen like that in exchange for a new wrx but I guess you can't ruin your marriage over a car what does the wife say about a used VA generation sti instead? I'd say that's a better tradeoff than getting a new VB wrx. as for the sale, I would say get the exhaust fixed and the scratches buffed out, then if you're looking to auction the car you can try cars and bids. its basically a bringatrailer clone but free to use for sellers. don't waste your time on ebay motors, lots of sketchy stories about it. you could also try your luck with selling the car in the classifieds section of this forum, but it wouldn't be an auction format. good luck

lol if that's "extremely badly rusted out" to you, then you REALLY wouldn't want to see what my 07 gt looks like. my 08 spec b has similar rust on the rear control arms as yours, and its considered a very clean car by east coast canadian standards. the rust on the diff does look bad on your car, but if it works, diff rust doesn't really matter as much as subframe rust - especially considering they're easier to replace than subframes. and KZJonny is right about the exhaust, not a big deal since you can get an aftermarket catback quite easily. the exterior pics of your car look absolutely great compared to my gt. you barely have any rust at all on your rear arches, and your clearcoat looks good save for the strange scratches that could prob be buffed out, and the slight paint fading on the bumpers. I'll send pics of the rust on my 07 gt, you'll be thankful about your car after seeing them the second pic is the rust hole I have on my rear passenger side wheel arch covered in jb weld (and road salt...) as it failed inspection due to that hole and I needed a quick and cheap fix at the time.

alright, so I got my gear oil changed to some fresh motul gear 300 today. the mechanic gave me no report on the clutch cylinder, so I assume all is well with that. some of the crunchiness seems to be resolved now (though the shifter has the same notchiness as before and had a bit of a crunch going into 3rd today, but I think that was just me being lazy with the clutch). what I find more surprising is that the power delivery now feels much smoother in lower gears, namely 1st and 2nd gear. the car used to feel a bit jolty in those gears, but it now feels much smoother at low speed. shifting into 2nd also feels smoother than before, since I usually had to force it in a bit and really had to make sure the revs had dropped fully to let the syncros catch up - otherwise the car would rock back and forth due to what I assume are the syncros trying to match drivetrain speed to engine speed. syncro engagement in 2nd is better now, though I don't want to say its "much improved" just yet. I'm overall happy with the gear oil change, but I was honestly expecting some of the notchiness to go away as well. I guess I'm just glad that there were no problems with the clutch system, though if I do end up going down to my subaru tuner this summer I imagine they'll give it a much more thorough checkover

welp, while I didn't put my springs on yet (some of you might have seen that I am trying to sell them due to newfound fear of potholes ) I did get my gtc01s and new tires on today, and I'm absolutely loving it. on a bit of an unrelated note, I never realized how much the near bald firestones and oversize wheels made the ride and handling so choppy. I did kind of have my doubts going with an aggressive tire like the potenza re71rs after reading the reviews for them, which usually said how these were an autocross/track specific 200tw tire and would be terrible as a daily tire on rough roads, but after driving them back from costco today I am LOVING them. the ride is so much smoother than I expected, even over our 3rd world roads, and the grip is simply nuts. everything is so smooth and precise now, I can't even believe it. the wheels look great too, I hated the poke and stretch the old wheel and tire combo had so much. I no longer feel any sort of contact/weirdness at full lock turns, and I feel much more confident while turning the wheel overall. I took a few pictures, but the more I look at them the more I'm starting to doubt the idea of selling my RS-R springs and putting them on anyway because the ride height looks even weirder with the slimmer wheels lmao. just gotta find a place to get them put on for cheap because for some reason my subaru tuner quoted me $660 to install them, which is just insane compared to all the other estimates I've read online. I was expecting something more around the $200-300 ballpark. I think I'll have to shop around for a good rate that won't break the bank. anyway, here are the current specs and pics: wheels: enkei racing gtc01 18x8 +48 tires: bridgestone potenza re71rs 235/40/18 (got a killer deal in this specific size at costco) stock jdm spec b rev. c suspension and absolutely no spacers (peep the evo parked next to me. that's the type of low I want, especially on the front)

yeah the more research I do the more it seems like it could be a clutch master or slave cylinder issue. doesn't seem like that bad of a fix, I'm just thankful nothing is wrong with the transmission. I did a bit of a longer trip today and drove 96km (60mi) to costco and back, and the car was still pulling fine through the gears. but once again it did almost stall today while trying to back out of the parking lot, and second gear clicked while shifting into it at a low speed. coming back into town I also ended up revving it to 3500rpm while trying to get off from a hill stop and it was quite strange, there was somehow no burning smell afterwards but the car also didn't lurch forward like crazy. I'm definitely getting it looked at during my gear and diff oil change one thing I should mention is that the car had a brake fluid leak caused by a loose line on the rear when I first bought it. I did get it fixed last fall with a full fresh dot4 fluid flush, but I'm not sure if this would have affected anything with the clutch system too. thanks for the input guys, I'll update when I get everything looked at and hopefully fixed

car was in storage for 4 months during the winter. and yeah, I do plan to change the oil for sure, but I just thought the sudden onset of crunchy shifts was a bit strange - though I drove the car this morning and it was better than yesterday somehow, but it was still a bit stiff going into 3rd sometimes. you might actually be right on the clutch related diagnosis since the clutch on this car has always been strange. it's some weird canadian brand stage 2 clutch that's half kevlar and half organic, and from what I could tell the last owner didn't really break it in properly, as it was an absolute PAIN to drive at first (clutch was extremely stiff and the bite point was at the absolute top end of the pedal travel, like at 1cm of travel). two weeks before I put the car in storage, I noticed the clutch behavior started to change and it became a bit less stiff and the bite point was actually more towards the middle and had a much wider range - like a normal clutch should. I figured this was the clutch finally breaking in, so I didn't think much of it. however, after getting the car out of storage, I've had some moments where the car nearly stalled with the clutch pedal fully pushed down, and this only happened while backing out of a parking spot while turning. I took my car to the local mechanic recently for a post-storage checkup, and they said everything was fine (this was before I noticed new crunchiness). I asked them about the near stalls I've had and they said it could be slightly clogged injectors since it sat for a long time. at this point I don't want to believe there's anything majorly wrong with the car since it does drive and pull thru the gears as good as I remember - save for the stiffer shifting in lower gears. I hope new gear oil does solve my problems, but I will take it to a reputable subaru tuner somewhat soon for a better diagnosis.

hey all, I recently got my spec b out of storage, and I've been having a great time with it. however, I'm starting to think its time for a gear and diff oil change as I'm starting to struggle to get the car in first gear (crunches a bit), and going from second to third also requires more force than before. so unless the syncros decided to slowly die while sitting in storage, I can't think of anything else than either needing new gear oil or a new transmission in case I really did mess up too many shifts on a high mileage transmission lol (I did learn how to drive stick on this car ). I have no idea when the oil was last changed (or if it was even changed at all), I'll have to double check the maintenance receipts I got from the last owner to see if I can find something about it. so, would I just be good to go with fresh oil or do I have a bigger problem? thanks

while I was looking into this swap, I found this video to be very helpful for wrapping my head around the easiest way to go about it. I hope it's helpful for you as well, tho you may have already seen it by now lol.

I haven't used any of the sites you mentioned, but I checked all of them and if I were to go with any of them, it would be wheelership or factory wheel replacement, they seem decent and trustworthy enough, though it may be worth contacting them beforehand to confirm their availability. you should keep in mind that these sites are selling replicas of the oem wheels, so they're not necessarily the exact same as the oems, tho they probably are pretty close, and are likely the best option for buying brand new oem style wheels. personally what I would do in your situation is to scour local craigslist/fb marketplace ads to see if there are any decent used sets for sale. you could also try ebay if you find a listing trustworthy enough. that way you're getting real oem wheels, but at the cost of the unknowns that come with buying used wheels. I would suggest to not buy any wheels that have been cracked or bent then repaired as their structure is likely compromised and not necessarily what you would want to replace your current wheels. however, if you find a decent set locally then you're probably going to save money compared to the other options. or you could do what my crazy ass did and order a used set from japan from a used parts site like croooober or auction agent like buyee or jauce. if you're going to order from japan I would strongly recommend to use whatever option is provided to remove tires off rims if they already have tires mounted, since shipping costs become insane with tires mounted on rims. I recently ordered a set of enkeis from croooober, and while I'm still waiting on them to arrive (which is going to take a while with ocean shipping and me being on the east coast), I trust them as they were responsive in their communications to me. with overseas used parts sites, always read descriptions and compare them to the posted pictures carefully. sometimes they overstate damage, sometimes they understate. it's hard to take any precautions without seeing the wheels in person, so this option may not be for you if you're not willing to take a risk. I'll finish this off by saying that you should always do your own research and come to your own conclusions. this is just my 2 cents on your situation, and like all things on the internet, take it with a grain of salt. happy shopping

just an update, I ended up ordering the rs-r f012d springs and a set of 18x8 +48 enkei gtc01 from the vendor for a total of $1631.86 CAD (which comes to $1218.94 USD currently) including shipping and paypal fees I plan to get azenis rt615k+ in 235/40/18 once they arrive, I know its a large size but they're priced well from a local vendor and would be helpful in pothole country thank you all once again, your guidance and pics were helpful in coming to a decision on what to get, and I think I've gotten what I wanted for a good value, even if the wheels are a bit scuffed lol. not worse than the bigass curb rash on my black ts9 on the front right corner tho... link to wheels I purchased for anyone interested: https://www.croooober.com/en/item/cparts/00000003/Rims/16356898/Wheel-Only-ENKEI-Racing-GTC01

these last posts were quite helpful, thanks guys I did have a set of decently priced 17x8 rpf1s on my wishlist but they sold, so I'll be holding off for the next few days to see what other wheel options come up. I wish buying wheels wasn't this big of a deal for me and that I could just order a brand new set of my liking from a local supplier, but unfortunately the cost of doing so in eastern canada is astronomical. the used wheel market here sucks too since the cost of new wheels from quality brands is crazy high, so all I have for used options are fast and rtx wheels at high prices. and like I said, it is quite literally much cheaper to order a used set from japan and have it shipped in, even if it is a little scuffed here and there, so I have to wait and see what they get in stock. thanks for the help once again folks, I'll update this thread when I finally order my wheels, and hopefully I'll have pics of the car on both the wheels and the springs in the summer

dammit! I was going to read that at work but then an urgent call must have came in, because I clearly didn't read it properly thanks for reminding me of it, although some statements in that post bring up more questions than answers to me, for example: -it's stated that 255/40/17 is a viable tire size for a 17x9 rim, but in this thread I was told that 255 was too wide for our cars and that even 245 would be pushing it. if I were to follow the faq, then I would get the pf05s I was looking at, but I was told that was a bad idea. who's in the right here? -in the faq it's also stated that 255/35/18 is a very good size for daily driving, and that 9.5" is a viable wheel width, but I know from personal experience that this isn't true. my wheels are too wide and stick out like crazy on stock suspension. even with the coils they were pushing it. not to mention the dreaded tierod contact on full lock. otherwise that's a really helpful thread and I feel like an idiot for not reading it fully before. thanks once again for telling me, though I'm glad I was able to hash out some finer details about my suspension here it also turns out that the japanese vendor I'm buying from contracts paypal exclusively for their foreign buyers, so the gtx01 set became a bit more expensive than I thought thanks to paypal's greedy exchange rate. now I'm looking at getting either: -the pf05s I initially mentioned, 17x9 +40 with 255/40 tires (according to the faq this should work well enough) -advan avs model 7 18x7.5 +50 or enkei gtc01 18x7.5 +48 with 225/40 tires (don't prefer a narrow size like this but they're good wheels and the lowest price options of all) -work emotion 11r-ft +50 with either 225/40 or 235/40 tires (according to the faq this should be nearly perfect) these pics are really good to see, thank you. I thought 225s would run a bit narrow on 8" since most combos like this I've seen had a bit of stretch on the tires, but yours look perfect. I gotta say I really do love the first setup with the 235s the most though. but these pics will definitely help me come to a conclusion now that some wheels I mentioned before are out of reach in terms of price/convenience.

oh man I feel like we're getting off topic with all the suspension talk - maybe I should've made the thread in the supension section lol. anyway, yes used shocks have a ton of unknowns but I have driven on these shocks and I can tell you there's nothing wrong with them. they're overall in much better shape than the kybs on my 07 gt (which are in extremely terrible shape) and even those are holding up fine. the jdm bilsteins are also smoother over our bumpy roads than the kybs, so go figure. overall I'm happy with them, and that's all that matters I would like to get swifts but unfortunately they don't come up often on the sites I check, and local availability is basically zero. I'm going with rs-r since I found a new in box set for $90 canadian, and according to rs-r's own website it should be a perfect fit for my car. I'll see if I need spacers when I have them on the car, but I don't think it will be an issue with these springs. interesting to hear that some of the parts could not be sold alongside that wagon. kinda takes away the appeal of it but contracts are contracts I guess. should've sold me the brakes at least

the bilsteins are in great shape overall. I specifically chose the best set the vendor had and he even did the courtesy of giving me better rear shocks than what were shown in the pics too. they ride great, even better than the kybs on my gt and I'm completely happy with them. I was surprised at how much better they were than the kybs on high speed turns on the freeway. will attach pics of one of my front shocks and the blitz coils that came off the car. you'll see why I got the rev c bilsteins :) and no, you're not going to change my mind about getting springs as opposed to coilovers. yes, kw coils are great and its cool that you get free rebuilds in the us (I'm in canada btw...) but for how much they go for here I might as well save up another extra grand for a shortblock savings fund. cool wagon btw, I'm pretty sure I've seen it on bringatrailer before. 19s look too big in my opinion but otherwise it's a great build, though if I remember correctly it was automatic :(

holy shit thank you. you perfectly understand my philosophy of wanting a fun daily that balances form and function without breaking the bank. I don't necessarily need something that's track ready lol. and I can live with the harshness on shit roads we have here too since I've driven on both a broken spring and a blown coilover on our bumpy roads before. I might consider 225/45 if it fits better, but I doubt 235 will be an issue since I did have 9.5" and 255 without any significant issues during regular driving (i.e. not full lock in a parking lot). I know my spec b must have had some fender modifications under previous ownership (likely fender rolling) as I actually did end up with the ts9s and the 255 firestones they have on my 07 gt before, and the gt became undrivable immediately, even with its stock kybs. I'll be putting my order in for the set of gtx01s and rs-r springs soon, even if it does make me a honda fanboy :P

there's no pleasing you is there... and no, I would never get teins. see you in 5 years when I can afford kw or ohlins :)