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every 5 PSI

A quick video of the pivot implementation with markers. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGb89DQCS5I]YouTube - pivot[/ame] I like the idea of programmable timeout, I will look into that. After driving around with the new version for the week, I'm thinking of scraping the invert oled option and just sticking with the timeout option. The invert option was envisioned to balance the oled ware however I find it really distracting when it inverts because it catches your attention when you don't really care. I do like the ambient temp, I probably will keep that hooked up to the intercooler. I have verified the accuracy to be within spec of the sending unit. So we are looking at +/- 2 degrees C. More than enough resolution to tell if your intercooler is running hot, the range on the sensor is -40c to 125c Its interesting how warm it gets when you standing at lights and whatnot. Also if your moving at highway speeds you get a pretty fast update on ambient temperature. I finally have realized how slow the standard outside ambient temperature responds and to be honest I'm not sure about their accuracy on that one, it seems it has an incredibly long average. I will give alarms a thought, I like the idea. jproy12, I see about 12.8 to 14 when the engine is running, depending on speed, or if I'm in traffic, and what accessories I have on i.e. heater defroster, to be honest it fluctuates a lot. When I was stuck in traffic in a snowstorm and the car was idling in traffic for a long time i noticed that with all the defrosters running it was been drug down to 11.5 and the idle became rough, so it is very much load and engine speed dependent.

Version 1.04 is will work with the old sending unit for AFR input. However with the addition of a oil pressure sensor and a ambient temp sensor an excitation voltage of 5V was needed to drive these sensors. So the new sending unit will incorporate an aux plug. A standard 2.5 mm 4 conductor plug will do the trick. On the plug 5V is available for sensors which require it. Here are some pics of the new sending unit with aux plug. The ambient temperature sensor is shown as well. Thats correct, you can only choose one aux input. So if users are already using AFR, they would not be able to use another at the same time. In the original design the aux input was an afterthought. Now I wish I had 5 of them, or had the hardware to mux them. But of course. When ever you hit boost or press a button the timer gets reset. Only if you are pulling vac for 3 mins and not touching the gauge it will power off the screens. The leds will continue to remain active. Then the second you hit boost the screens come on again. or you could press a button. I have also implemented the new "pivot" boost display with and without markers, user configurable. Markers are also availble on the standard display which I have called "full" in the menu options because this mode uses all availble leds for Vac and boost, gives you the most 'visual' resolution of boost and vac. I think I actually might favor the pivot mode. It was a good idea, thanks tangcla for the thoughts. I will post some pics/vid so you can see how it looks now. I will be driving around with the new version this week to see how it feels and will be looking for bugs. i also threw the aux temp sensor on my intercooler to see how hot it gets in city traffic.

I'm trying to get the matting connector from prosport, i'm awaiting pricing. If I get this from them then I can make an adapter, and sell the adapter for cheap and you guys can buy the sender and the wire harness direct from prosport. If not, I will sell the sender and harness directly, modified to work with the VBG1 sending unit. great name - pivot point. That's exactly what it is. unfortunately not. The prosport premium oil sender will be compatible. Version 1.04 will come with a new sending unit that will have an auxiliary plug.

I will see if I can setup a buy back program for upgrades.

If everything goes good - about two weeks.

oh I forgot...thanks for reminding me. A new option to set viewing preferences for the bar graph display. Option to display boost marker leds at every 5 psi Option to select location of Atmospheric zero point. Traditional - sweep right to left for vac, left to right for boost. New option - Corner of gauge (ATM point would be at the arrow, and anything to the left and down is vac...and to the right is boost.)

I'm almost done finishing up the newest software revision. Version 1.04 will provide additional functionality to the gauge including OIL pressure in selectable units of PSI or BAR. The sensor to be used is the prosport one http://prosportgauges.com/Premium-oil-pressure-sender-1.aspx The sensor coupled with the VBG1 has been tested to achieve greater than +/-5 Psi accuracy over the 0-150 span. With resolution displayed as 1PSI increments. Also new is an optional sensor input of an external temperature sensor with greater than 1 degree display resolution. This temperature probe has a temp range of -40c to 125C - that's 256F! So i guess you could put it on your inter-cooler or something. The new sensor inputs can be selected via the configurations menu. Only one external sensor can connector and/or connected. The new configurable input is called the auxiliary input. Auxiliary input options (only one can be selected) AFR PRESSURE (PSI) PRESSURE (BAR) TEMP F TEMP C Also new is an OLED burn-in reducer option. The user can select to enable the following options: Off - no screen saver options INVERT - Oled screens inverts every minute to even oled wear TIMEOUT - Oled screens shut off after 3 mins. BOTH - Both inversion and screen timeout. I also want to mention that we have had a few RMAs for OLED display issues/failure. If you are having problems with your VBG1 please contact me. I believe the issues were related to the oled connector assembly process. I'm working hard to make a great reliable custom boost gauge. Thanks to you all for the input and feedback. I hope to post some pics or videos of the new options soon.

This is a picture of the prosport premium oil sender connector. It comes with no documentation, I was wondering if any of you have this in their car and know what they are powering the sending unit with. I know this is powered directly from the prosport gauge but what I dont know is if it is 5V or 12V. I suspect 12V. But if any of you could put a meter on the red and the black wire terminals of the connector than I would know for sure. I will also try to get a hold of prosport.

Version 1.04 is not released yet. I am awaiting a oil pressure sensor from prosport to test the interface. I hope to release the new version by the end of the month.

New video of RHD showing some (simulated) functionality of the gauge. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylLrPdhrRok]YouTube - VBG1-RHD Vent boost gauge for Subaru Legacy[/ame]

Nice, I like that one, they sell the wiring harness too! Pretty cheap for what looks to be good quality. I purchased one to evaluate it with the VBG1. Agreed, actual resolution will probably be something close to that. I plan to implement oil pressure plotting like afr plotting. That way when you review the peak boost plot you can also see dynamic change in oil pressure.

Yeah - you were spot on. correct again. This will be fixed in Version 1.4 of the software.

Thanks thefultonhow but I cant find a datasheet on that one. Any of you guys using an oil sending unit now? What are you using? Hey metric guys. Do you want your Vac display to say "torr" or "mmHg"?

A few of you have mentioned oil sensors. I was wondering what you guys prefer to use. A while ago dschultz suggested a great idea to have a programmable analog input. Here is what was suggested... I am hoping to implement something like this on the next rev of the firmware. Also in the works for next version rev: -OLED Screen saver option - auto shuts down OLED when enabled and pulling vac for specified amount of time. -Fix metric display of Vac -Marker leds on Boost

The ribbon cable is the most likely culprit. Check orientation (black side up), and insertion distance. There is a good pic of it in the manual (page 4) that should help you confirm proper installation. http://www.gtboostgauge.com/VBG1%20-%20Manual%20Rev%201.0.pdf

Hmm 4.64 PSI would be way off. So what's the funky thing the gauge does when you alarm the key fob? Maybe something to do with power up? The min temp for the gauge is -40C and max is +85C

Direct sunlight is a difficult problem, I have noticed even when the stock displays such as the radio vacuum fluorescent displays are hit with direct sunlight even they are not easily readable, if at all. Since the VBG1 is designed to go in the drivers side vent, sunlight was definitely a factor in choosing design materials. I was concerned about going with a gloss finish because a glossy glare. The material used now is a lexan product from 3M with a velvet (matte like) finish. From the website: "10-mil Lexan - 10-mil Lexan® is a clear polycarbonate with a velvet finish on the top surface. It is dimensionally stable and resists tearing, abrasion, and heat. The velvet surface reduces glare and is scratch resistant. 10-mil Lexan® is recognized for it’s long life and durability." The overlay material is actually printed on the back side in a semi-transparent black. This allows the leds to shine through and then appear black when off. tangcla - your beta unit overlay for your gauge was printed on a different production run than the standard VBG1. It should be the same transparency black used in standard VBG1. I will double check that to make sure the overlay house didn't print yours darker, which would reduce readability. Also...did you make sure menu option 1 "max led brightness" is set to 10 (max)? I do plan on experimenting with new overlays. A few of you have mentioned you would love a completely flat finish to the gauge front, instead of the cutouts for the oled displays. I'm working to see if this is possible. My current thinking is that if the oleds are covered with the overlay, the overlaminate would have to be gloss finish. so what will be better? in the end...it may be a preference issue. http://www.squidoo.com/matte-vs-glossy-screens I have attached some pictures with sun-glare at it's worst, also a bright overcast day. I think the dominant factor of sunlight readability is the angle, but I would say the gauge is still 'sunlight readable'. There are quite a few VBG1 users out there now, comments?

LegacyDan - I think this has been resolved for you but I just wanted to clarify for anyone watching on the forum. The problem is most likely due to the fact that there are two fuse locations in a fuse tap like shown: One is for the original circuit (in your case - IG2, which when un-powered will cause the CEL to go off and other various fun lights warning you somthing is wrong) the other is for the tapped circuit. You will need to provide another fuse for the tapped circuit.

biodtl, as long as the gauge is hooked up correctly, which it sounds like it is...I'm pretty sure the 2-3 PSI over boost is real. The VBG1 has a very fast update rate (10+ Hz) , and the peak boost is latched at that rate...so really any fast transients of boost pressure will be captured at that rate and stored as peak. I guess the thing to remember is that the peak which is latched may be for as little as one sample which equates to about 1/10th of a second. If it is longer you should be able to see it in your logs or in the boost profile blot. Thanks for comparing it to your logs, they match and that is a good thing.

Misfire, Thanks for posting the pics. Yup - it's definitely upside down. Your replacement display unit is already in the mail, I will need the original back for failure analysis -Packaging is included and postage is pre-paid and this package can be mailed from any USPS drop-off location including mailboxes. Hopefully we can figure out what went wrong so this doesn't happen again, sorry for the troubles.

1.51 bar = 21.9006984 pounds per square inch - seems high for stock. How does the vac look. Should be pulling up to 22inhg at idle around 18ish warm I think you have the power hooked to the wrong circuit. From the manual: link "Power should be sourced to the VBG1 before engine start, for most model years IGNITION power provides proper power sequencing. Some model years (07+) have some ignition lines that power off briefly at engine start. The atmospheric sampling sequence depends on proper power sequencing. Please be sure that the proper power sequencing is provided to the gauge." "The VBG1 Power wire (RED) wire should be attached to the IG2 circuit. The easiest place to tap this circuit is at the fuse box using a fuse tap" Hope this helps.

12V switched is correct. The manual recommends to tap the IG2 circuit. "Power should be sourced to the VBG1 before engine start, for most model years IGNITION power provides proper power sequencing. Some model years (07+) have some ignition lines that power off briefly at engine start. The atmospheric sampling sequence depends on proper power sequencing. Please be sure that the proper power sequencing is provided to the gauge." "The sending unit requires a minimum of power and ground to be hooked up in order to operate the VBG1 as a boost/vac gauge. The VBG1 Power wire (RED) wire should be attached to the IG2 circuit. The easiest place to tap this circuit is at the fuse box using a fuse tap." ... so glad that RHD gauge fits!

I recently updated the manual, added some more information about where to tap power, where to hookup the vac/boost lines, additional info about OLED displays and stuff. You can find that here: Manual I also added more information about how the illumination line should be hooked up and it's functionality. Thanks for the questions JP. I hate to disappoint...I probably won't make something like this, but I appreciate the suggestion. I'm not sure what my next project will be...Maybe a 2010 VBG1...I dunno. I also like the idea of interfacing the CAN bus and grabbing info. Yeah I have to admit, I would of loved it to be a flat surface, instead of nearly flat surface. For those of you who haven't seen it in person, the OLED Screens are directly exposed because the graphic overlay is die cut around their perimeter. I tried a prototype overlay which covers the screen with a clear lexan polycarbonate - however I noticed that because the screens top layer is a anti-reflective polarizer, I was getting much better direct sunlight viewing without the clear cover. I might play around with new overlays in the future, however they are expensive to prototype with. However ideas always welcome. Sweet! So it fits?!? Alright! looking forward to the final hookup and pictures for the RHD version. Thanks for being a beta tester tangcla.

You should be tapping the Illumination net. or Fuse 16 as verified on 2005, and 2008 vacation pictures. 2006 should also be Fuse 16. Check your fuse panel. This net is a purple wire. When the parking lights are on, this line goes to 12V and the VBG1 will dim it's illumination. The VBG1 only has one dim level, and does not change variably with dash illumination settings. When the parking lights are on, the gauge dims. If the user drives with headlights on, it is recommended to use the ambient light dimming feature.