JmP6889928

I use SeeeeeYa's cocktail which comprises:

 

• Acetone
  
• Marvel Mystery Oil
  
• Chevron Techron
  

I buy the fluids in 1 gallon containers, then mix-up three (3), 12oz batches at a time.

 

How to mix and use:

• Pour 4oz of each fluid into three spare additive cans/bottles at a time -this makes three (3) 12oz bottles (36oz total). FWIW, I use Brianna Salad Dressing (superb dressing BTW) bottles because they're compact, and the tapered neck makes it easy to pour into the tank
  
• First use - Add one 12oz can to an empty tank, then fill-up,
  
• Second use - Add one 12oz can to a 1/2 empty tank, run it until empty
  
• Third use - Refill then add one 12oz can to the full tank.
  

Thereafter, I just add it to every other empty tank, then fill and drive. Amazing stuff. Definitely runs smoother and it cleans and lubricates your injectors, your valves, cylinders and any cat-converter(s). And it's much cheaper per oz than anything you get at the autoparts stores.

Give us some cost figures on gallons of Acetone and Chevron. A 12 ounce bottle of Chevron generally runs about $8-$10 so a gallon has to be pretty pricey.

Just be sure you're not logging or tuning while you have some in your tank. Regardless of brand, it lowers your overall octane rating, and thus your resistance to knock.

 

The B-12 is great as mentioned, and for lubrication I use Klotz Uplon upper cylinder lubricant. Mostly just because I have it laying around as I use it as a lube for my methanol injection system anyway.

I don't know where you came up with fuel additives with solvent properties lowering octane ratings. That's not correct information, as is evidenced by the following:

Berryman's B12 per MSDS:

Toluene 40-50%

Acetone 20-30%

Methanol 20-30%

Methyl Ethyl Ketone <5%

Isopropyl Alcohol <5%

2-Butoxyethanol <5%

Toluene can be used as an octane booster in gasoline fuels used in internal combustion engines. Toluene at 86% by volume fueled all the turbo Formula 1 teams in the 1980s, first pioneered by the Honda team. Some teams had been running this so-called "black art mix" in their engines with as high as 73 p.s.i. of peak boost and the engines were surviving long enough to finish most races. The remaining 14% of the fuel was a "filler" of n-heptane, to reduce the octane to meet Formula 1 fuel restrictions. Toluene at 100% can be used as a fuel for both two-stroke and four-stroke engines; however, due to the density of the fuel and other factors, the fuel does not vaporize easily unless preheated to 70 degrees celsius (Honda accomplished this in their Formula 1 cars by routing the fuel lines through the muffler system to heat the fuel). Toluene also poses similar problems as alcohol fuels, as it eats through standard rubber fuel lines and has no lubricating properties as standard gasoline does, which can break down fuel pumps and cause upper cylinder bore wear.

Granted, most additives don't contain the same solvents that the B-12 does, but to make a general statement that fuel additives lower octane ratings is incorrect.

I Lost two engines while using this product. May be coindicent....amy not...but I think I'm starting to see a trend. Gonna Stay far away. I know a lot of mechanics recommend Techron, and Redline is supposed to be good, but all I've used on this GT is Gummout, not regularly though.

A friend of mine has a Ferrari F355 and Ferrari lists Marvel Mystery Oil in their owners manual to add 1 cup to every other tankful as fuel pump lubricant. He was so shocked when he read it he showed it to me. I've not heard much bad about Marvel-I used to rep this product too and it was always well received, but if you've had bad luck with it, then I'm going to listen to you and not use it.

Chris-The Berryman is a LOT stronger than any of the Chevron. I believe that you're referring to the black bottle Chevron? As I said, Chevron is far better than any of the others, but the Berryman beats any of the Chevron products easily in testing.

Berryman B-12 Chem Tool available at AutoZone for about $4. I used to rep 17 different kinds of fuel additives (Pyroil, Pennzoil, STP, 3M, Gumout, ProGard, Gold Eagle, Marvel Mystery Oil, and a few more) including Chevron with Techron and the Berryman is far above any of the fuel system cleaners on the market today. Most of the cleaners on the market today are simply denatured Kerosene or #1 Fuel Oil (smell them if you want to see for yourself) and they do nothing to actually clean. They do lubricate but that's not exactly what you want as a first defense. If you use the Berryman and THEN put one of the others in as a follow up, then you're clean and lubricated.

Styrene is the by product of gasoline (which you see as varnish on carburetors and fuel injectors) and this is what fouls and makes things sticky. The Berryman products have the most solvent in their formulation that dissolves the varnish instantly when it touches it. Buy a can of this and find an old carburetor with a lot of varnish or even put a couple of tablespoons in your lawnmower or small engine and you'll immediately hear it run smoother and if you disassemble the carburetor, you'll see it clean and shiny inside.

I don't sell any of these anymore but I've been using the Berryman for quite a while in all of my vehicles and you'll notice better mileage, smoother acceleration, starts better, and runs quieter. I used to get as much of any of them I wanted for free for samples and I've tried just about every one of them.

By the way, the Techron contains about 20% of the same chemicals as the Berryman and it's absolutely better than the rest of them except for the Berryman.

Doesn't... doesn't the whole world want a fast car?

Well...maybe not the WHOLE world......

Extra hand not included. Get your own.

BASTARD ! !

You just wait. You're gonna need me for something someday and I'm going to say "remember when you told me to get my OWN hand?"

Uh huh........Juuuusssssttttt wait........

They should have just made the intercooler out of straight metal. What is this plastic bullshit?

The reason they used plastic tanks for the intercooler is because the intercooler is nothing but a heater core with a different type of tank on it to fit this particular application.

The core itself is something that is readily available as a premade unit and they simply bought a part off the shelf, had the tanks made, and had them assembled.

Cheaper for Subaru while in bone stock application, most likely is "good enough" to last a while. I'm sure there are thousands of them out there on the various vehicles that these fit on that have no issues but then again, they most likely have done nothing except drive them....and not like US lunatics where we (LGT, NASIOC, etc.) all want 4859 p.s.i of boost pressure and 65289741 w.h.p...LOL

Hey BarManBean,

I just watched your zip tie video using the band clamp tool and wondered how exactly you ended up with three hands? Does the extra hand come with the tool or is that an additional part you have to purchase separately? Where is a good place to buy that extra hand?

Just wondering because I sure could use one of those in my toolbox.....LOL

I just came across this. Great write up. You say go kart fuel line works perfectly, but I was wondering if you knew what size that is? I found some clear line on a siphon pump from autozone. I was hoping that would work but I haven't tried it yet.

Thanks much for the kind words. 1/4" is the size you want. You can also get 1/4" vinyl tubing at Lowe's, Menards, etc. and that works well too and is generally cheaper.

bukaru seems to be sick.. missing on cylinder number 4 at idle and slight throttle at full throttle its perfect. i swapped the injectors and spark plugs for that cylinder and no improvement.

and there is no blowby so i can only think its the intake valve as i see some fluttering when the missfire happens on the boost gauge.

 

i was planning on pulling the heads to install thinner head gaskets i want to tighten up the quench band anyways.

You COULD try an old remedy for a possible stuck or bad intake valve. Take a spray bottle and fill it with water and mist it down the throttle body and see if it helps. A lot of times a speck of carbon can weld it's way onto the valve surface or the seat and the water will help to burn it off. Usually if this is the issue, you can mist about 1/2 a cup of water through and it will burn off the carbon. If you get through that much water and it doesn't help, then you have another issue.

As was stated before, then begin looking at the mechanical portion-bent pushrod, valve keeper cracked or broken, broken spring. You can see these easily enough if you disconnect the coil, remove the rocker cover, and turn it over with the starter.

Good luck with it.

I have a friend that just did an STi conversion to his 06 LGT and he has the same problem. He installed everything (we finally figured out all of the vacuum lines and the wiring harness) but he has no spark either.

Subscribed to this thread to find out so I can forward to him as well. If it's something simple, that would be great. If not, man......that sucks...LOL.

I have always dug on this color. I had a 1985 Mazda 626LX Sport Coupe that was almost the identical color and it looked so good in the sunlight after wax. I rarely see one of these in person so people who own these, keep them in good shape as they may become a collectible rarity in the near future.

LegaLude-Really like the gold wheels on the bronze. Nice contrast but also a nice match too.

Part in question was actually thoroughly inspected and it is all cosmetic - we took it into consideration of things that should be done but it was quickly determined the part is in fact sound. Just looks worse than it is by a long shot and we poked and scraped at it to be sure. It's actually not difficult to change later since we do have the lift - it would only have been a cosmetic fix.

Just a pain in the ass to have to deal with coolant on the bottom of the engine to change it. Might to pay to at least spray it with some Extend and then paint it to make sure it lasts.

Just a small suggestion but maybe replace the front oil cooler line while the engine is out and you're doing everything else?

Outstanding build.

"Remove the wheels and break loose each of the bleeder screws and then check them to make sure that they are open and not rusted shut. If they are, use a piece of wire or drill bit to open the center and side holes and then reinsert back into your calipers or wheel cylinders."

 

Stupid question here, I assume you are cracking each bleeder screw to ensure they will in fact open, then closing them and doing one corner at a time with the drain process?

 

Thanks.

Not stupid at all. Answer to your question. Yes. Open each one to make sure that the fluid comes out of them. If you have the rubber cap on them, chances are very good that you'll be fine but if not, then they can clog with rust and crap so that's when you would have to open them up.

Once you know they will all pass fluid, then go from corner to corner although I've opened all 4 of them before if I had new long hard lines to fill because it's a little faster.

The pad coverage is a bit less indeed but it won't affect performance (negatively) . It was a minor concern of mine when I put them on. The change in brake feel and response makes it way worth it. I had a pretty intense track day before I sold my ride and they held up great,

I'm running HP+ pads and Hard Brakes Ti shims with the stock LGT calipers and Centric Cryo rotors all the way around and it stops pretty well on the track-decent modulation and I haven't had much fade (since I switched to Wilwood EXP600 fluid I'm sure that helped too) but thanks for the response. If you've run them on the track and they worked well, that's where I would be most interested in their effectiveness. Was there noticeable wear on the rotor from your track day-a ridge or anything that you could see or feel?

My concern with this upgrade after seeing the photos-I haven't purchased anything as of yet myself so I haven't actually done any test fitting-is that the pad coverage on the actual rotor braking surface seems to be substantially less than the stock LGT calipers/pads. It looks like it (WW caliper and pads) only covers about the outer 2/3 of the rotor's friction surface. Is it me not seeing correctly or is that actually how they fit onto the stock rotors?

Thanks.

How would you do this with brembo's? I only have them on the front but I guess You'd do the inside first then the outside blender?

I've done Wilwood calipers and I opened the outside bleeder screw first for about 5 minutes as it's the furthest away and allows fluid to come all the way into, through, and out of the caliper.

Undertray is important to the cooling of the car. It also helps aerodynamics to seal up the underside of the engine compartment.

By the way, I don't recall if you said, but how much were the vents?

I posted this method on a couple of other forums and several people asked about the reasons to not use DOT5 Silicone brake fluid with ABS systems. I answered one of them and thought I would copy and paste it in here for everyone that may have the same questions.

Silicone brake fluid is much thicker which means much slower to move through the system when you push the pedal down, and has a compressibility factor which will make an ABS controller think that you are trying to pump the pedal. This causes the controller to pulse erratically and COULD cause a crash. Silicone brake fluid also gives a spongier feeling pedal (again, due to the compressibility) and as it heats up, important chemicals can evaporate off, leaving the pedal even more spongy and again, COULD cause a crash.

Poly glycol based fluids (DOT3, DOT4, DOT5.1) are a thinner fluid that provides a solid compression without any springiness because of the composition of the fluid. The ABS system relies on wheel speeds and pedal pressure and adjusts the pulsation to the wheels that need it. These fluids allow that to happen in milliseconds as the pressure is consistent and solid.

Traction control also relies on the ABS system and allows the ABS system to systematically apply brakes to the spinning wheel to equalize the speeds so that both wheels pull the same. Silicone fluid will cause this to be erratic which can actually cause damage to a differential because of the wheel speeds changing all over the place.

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/brakefluid.html A good article about the differences of brake fluids

http://collision.alldata.com/online2...ot_3_or_41.htm Read the final line in this post.

I hope this helps. Please feel free to PM me.

Thanks,

John

That looks like a pretty decent fit. Are you going to run hose to the rotor shield or leave it open to force the air directly at the shield? I would LOVE to see it completed. I redid my rotor shields and custom fabricated/installed 2 ducts on each side-1 on top of and 1 below the tie rod end. I'll grab a photo of them to show you. The way I did it was cut out the two louvers that are above and below the tie rod that you can see in your photo, and opened them way up and then built a scoop that will direct air down to the center of the rotor and on the bearing. I haven't worked on the rest as of yet, but I think your vents look like a good beginning.

If you can find the blanks for the front, please post the website where you found them. I'm very interested in using them for my vents as well and would love to have them to make it look nicer.

Thanks much for the photo.

The "pump it" method has been taught for many years, even in service manuals. I never was a fan of it, even when I learned it back in 1974, and that was before ABS systems where even the smallest speck of dirt could foul an ABS controller. The method you were taught (to never let the pedal hit the floor) is actually the correct one but unfortunately, it's difficult to modulate for many people and even if you do control it closely, the results are exactly what you went through. The master cylinder still pushes through territory it hasn't been through before, and can dislodge corrosion and/or rust, which can ruin the seals and cups.

As I stated, none of the methods are "wrong", depending on who you ask, but I'm not a fan of pressure bleeders and I even own one, including a vacuum bleeder that hooks to an air compressor and generates vacuum to pull fluid through. The problem with pressure bleeders and vacuum bleeders is that they can dislodge any speck that happens to be stuck to the inside of a brake line and force it into the ABS controller or proportioning valve, which can cause a light, which EVERYONE hates. It only takes a spec of .005 micron to foul many of the ABS controllers out today.

I know people that use pressure bleeders, swear by them, and would never change. My personal feeling is that they were developed to make it faster and also make it a one man operation which is a good thing. They were also first developed way before the complexities of today's systems. By using only the weight of the fluid and gravity, there is almost no chance of knocking anything loose or pulling it out of the bottom of the reservoir and forcing it down into the lines.

Brake fluid does not recirculate within the system so the fluid itself doesn't move much other than the floor pedal is pushed to cause the pressure which activates the pistons in the calipers producing force which induces the friction between the pads and rotors and slows the vehicle. (I know, long sentence, but it was done on purpose...LOL).

At least with your Motive bleeder, you use it, clean it, and then put fresh brake fluid in it every time you use it. Most pressure bleeders in service facilities, including dealerships, have NEVER been cleaned and someone pours a gallon of fluid in them and then it may take 6 months to use enough of it to need refilling, which is exactly what happens and the old fluid isn't removed.