JmP6889928

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4679768&postcount=48

Subaru P/S o-ring part number is 34439FG000.

WELCOME TO THIS THREAD OF INFORMATION. I'M TRYING TO PUT TOGETHER THE MOST SOUGHT AFTER INFORMATION ON A DAILY BASIS THAT CAN HELP MAKE EVERYONE'S LIVES EASIER. IF YOU HAVE INFORMATION LIKE THIS FOR AN EXISTING POST INCLUDING AN ADDITIONAL WEBSITE OR PART NUMBERS OR PARTICULAR CONTACT NAMES FOR ANY PART OR SOURCE LISTED, PLEASE PM TO ME AND I'LL EDIT THE EXISTING POST TO INCLUDE. IF YOU MAKE YOUR OWN CONTRIBUTION POST, PLEASE PUT A TITLE ON IT SO IT'S EASIER TO SEARCH. THE MORE INFORMATION HERE, THE BETTER WE WILL ALL BE, ESPECIALLY WHEN A NEW MEMBER NEEDS TO FIND SOMETHING AND HE/SHE CAN COME HERE AND FIND IT QUICKLY AND EASILY.

REMEMBER TO PATRONIZE THE VENDORS THAT SUPPORT OUR COMMUNITY. SOME OF THEM GIVE EXCELLENT INFORMATION AND ADVICE AND DO IT ON THEIR OWN TIME AND FOR FREE. THEY ARE HERE BECAUSE THEY LOVE OUR CARS AND THE COMMUNITY BUT THEY ARE ALSO TRYING LIKE EVERYONE ELSE TO MAKE A LIVING. BEFORE CHECKING AMAZON OR EBAY, OR SOME DISCOUNT SITE YOU'VE NEVER HEARD OF, CHECK THE VENDORS THAT ARE LISTED ON THIS STICKY AND ALSO IN THE VENDOR'S FORUM. THESE ARE THE VENDORS THAT SUPPORT LGT.COM AND THEY NEED YOUR SUPPORT. IF THEY ARE $5 MORE, SO WHAT? SEE HOW MANY POSTS THEY ALL HAVE AND READ SOME OF THE INFORMATION AND REALIZE THAT THEY ARE THE BEST AND MOST EXPERIENCED COMMODITY WE HAVE HERE. I HAVE PUT LINKS IN TO THEM AS OFTEN AS POSSIBLE WHEN I PERSONALLY KNOW THEY HAVE A PARTICULAR PART, BUT IF YOU SEE ONE I MAY HAVE MISSED, PLEASE PM ME AND I'LL EDIT THE INFORMATION IN.

THANKS EVERYONE AND ENJOY!!!

UPDATE: BOXKITA HAS PUT ALL OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS THREAD IN A EASY TO SEARCH FORMAT AT THIS LINK AND POST #135-GIVE IT A TRY.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p9.html

I just read about the Stromung install and Gex posted the following:

"This is for a 3" downpipe to 2.5" exhaust (stock diameter). I'm sure you could just flip it the other way though."

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/3-inch...adaptor-1.html

How about a thread that every time someone asks for a particular part and someone has a link to that exact part, we post the link and title the post as to what the part is and then sticky it? I bookmark every link I come across like the one above in a file called "Subaru Stuff" on my computer but a sticky with all of these super helpful links would be something that COULD keep some of the mundane questions down to a minimum.

Just an idea.

Thoughts?

Adding index here:

First stab at an index (pages 3 & 4 on big boy settings):

General

2.5 N/A Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

2005-2006 Fuel Pressure Regulator

Add bluetooth to your factory radio

BarManBean's list of "Reliability Modifications"

BMB OE TMIC Bulletproof Kit

Brembo and Stoptech components

Check your VIN to see if your car was previously damaged

Crank Pulley part numbers & weights

Custom Side Feed Fuel rails for larger injectors

DBA Rotor Numbers

Gauges sources

Half moon head seals

How to Use 2006+ Subaru Internal Trouble Code Reader

Legacy gt sedan upper plastic coolant reservoir w/cap good used oem

LGT OE Power Steering Oil Cooler P/N

Link to Vacation Pics

Maintenance thread and also great end links

Metric fasteners/plastic clips too

OE SpecB replacement carpet P/N

OE Subaru turbo oil drain pipe gasket P/N

Oil analysis sources

Part Numbers with Names

Radiator

Re-centering Waste Gate Flap Valve

Replacement plug ends for cylinder coil packs

Replacement undertray oil filter access cover

Sources for used engines

STRONG Allen Socket for Cam Bolts

Subaru Factory Gear Ratios for Reference

Subaru OE complete engine gasket set

Subaru Valve Spring Compressor tools

Supercharger option for 2.5i

Timing Gear

Tons of good information on common issues here

Top Feed Fuel Injector Harness plugs

Tuning sources

Very nice front lip/chin spoilers for CHEAP $$$

Water Pump

Wheel adapters 5x100 to 5x114.3

Wireless OBDII Gateway Link

Turbo Powertrains

Re-centering Waste Gate Flap Valve

Tuning

Wireless OBDII Gateway Link

Tuning sources

NA Powertrains

2.5 N/A Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

Intake and Exhaust

Timing Gear

Top Feed Fuel Injector Harness plugs

Replacement plug ends for cylinder coil packs

Transmissions

Suspension / Brakes

DBA Rotor Numbers

Brembo and Stoptech components

LGT OE Power Steering Oil Cooler P/N

Wheels / Tires

Wheel adapters 5x100 to 5x114.3

Cooling/Heating

Radiator

Legacy gt sedan upper plastic coolant reservoir w/cap good used oem

Water Pump

Interior / Audio

Add bluetooth to your factory radio

Gauges sources

OE SpecB replacement carpet P/N

Exterior / Asthetic

Very nice front lip/chin spoilers for CHEAP $$$

Common Issues/Reliability Mods

Tons of good information on common issues here

BarManBean's list of "Reliability Modifications"

Maintenance thread and also great end links

OE SpecB replacement carpet P/N

Tools / Misc parts

STRONG Allen Socket for Cam Bolts

Subaru Valve Spring Compressor tools

Metric fasteners/plastic clips too

Part Numbers with Names

Link to Vacation Pics

Did some testing last night, check the video to see one holding 105+ PSI.

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/6z4BrG1.jpg

Wow...you're making teething rings now? Very cool.

Superlube grease would be excellent on that particular application.

I did a comparison of Superlube versus Phil Wood on my Chris King front MTB Hub. Most automotive guys don't know about Phil Wood Waterproof Grease but for years it was THE standard grease for bicycle hubs, bottom brackets, and steering forktube bearings (would have said headset but a lot of people wouldn't know what that is).

I popped a seal on each side sealed hub bearing and cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner and packed front hub bearings with Phil Wood. Popped the seal back in, and then fixed the wheel in a wheel jig. Had a Dremel tool with a rubber drive wheel on it fixed to a sliding vise so I could screw it into the wheel and make it spin. Brought it against the wheel (counted the number of turns so I could match the pressure of the rubber against the wheel for second test) and spun it until it stopped accelerating and leveled out. Immediately backed the Dremel tool away from the wheel and I measured the time it took for the wheel to stop spinning.

I did exactly the same thing and packed it with Superlube. Back in the jig, back to the Dremel tool. Spun it exactly the same way and it went almost 2 minutes LONGER before it completely stopped moving. And THIS was without any weight being on the bearings to help the grease and teflon penetrate the bearing surfaces. My suspicion is that they would be even BETTER after having been ridden but I've been too lazy to test it again...LOL...

I did leave the Superlube in the front and cleaned and packed the rear with Superlube before I was finished, and I'm sure it rolls better although I most likely can't feel it much as I only ride occasionally now.

Threw away my Phil Wood after that test.

Excellent write up. The only thing is that you NEVER mentioned the chopstick so here I was, all set to put grease inside of my housing, and I had to go buy some damn Chinese food to get some stinking chopsticks.

Great job....forgetting about a vital tool....

"What happens if you're scared half to death......twice?"

'On the other hand......you have different fingers."

Just a couple of tidbits from the eminent sage Larry the Cable Guy

Well after a few cold day's, I'm thinking the wagon starts about the same as it did before I spent the $4.78. Not really sure it's worth it...LOL

 

For that amount of money, I'm sure it may have helped something, I'm also sure it didn't hurt anything.

Helps my Dodge minivans every time I put it in........

Are you guys using B-12 Chemtool Total Fuel System Clean-up or B-12 Chemtool Fuel Treatment

 

According to the MSDS, the Clean-Up version adds Polymeric Amine (PEA), while decreasing the amount of Acetone and Methanol, compared to the regular Fuel Treatment. The regular Fuel Treatment is the MSDS data that JmP6889928 posted in post #26, so I'm assuming that's the stuff. However, isn't PEA part of what makes Techron special?

B12 Chemtool Fuel Treatment. The Total Fuel System is good but it's much more expensive due to the PEA. I've run both over the years (When I was repping Berryman, I used to get it for free so I could use as much as I wanted) but more immediate results always seemed to come from the red/white/blue can. Usually the TFS is about double the cost and not worth the extra money in my opinion.

When you loosen the band, you're technically rotating the turbine housing, whichever way you look at it, has the same effect in the end

Yeah. The IHI's are pinned at the exhaust housing so that alignment is pretty much set in stone unless you remove their tiny roll pin, which is easily done. The IHI's are also the ones that are sealed with silicone, so it would be extremely difficult to actually turn the compressor housing and if you could, that would definitely tell you that your seal wasn't much good to begin with...LOL.

I've taken apart IHI's and have found just enough silicone there to see a discoloration but not enough to actually seal anything. I've repaired a couple of boost leaks right at this spot because being right in the firing line of the compressor wheel, it can push right past the crappy seal (or lack thereof) and cause a boost leak you'll tear your hair out trying to find.

Good photos though because I've found many turbos that were not in alignment causing the installers a TON of headaches trying to get the TMIC bolted on and they are a pain in the ass enough even if they are in correct alignment.

Bryan,

We indicated the stock (VF40) turbo, from the turbine inlet to the compressor exhaust, and found the planes to be parallel within 1 thousands of an inch.

Did the same w/ the 16g, not even close, so we setup some blocks, loosened the clamp and re-clocked the compressor housing (i guess technically it's clocking the turbine housing, but either way).

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo1_zpsee2a3e9c.jpg

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo2_zps28fd48ec.jpg

Fixed:

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo3_zps15abdd0e.jpg

 

So.. those looking for 'fix' the clocking issue, get a VERY FLAT surface (Table saw top, granite countertop, something like that), and use a square (or precision ground blocks ) to re-align the housing. The bolt on the clamp is 13mm. Not sure what the toque spec is, but just eyeballed the amount of thread sticking out the top.

Edit: Torque is ~10ft-lbs (at least that's what my wrench says to get the right 'thread showing'

You turned exhaust housing or compressor housing? Exhaust housing is pinned on IHI VF series turbos to ensure that it's aligned correctly. The compressor housing, while it looks like it's only clamped on with bolts/washers, it's actually sealed with high temperature silicone from the compressor backing plate to the compressor housing. If you turned this even slightly, you most likely tore the silicone seal and probably created what will turn out to be a boost leak right where the backing plate and compressor housing meet.

I completely agree that the planes on the both of the flanges need to be exactly parallel and if they aren't it becomes quite a pain to try to hook up the TMIC and both UP and DP without everything leaking. If I were you, I would be wary of the possible boost leak and look for it after you install the turbo or you could just remove the compressor housing, clean off all of the silicone, and then re-seal it with it in the correct position. This will eliminate the worry of possible boost leak.

I've jumped on the B-12 bandwagon and picked up a can as well as a small bottle of the B-12 for humans for good measure. Just waiting for the tank to empty before I add it. Directions say to use the entire can for tanks 15 gallons or more but I see a number of people adding only half a can. Comments?

If I have a car that seems to be boggy or doesn't start as well as I want it to, I put a whole can in 1/2 tank of fuel and then drive it down to 1/4 and refill it completely with good (Shell, Mobil, Exxon) fuel and drive it again to 1/4 and fill again. Purchase the product in the METAL can, not the plastic bottle. Berryman had to put it in metal with the original B12 as it would eventually soften the plastic bottle and cause the bottle to finally begin to leak. I was repping them when they figured this out (had a lot of warranty issues with the plastic bottles beginning to leak and had to send it back to Berryman) and began using the metal cans. The cans are also good to keep around as they're nicely made and the cap seals very well.

The concentration of the first application generally cleans up most issues if they are related to varnished/sticking fuel injectors and also helps the fuel pump as well.

Do NOT pour this into 1/2 tank and let the car sit for a week or so. The Berryman is very strong and it can actually soften vent hoses and cause them to collapse when the vent vacuum is applied from normal operation of the vehicle. If you aren't going to drive it through, then wait and use it when you go on a longer trip. If you drive 30+ miles a day, and do it every day, then go ahead and use it as I state above. You should definitely see a difference if your issue is fuel injector related.

I've read the post twice, I'm obviously missing something? I wasn't talking about B-12, I was talking about Marvel Mystery Oil. Marvel says it will not foul plugs, on the contrary they claim it will prolong plug life. Marvel is a UCL, it is an oily substance. So the question is, will it burn without leaving residue.

As to B-12, I do note the last sentence warning about the effects of Toluene.

My apologies if we misunderstood each other. As for the MMO, as I had said earlier, Ferrari recommends it at regular intervals in their fuel systems as it "lubricates the fuel pump and related components". I've used it in the past in a few vehicles including my lawnmower but I can't really say for sure that it either hurt or helped. As for the plugs being fouled, MMO is a very light aromatic oil base so I'm sure it's burned through as quickly as the fuel. What it WILL do is leave a slight oily base behind that will help to lubricate the exhaust valve guide slightly through the passage.

I do know that when I repped MMO, we sold a LOT of it. The Mystery about Marvel Mystery Oil is:

You can put it in the oil, you can put it in the gas-the mystery-how does it know?

I'm not sure you caught where I was going with my post. Is there any evidence the car wouldn't have seen that mileage without the fuel additives?

I understood what you were saying. My post means that I've never had a fuel injector issue in almost a million combined miles and have been using the Berryman in all of them. Chryslers are known for FI issues and I've not had them with these. Fords, not so much but it does run better when we use it.

Sure, the cars would have gone that far because I take care of them and do maintenance rather than wait for failures, but the fuel systems have never had any issues and I attribute it to regular usage of the Berryman.

Give it a try. It costs $4 and if it doesn't help your car, then it's only $4 but I'm pretty sure it will. Sometimes, people are absolutely amazed at how much difference just one can of B12 makes.

3rd tank with Marvel Mystery Oil plus two back to back treatments with Techron and nothing majorly different. I think I feel a tiny difference in smoothness that could be attributed to placebo. I will continue since I still have MMO and will report back. I think the Techron did make a difference, I notice about 1mpg increase but at the same time the temps have gotten cooler too and the car just runs better at this time.

Regarding cocktails, we need to be careful with applying the "I've done it since the car was new on several of my cars and never had an issue" logic because I could also say I bought tiger repellent, have been placing it around my house and look! No tigers! What I mean to say is we need to be careful with logical fallacies; with proper maintenance vehicles, on average, rarely develop fueling issues. I've owned several cars over 100K, one of them hit 187K and upon compression test it came back within factory specs, never burned oil, I've never paid attention to what gas I put in it, etc etc.

 

Regarding injectors cleaners, I'm going by what the BITOG geeks are saying, and that is that Chevron Techron concentrate is the most effective.

I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan AWD with just over 305K on it and the engine has never been apart and it will get around 23.5-24.0 mpg on the highway and I've been running the Berryman through it since I bought it in 2005 with 87K on it and it never has had a single issue with fuel injectors and it's still (knock on my wooden head) even on the original fuel pump. I've used this stuff in all of my vehicles and the only vehicle I own with less than 100K is my LGT. My wife's 2002 Exploder with just over 150K will get about 1 mpg better for 7-8 tankfuls when I put a bottle in and my other Chrysler T&C AWD has 167K on it and it runs about 23 mpg on the highway. I've been using it in this vehicle since I bought it at 61K.

Hell, I run it in my 97 OB Wagon with 2.5 DOHC that has 255K on it and it has never had a single fuel injector issue either. I'm second owner (bought it from my brother at 105K) and he ran Berryman in it from about 50K.

You can try all of them. I've tested all of them. Then try the Berryman and you'll actually feel and hear the difference in how it runs.

Question from a noob having only ever owned two practical Hondas and never having used any treatment of any kind: What's the story with these additives? They help clean and lubricate the engine components? How necessary is this and what's the difference between using an additive and never using one? Just got myself into an '05 Legacy GT but still have my Honda Element. Will I notice any difference using an additive in the Honda (very simple practical car) or is it more of a performance thing like what I've gotten myself into with the turbo Subie?

You'll notice it in any vehicle that has some miles on it. The fuel injectors become varnished because of the styrene in gasoline, which is a by-product of the gasoline and additives you purchase at the station. The Berryman Chemtool B12 will dissolve those varnishes on contact and you'll realize a smoother running engine because the fuel injectors and fuel pump will operate much smoother and easier.

Just don't become addicted to it by using it too much. About every 8-10 tanks will keep everything nice and clean and you'll feel the difference in acceleration and also see it in gas mileage too.

After reading your posts on B-12, I decide to give it a try a couple of days ago. I have to say after driving 50 + miles, I did notice the motor is running a lot smoother and my cold start hesitations are gone. Only used half the bottle this time and next fill up I'll put in the remaining amount. Last month I used a bottle of STP and didn't notice any difference, but with B-12 there was a noticable difference.

 

+1 on Berryman B-12

Follow your gas mileage closely and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised on this as well.