JmP6889928

Life didn't pass me by; it sat on my head. Al Bundy

Twenty empty missile tubes, a mushroom cloud, and it's Miller Time. Anonymous U.S. Naval Commander

I'm so fast that last night I turned off the light switch in my bedroom and was in bed before the room was dark. Muhammad Ali

We hang the petty thieves and appoint the great ones to office. Aesop

Suppose you were a member of Congress......and suppose you were an idiot......but I repeat myself. Mark Twain

Wow...you're making teething rings now? Very cool.

Superlube grease would be excellent on that particular application. I did a comparison of Superlube versus Phil Wood on my Chris King front MTB Hub. Most automotive guys don't know about Phil Wood Waterproof Grease but for years it was THE standard grease for bicycle hubs, bottom brackets, and steering forktube bearings (would have said headset but a lot of people wouldn't know what that is). I popped a seal on each side sealed hub bearing and cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner and packed front hub bearings with Phil Wood. Popped the seal back in, and then fixed the wheel in a wheel jig. Had a Dremel tool with a rubber drive wheel on it fixed to a sliding vise so I could screw it into the wheel and make it spin. Brought it against the wheel (counted the number of turns so I could match the pressure of the rubber against the wheel for second test) and spun it until it stopped accelerating and leveled out. Immediately backed the Dremel tool away from the wheel and I measured the time it took for the wheel to stop spinning. I did exactly the same thing and packed it with Superlube. Back in the jig, back to the Dremel tool. Spun it exactly the same way and it went almost 2 minutes LONGER before it completely stopped moving. And THIS was without any weight being on the bearings to help the grease and teflon penetrate the bearing surfaces. My suspicion is that they would be even BETTER after having been ridden but I've been too lazy to test it again...LOL... I did leave the Superlube in the front and cleaned and packed the rear with Superlube before I was finished, and I'm sure it rolls better although I most likely can't feel it much as I only ride occasionally now. Threw away my Phil Wood after that test.

MODS....this should be a sticky. MANY people have this same issue and with it at the top of the forum, it would be easily accessible and something that would be greatly appreciated by all.

Excellent write up. The only thing is that you NEVER mentioned the chopstick so here I was, all set to put grease inside of my housing, and I had to go buy some damn Chinese food to get some stinking chopsticks. Great job....forgetting about a vital tool....

"What happens if you're scared half to death......twice?" 'On the other hand......you have different fingers." Just a couple of tidbits from the eminent sage Larry the Cable Guy

Easy way to make your car high off the ground to do work underneath. No jackstands in the way and no chance of missing the spot to put them. I think I'll make a set and I'll put grip tape on the surface where the tires hit and then just paint them black. Good write up and good idea.

Helps my Dodge minivans every time I put it in........

B12 Chemtool Fuel Treatment. The Total Fuel System is good but it's much more expensive due to the PEA. I've run both over the years (When I was repping Berryman, I used to get it for free so I could use as much as I wanted) but more immediate results always seemed to come from the red/white/blue can. Usually the TFS is about double the cost and not worth the extra money in my opinion.

Yeah. The IHI's are pinned at the exhaust housing so that alignment is pretty much set in stone unless you remove their tiny roll pin, which is easily done. The IHI's are also the ones that are sealed with silicone, so it would be extremely difficult to actually turn the compressor housing and if you could, that would definitely tell you that your seal wasn't much good to begin with...LOL. I've taken apart IHI's and have found just enough silicone there to see a discoloration but not enough to actually seal anything. I've repaired a couple of boost leaks right at this spot because being right in the firing line of the compressor wheel, it can push right past the crappy seal (or lack thereof) and cause a boost leak you'll tear your hair out trying to find. Good photos though because I've found many turbos that were not in alignment causing the installers a TON of headaches trying to get the TMIC bolted on and they are a pain in the ass enough even if they are in correct alignment.

Please forgive me if I spoke out of line. I've not had a BNR apart as of yet (I do have a new BNR 16G on the shelf) so I'm not familiar with his internal assembly. If he does use an O-ring, that certainly is a lot easier and more forgiving when needing to rotate the compressor housing.

You turned exhaust housing or compressor housing? Exhaust housing is pinned on IHI VF series turbos to ensure that it's aligned correctly. The compressor housing, while it looks like it's only clamped on with bolts/washers, it's actually sealed with high temperature silicone from the compressor backing plate to the compressor housing. If you turned this even slightly, you most likely tore the silicone seal and probably created what will turn out to be a boost leak right where the backing plate and compressor housing meet. I completely agree that the planes on the both of the flanges need to be exactly parallel and if they aren't it becomes quite a pain to try to hook up the TMIC and both UP and DP without everything leaking. If I were you, I would be wary of the possible boost leak and look for it after you install the turbo or you could just remove the compressor housing, clean off all of the silicone, and then re-seal it with it in the correct position. This will eliminate the worry of possible boost leak.

If I have a car that seems to be boggy or doesn't start as well as I want it to, I put a whole can in 1/2 tank of fuel and then drive it down to 1/4 and refill it completely with good (Shell, Mobil, Exxon) fuel and drive it again to 1/4 and fill again. Purchase the product in the METAL can, not the plastic bottle. Berryman had to put it in metal with the original B12 as it would eventually soften the plastic bottle and cause the bottle to finally begin to leak. I was repping them when they figured this out (had a lot of warranty issues with the plastic bottles beginning to leak and had to send it back to Berryman) and began using the metal cans. The cans are also good to keep around as they're nicely made and the cap seals very well. The concentration of the first application generally cleans up most issues if they are related to varnished/sticking fuel injectors and also helps the fuel pump as well. Do NOT pour this into 1/2 tank and let the car sit for a week or so. The Berryman is very strong and it can actually soften vent hoses and cause them to collapse when the vent vacuum is applied from normal operation of the vehicle. If you aren't going to drive it through, then wait and use it when you go on a longer trip. If you drive 30+ miles a day, and do it every day, then go ahead and use it as I state above. You should definitely see a difference if your issue is fuel injector related.

My apologies if we misunderstood each other. As for the MMO, as I had said earlier, Ferrari recommends it at regular intervals in their fuel systems as it "lubricates the fuel pump and related components". I've used it in the past in a few vehicles including my lawnmower but I can't really say for sure that it either hurt or helped. As for the plugs being fouled, MMO is a very light aromatic oil base so I'm sure it's burned through as quickly as the fuel. What it WILL do is leave a slight oily base behind that will help to lubricate the exhaust valve guide slightly through the passage. I do know that when I repped MMO, we sold a LOT of it. The Mystery about Marvel Mystery Oil is: You can put it in the oil, you can put it in the gas-the mystery-how does it know?

Post #26

I understood what you were saying. My post means that I've never had a fuel injector issue in almost a million combined miles and have been using the Berryman in all of them. Chryslers are known for FI issues and I've not had them with these. Fords, not so much but it does run better when we use it. Sure, the cars would have gone that far because I take care of them and do maintenance rather than wait for failures, but the fuel systems have never had any issues and I attribute it to regular usage of the Berryman. Give it a try. It costs $4 and if it doesn't help your car, then it's only $4 but I'm pretty sure it will. Sometimes, people are absolutely amazed at how much difference just one can of B12 makes.

I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan AWD with just over 305K on it and the engine has never been apart and it will get around 23.5-24.0 mpg on the highway and I've been running the Berryman through it since I bought it in 2005 with 87K on it and it never has had a single issue with fuel injectors and it's still (knock on my wooden head) even on the original fuel pump. I've used this stuff in all of my vehicles and the only vehicle I own with less than 100K is my LGT. My wife's 2002 Exploder with just over 150K will get about 1 mpg better for 7-8 tankfuls when I put a bottle in and my other Chrysler T&C AWD has 167K on it and it runs about 23 mpg on the highway. I've been using it in this vehicle since I bought it at 61K. Hell, I run it in my 97 OB Wagon with 2.5 DOHC that has 255K on it and it has never had a single fuel injector issue either. I'm second owner (bought it from my brother at 105K) and he ran Berryman in it from about 50K. You can try all of them. I've tested all of them. Then try the Berryman and you'll actually feel and hear the difference in how it runs.

You'll notice it in any vehicle that has some miles on it. The fuel injectors become varnished because of the styrene in gasoline, which is a by-product of the gasoline and additives you purchase at the station. The Berryman Chemtool B12 will dissolve those varnishes on contact and you'll realize a smoother running engine because the fuel injectors and fuel pump will operate much smoother and easier. Just don't become addicted to it by using it too much. About every 8-10 tanks will keep everything nice and clean and you'll feel the difference in acceleration and also see it in gas mileage too.

Follow your gas mileage closely and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised on this as well.

Give us some cost figures on gallons of Acetone and Chevron. A 12 ounce bottle of Chevron generally runs about $8-$10 so a gallon has to be pretty pricey.

I don't know where you came up with fuel additives with solvent properties lowering octane ratings. That's not correct information, as is evidenced by the following: Berryman's B12 per MSDS: Toluene 40-50% Acetone 20-30% Methanol 20-30% Methyl Ethyl Ketone <5% Isopropyl Alcohol <5% 2-Butoxyethanol <5% Toluene can be used as an octane booster in gasoline fuels used in internal combustion engines. Toluene at 86% by volume fueled all the turbo Formula 1 teams in the 1980s, first pioneered by the Honda team. Some teams had been running this so-called "black art mix" in their engines with as high as 73 p.s.i. of peak boost and the engines were surviving long enough to finish most races. The remaining 14% of the fuel was a "filler" of n-heptane, to reduce the octane to meet Formula 1 fuel restrictions. Toluene at 100% can be used as a fuel for both two-stroke and four-stroke engines; however, due to the density of the fuel and other factors, the fuel does not vaporize easily unless preheated to 70 degrees celsius (Honda accomplished this in their Formula 1 cars by routing the fuel lines through the muffler system to heat the fuel). Toluene also poses similar problems as alcohol fuels, as it eats through standard rubber fuel lines and has no lubricating properties as standard gasoline does, which can break down fuel pumps and cause upper cylinder bore wear. Granted, most additives don't contain the same solvents that the B-12 does, but to make a general statement that fuel additives lower octane ratings is incorrect.