JmP6889928

I have no experience with these but know others that have used both WitchHunter and Deatschwerks. The price ranges from $16 each up to $25 each and I'm sure they all do a decent job or they wouldn't be in business. For whomever you use, PM me with a short 2-3 line review of their service and I'll edit this post to include it for others to read. Thanks. http://www.witchhunter.com/ http://www.deatschwerks.com/services/fuel-injector-services http://clean.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-cleaning-services-procedures/ http://cleaninginjector.com/ http://www.mrinjector.us/ http://injector-rehab.com/shop/ http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-Cleaning-P43C0.aspx http://www.tlfperformanceparts.com/Inj-Cleaning/InjClean-Car-Trck.html Review from LatentWagen (thanks much) on both Witchhunter and Deatschwerks: I've used both witchhunter and deatschwerks. Both do very good work... however, witchunter leaves something to be desired in terms of customer relations/service. The guy is a straight up jerk. I called in to check status, and he literally yelled at me for not checking the FAQ on his web page. Had to take the phone off my ear Been using DW ever since, and 3 sets of injectors later they have yet to disappoint. UPDATE ! ! I personally sent in 2 complete sets of injectors to DW a few weeks ago and I have to say that their communication was not very good. I received the injectors back with the reports finally after 8 work days and once I received them, I had to call them about which injector was which. They engrave a VERY light and small number on each injector that if you're not specifically looking for it, you'll never see it. They weren't rude, but it just seemed as though they really didn't want to be bothered by someone on the phone. I have another set I need to send in and I'll give them one more try.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010/?tag=vglnkc6475-20]Amazon.com: OTC 6297 Ball Joint Separator: Automotive[/ame] http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html Some have had great luck with this type: http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html?hftref=cj

This website has detailed information for TPMS with diagrams as well as showing different wheel types available within the model year you choose. The link is for LGT 2008 Spec B/GT Limited TPMS but you can easily search for your model and year on this page. http://www.parts.com/parts/2008/Subaru/Legacy/GT%20Limited?siteid=2&vehicleid=201803&diagram=7524345&itemAdded Tool for reactivation if you have multiple sets of tires/wheels for different seasons: http://www.tpmstoolman.com/ateq-vt30-tpms-reset-activation-programmer-tool/?gclid=CLyuw-eaprwCFY07Mgod4h8Azw Or this: http://www.tpmstoolman.com/ateq-quickset-tpms-reset-tool/

Try hot wiring the pump directly to 12V and see if it pushes the fluid further. If it does, then you have a voltage drop somewhere, most likely the switch itself.

http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/

All of the AVO and Whiteline LCA bushings as well as just about every other chassis/suspension parts (Cusco, EPIC, GT Spec, H&R, Hotchkis, ISC, Kartboy, KONI, KW, KYB, Perrin, Rally Armour, SPC, OE Subaru, Tein, Torque Solutions) are available here: http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-2005-Legacy-GT-cln-Chassis-fdsh-Suspension/Categories You can also look here and find just about ANYTHING you would need for suspension and brakes: http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/suspension-brakes-115.html Lots of stuff here for you East Coasters too: http://azpinstalls.com/web/index.php/products Prothane kit for suspension: http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Subaru+Legacy+2005

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FKPJJNY/?tag=vglnkc6475-20]Cutequeen Trading 2PCS White 5050 48SMD 48-SMD LED Panel Dome Light Lamp + T10 BA9S Festoon Adapter (pack of 2) : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame] As per dahoseman these significantly improved his interior lighting. Diode Dynamics-forum member and vendor: http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/led-bulbs/listed-by-vehicle/subaru/legacy.html

Politicians are people who, when they see the light at the end of the tunnel, go out and buy some more tunnel. John Quinton

If you think nobody cares, try missing a couple of payments. Larry the Cable Guy

Scientists tell us that the fastest animal on earth, with a top speed of 120 feet per second, is a cow that has been dropped out of a helicopter. Dave Barry

The two most important days in your life are the day you are born....and the day you find out why. Mark Twain

I never knew what real happiness was until I got married, and by then, it was too late. Max Kaufman

If you look like your passport photo, you're too ill to travel. Will Kommen

http://www.awdmotorsports.com/product_p/AWDCOM131.htm Have not used this so can't give testament to how well it works but it looks like it would work well. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=subaru+cam+tool&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=25959907117&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4088402172121314473&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5hhg0h8f5o_b A BUNCH of different cam tools. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4366413&postcount=158 Hammerdown's thread showing the "Vise Grip" way to do it. UPDATE ! ! I personally purchased the Company 23 cam gear tool below for locking the cams in place for timing belt replacement and I have to tell you that it worked flawlessly in every way. It's very simple to adjust, very simple to line up, very simple to lock into place, and very simple to remove once you have the belt on. I know for fact that this saved me a TON of time in putting the belt on. No issues because nothing could move at all. If you're replacing a timing belt that's already installed, simply insert the tool into both of the gears after lining everything up BEFORE removing your old belt and tighten it into place. Slip your belt off and you're all set to put the new one back on. I give it 5 stars. ***** http://cdn3.volusion.com/hqwdm.vmwpm/v/vspfiles/photos/AWDCOM131-2T.jpg?1395298159

Osram H7 65W Rallye bulbs http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html

DO YOUR HOMEWORK. THERE ARE MANY OPTIONS ON THESE BUT THE ONES LISTED BELOW ARE KNOWN TO WORK. IF YOU PURCHASE AN OFF BRAND OR HOUSE BRAND OF HUB AND IT DOESN'T WORK, YOU HAVE TRIED TO CHEAP YOUR WAY OUT AND YOU WILL PAY FOR IT WITH FITMENT ISSUES AND ABS LIGHTS ON. THERE ARE OTHER BRANDS THAT ARE OK IF YOU CAN FIND THEM (NTN, KOYO, FAG, TOYO, ETC.) BUT THEY ARE DIFFICULT TO OBTAIN. TIMKEN: Front #: HA590118 Rear #: HA590119 Both of these available at Autozone SKF: Front #: BR930473 Rear #: BR930474 BCA NATIONAL: Front #: 18220-07060464* Lists specifically GT Rear #: 18220-07060289* Lists specifically GT NSK: Front #: Rear #: W0133-1805930* NSK is an OE supplier to a LOT of different manufacturers for a lot of different bearing applications. BECK/ARNLEY: Front #: 18220-05217518* Rear #: 18220-05217523* OE FROM AMAZON: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-Bearing-Assembly-2005-2013/dp/B008XLICYO]Genuine Subaru Front Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly for 2005-2013 Legacy and Outback : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame] GMB FROM AMAZON: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/GMB-799-0299-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B004QHNBH2/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru|13&Model=Legacy|64&Year=2005|2005&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive#productDetails]Amazon.com: GMB 799-0299 Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly: Automotive[/ame] GMB is an OE supplier of a LOT of bearings and they do appear to be inexpensive. *Part numbers are from Parts Geek http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/subaru/legacy/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/wheel_hub_assembly.html One member said he ordered all 4 HBA from a company called Detroit Axle on ebay for $168.48 and installed them with no issues with either ABS or cruise control. There is also posted information from both a representative of Detroit Axle and MOOG concerning their HBA and the Legacy application. Good information and if you're on a strict budget, perhaps the way to go for you. Here is his thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/success-non-oem-wheel-hub-bearing-units-221269.html UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE Information stolen from another thread and posted by member Sensation from NZ who works for a company that specializes in hub/bearing assemblies and here is a good description of several manufacturers: "Thought i'd chip in my 2 cents worth. I work for a company called SAECOWilson, one of NZ's biggest bearing supplier and are sister company to a few big bearing companies across Australia also. Timken - One of the best in the world, they manufacture their own bearing steel and sell their steel to other bearing companies. They're built strong and no bearing leaves their factory without each going through an xray, crack tester, harmonic test etc. NTN - Manufactured in two plants, one in Japan and one in Taiwan. The Taiwanese bearings are still under the same build quality and control as the Japanese ones. NTN make alot of bearings for OEM, such as A/C pumps, Idlers and Tensioners and alot of wheel bearings. They also supply most of the CV joints and universal joints across the automotive world. KOYO - Another big OEM supplier out of Japan, Honda use Koyo as their supplier for all of their wheel bearings, i'm pretty sure Nissan and Mitsubishi follow suite. SKF - Another good quality player, they have slipped over the years but are still none the less a great bearing. They're made across a few different countries, USA, Romania, Germany and England. Nachi - Japanese made, great quality control and also an OEM supplier for A/C pumps, idlers etc. NSK - One of the bigger names in the industrial world, they supply a little of the OEM automotive world but mostly are known for their industrial units. Such as their spherical rollers, slewing rings and linear motion. I would use any of them in my cars, whether it's my daily or any race car i've built. One thing I would recommend is asking your shop where they buy them from, explain it's not so you can go look for a cheaper price but so you can guarantee they're a genuine item. We have a big issue in NZ, where some competitors were selling a NSK wheel bearing kit for $20 when it would be 100% impossible, as even our price from NSK (we're the only NSK agent in NZ) is more than that, and it turned out they were just Chinese bearings in an NSK box. Hope you found this helpful, I'm only a new member here but thought I'd do my bit to shed some light on what is general maintenance and could help keep disaster from happening. :)" http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/wheel-bearings-oem-after-marketi-222105p3.html Post #35 Also, a LOT of success with the Detroit Axle hub/bearing assemblies both in the front and rear and they appear to be, without a doubt, the best price no matter where you find them. If you search that thread listed above, you can find success after success at a fraction of a price of the OE assemblies. UPDATE FROM MAX CAPACITY-Thanks Max [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Timken-HA590315-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B0031HRJ5S/?tag=viglink20901-20]Amazon.com: Timken HA590315 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly: Automotive[/ame]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1390296&cc=1432596

http://www.grimmspeed.com/crank-pulley-removal-tool-subaru/

http://gtboostgauge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=32 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vent-boost-gauge-digital-led-bars-numerics-125083.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4445721&postcount=1292 Thanks to Fultonhow for the links

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4278790&postcount=60

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/plug-n-play-aux-mod-2005-6cd-radios-18504.html

Turkeylord's fuel pump wiring mod: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/upgrading-your-fuel-pump-wiring-4th-gen-213570.html

http://www.raamaudio.com/ http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/index.htm http://www.dynamat.com/ http://www.b-quiet.com/?gclid=CO-hy9Dol7wCFaZAMgodPnEArA http://www.soundproofcow.com/Dampening-and-Deadening/?gclid=CJ2D5-Xol7wCFY1cMgod83oAew http://www.fatmat.com/ If you google most of the products above, you can find various sources for purchase. Compare pricing and product and make your choice.

Good stuff all. Please make sure and title the post and that way in the search it will come up easier.

Without water pump-black replacement belt: http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-75/Gates-Racing-Subaru-Timing/Detail http://www.fredbeansparts.com/gates-racing-timing-belt-belt-kit.html Without water pump-blue kevlar racing belt: http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-611/Gates-Racing-Subaru-Timing/Detail http://www.fredbeansparts.com/gates-racing-subaru-timing-kit-s-with-kevlar-racing-timing-belt.html