silverton

The only part of the AC system that may reduce air flow is the evaporator.  You did mention you saw a bunch of debris against it, that on top of an inefficient AC system from an incorrect charge amount will make it ice up excessively and would effectively block air flow.

You're describing two separate issues.  airflow and temperature.  are you perceiving reduced airflow because of a change in expected temperature? If it is the temperature issue and it goes from ice colds to luke warm then it's either the charge amount, the relay, or the compressor itself.  If it is just airflow, which reduced airflow can make it seem like the temperature is incorrect, I'd suspect the blower motor or the blower motor resistor.

If you charged the AC yourself with cans from an automotive store, I highly recommend you take the car to an AC specialist for a recharge, as those cans create more problems than they solve.  IMHO those cans should be illegal to sell.

23 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

But from the location of the what you're trying to show in the photos, the only way it could be ATF there is if it travelled a way. What you've got circled in red has nothing at all to do with the PS system. If there is't any apparently blowout oil there, then great, carry on. If there any sign of oil seepage or dirt, consider at least giving your PCV valve a quick cleanout...

Absolutely!  This photo here of moisture on the turbo inlet is PCV blow by; but it's not bad enough to address.

On 11/24/2019 at 8:13 PM, 08legacygtturbo said:

What tires is everyone running looking at performance tires for dry/wet weather road and track surface I'm going to be running 255/35/18 was looking at Continental extreme contact sports and Toyo r888r I have looked at other brands but what's popular on our 4th gens

On 8/1/2023 at 3:30 PM, edfernandez2 said:

I bought my Legacy from a dealer but with 2010 WRX 17 OEM wheels.  I'm shopping around for tires and could use some guidance.  Should I create a separate thread on this?  Location is in Florida, so no snowy winters, just plenty of humid heat and rain.  Edit: I also forgot to mention- it'll be for road use not track.  

15 hours ago, 06Obsidian3.0RB said:

I don't even understand why people who run DWS year round are even participating in a thread about true UHP summer street/track tyres.

Are we in the same thread buddy?  Neither OP or the revivalist mention UHP tires.  OP is asking for dry/wet weather road and track, so that probably actually means more road than track.  and the other guy said "for road use not track"

So yeah, people who run DWS year round should be participating in this thread as it's a very good tire for what both people are asking for.

Don't waste money on flushing the engine, if anything that may make consumption worse.

Yeah it's definitely too late to stop whats happening without a rebuild/replacement.  If you're just trying to run it til it dies I'd just keep changing the oil with 5w30 or even a 5w40 at whatever interval you want to.  Honestly with your rate of consumption you're basically doing a rolling oil change.  Replace the oil filter every 6-12 months and make sure the oil is full, good to go!

every 0 weight oil is going to be synthetic.  you can find full and partial synthetic 5w30.  It doesn't matter any more though, that was an issue like 20 years ago when synthetic oils were new.

you should read that as "0w20 oil is optimal for fuel efficiency so the EPA gets off our back"

7500 is the normal service table; but I bet you don't fall under normal service. You need to follow the severe service table (OCI 3750) if any one of the following applies:

I live in Seattle, so I frequently check mark the first, second, and fourth severe condition. In a few years we're all gonna be driving under that third one

That's wild buddy! I've been curious how many ugga dugga's it takes to damage a stud in a way to do this.  Do you use wheel spacers?

No, if you read your owners manual you should find 5w30 is an approved weight, you'll notice 1-2mpg less though.  7500 is far too long, so you may have done this to yourself?

I don't know what they recommended on your car when new, but at a dealership in 2020 your car was on a 3750 interval. 15+ were 6000 miles and that's still too long to go on oil, but that's what they do to lower the cost of ownership metric..  you should go 5000 tops, definitely NOT 7500

Using a slightly thicker oil weight wont void your warranty, unless you put some 75w90 in there.... dont do that.

Since you do it yourself and you have concern for warranty claim, have your parts guy ring the 0w20 up, but then refund it for the 5w30

On 1/29/2023 at 9:15 AM, ammcinnis said:

You seem to be describing two different problems. Which is it? Steering wheel not centered when driving straight? Car steers to the right when steering wheel is released? Either way, there's a TSB for that.

TSB_04-19-17_Steering_Pull_171227.pdf 593.07 kB · 5 downloads

This TSB leads down a rabbit hole that says to make a warranty claim for the tires.

On 1/30/2023 at 8:12 PM, Tom Pearl said:

Not mixed. All Primewell PS830/850. I don't know if they're directional, asymmetrical or what. Today the dealership inflated all tires to specs

Cheapest of the cheap tires, I don't really care if they fall under Bridgestone's umbrella, I don't like their tires either.

On 5/4/2023 at 7:05 PM, Tom Pearl said:

The primewells were installed a little over a year ago. I bought the car with the factory tires on it and they were heavily worn in an abnormally way reflective of the pull to the right.

'reflective' of a pull to the right?  Or did you actually notice a pull to the right? What did the wear on the tires look like?

9 hours ago, Tom Pearl said:

It’s not the tires as I’ve stated before in the thread. Car was pulling with the factory tires on. 
Im fully convinced it’s something to do with the steerIng wheel or steering assembly. The wheel is just not centered. Its a degree or two off to the right 

I still think its the tires.  The only way I will have confidence that it's not the tires is if you put this set of wheels/tires on another vehicle and it drives fine.

Just as an aside, a subaru specialty shop wont be as well outfitted as a dealership, I've worked at two and have missed some of the things the dealership provides.  You could try barking up SOA's tree and saying something like 'hey, my car does this thing and i've taken it in a bunch of times for the same complaint and they all say it's fine, while also confirming my complaint, can you help?'

15 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

I meant if we had this conversation 15 years ago as opposed to running 15yo tires lol. 

The dws are pretty old aren't they? I feel like it was that line that was on my car when I bought it in 2012. 

The Michelin as4s rollout used wrxs at nola. Are there faster tires? Sure. But if you would have done that track event 15 years ago with whatever was hot back then you wouldn't get out of the car and think, "eh that's not really a true performance tire."

The cross climate is definitely in that class of "no.. that's not really a good trackable tire.." 

They call them DWS06 Plus now.   They improved the wet and snow performance by like 10% or some silly metric they decided to use.

Cross Climates are for your grandmas outback.

I don't recommend running 15 year old rubbers.

If you were not smart you would have just rode it out LOL

Some work was probably done on the front end of the vehicle and person doing the work was not good.

19 hours ago, 59ctd said:

my son and I generally just use a 24" breaker bar and get them good and tight once the vehicle is back on the ground.

This pains my soul to the very core.  Did you know that your brake rotors can warp from unequal torque on the lug nuts? At the very least go buy a clicker torque wrench from harbor freight the wheels are mounted to 120nm or about 89ft/lbs.  Just for some maths.  150lbs on the end of a 2 foot breaker bar can apply 300 ft-lbs of torque

Nothing special if you have the hub rings with the wheels, they'll mount up just like OE.  My set of hub rings like to pop out or stay attached to the hub when removing them so you do have to pay extra attention there.  You absolutely do not want to double up those rings.

Nah those bolts dont just end up being loose.  Glad you were smart enough to get that looked at before any one died.  Front suspension falling apart at speed would be ungood.

Well you got a '13 legacy, hindsight is always 20:20.  every FB engine from 11-13 consumed oil, those were the beta engines when the EPA forced subaru to push the engine into production, forester seemed to have gotten the worst of it..  even some of the 14s and 15s.  I know your case is different since you were trying any oil to stop your consumption, but as I said .... getting my oil changed at one shop i thought had consumption issues, started changing it at another shop and boom.. no consumption, only difference was quality of oil.

My recommendation is get that Outback, but from the very beginning run a high quality 5w30 like chevron/mobil1/idemitsu/whatever.. over the 0w20 the dealer has and change the oil every 3000 miles. I think the 6000 mile interval is just asinine.

IMHO, carfax's are there to make uninformed people feel better about their purchase.

Imagine my surprise when my insurance agent told me that my, supposedly, 'clean title clean carfax' car had been already paid out by a prior claim as a 'major loss'.

I do believe they will show you service history though, so long as the shop the vehicle was serviced by submitted to the service; that's what you want to see.  My 3.6 had a stellar service history, would have walked away otherwise..  6k oil changes, except when they did the 30k, they took it 10k miles before the next service.

I don't think whiteline is going to make a front bar for the sixth gen. They barely make one for the fifth gen, same diameter...but two adjustment/set points. big whoop.  I remember measuring the front bar on mine and it was something stupid like 26 or 28.

Me personally, I wish I could ADD start/stop to my 3.6

Woof!  You're asking people with 8 year old cars if they have 175k on them yet??  That's 22k miles a year buddy! Maybe some dashers or uberererers are here but those cars are run hard and beat to hell so not a far comparison to someone who just needs a commuter.

I got my 2017 3.6 a little over a year ago and I've put about 12-13k on it.  I live in WA, there were a few road trips, Montana once..or twice?... the peninsula a handful of times... the car got a lot of "extra" miles this year so to say.  I worked at a subaru independent and did two or three oil changes on it during my time there.  Each time I would be .75 to 1 quart low on oil.  Ya know, I just accepted it; I thought it only affected the four cylinder cars but whatever.  I started working at a different shop, different oil, I've changed it twice in my time there.  Both times the oil was right on the full dot with zero change in driving habits or whatnot.  Independent shop had bulk oil trucked in from... Kendall maybe? whofrickinknows..  the new shop I worked at didn't have bulk oil, so both times I had them order Idemitsu for me.  Idemitsu is an OE supplier of oil so it's good shit.

So, if you do end up with another Subaru, and I hope you do!, and you fear its consuming oil... try a different brand before fulling writing it off.

Just be thankful you don't have Tesla fitment.

Hey that doesn't look too bad! I'd miss my two cup holders though! Oh wait! Are they behind the shifter hidden by the center console lid?

6 minutes ago, Beamercub said:

Hmmm, got me thinking of other ways to get the temperature?  Infrared?  

A $10-20 bluetooth ELM dongle and an OBD app (torque for android idon't know apple stuff) would display the necessary info.  I know some techs just use a laser temp scanner on the bottom of the pan but I'd rather have the car tell me what the sensor temp is.

On 12/1/2023 at 1:59 PM, LegacyManCT said:

Hi,

For a couple of months, my 2016 Legacy was making a clicking noise when maneuvering from a main road to a parking lot. Had the wheels aligned today and asked the dealer to check the clicking noise, which was getting more frequent.

Was told that I had to replace the left front assembly replaced. Is that expected for a 7-year car with 71k miles? I had other Subarus (3 Foresters before, 1 still with me) and 2 made past 120k miles without major repairs - always followed the recommended maintenance plan.

Thoughts? I feel like jumping off Subaru when I get my next car. I also had to replace the spring in the steering rack assembly at 65k miles.

 

Spring in the steering rack assembly?  You mean the TSB for the bit of looseness that's felt when the rack isn't powered?  You didn't HAVE to do that...

https://www.carcomplaints.com/Subaru/Legacy/2017/tsbs/tsb-04-17-17-r.shtml

18 minutes ago, Beamercub said:

No, it's not normal.  My 2015 had the front left wheel bearing replace at only 16k miles and rear diff was replaced at 21k.  I'm at 122k miles now and all wheel bearing have been replaced.   My passenger rear wheel bearing is needing replacement soon as well.  Front shocks have been replaced, passenger front ball joint, all bushings front and rear replaced..  Doing the bearings is easier now with the cartridge design bolt on/off..   Doing pressed in wheel bearings can be a pain and almost impossible without a press.  The front end on the 6th gen has always seemed wonky to me, even more so in the 3.6R.  I miss having a good old hydraulic steering sytem.

Every cars suspension should be refreshed every 70-100k miles to keep the car performing like it did when new. I don't know what's different about the 3.6's steering though, afaik it's identical to the 2.5.  Just so you're aware, Subaru was very late to the game on the electronic steering. I worked on a 2006 Saturn Vue the other day, electric steering. My buddy bought a brand new '13 Accord and had to replace two of his wheel bearings under warranty.  He was also close to 300lbs and it was the driver side wheel bearings that needed to be replaced, coincidence? Depending on how the vehicle is loaded will certainly play a part in how long particular components last.

All that being said.  Cars are NOT built to last; they're throw away objects, they want you to buy a new one, and the 6th/7th gen legacy/outback is unfortunately succumbing to that.  Other cars have the exact same issues and are a lot more expensive to work on.  cost of repairs/maintenance over 5 years on a 17 legacy 3.6 vs 17 audi a4(6) 2.0 turbo quattro (8990 vs 13493(15456)). Yeah I'll keep the subaru even if I have to put an extra axle and battery in it.

My '01 legacy has 230k on it, I've put 31 of that on there, I've only put 12k on my '17 3.6 and I already feel like it just wont be in similar condition at 230k; and it's not for lack of trying.

What is that a picture for ants??

All those things you said sound right.  Aren't Subaru's cool?

You press the button and then they compress like normal, no twisty just squeeze. 

The only information needed via scantool for a drain and fill is CVT temperature, a relearn is not necessary.

What's the shifter assembly look like in the canadian models? The CVT hugely mutes the 3.6 in this generation.  I took a buddy for a ride and he said, "how in the fuck is it faster 30-60 than it is 0-30?"

I still have my 32-bit WinXP laptop and VAGCOM cable from when I turbocharged and tuned my turbo gc-rs.  I haven't attempted to plug it in to the 3.6 yet.  I'm sure at the very least OBD scanning would be possible but things like setting the brake maintenance mode to replace rear pads would not be supported with any of the software on it currently.

I want SSM4 and a denso interface box so bad.