silverton

It fits the keyfob if you're keyless and don't have anything attached to it.  Otherwise a bunch of junk accumulates there for some reason...

What I would like to see is a super slow mo camera in a combustion chamber with these, and other, spark plugs to see how it actually differs. As Moleman says, a change in weather will change perceivable performance. 

If you have dyno access, that would also be good.  The difference between science and fucking around is writing down what you find and comparing results.

17 hours ago, MoleMan said:

Seems the plug is not gapped at all.

It's a pretty poor excuse of a side gap if anything: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/does-side-gapping-spark-plugs-work/

10 hours ago, famaya26 said:

Is it really a genuine Subaru if it doesn't throw a CEL?

 

Sitting in the drive thru at In N Out and CEL along with everything disabled. Its happened before and it's the Ambient Air Temp Sensor. Going to remove it again tomorrow and see if cleaning it works, replaced it with a new one 2 weeks ago. Going to get the code read again just to make sure. 

Did you possibly damage it when you took the bumper off?

I'm curious how you blew it up though, I listen to mine at/or near max volume a lot, gained some interior piece rattles but the speakers are still fine.  i only have my bass eq on +2 though, so maybe you have yours higher?

since the pedals are swapped maybe they broke the clutch safety switch and rigged it, hard to say without having the car and performing diagnostics.

Another thing turning me off from them is that Nitrode does not have a web presence except for Amazon and other online retailers.

This guy didn't like them:

https://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/warning-pilot-automotive-nitrode-spark-plugs-sp-np28.142906/

Good God I'm not replacing my spark plugs every five thousand miles for a few horsepower. I like my time and money too much for that. I realize you got them for free but I wouldn't.

If the issue presents with the hazards as well, the turn signal runs through the hazard switch, I'd put money on that aftermarket relay being the issue.

2005 with a CVT?

Excuse me? Does not compute buddy.

If the car was originally an automatic and is now a manual it would make sense that the cruise control doesn't work.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2020_Legacy-25L-Premium-Sedan/Speaker-WOOFER-A-Device-that-emits-Sound-HARMAN/60018635/86301AL75A.html

Rear seat removal:

C pillar removal:

Rear shelf removal:

Hope this helps, have fun!

There is a large financial risk if your experimental spark plug fails and grenades the motor, especially in a boosted application.

2-3% (on my ez36) gains giving the benefit of the doubt of 6hp and 8ftlbs of torque aren't worth it in my book.

Current ignition systems are so overly powerful that any kind of capacitance isn't necessary and adds a fail point.

But by all means though, report back after you've run them for 30,000 miles. I am curious what you learn.

That looks good!

snake oil.

buy NGK or Denso.

alldata calls for 8 hours to replace clutch and flywheel, but as these cars get older and depending on what part of the country you live in, it can and will be more.

If you absolutely need one the junkyard is the best bet. Otherwise just let it ride, or secure it with a zip tie. Enough heat cycles and years they just break no matter what you do.

It's rubber so probably.

Service manual only has one diag step for P0244....

"Any other codes displayed?" Yes: Inspect the relevant DTC. No: Replace the wastegate solenoid control valve.

In this case I would solve your cylinder misfires before doing anything with P0244, unless it's obviously unplugged.

Did you disconnect and forget to reconnect/tighten any engine grounds? If you have a massive air leak, like a torn turbo inlet that could cause it though. It's very easy to 'lip' the turbo inlet upon reinstallation depending on how you went about the process, you may have to R&R the turbo again and ensure you have the turbo inlet set properly. You might be able to get away with taking the hex bolt out that holds it to the intake manifold and finagling it around. But also, at 200k miles if you still have the OE inlet, it's likely time for a replacement.

cam and/or crank sensors potentially

pretty sure it's just two bolts and an electrical plug, vs four bolts, an electrical plug and two coolant connections

Maybe it wasn't your throttle body that was dying and it was actually your accelerator pedal?

If you've done a combustion test on the coolant and it's clean, I doubt it's head gaskets.  Cylinder pressure is far higher than cooling system pressure so if they were bad, you would see it in your test.  Your coolant reservoir should be somewhere between mid-full when at operating temperature due to fluid expansion from heat.  I don't think it's water pump failure unless you can see coolant weeping from the bottom of it or it's making abnormal noises, the impeller is connected directly to the pulley.

I'm still suspect of the thermostat or the radiator cap.

Immobilizer reprogramming comes up very rarely, I only had to do it once in my year at this independent shop.  I know an SSM3 or 4 can do it, a generic scan tool probably not.  If you get one of the more expensive Autel units I'm sure that could do it.

I'm pretty sure you need a dealer provided code to get into the reprogramming portion of this particular models immobilizer.  A dealer should be able to provide you the code, if needed, for $20 or so via email; they will need some sort of proof that it is your vehicle.

@m sprank I was fired Thursday from my indi Subie shop because of a seized/rusted bolt that broke in a 2011 Legacy's subframe while doing control arm/steering rack replacement, honestly their loss as I'm basically a Subaru encyclopedia.  The subframe is on backorder But that's okay, I had a job two days later with a $15 pay raise, but it's a Euro shop that's expanding to Japanese makes.  The Subie's will start to come in but my world has been turned upside down with the Mercedes....Audi...BMW's.... fuck those cars are put together wheird.

With you being able to take the radiator cap off after 5 minutes of 'cool down' there's no way there is pressure building in the system.  Even just running a car a couple minutes there is generally a small amount of pressure built up already and you make a small mess when removing the radiator cap.

If you were having combustion chamber pressure entering the coolant system you would have geysers coming out of the funnel, not just bubbles. triple digit psi's build up in the combustion chamber

So yeah, I would say at this point the system is bled of air to the point you can road test, if a road test still over heats I would begin suspecting the radiator and/or the radiator cap.