silverton

Took of a picture of it on a customer car, it goes into the loom on the frame rail.

it's a grenade with the pin pulled and lost buddy. but good luck!  if there are no codes it'll be difficult to diagnose, clean or replace the MAF sensor and make sure there are no intake or exhaust leaks

Well, what @m sprank said is true, and I'm sorry you didn't want to hear it.

My recommendation is to find a USDM 2006 era IMPREZA WRX and swap that into your IMPREZA.  Taking a JDM LEGACY and trying to put it into an USDM IMPREZA is a bad idea, as you have found out first hand. 

Or buddy, pave the way and let us know what you had to do to make it work so that others may follow in your footsteps. I did some googling and it appears that there are only those that want to know if it's possible, and those that have done it but now have issues.

You really should have done some research before doing something that's not been done before.

one of the many pains of a jdm car.  try using this site to find part numbers to compare to US parts.  they're probably the same, but... they might not be.  worst case you'd "retro fit" US parts on to it, us rotor, caliper with bracket, and pads, it should all bolt on. I have a 2001 USDM gt limited which apparently got its own brakes here, but when I ordered gt limited rotors from rockauto they were much bigger than the ones on my car, rotor has to match the caliper.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/

Neat he turned it into a business.  the first exotruck is pretty sweet.

https://exotruckllc.godaddysites.com/

I believe that is a ground junction for the ECM itself but I am not finding a good diagram to show you.

I always recommend new idlers/tensioners when a car needs a belt.  Most people dont buy them but it's the right way to do it.

That's exactly what it is.

13 hours ago, paulbuck77 said:

or a neighbor doing something nefarious.

those pesky neighbors setting up signal blockers is too damn high!

I don't think anyone has done this. You will have to pave the way. I think you're going to spend thousands and thousands of dollars just to find it can't work, just due to the fact that a legacy and an outback are kind of the same, but different enough. Oh, and not all EJ255's are the same, you would need one with the two piece oil pan.

You're far better off finding a 3.6 donor, and putting a 6 speed behind that. 3.6's make more power (1hp less than an STi stock for stock), and you can put a supercharger on them if you want more.

On 5/11/2023 at 2:57 PM, EricMcN said:

In the UK its common for JDM cars to be made a year before they are actually registered - logistics and all.

Mine is a MY08 and was manufactured in 2007 according to the VIN

Brand	SUBARU
Catalog	SUBARU201802
Name	LEGACY
Market	Europe/General
Vehicle Date	12.07.2007
Model Year From	03.04.2004
Model Year To	05.09.2009
Main Option Code	SV
Body Model	BLEEKMN
Destination Code	EK
Color	65Z - DIAMOND GRAY M
Interior Color	D20 - OFF BLACK
Body	SEDAN
Made For Region	RHD
Engine	3.0L DOHC NA & LPG
Vehicle Grade	30RB
Suspension	NORMAL SUSPENSION
Train	FULLTIME 4WD
Gearbox	6SP MANUAL TRANSMISSION

That's just how model year production works.  2008's would have started being built in September or October of 2007.

You should get in touch with Subaru of America. That dealership should be on the line for not fixing your car.

I have a no name brand 22mm long wrench that has the perfect bend to it to get these, it's almost like i accidentally found the special tool

19 hours ago, STAROHMER said:

The sensor is not an OEM replacement, perhaps I should switch in and OEM one before anything as I have heard troubles with aftermarket sensors

Yes, for any engine sensor it is ideal to get factory parts.

If you replaced the sensor with a known good or new OE and still getting that code, you have an issue with your wiring harness somewhere.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Outback-25L-TURBO-5MT-GT-LIMITEDOBKXT-WAGON/Engine-Control-Module-ECM-Wiring-Harness-Engine-Control-Module-Wiring-Harness/49233911/24020AC850.html

It might be this one? PN is the same between 5MT and AT

Panasonic did for awhile, but those are the batteries that generally regarded as gunk.  they have the opaque white sides.

scraping metal and a helicopter sound...  almost definitely the throwout against the pressure plate

Yeah the sound I heard from mine seemed to be coming from the front/middle too, does it happen in neutral or only while in gear? you do have a manual so it could be your throwout or pilot bearings.

I know they're konigs! i have a picture of the label inside the barrel but it doesn't do me any good with a google search they came with the car just running stock tire size 205/55r16's, has DWS06's on it now.

*mumbles to himself about stupid prius' owner who could have just pulled forward out of their spot but backed up into my passenger door instead*

(assuming original 200k miles suspension)

(h&r sport springs with gr2's)

No tricks, just stick the hose end in there and keep twisting til you catch a thread, it's certainly a mild PITA.

I run gr2's and h&r sports on my gen 3 legacy and love it, the ride and the look are great.  I want to get h&r sports for my gen 6

12 hours ago, 310Z said:

Does anyone have any experience with a preferred model of an air oil separator?

The reason I ask is My car is stock with a Cobb stage 1 tune. When I have been on the throttle above 3000 RPM and then come to a stop you can smell oil burning while the car is still idling. There are no leaks. I assume this is oil getting into the intake system, intercooler and so on. I never notice any decreased oil on the dip stick so it is very small amounts of oil being burned but you can smell the burned oil inside and outside the car.

Is this common?

Will an air oil separator resolve this oil burning smell issue?

Or am I looking at some other issue?

stock with a stage 1 tune?  You're not even close to needing an air oil separator. Grab one of those when you start pushing 30+psi and making more than 500whp.

I'd imagine you have a leak, as the smell will rise from the engine and into the hvac intake, if you're smelling burning oil from the exhaust, that means exhaust is getting in the cabin and you're probably slowly killing yourself.

I know this is gonna sound crazy but..... muffler bearings.

In all seriousness, the internals of the muffler are likely falling apart. had it happen on my third gen almost immediately after getting the transmission rebuilt. and I hear it all the time on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gen foresters.  I don't know why the foresters so much.