silverton

You're kinda correct though, with the carrier bearing housing not being bolted down properly, it was out of balance.

Performed an oil change Thursday evening with about 150-200 miles left of my arbitrarily chosen 3000 mile OCI.  Then drove 700 miles through the night and morning to Shelby, MT. Been a long long time since I've been awake 24 hours, let alone close to 30. Napped for a few hours Friday morning, enjoyed a lovely service for my grandma, visited the family farm, and then slept for 12 hours before deciding to just go home instead of spending a couple more nights there. Close to 1600 miles added to the clock just over the weekend! I got in the car last night to go get ice cream and noted she's at 64,666!

Yeah, I've got my own road...

Shame it's not being maintained though, middle of absolutelyfuckinnowhere, had to exercise all four axles and drag the under body plastics at a couple points. I'd love to take it over and maintain but the nearest subaru dealership is 2 hours/107 miles away, and you're essentially snowed in over the winter so there's that...

This is a lie.

Some notable points in the trip: super thick fog that my girlfriend insisted on driving too fast through even with the danger of large jumpy animals, HBA wasn't doing her any favors though and she didn't know how to turn it off.  This was the one point in the trip I was trying to nap on the way over.  she jerked me awake and all I see is like 10 feet of visibility and she's doing 70-80, "holy fuck k-mart SLOW DOWN"

Disappointingly when I attempted my nap in the back seat it just wasn't happening, the suspension felt as bad as it does on my third gen with 4x the miles. The car got 25-27mpg with the cruise set 5-7 over the limit with a max of 80mph.  Most of Montana is 75-80mph, Kayla was very surprised by this, 'why so fast?' yeah she came to realize montana is big and flat and 80 is actually kinda slow. She's basically never left WA state so I allow her some grace, except for when she asked if Montana had ocean access.... that made me feel pain.

HBA is kind of an asshole, there were many times I felt I needed to intervene and did get flashed at by a number of semi's, sorry guys! I'm not sure which 'feature' was intervening on the mountain curves, but once the steering angle got extreme enough at speed (cruise at 75-80 through a suggested 45mph bend) the car would scrub a few miles per hour, unsure if that's an eyesight cruise control safety thing or if that was whatever 'torque vectoring' marketing term bs is slapped on this badboy. at any rate, the car slowed down in tight corners!

And finely, holy fuck is this thing a brick, what fuckin wind tunnel was this tested in??  I felt like I was getting thrown around worse than any of the cars I've done this same drive in over the years, up to and including a 1995 Pathfinder, which is literally a brick. The wind made me change lanes on the way back just as I got on to the Vantage bridge, I know the wind is bad there but that's never happened to me before, got the heart rate up that's for sure.

IMHO, this is the best generation legacy/outback ever built.  You should expect 500k km easily with proper care and maintenance.

7 hours ago, m sprank said:

THANK YOU to all who contributed to leaving my cooler with over 70 different local micro-brews.  Over 2 liters later... Please try the veal, I will be here all week.

 

@Enlight @BoozeRS05
@boxkita @KZJonny
@tysparks81

@silverton
@JJBerk
@SubOperator
@jaylew
@thefultonhow
@Chronuss
@Infosecdad
@JmP6889928

Thanks for the shout out buddy but I wasn't there does sound like it was a good time though!

59 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

Thanks for coming back to let us know what the root cause was, not everyone does that.

 

I get this, you trusted the mechanic because they are supposed to know better.  Unfortunately, as you found out, many of them are seriously winging it and don't know what they are doing. This is why I've gotten into doing all the work on my car, too many times they couldn't cover the basics.  

This is so true, I say this as one of those 'trusted mechanics'

26 minutes ago, Bariki said:

Yeah, the only reason I even mentioned the cause was in case it would help someone else with a similar problem down the road.

I’m not sure if a clutch job even involves removing the center bearing, but logically this is the most likely reason.

Now I just have to fix one dragging caliper and I’ll be golden…

 

the center bearing is a unit with the driveshaft, it definitely comes out.

 CVT fill procedure is not like an AT but maybe it's close? You do need to perform the relearn procedure

Hopefully it's just surface rust, soak them all in pb blaster or whatever your favorite penetrant is several times, make sure your socket is full seated on the bolt before attempting to back them out; use the shortest extension and the straightest path possible.  They're only torqued to 7nm, they essentially just hold the pan while the glue sets.

If one breaks you might get away with the just globbing a little extra sealant around that one but if you lose too many that's risky. You either drill out the broken bolt, or replace the upper oil pan; which also involves the timing cover.

When I play Forza Motorsport and Gran Turismo, i always add power last; when it was absolutely necessary.  Go full out on the suspension, brakes, and tires and the car will be a hoot to drive. As this is your first turbo car I would take it easy on adding power, things can go south real fast.

brass and aluminum are not magnetic.

That's a hard knock!  the camshafts/OCV's are likely plugged from debris causing the 11 and 21 codes.

I miss when RadioShacks were a hobbyists electronic shop and not just a storefront to sell shitty cell phones and plans.

On 6/7/2023 at 7:37 PM, CBRRICH said:

I have a 2005 legacy GT wagon MT. The ABS light has been intermittent for a few months and now it is on. I connected the "White Connector" in the fuse box and read:

C0101 (Rear Right ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery)

C0102 (Rear Left ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery)

C0111 (Motor/motor relay on failure)

It is unlikely all 3 are bad simultaneously, is there a way to clear the codes  without buying a separate ABS capable reader so I can see if only one returns so I can just replace the one item causing the light to stay on?

Most places that check for codes only have basic OBD readers that will only read/clear engine codes.  AFAIK they won't clear codes as there is some liability thing about safety inspections and whatnot.  But if it's been intermittent for a few months, and when you finally decided to check it's three things, how do you know that all three went bad at the same time? Just food for thought

With those three codes showing, I'd follow the diagnostics tree for C0111 first, both rear sensors share a joint connector from the ABSCM (the abs pump in the engine bay).

Wiring diagram for the speed sensors

You must live somewhere warm. I love my seat heaters in the winter.

Front diff is a T70, rear diff is either a 1/2" square, not 3/8ths, or a H10...or 12?  pretty sure the 1/2" square is gonna be on the four cylinder models though, the six cylinder has a beefy rear diff and is likely the H10..or 12 but I really wanna say it's a 10..  brain fried I can't remember.

Unfortunately you can't fill a CVT and be done with it.  There is a procedure to get the proper fluid level, and I implore you to follow these steps to ensure a long and properly functioning life from your transmission.

18 hours ago, amichalski81 said:

I could buy the coil pack but i have no way of knowing which coil is bad. unless I am replacing every wire to each spark plug. 

The cylinders that are misfiring are likely a good starting point, there are no wires, other than the harness connector.

Most of the cars I service come in with Superstarts that are already failing after a couple years.  I'd rather have an OE battery, and do in both of my Subaru's, and for the love of god do not put an optima in it.  Redtops are worse than superstarts.

All Subaru makes these days are wagons.  crosstrek, 5 door impreza, outback, forester, ascent.... if they have a 5th door it's a wagon IMO

I've done it both ways, the only thing you really have to watch out for is lipping the turbo inlet, and making sure you have everything plugged in.  the cam shaft sensors on the back of the heads can be a little...forgetful.

12 hours ago, amichalski81 said:

Please expand on this? Is this something  i can request them to check? the more info the better. 

i also stand corrected - it was 3 times in 7 years the one time it wasn't the ignition coil - it was the OCV (oil control valve) yet the car reacted and ran the exact same way as when the coil went bad the 3 times. engine runs with a miss, stumbles and has zero acceleration or power. 

thanks 

Not really, but if you're constantly having coils go bad it only makes sense.  The ECM drives the coils.

On 4/21/2015 at 11:12 AM, Turkeylord said:

Well, I picked one up at the parts store ( I work there on Saturdays), we'll see how it does.

 

http://i.imgur.com/6alyERl.jpg

On 4/21/2015 at 2:29 PM, boxkita said:

 

where did you get those clamps? No parts store knew what I was talking about when trying to get them.

On 4/21/2015 at 2:43 PM, Underdog said:

Those are called Corbin clamps.

 

Regarding the diff and trans, I just stick the hose into the fill hole or dipstick tube. The oil is not coming out fast enough to make the hose pop out, and the trans fill tube won't overflow like it can with a funnel that seals against it at the top.

The picture link in the first post are not corbin clamps. corbin clamps are what come with the AIG air oil seperator and I fucking hate them, they're garbage.  What came in that kit are more like constant tension band clamps, muuuuuch nicer!

That being said, IAG recommends leaving the spark plugs out while doing the initial oil pressure cranking as the compression will cause abnormal wear on the bearings. I'm working on fewer and fewer of the 05-09's, but don't they do the thing where you hold the gas pedal down; it wont start? I thought all the DBW cars were that way.

This is the first I've heard of a, potentially, factory alarm system having a remote window roll down function.  It sounds like your other car may be in valet mode?  the instructions for turning that on/off are around here somewhere...

It's probably the ECM.

This is titled P0736, but diagnostics for P0734 is the same.

You will need a scan tool to perform the diagnostics, a basic one with live data display should be able to display these things.

If the value of the accelerator position live data does not increase/decrease smoothly, replace the accelerator position sensor.

If that checks out, lift all four wheels off the ground SAFELY, start the vehicle and drive it in D.  If the speed shown on the live data does not correspond with the instrument cluster speedometer replace the front speed sensor. You can likely do this with a road test, just have someone with you watching the live data and the speedometer.

If that checks out, idle the engine and verify that the speed sensor revolution live data should closely correspond with the instrument cluster tachometer. If yes there is a fault in the TCM, TCM connector/wiring, or the transmission assembly itself. If no, it's the turbine speed sensor circuit.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Outback-25L-TURBO-5AT-XT/_54102_6023999/ENGINE-COOLING-AT-OIL-COOLER-PIPE/B13-450-06.html

Item 45174, mounts to the radiator.

Got em on! It definitely rides nicer.

On 5/30/2023 at 11:29 AM, xt2005bonbon said:

silverton, sorry for the threadjack... But you mentioned you are a Subie mechanic. Have you ever replaced the passenger side airbag for the 05-09 outback/legacy models? If yes, do you recall having to remove the dash?

\end threadjack

It has been a few years since I've actually had to do one, and I really only got to assist as I was an express tech for my time at a dealer, but I think that is one of the easier ones. Pretty sure the panel behind the glovebox is the only thing that needs to come out for access to the nuts.  It's nicer on that panel if you also remove the center console bucket and the passenger side trim piece that slots into it.