Underdog

Hmmm, I am looking to do something similar Dave. I want to put the helical JDM front diff in my 5MT and mate it to an R180 helical rear. Unfortunately, you can't put the 4.111 on the R180, so I would need to swap my front to 3.900 to match. I am looking for an '04-'05 STi R180 which is 3.900 already, then I will just swap the clutch diff for a helical diff.

I love GRP! Nice review thus far... I always liked the Wilwood kit, except for the lack of a rear caliper option.

Jeremy just got back to me to let me know they will be offering the replacement bearing at a "list price" of $80. Sure beats buying a new complete kit for $190, unless the sleeve is torn up.

I've asked Jeremy@FBP and Nick@SubaruWRXParts.com to look into it. Hopefully we will have an answer soon.

Again, in the packaging with your TSK3 kit there should have been a sticker to put on your shock tower to let future owners/techs know that the car has been retrofitted with the snout upgrade. The sticker has the replacement part number for the bearing, TSK3-B, which is available from SubaruWRXParts.com/Exeter Subaru. Since FBP is a distributor, they should be able to get the part as well.

Black LGT with black rims (polished lip) driving out of Home Depot plaza in Leominster this afternoon.

Just sayin'... it's a different color. Still have a special place in my heart for all red Legacies though.

They stopped making Garnet Red after '06MY. Your color is Ruby Red...

Very nice work!

I had the same trouble when I lost my cyl#4 ringland... very tough to separate the sarcasm (or humor, depending on how you are looking at it) from the good info. Your goals are not that far off from mine, power-wise. My engine rebuild thread may be relevant for you, since I hashed out the whole aftermarket/OEM piston thing too.

Thanks guys. Basically I am just trying to get an overall picture of the car's health. In comparison to the mechanical stuff, I don't really have the knowledge to be making tuning changes based on my datalogs. I'd like to learn, but I don't learn well from just reading forum posts unless I'm really into it. If I knew that the knock wasn't a problem I probably wouldn't even datalog at all, because I just want to enjoy driving the car. Even when I do log they just sit on the computer because I don't have a way to get information from them. One hangup is that Mike said he "locked" his tune. I haven't tried to pull the ROM to verify this, but wouldn't that mean I can tweak it? I didn't know this was possible. If I was to fix one thing (besides the knock) it would be the hesitation/stutter that the car has now, but never had before with stock or MickeyD2005 tunes. low load knock.csv

I know this was resolved on page 1, but I just wanted to post up a log and LV for others to look at. The car was dyno/pro-tuned by Mike/Tuning Alliance. The car seems very stable during pulls (I think) but I have a lot of low load, low rpm knock. Very similar to what Weitek posted above. I have noticed that when I'm on the on-ramp going through the gears at medium-heavy load I will get one or two knock events. Other than that and some part throttle stutter the car drives great. I'm looking forward to upgrading the intercooler and possibly fuel so I can uncork this setup a bit more. BTW, is there a list of what to log for people who want to do a lot of CL logging with Tactrix 2.0 and a microSD card? *edit: didn't realize my filesize was over the limit. Will take a log and post it tomorrow. LearningView_3-18-2010 6 37 24 PM.csv

This past Saturday? Not me... was getting the car tuned out at ESP, north of Worcester. No spoiler either.

I am still debating a full rev.D-F swap, or trying to splice together my rev.D bumper with the USDM bumper so I can keep my headlights and fenders. All I need is screws and bondo, amiright?

We should start a WIT alum thread...

Getting tuned at ESP this morning. Hoping to see some fellow subies rolling through.

I've got a clear schedule tomorrow and Sunday, the car is running again, and the wife will be out shopping.

It's 118ft*lbs... T9 in this diagram: http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/2446/rearsuspensionservicemaru2.jpg

Yeah, but who in their right mind would use it? I mean... I'll sell it to you for $70 Ridgeracer... half price!

Gotcha... yeah the pic doesn't do it justice, it is less than a millimeter wide in any direction. Thanks for the feedback people.

Rao, I don't get your question. You mean the little chunk of metal? I can't tell what it is but it is very small and seems like it could have been a piece of piston, although I don't know how it would've made it's way by the banjo bolt filter. Is that what you mean? There is a lot of confusion on all the different Torx varieties, even by the people who make them. I used the S-K 84231 shown/mentioned in posts #12 and #16...

This is what you start with: http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6933/img8003c.jpg 1. Remove sprocket from AVCS mechanism. This uses a T30 tamper-resistant Torx Plus bit. http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/415/img8005cc.jpg 2. Gently pry the sealing flange away from the casing. http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8906/img8006c.jpg 3. Now you can disassemble the mechanism by popping out the middle section. There are six spring-loaded seals that will come apart, but they are easy to reinstall. http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/5746/img8007c.jpg http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/5531/img8009c.jpg http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/180/img8010c.jpg The piece on the right is what bolts to the camshaft. Notice how it has a spring loaded plunger that locks into the sprocket carrier? When I pressed it a few times look what came out (no, not the nickel ): http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9746/img8011c.jpg Hopefully this means I was right and the sprocket was getting stuck in the position where the plunger engages (0* would make sense). This would also corroborate with the cold start/reset ECU evidence where the high oil pressure of a cold start was able to unlock the sprocket, but the next time it went to zero, it wouldn't recover.

I think the problem is fixed! This morning I reset the ECU and fired it up. As usual for a cold start on a reset ECU both sides went immediately to 5*. The hovered around 5-7* for about five minutes of driving and then went to zero at my first stop. However, after turning around and driving home both sides were behaving normally. I double-check the datalog and sure enough they were moving nearly in lock-step. I can only assume it was the new sprocket that fixed the problem. I will disassemble the old sprocket and post some pics of the mechanism. There were a couple other things that could have fixed it, although it is unlikely... changing the oil; blowing out the passages in the oil line, cam cap, camshaft; cleaning the banjo filter (was clean anyways); redoing the timing belt; cleaning all the ground locations; etc. However I'm going to stick with thinking it was the $140 sprocket. Like a dope I didn't mark the pressure plate to the flywheel. The new clutch only had 900 miles on it, it should wear in to the new orientation, right?

Well the pic above was the old engine... the new one is much cleaner. The most bling you find on my engine is the silver smear of antisieze on every fastener. Once that stuff gets on your hands it spreads like wildfire! I'll spend the rest of the day dressing the wires in the engine bay for my gauge install and reassembling the driver-side cylinder head so once I get the sprocket everything else is done. Unfortunately with our engines the cam cap and valve cover needs to be RTV'd in place so there is a moderate amount of scraping and prepping the surfaces.

I see that they have Torx, tamper-resistant Torx, and Torx Plus... but no tamper-resistant Torx Plus! I really hope the new sprocket fixes this problem. However I don't regret pulling the motor because it made running the wires for my STi gauge pack so easy, and I got to inspect the motor after running it for a couple months. Everything looks good so far.