Haze

My coolant actually looked surprisingly clean. Didn't bother checking with the test strips though.

Yanked the engine. Exhaust system had a bunch of oil in it, compression numbers from cylinder 1-4 respectively were 130, 100, 140, 100 psi. Turbo looks to be in good shape and the intercooler isn't full of oil so guessing I'm going to find at least a blown right side head gasket and possibly some broken ring lands and / or scored cylinders.

Is there a reason nobody is talking about Tactrix / Romraider? Did I miss something? I get that a standalone is probably a better option for a race car but for the other 99.9% of us... I got real tired of SCT's stranglehold on Ford tuning and was super pumped when I found out the Subaru didn't require another stupid tuning device that costs as much as a laptop and ends up collecting dust 363 days a year.

Haven't had time / garage space to yank the motor but I was getting tired of looking at the curb rashed black wheels. Didn't have any silver paint so figured I'd see what white looks like. I think I like it.

Pretty sure it is. The OB front subframe is mounted to the body with spacers and the motor mounts are the same so the engine in an OB would sit lower compared to the top of the strut towers than in a Legacy.

Nope, lower and further inboard. You pretty much have to be under the car to see it. Maybe my memory is foggy on what exactly ran through there originally but if you remove the ecu tray under the carpeting, it's right there.

The crossbars have Subaru stickers on them. I'm guessing they were a dealer accessory.

Let's call this the "before" shot. I decided I needed a backup so at least one would be running at all times. The RBP Legacy is a little rough around the edges but will get some love in the coming months.

Jeebuz... the somewhat rough '07 I just picked up might actually be worth putting some money into. I get that a restored 165k mile car will never be worth as much an original 56k mile car but I'm definitely thinking twice about my plans to use it as a winter beater.

Another option: I ran mine through the grommet with the ECM wiring in the passenger side foot well. It's shorter but you need to make sure your wiring won't touch the turbo or downpipe. I wrapped my wiring in split loom tubing and wrapped that in foil tape as an extra precaution.

I thought that car was wildly overpriced as well. Wasn't suggesting anyone snatch it up, just noting it's existence. You must be huge. I'm a bit over 6'5" and fit fine, even with the sunroof.

Base engine only after '09 though. Another manual '07 GT wagon just popped up for sale near me so I guess "unicorn" isn't the right term.

I'd like to have a transcript from the meeting where the decision was made to remove the option from US market LGT wagons but keep it on the Canadian cars as well as the turbo Outbacks and sedans despite them being mechanically identical and built in the same plant. Makes no sense to me.

When I saw this car for sale, I looked up the 2007 sales brochures. The Canadian one lists the manual as standard equipment across the board while the US brochure states the GT wagons got the 5EAT as standard equipment. I looked up the '08 Canadian brochure now as well and it also shows the GT wagon with 5 speed manual as standard equipment. I had never seen a 3 pedal GT wagon newer than '06 before this one. Good to know there's some out there.

Picked up this manual trans '07 LGT wagon today. I've read in multiple places that most manual wagons are '05s and a few '06s were sold in Canada but all the '07s were autos. The door sticker has transmission code TY757VWDAA so it's an original 3 pedal car. Anybody else seen another? This car looks like it was a nicely done stage 2 build at some point but it needs some love now. It's burning a crazy amount of oil, could use some cosmetic help and a couple modifications need to be reversed. Hopefully I can sort it out.

Stock bore is nominally 99.5 mm but Subaru actually used two slightly different sized pistons and your engine likely has a mix of them. I have two EJ255 blocks that each have 3 "A" bores and one "B" bore. IIRC, the "A" piston is .01 mm larger than the "B" piston. The blocks are stamped on top along the center line to identify which piston to use in each cylinder.

Is 17psi the peak number in your boost target table or is that your actual post-compensation boost target from a datalog that day? There is an IAT compensation table for boost, although I would find it odd to remove over 10% at 7°C

Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to send a PM? I recieved one and when I try to reply to it, I get punted back to my inbox and nothing shows in my sent PMs.

I have a Spec B 6 speed in my 08 with functional cruise but I bought it that way and it was originally a MT car. If you think pics of anything or a copy of my ROM file will help you, PM me and I'll get you whatever I can.

You've got a lot going on there. Fortunately a comprehensive guide has already been written. I suggest you read and re-read the "Subie newbie tuning guide" until you can recite it in your sleep. https://sites.google.com/site/asubienewbietuningguide/ I did my own stage 2 w/ 3 port BCS tuning on my OBXT with no prior tuning experience and that write up as my main resource. Took me somewhere around 50 tune revisions and I'm sure I left a few HP on the table but it runs smooth and doesn't knock. Getting your MAF scaling dialed in should definitely be a priority. I'd recommend zeroing out your WGDC tables until you get that sorted.

That's the Si Drive controller which has nothing to do with the transmission, at least on a 3 pedal car. On my manual '08 Outback XT all it does is switch between 3 different throttle maps.

There's a chance this is the same car that I saw for sale in Fort McMurray last spring. I realize these cars aren't super rare but Alberta car, grey, stick and the odometer reading all line up. If it is the same car, it has an EJ20X running on the stock ECU. What you think of that is up to you but it's something I would want to look into deeper before handing over the cash.

Figured I should update this as the issue resolved itself after I actually drove the car. I'm guessing I left something in the oil pump bypass valve when I took it apart for cleaning, causeing the bypass valve to leak until it opened and allowed the foreign matter to escape Now, I have to hope that whatever was in there didn't do any serious damage elsewhere.

Each main and rod bearing had clearance checked with plastigauge at 3 different points of crank rotation. I know it's not ideal but since I was using a new crank, I felt comfortable with it.

If I start the car normally, it doesn't take 10 seconds, the light goes out almost immediately after it fires. I briefly get a knocking noise though and I'm worried it's my new rod bearings hitting my new crank because it's firing before there's any oil pressure If I hold the throttle down (which disables fuelling) and crank for 10 seconds until the light goes out then allow it to start, I don't get the noise. Everything inside this engine was in great shape except the rod bearings which were all completely beat to hell. It has been noisy at start up since I bought it but I assumed it was just cold piston slap. Now I'm thinking there's something wrong with the oil pump but it makes good pressure once it's running so I'm kinda stumped. The pickup is a brand new KillerB so there should be no problems there.