Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

brok3n potates

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

brok3n potates's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. You caught me ! lol, no I haven't replaced the MAF yet. Didn't know if that could be the issue. Thanks for the tips, and bare with me I'm new to Subaru's and completely new to tuning as of this year. The car does have 139k miles, and it did sit for some time before I got it, and then about 6 months since I picked it up. Is it a huge concern for me though, if my AFR's, AF corrections etc are tuned properly anyway, regardless of the given MAF values ? Also why would the MAF's actual live readings be different than what I tell it to read ? ^ For example, at say MAF 1.21v, I've changed the g's at that voltage to 6.52 g's... Yet when I'm idling around 1.2v-ish, the g's reading on the dashboard of the logger state around 4-5g's... At this point I'm assuming the MAF is reading less than it should by being dirty, or there is a vacuum leak somewhere that I have yet to find... Also, I know a good tuner would get rid of all knock if possible... How much FBKC, FLKC and Knock Sum is acceptable ? I know Knock Sum can and will increment in situations such as high rpm, low load, shifting etc... But what about cruising and WOT runs, or just in general ? Also, I've been reading up on possibly altering the TIP IN values to accomodate the FMIC, both with having a bit of a lean condition on the start of tipping in (barely hitting gas), as well as kinda rich on Tip OUT... Any tips for that ? I'll link a couple of my WOT logs here, as well as a log just idling after it was driven for about a half hour so it was up to temp etc. The files are named as such for reference. wot2 32122.csv wot3 32122.csv idling 32122.csv
  2. Thanks in advance for the insight, tips and recommendations. Feel free to message me directly or comment below. 2005 Legacy GT 5MT VF52 Turbo - FMIC - AEM320lph Fuel Pump - AEM Wideband O2 - APS 65mm Intake - GrimmSpeed EBCS - Catless DP - 3” Exhaust. Stock injectors, rebuilt engine with stock parts except for Wiseco pistons by previous owner. Checked for vacuum and boost leaks. Vacuum at -18.5 to -19.5 inHg at idle, -22 inHg on deceleration. MAF Scaling much higher than typical --- Tried a more "correct" MAF scaling, and the car starts more correctly, idles fine. Idle AFC +20%, driving AFC +25% or more. Idle AFR on AEM Wideband around 15. Attempt at driving, AFR will go 16-17+ and start breaking up and the engine bucks. Tuned the MAF scaling to closer to what my car wants to run (around 5 g's at idle and somewhat equally higher in higher rpms). The car will start up, but somewhat janky upon startup, bouncing rpm for a second and running rich. AFC -20% at idle, slowly returns itself to +/- around 3-6% (even without Learned AFC). Drives down the road a lot better. But the scaling is much higher than typical scaling for these cars. I don't know if a tiny vacuum leak will skew these readings and scalings this much, but my typical vacuum readings suggest I might not have a vacuum leak, or at least enough of one to cause this ? I could be wrong. Also, previously on my stock tune with edited MAF in the same way, WGDC at 0, I had to scale for approximately 7 g's at idle, which even still, the Logger dashboard read about 4-5 g's at idle, not the 7 ish I had set in the scaling for the same idling MAF voltage. I have included 3 pictures of the MAF Scaling. Pics are labelled as such, may not be in order: -05 LGT 5MT Stock MAF Scaling -05 LGT Stock Tune - MAF Scaling changed by me to be closer to 'correct' running of my car -Someone Else's Tune - MAF Scaling changed by me to be closer to 'correct' running of my car
  3. I have had issues with misfires, I believe due to coil pack(s). I changed a couple around and I have 2 extra ones from another car, one extra sti one ? (Shorter pink boot). There’s a cheap eBay one on there now but I don’t remember at this time which cylinder I put that on lol. Guess I will have to swap for one of the others and see what happens there. I haven’t changed the spark plugs but I assume they were replaced when the engine was rebuilt, but if the coil doesn’t change it, I’ll try plugs too. Maybe injector swapping as well. I wish there was a way to test these coils with a multimeter in the way you can test resistance of sensors etc. I have read there is no way except for trying a known working one, though I have no way of knowing about these ones without digging in and swapping them out. Not so fun on these H4’s lol. I checked the ‘per cyl’ timing advance and there’s nothing awry there, only +2.11deg for cyl 2 and 4 above 3600rpm and 0 for cyl 1 and 3 (anyone know why ?) I haven’t changed it from stock. I will have to hook up my boost leak tester and see how that goes. Haven’t done much of nothing in this cold NH weather. Changed the coil last fall and hardly touched it since. Also, yes I am definitely going to start by getting closed loop operation sorted out before moving to open loop areas. Prior to that was getting afrs and compensations within reason during idle alone. Should I worry about the same closed loop parameters while just revving and holding rpms in neutral, or just while driving/cruising ?
  4. I do have some new questions as well. I have no roughness at idle, except for an occasional count of 1-3 on cyl 2 and 3 which I have read is normal (similar to occasional 'knock'). I do however have a lot of roughness (40+ before it resets) on cyl 3 if I hold the rpms around 1-2k. It does seem to clear up a bit over that or under that. I wonder what that could tell me. I would think a mechanical issue or coil, spark plug etc. would cause the issue to be consistent throughout idle to redline, but again, I'm not sure. Also I am seeing that there is a difference between Air/Fuel Sensor 1 (Estimated or calculated AFR) and my AEM AFR gauge. For example, the live AF1 will read about 14.2(+/- .4) at idle while the AEM reads 15.1 (+/- .4). Is there something wrong with my gauge/sensor potentially? Should I set the initial IAM to .5 or 1 ? This could be preference but I don't know. If I set it at 1 (which I did), will it still swing lower if there is an issue ?
  5. Haze, thank you very much for linking that guide to me. I don't believe I had seen it prior. It is very informative and comprehensible for someone getting into tuning, as I am. I have read through the entire guide, and will keep coming back to it for each different subject. I have made a few changes following the guide, but I have yet to log road time, or pulls. I haven't actually registered the car yet because I knew it would be sitting for a while. Guess it's about time. It's good to hear you got yours settled from scratch in a similar manner. I kinda understand that you'd want to maximize timing and boost, to safely just under the limits of knock and fuel, but it's all the in-between that gets even more so confusing. I do have WGDC at 0 for now. As far as the MAF goes, I did several flashes just getting the idling portion within reason. On the MAF graph tool on Romraider Logger, I am now seeing very close to 0 (+/- <1) at idle. This may be subject to change following other revisions as I move forward.
  6. Pleides, though I haven't done a pressurized boost leak test yet, I have gone around and checked all hoses. As far as I can see all are attached and I added zip ties on some vacuum lines. Also, I have gone around all the hoses and intake manifold area with starting fluid I believe, and noticed no change regardless of where I sprayed the fluid. I should note that I have about 15inhg idling, yet if I barely hit the throttle to hold the rpms around 800+, I see a more proper 19inhg. Perhaps I have enough going on to warrant a slight idle speed increase as some would with larger injectors ? I'm not sure what would cause this otherwise. I have not done a compression test, but I don't seem to be burning oil or having major mechanically related issues.
  7. Feel free to message me for quicker conversation. I picked up a 2005 Legacy GT last fall and I am finally getting around to working on it. At the moment I am beginning to tune the car from stock. I have done a hefty handful of research and have started changing some parameters. I would appreciate very much if someone could help me critique and explain what is wrong or right in my logs. Also, I'd really be interested to know exactly what parameters to look at or change for each of (or collectively) the installed mods. My biggest issue is that I don't know the 'correct' values for everything on the some of the tables, especially when there are changes made or to be made. I am using Romraider for logging, ECUFlash for editing and flashing, via an OpenPort 2.0. Here is the mod list: - Wiseco Forged Pistons (Full Stock Engine Rebuild 5-7k miles ago) - VF52 Turbo - 3" MAF Housing - Cone Filter - FMIC - Unknown UEL Headers - Unknown Up-Pipe - Unknown 3" cat-less DP - Forge BPV - Grimmspeed EBCS - AEM 320lph Fuel Pump - AEM Wideband O2 - Boost/Vacuum Gauge I am currently on stock injectors, as I need to have the other aftermarket set that came with the car cleaned and flow tested. I believe they are DW740cc but again I am not sure. Knowing the MAF needs proper scaling, I read that it is easier to scale with stock injectors so I am grateful for that. I am not looking for max power or anything crazy, just want to get it safely driving. I am aiming for about 18psi or whenever the stock injectors get near max IDC. When I brought the car home, there was either no tune or an incorrect tune. It was in limp mode, I believe, though still boosted to about 15psi (had to try it once). It would dip RPM as soon as the throttle was depressed from resting, but come back up with increased throttle. Also, it would dip RPM when coming off the throttle, and letting the idle return, though it would come back up to proper idle. I have since adjusted the Tip In slightly richer to accomodate for the extra rush of air given from the mods, and it did seem to help smooth out that transition from resting. I do still have a slight stumble in that area, but there could be a number of factors causing that. The first 2 logs are just idling with a couple different parameters The last 3 logs are idling, then holding or slowly increasing revs to about 1000, 1600, 2000rpm. Thanks in advance. romraiderlog_20220117_190411.csv romraiderlog_20220117_190018.csv romraiderlog_20220117_190041.csv romraiderlog_20220117_190220.csv romraiderlog_20220117_190421.csv
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use