Haze

The only modification on the LGT in that photo that I can take credit/blame for is the white wheels (they were black and pretty beat up). Everything else gets the "it was like that when I got here" disclaimer.

Fun game. Victory shot of the OBXT shortly after lowering the fresh motor in and a shot of the bad EJ coming out of the LGT.

Probably not the multi function stalk then. I still had power to all the under hood fuses as well. The harness under the fender is downstream of those fuses.

You're probably going to need the wiring diagrams from the FSM for this. I was able to find free PDF files for my '07 and '08. The multi function stalk is a possibility. If you can rule that out, you may have an issue in the wiring harness under the left fender that runs between the under hood fuse box and the interior. The corner markers on my '07 quit working and the problem ended up being a broken factory solder joint in there.

Pretty sure the STi BPV flange is different from the LGT so no, I don't believe it will fit.

He may get the best return by taking the time to de-mod it. Used Subie speed parts seem to be expensive in Canada (I'm also in the Edmonton area).

Sedan or wagon? There's been some silly prices paid for manual trans wagons lately and I could see someone paying $6k or maybe even a bit more. The modifications, not-especially-low mileage and cosmetic issues mean you're looking for a very specific buyer if you want top dollar though.

Finished the electrical repairs and put the interior back together. Ended up removing around half a dozen wires that weren't connected to anything at one end. Had to make repairs behind the left fender, in the hatch and behind the taillights. Wasn't happy with the wiring to the wideband and boost gauges so that all got re-done along with adding wiring for oil pressure and EGT gauges. The 0-5V and serial data outputs from the wideband had never been hooked up to anything so now I don't trust the tune that's on the car.

Your best bet is probably getting in touch with the tuner. They may have seen this before. I have a bit of experience with Romraider but it could take me hours of guessing, datalogging and internet searching to figure out what might be going on here. I would start by datalogging "boost error", "wastegate duty cycle", "turbo dynamics integral" and "turbo dynamics proportional". The turbo dynamics tables can be set to make huge changes to wastegate duty cycle if boost error gets too high. I suspect this is a mechanical issue that the ECU is trying to compensate for but can't do so in a smooth manner.

Ok, thanks. My area code is T8R1G1.

If shipping to Canada isn't crazy expensive, I'm interested in the injectors, fuel pump, VF52, TGV deletes and KillerB pickup.

Added a new crankshaft and set of piston rings to the pile of rebuild parts and did the fogs as DRLs mod while I have everything torn apart under the dash.

I believe I have this solved. The corner markers actually pull power from two different places. One when the headlamp switch is in the second position (which was working on my car) and another when the headlamp switch is in the third (headlights on) position or the park lamp switch is on. I won't write an essay here but basically if you're experiencing this issue, make sure you have battery voltage at fuse #15 under the hood and the fuse is good (mine was). Then check for battery voltage at the center terminal of the tail and illumination relay (see photo) as well as the white wire on the park lamp switch. If you have no power, there is a break in the wiring somewhere after fuse #15 which provides power to both spots. I haven't found the break yet but I temporarily ran power straight to the relay terminal and the corner markers then stayed on with the headlights. The park lamp switch still didn't work so I may have multiple breaks or my switch is bad after all. Edit: I should add, fuse #15 powers the white wire in the brown connector on the bottom side of the fuse panel. Unfortunately, that wire disappears behind the fender before branching off and coming back to power the relay.

Gutted the driver's side of the interior so I could go through all the add-on wiring. I was hoping to find the cause of my parking light issues but no luck there. Still glad I did it though. Found some sketchy stuff like the power wire for the aftermarket gauges being run through moving parts of the clutch pedal assembly.

I got the '07 service manual and used the wiring diagrams to check the headlight switch function. If I understand it correctly, pin 13 is grounded to pin 16 for headlights and pin 14 to pin 16 for the corner markers. If that's the case, the headlight switch isn't the issue as pins 14 and 16 show continuity in both the second and third switch positions. The search continues...

I finally got back to working on this electrical issue and sure enough, fuse 16 had popped. I was sure it was good before I repaired the wiring so thanks for the "triple check" advice. With the fuse replaced, I now have a different issue. The corner markers come on as expected when the headlight switch is put in the first position but when the headlights are turned on, the corner markers turn off. The park lamp switch on the column still doesn't do anything either. I'm thinking the switch has to be bad but have no idea how to test it.

If it's the same as my '08 OB, the lows stay on when the high beams are activated. Not sure why your driver's side isn't doing that.

Yes, sorry, I should have mentioned the fuses are all still good.

My wagon project has some electrical issues that eventually led me to the park light switch on top of the steering column where I found two of the wires cut from the harness and hooked up to bypass the switch (see attachment). I soldered everything back together the way it should be but the park light function still doesn't work and now the headlights don't work either. Is this part of some common wiring mod? Should I be looking somewhere else for more hacked wiring to fix? Or does a failed park light switch also take out the headlights and this was just a way to get around it? Anyone know how to test that switch?

At one point, the scrap value of the two OEM cats was more than the cost of a new 3" catless DP. Not sure if that's still the case but it can't be far off since deadbeats are still stealing them. Makes gutting the original DP kinda pointless.

The engine I pulled out of my '07 had 100 PSI on the two lowest cylinders and those had nasty vertical scoring on the walls. Not sure a 99.75mm re-bore would be enough to completely clean it up. At 95 PSI, I wouldn't count on this just being tired rings.

Didn't the 253 get AVCS (or maybe AVLS?) in '06? If so replacing the motor in an '05 would require a pre '06 motor, no?

Got my block apart and pulled the pistons. No obvious ringland failures. Unfortunately, the crank and almost everything else inside this engine is too worn to reuse. My plan to put this car back together on the cheap with parts I had laying around might be dead.

Tore the engine down. Bad vertical scoring in #4 at the 12:00 position and #2 has the same to a lesser extent. Pistons look OK from the top, gonna have to split the block to see if I can find what went south and salvage this crank.

Personal transmission preferences aside, I think it's fairly obvious that the 5EAT is holding this car's value down. I just don't see there being many people willing to drop $20k+ on a 17 year old turbo Subaru built to someone else's taste that also want to daily it.