08Spec_B

JDM blue grampus signals for 05-07 usdm/jdm mirrors. Passenger side does have cleanly repaired tabs but will work great! $300 shipped

STI option door sills $250 shipped

10 minutes ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Curious how you removed and re-installed those….? 

The seats are held together with a metric crap ton of hog rings. Just cut them in half with some cutters and pull them out with some needle nose pliers (the last picture). Then just get new hog rings and some specialized pliers to redo them! 

The Corbeau RRX finally came back in stock, so I snagged a pair and got to work installing the universal seat heaters I've had in storage for years. Hog rings can suck my nuts, but I'm glad it's all done! Now, I just need to figure out how to wire them to factory roller switches.

Also, followed a forum post and made a occupancy bypass module for the passenger seat since these obviously dont have the bladder/sensor. Just need to throw brackets on and zip tie up all the extra modules and sensors I pulled from extra factory seats befire they go in my 08 B. Will be mounted and installed in a day or two.

@cheeseenlo I do plan to do the pedal stop/adjustment in the next week or two. Was planning on this weekend but family plans came up so we'll see when I have time to get to it!

The car is up and running finally! So far I have about 100 miles on the setup and its running great. First oil change looked good and nothing worth noting on the magnetic oil plug, so the fumoto valve went back in. Idle and charging issue was been resolved after cleaning up more of the mounting surfaces on the alt bracket.  

Note, the exedy twin disk are very noisy between shifts or on decel lol. 

Got the Koyorad installed (much higher quality than mishimoto) and first startup/first bit of break in has gone great, minus a little oil leak fiasco from my stack of sandwich plates I had on. Put about 50 miles on it but still having an issue where I can't get it to idle. Going to try and idle relearn but never had to do one in the past with disconnected batteries so not sure if that'll do it. I believe my battery is getting tired, only holds 11.6-12v while driving and cranks very slowly.

Exedy twin disk feels awesome, cant wait to do a launch or two to settle in the engagement point. It is pretty noisy in between shifts or reving with clutch in but that was expected. 

Also, got the outback hood installed. I dig it, can't wait until its all one color! 

Have made some good progress since the last update. Motor has officially been dropped in, had planned to start up last weekend but my shitimoto rad decided to give up the ghost while filling up with coolant so there is a Koyo with my name on it on the way. 

More fun parts added/aquired since the last time: Blitzen black sun visors and c pillars, Greddy/Trust master cylinder cap, jdm battery and power steering covers, Liberal Albero trunk mat, STI option front strut bar and lower subframe brace, unbranded master cylinder and clutch master braces. 

Mirrors sold

@sludlowsend me a PM. I have two more headed to me in about 2 weeks, one of which is unclaimed.

Both console swaps are sold

More EU/JDM parts for sale.

EU console conversions:
-Set 1 $SOLD
     In great shape, no abnormal wear or tear. Does come with an extra rear cupholder insert since the one installed one is a little floppy.
-Set 2 $SOLD
     In ok shape, does have some scuffs on the back of the console. Silver trims could use a repaint due to scratch on passenger side trim.
I do also have the needed parts for a prefacelift swap $95 extra (glovebox, glovebox inner receiver/latch, driver knee panel).

Well worn Tuned By STI alcantara armrest $50

EU signal stalk with rear fog switch $50 + shipping

JDM folding OBP mirrors with blue grampus/winkers, blue tinted mirrors, and switch $SOLD

Haven't had much time to throw at the car, with the business and life in general, but did have a couple minutes to swap on the new custom forged CF wheel and k2 gear emblem. I ended up doing a Forged CF lower to match the rest of interior, perforated sides with non-perforated top section. More of an oem+ kinda feel.

Also finished up the last of the 3 things needed to keep the airbag light off when aftermarket seats are installed since I'll be putting some corbeaus in within the next couple months. This occupancy sensor manual bypass allows you to manually simulate an empty or occupied seat. Based on the pics im sure you can tell which was the first one done lol. The first is never as pretty. Got enough materials to make a couple so once they're tested I'll have some to sell.

@NORULZleggy I can have the led display installed, it does add a decent chunk of change. It needs power and ground tapped into the wheel and then it has a bluetooth module that plugs into your obd2 so you may also need a splitter if running an AP. 

Wheel has been sold, thanks for the interest! If anybody wants a custom spec'd wheel made, let me know. I know a guy lol

@jstuckel1 valid question worth asking! No core exchange on this one. If yours is in good shape, they're not hard to sell since they are often a little sub par this late in their life.  

Freshly built custom 4th gen steering wheel for sale. Facelift fitment but can be swapped into prefacelift with some work. Matte finish 2x2 twill CF, perforated leather sides, non-perforated top, red stitching, includes steering wheel  controls.

SOLD** $575 shipped or $550 picked up in Northern UT

The below linked video goes over the hardest part of the basic install for a prefacelift conversion, swapping connectors for cruise control.

https://youtu.be/kp_R2wKV3Dc

Awesome write up! For the switch resistors, what W rating did you use? That is the one part thats I dont quite understand how its figured/calculated. 

I'm currently in the end stages of my build with a fully built 257 and built d25 heads. The Manley pistons stated that CR was 8.5:1 with b25 heads or 8.7:1 with D25 heads, which is very minimal change. You can also use thicker head gaskets to lower CR back down if you're really worried about it.

At a bare minimum I would replace the valve seals and recheck valve lash while you are there. GSC viton seals are dirt cheap and easy to install. Once the fsctory ones heat up and get old they harden and tend to leak, which results in burning oil. All you'd need in tools is a spring compressor like the company 23 or PQY one.

Had a couple hours free and was able to finish setting valve lash, get covers all sealed up, set timing, and picked up the freshly rebuilt BNR 20g from Richard Williams. Man, I love the TIC cam bolts, I didn't even think twice about torquing them down.

Going to have to get some Banjo 90° ORB to 10 AN fittings for the chase bays oil cooler plate since it interferes with the inner timing cover with the supplied straight fittings.

Also was able to find another set of JDM option winkers, this time in light blue so that's pretty nifty. I dont need them so they'll likely be up for sale shortly. 

Price bump, $290 shipped + paypal fees if used

@blue wrenchThey still have all the clean bolt holes and the mating surfaces for flanges were left blasted so I'm not worried but thats a good thought! There's relocation kits on the market that come coated so I'm not super worried about it.

Got some evo pics for you guys ha. Mostly full interior (from front seats forward) and the car is fully caged as well. 

@NORULZleggyIt's actually already on the way haha

Ill take the block heater. Pmd

@reallyfunnymomentUnfortunately, the plastic itself is red on facelift models, not just an insert. Some decent modification can be done to a set of prefacelift and facelifts to combine them into a cleared facelift set but I wouldn't say its easy for the average joe.