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Replaced Banjo Bolt, O2 Sensor CEL?


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First off, hello and thank you all for all the resources you post on this site; very helpful. Im a new 2005 GT Limited owner as of 3 weeks ago and I love the car.

 

A quick breakdown. The car had an AEM cold air intake and magnaflow exhaust on it when I bought it. I took it in to a local mechanic to get the banjo bolt replaced (was a bit clogged) and the brakes done. Afterwards, he gets a p0032 code (Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1 heater control circuit high). The mechanic said everything appeared to be plugged in and the voltage was good so I needed a new sensor.

 

Bought a new sensor and had it put in along with a catless invidia uppipe by a very reputable shop (Six Star Motorsports in Schaumburg IL, great guys, highly recommended). Unfortunately, the p0032 code is still there.

 

I was thinking I should reset the ECU and see if that fixes it up. If not, take it to a subaru mechanic to check the wiring harness. What do you guys think I should do; does this seem like the right course of action?

 

I am not mechanically inclined but Ive done my research. Thanks.

 

-Adam A

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I know they tried to clear the p0032 code yesterday when I got the new uppipe and o2 sensor put in. The code came back immediately. Drove the car 100 miles and the CEL remained.

 

So I take it clearing the code is not the same thing as actually doing the ECU reset?

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What did you do with your egt sensor? Did you do the resistor mod.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/unofficial-05-06-lgt-2-2k-5w-resistor-up-pipe-131488.html

 

 

 

THIS ^

 

And are you sure the same P0032 code is what popped up ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I will be doing the resistor mod sometime today, didnt have time yesterday. But yes, same code, Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1 heater control circuit high.

 

After I do the resistor mod Ill be resetting the ECU and see if that takes care of the CEL. Will update.

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They gave me my old o2 sensor back and I had complete confidence in the mechanics working on my car. Its the reason I drove 2 hours just to get this done haha.

 

Higher labor late, very far, but they have a great reputation. Im paranoid as hell and only wanted some of the best working on my car.

 

I wish I could do the work myself, but up until 3 weeks ago I knew absolutely nothing about the mechanics of a car. Ive got lots to learn.

 

Hoping the ECU reset will do the trick...

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Open the hood, look on the right shock tower, you should see a small gray connector.

 

If the EGT probe is not int he new up pipe the small gray connector should be open. That's where the 2.2k ohm goes in.

 

You should also be able to see the up pipe and see if the probe is in there or they put a bolt in it's place.

 

Check that first.

 

I don't recall how the EGT probe missing can give you the P0032 ?

 

Nrw, may have some info on that. PM him.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I found that post as well. I also found this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2116702 (wrx 06). It seems that it is possible that the problem might be the harness or the ecu.

 

And Max, I got the code when I had the banjo bolt replaced and the brakes done. I didnt have the catless uppipe and new o2 sensor put in until a few days after. I was expecting a code for the egt which I will be fixing up with the resistor mod today.

 

The p0032 code remained after I put in the new uppipe AND NEW o2 sensor. I thought the new o2 sensor would take care of the problem but the code persisted.

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yea thats what I find strange, he had the code before the new uppipe.

 

so the code came after a banjo bolt cleaning and brake job...

then he changed uppipe and o2 sensor and code is still there...

 

The code is pretty much for o2 sensor only, and the egt probe missing doesnt seem right because you actually already had it before it was removed. And like max said , it shouldnt cause that code.

 

Hopefully someone else chimes in with some other insight, not sure where to even start.

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Inspect the o2 sensor wire, it may have been damaged in installation... I know this because I have done this, lol.

 

If you dont let the wire hang and spin freely while you tighten it down the wire will wrap around on itself and basically pull itself apart. Happened to me on my rear o2 sensor.. had to learn that the hard way.

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Mechanic specifically stated the wires on the o2 sensor were good... on both the new sensor and the old one...

 

He suspected the problem was in the wiring harness. But then again, as you said, it may just need an ECU reset as I have no idea if he did one or not. All I know is he tried clearing the code and it came back instantly.

 

Sammy So is the mechanic who worked on my car and many have stated that he is on of the best subaru techs in the biz! Im very confident he installed everything very well.

 

Just wish the shop was closer to me, I would take it back immediately. If I cant solve the problem I might just have to make another trip up to Six Star.

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You can reach down and make sure the O2 sensor wire is not hitting the up pipe.

 

That would not be a good thing.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Best guess would be to bring it back to mechanic who installed O2 sensor and ask for a new one, could have been doa. Its been known to happen. Warranty on the O2 sensor should be valid as you/they just bought/installed it, basically manufacturer should take the hit. But usually that code is for a bad O2 sensor. Call them up and see what they say. Its not common for sensors to be bad out of the box but it DOES happen.
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Before I do that, considering the mechanic is an hour and a half away from me, how I would I go about checking to make sure everything is good with the wiring harness?

 

Note:Also, I am not experiencing any negative driving performance compared to when the sensor was working. I am sure I am getting worse gas mileage, but Im not sure. (my display button seems to not be working)

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UPDATE

 

Tried another new o2 sensor, same code. Checked continuity of all wires, all good. Took a look at the ECM and physically, it looked fine.

 

For some reason, the ground circuit was not being triggered.

 

Im at a loss. Any ideas?

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Banjo bolt is below ecu wiring harness and near a lot of wires. Try unplugging and reconnecting the big gray plug between passenger strut tower and turbo. Or maybe a wire was nicked.

 

What did you mean by :

 

For some reason, the ground circuit was not being triggered.

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I checked that big gray plug (Im guesing the ECU wiring harness) and found that one of the wires was not plugged in all the way! It is the black wire that is in the very bottom right hand corner. I cant seem to get it back in all the way. Could this be my problem?
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Pictures at this point!! Every phone has one and everyone has a phone, get a good shot of this wire. Going to need a wiring diagram of engine harness, hopefully someone knows where a link to one is, otherwise I'll search in morning at work.

 

If they disconnected harness and bent it back it could have been damaged by becoming brittle from the heat. I'm not familiar with wiring diagram but if that wire is for your oxygen sensor heater 1 ground then it is most definitely your problem!!!

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Get another person and see if you can make contact while holding it together with your hands, of course after you have unplugged the battery to reset ecu and have reconnected it. Then see if the check engine light comes up while one of you holds it together making contact and other starts car and monitors. That is the simplest cheapest way I can think of to make sure that is the problem. But if that wire is indeed related to oxygen sensor heater signal circuit it is definitely why you have went through 2 with the same results after work was done near hypothetical problem area.

 

I am not sure how much room you have to play with but with a picture we can give you a better idea if you need to bring it back to mechanic and explain to them which I think from the sound of it they would back their work up or know how to work a soldering gun and have the right tools, or maybe you have enough slack to fix it yourself.

 

Basically an unconnected wire in that harness is not good.:

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