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How to choose an E-tune


dawkins20

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I am considering an e-tune rather than the Cobb OTS stage I maps for my stock 5th gen LGT. Looking through here, there are many proponents of Bren, Cryo, and Tuning alliance (I know infamous was one of the first here but he's on a hiatus right now.) I think it's outstanding that this forum has so much vendor support, but it leads to tough decision making. How to pick between e-tuners? Do any of them have more experience with the 5th gen platform than others? Since they all do good work, without flaming the others, who would you pick for a Stage I e-tune for a 5th gen and why? Thanks for the help!
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I think it would be unfair recommending one OVER another, unless one has had tunes from all of them, which is unlikely. You can only state your experience in getting an e-tune from a vendor - which, if this is the case, there are already plenty of posts with comments about this. Im sure all tuners get along just fine, but you could be opening up a can of worms with this thread :)
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Only stage I, but having issues with the OTS tunes. May go Stage II later, hence the desire for an etune now. I now realize that my original question could lead to some flaming and contentious responses, so I will do a little more searching and otherwise consider this topic closed, before I cause any trouble :)
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If you have an accessport i highly recommend Brentuning. He has been doing alot of etunes and has some impressive results with the 5th gen platform.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/brentuning-2010-legacy-gt-custom-tune-198652.html

 

A dyno tune will always be better than an etune because the tuner has complete control of everything. If you go etune any of the vendors mentioned will suffice. GLWS

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I can't recommend one tuner over another based on results, but I can tell you Dave at Cryotune is a very helpful guy with tons of knowledge and is fast to respond. My car was a bit of a nightmare during the tuning process with many boost leaks which he helped diagnose (IPR top mount intercooler had at least 5 leaks), turbo oiling problem which he sold me a improved oiling and filter kit to fix, and finally a bad coil which he suggested I check first. He was fast with tune revisions and answered any questions I had. I feel I got WAY more than my money worth with him.
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Don't pick an E-tune

 

 

Get a Dyno tune.

 

The consensus I've seen on here is that dyno tunes are only really worth it if you're going for big power, or, for whatever reason, can't log and do revisions. Stage 1 and Stage 2 cars are all fairly similar, so an experienced tuner (e-tune or dyno) should be able to put together a solid map pretty easily.

 

To OP - One key thing to consider is accessport vs opensource tuning. Some e-tuners only do AP, some only do OS, some do both. Same can be said for road/dyno tuners, although I think they tend to be predominantly AP only.

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A dyno tune from a tuner with equal knowledge and ability will nearly always be better than an etune because the tuner has complete control of everything.

 

ftfy.

 

A shitty dynotune will never be better than a good etune.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
If you have an accessport(not sure if he does os) , I also highly recommend Brentuning for an e-tune. Just got done with my vf52 swap with fueling e-tune with the accessport and the car has never been better. previously running ots 93 cobb stage 2. the new tune is smooth and has no issues. Brentuning also has a great response time and if you ask a question he will surely get back to you asap.
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If we are straight up recommending tuners, I'm gonna vouch for Cryo (Dave). I'm on my second tune with him, revisions are fast, tunes are safe (ran the last one for over 10k miles with zero issues), power / delivery / drivability is great, and his customer service is top notch. No AP needed for etunes so that saves you around $450.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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lol I didn't say anything, just called them and told them it stopped working. It got repaired. Some diode blew in it. they replaced it. and I was good to go haha. I think it was more like $20. if its totally fried it may cost you $300. I can't remember what the costs were.
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