chimera

Hey Dave, sent you an email to apologise for the (numerous months) delay at getting logs back to you, was in a JetSki accident and haven't been driving too sore still, hope it's not too late to get logs back to you sorry for the mammoth delay!

Dude you are a legend. Massive thumbs up for posting so many really thorough and informative how to's on various fixes on the LGT. I've learnt a lot from just reading your posts (or more to the point cross referencing parts with your pictures!) cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Removes heater unit... gains 8HP... :-)

So what's the "paid" alternative (eg: > $1 of washers) - replace the rear mufflers in order to get a better sound? If so what's available for this? Anyone got vid's / sounds they can post? Not a fan of the "hogzaust (aka "hole-n-zaust" - and no disrespect hogmeat, the idea is simple but I'm not 18 years old anymore trying to pull pussy with 60 cents worth of washers) I want the boxer rumble noise and preferably a nice exhaust note when I ring the shit outta it, but preferably don't want an annoying drone at idle or cruising. I got to drive a Lamborghini Gallardo around a local race track yesterday, if anyone can get a Subby to sound like that for < $200 they'd be a rich man lol!!! That was 550HP of pure sex on wheels. http://www.chimera.co.nz/subaru/lambo.jpg

...actually I lie. It sounds like crap. It sounds like someones just drilled a hole in my exhaust. Gonna put it back to stock. Stupid sound. I was hoping more for that boxer rumble you get with the WRX

Heres a waste of time idea, someone should design an actuated hydraulic clamp that opens / closes the "hogzaust" from a switch inside the car, especially if you have S drive :-) Done this to mine now, its back to how a subby should sound.

Dave has offered to re-work my e-tune after stumble issues on the first round of tuning. So far (at revision 3 of the re-tune) the car is responding *considerably* better than before and so far, with no stumble. That is literally top quality service - someone who actually takes pride in their work and is not happy until the customer is happy. I'll get the next lot of logs to you tonight Dave. So far, I'm well impressed by the new tune. Thank you so much!

Not always true. I am gathering this is true of some models, but not all. My '07 JDM (same as '08 USDM) using Tactrix / Canbus, does not need green connectors plugged in. In fact, plugging these in STOPS it from working. However giogio43 might be in the same boat as you, since his is also an '05 model.

you can post on the RR site they might sort one out for you

Many logging parameters are unavailable UNTIL you connect to your ECU using RR. Once connected, then enable parameters. What to log... hmmm, perhaps start first by reading the entire thread on this same forum "Knock, do you have any?"

So yes, knock can be real knock, or it can be false knock. But the ECU always err's on the safe side. IAM is a generic knock No. LV is a "point in time" snapshot. The fine learning knock correction or "FLKC" (figures in the large table in LV) show how much knock the ECU is learning at various engine load / rpm's via the knock sensor. The IAM (top right in LV) as mentioned before is a "generic" timing advance - if the ECU sees FLKC changing in alot of cells, then IAM will be lowered (eg: timing is pulled) Conversely, when IAM changes, then all FLKC values are cleared so it can monitor knock again (and so on - so IAM can get lower and lower if knock is real bad). If the engine is running on good octane fuel with a good tune, then IAM should sit at and stay at 1.0. So yes the FLKC values do change (in that they are "learn't") but you would need to click 'Connect' each time to refresh the LV. You need to run RomRaider instead and log output of the various parameters. LV is just a helpful tool to get a real quick overview of the general state of health. It by no means covers everything. unfortunately yes. i've still got a crap load to learn myself. Because there is absolutely no sensor that can categorically say "problem ABC is caused by XYZ and XYZ alone" (the sensor can tell the ECU and you'll get a CEL, but the point is the cause of that problem could be due to a number of areas) hence why we log to determine this, there are just so many variables involved (add a turbo, and the number of variables increase exponentially!)

Further information on IAM, FLKC, FBKC and timing in general for you to read here... http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic1840.html Just be aware ECU's in our gen cars IAM goes up to 1.0 (not 16 with a 16 bit ECU)

Ignition Advance Multiplier. Its a generic timing advance for the engine - timing gets pulled if problems are detected,... why? To save your engine from going bang bang. You must search these forums young Jedi... I'll give you a clue. Knock knock. Who's there? Knock Knock Who? Knock is likely causing low IAM Start by using a better quality and higher octane fuel (less important for NA, but a good start)

Your LV looks like its working fine, if it wasn't you wouldn't get any data at all. Zeros are good. Your IAM should be 1.0 so you need to sort that out first. Your car is a 3L non turbo outback? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

romraider only works with 32 bit java - in their troubleshooting guide, it clearly states to remove all versions of java first before installing, then install latest java 32 bit and proceed. I think LV 1.0 RC3 is latest here http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7397 You are logging - it says so in your screenshot. check for a CSV file that its created and open that in Excel. to make it "safer" to start/stop logging (eg: not clicking on a notebook while driving) hit the demister button. that'll kick it into action. otherwise, for a realtime visual view, click the Graphs tab at the bottom. EDIT: oh, sorry iNVAR didn't see your post above.

Got a mirror?

There's a rubber bung about 1.5" in diameter in the firewall behind the intercooler (I think only on the auto/tiptronic's) that you can use to pass the hosing through and into the cabin. A damn site easier than through the wheel arch!

on stumble, logging shows wgdc and timing drops to zero and idc drops from 75 or so to 2.85. watching boost gauge, psi drops from 18 to 12 in a split second. its like a total fuel and boost cut. heiche is possibly right, in that its going lean and cuts out - possibly intermittently inaccurate sensor voltage or mechanical issue, maybe actuator or bpv does get stuck. who knows. what's bizzare is it doesn't always happen - letting the car shift from 2nd to 3rd, or from 3rd to 4th sometimes happens, sometimes doesn't (generally won't happen if it shifts up and is above 5,200rpm's, if shifts and slightly less than 5,000rpm's, it'll stumble). I can replicate it every time if I shift myself though (tiptronic), slightly before redline (so rev's on the up shift are < 5,000rpms). anyways, dave @ cryo is onto it and analysing logs right now - I have utmost faith in him!

http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/RomRaiderFAQ#toc41 post on rr forums ask for someone to help you out - or reply to this guys as a follow up... http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9874 wouldn't have thought missing defs would cause inability to connect though - thought it would just stop you from flashing the ecu.

Means whatever port that the driver says it's using in device mgr, make sure you got that port selected in RR or ECUFlash. Yes baud rate is speed, try 9600 - although having this wrong would generally give you scrambled data rather than ability to connect so I'm speculating here. Post a pic of device mgr showing driver installed and com port info. Also, test a connection using LV I found that this worked with my car and vagcom but not ecuflash or rr, but tactrix could do all 3.

ignore the green cable. control panel, device manager - under ports does the device show its working ok? is the com port the correct port related to the driver? have you tried altering baud rate on it? you can't have both app's (romraider AND ecuflash) connecting at the same time too, use one at a time. EDIT: dude... post once and once alone. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/using-ebay-vag-com-cable-datalog-96737p31.html multiple posts of the same question won't answer your question any quicker.

Yeah bro, stock tmic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've emailed my logs to Dave after a few runs late last night. I did notice when the studder happened, the boost gauge (which I've just installed) showed boost dropped from 18psi to 13psi within a split second. I will do another test tonight where I'll go hard on acceleration through 2nd as per usual, change into 3rd but just before around the 5,000rpm's (where it stumbles) I'll ease off and pull through the rev range a little less aggressively and see if it still does it. Need to see if its just in WOT or if the ECU balances shit out if I ease into high rev's when hitting 3rd. Its almost as though the fuel pump can't keep up with the rate of gas being consumed - like a complete cut to the injectors for a split second. PITA and getting a little pissed off with it now.

Thoughts...? What interests me is "Yes, the stuttering issue has since been fixed. Stage 1 helped a LOT! Stage 2 was even better, and it is pretty much gone with a PDX e-tune." I feel that the stutter on the stage 2 tune by cryo is "less abrupt" than at factory http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2009-lgt-massive-stutter-95302p3.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stutter-fix-2009-lgti-11-87-08r-125156.html?t=125156

Exactly! That got me kinda happy because 1. I was not alone and 2. it ruled out my transmission and 3. we can potentially run logs on both cars and do some comparisons (when he's back to IAM 1.0 of course) Both car's are 2008 LGT's (JDM), however his is spec B manual mine is non-spec B tiptronic (not that spec B should make any difference) Will be interesting to see what turbo he has too, from memory mine was VF44. His IAM is crap for sure, and thats something he will need to work out first. I will find out if he has a copy of his stock ECU and perhaps remap back to stock and try it out. Will also see if I can get him to take it to the mechanic and check for sure if he has an aftermarket DP installed (unless there is any easy way of telling? at a glance I couldn't tell) Sorry haven't got the logs to you yet - every night there has been something on... got the kids tonight as the wife is out... beer o'clock...