icc2492 Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Hey guys, I'm brand new to this forum. I got my LGT about 3 months ago (early March) from a place in Houston. I've had some troubles with it, but nothing too major. I had a large crack in the radiator and had to replace that, replaced the tires with Kuhmo Ecsta 4X, and have a four corners of Raybestos rotors and pads ready. I wanted EBC pads, but I'm in Ontario, Canada for the summer and they were too difficult to get. 4 days ago I was on my way home and I heard a nasty rattling sound from the engine. I wasn't sure what to do, so I kept going, albeit very cautiously. I got to a stop light and it died. I managed to limp it to a nearby Subaru dealer thinking they'd have a good idea of what was going on. After a basic (free) look at it, they decided rod-knock, which is what my friends had guessed. Unfortunately, that's all I know; I don't know where or what exactly it's coming from, top end, bottom end, bearing, bent rod, etc. I need to get that more completely checked out. I'm in need of good options and ideas. I could rebuild the engine fairly* easily if it's a problem in the top end and the bottom end is fine. If it's the bottom end, that's be a lot more difficult, expensive, and involved from what I know. I could also just do an engine swap, but compatible engines are hard to find up here in Ontario, Canada. I had a buddy with a full STi swap available, but he sold it right before I needed it! So. This is my cry for help. I have no idea what I'm doing or what to do. What are you suggestions, recommendations, ideas from your experience? I'm in need of some teachers! Thank y'all! Ian Clark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Recommend a compression and leakdown test. Did they look at the ECU and what all the sensors were telling it? If it has anything to do with the motor mechanically, it has to come out of the car. Could be a piston coming apart, could be a burnt exhaust valve, lots of things it could be. What does the oil look like? If you have silver or gold flake, the cases have to come apart because there's bearing failure of some sort. If you caught it early, then your crank and cases and heads and rods can probably be saved. The pistons and rings probably need to go - how many miles on it? Oh and, the shop you sold it to you..... do you have a warranty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Read around this forum. Lot's of engine threads lately. You don't want a STI swap. Here's what I did last May. Mine didn't blow, I just replaced it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icc2492 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 JP, They did not look at the ECU/sensors (or didn't tell me they did). Their thoughts are a loose bearing on the connecting rod (?), but I'll find out for sure in the next couple weeks when I send it to Seven Automotive. There are no flakes in the oil that I can see, but it is fairly low. I could probably search harder for metal flakes. Right now, I'm not sure if I'll be rebuilding it or replacing it, I'll have to wait and see what the full damage is. Max, thank you, I'll look around some more. I did find another thread by Tripod4000 that you had commented on. As for an STi swap, why would you recommend against it? Too troublesome? Not reliable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 You'll need the ECU and harness for that swap. No really gain for the amount of work involved. Everyone of the experts on here advice against it. If you owned the shop and know your way around cars, then yea, go ahead and do the swap. But my wagon now has a ej257 which is the same short block as a STI. STI's have different heads and a different timing and oil valves as I understand it. It's not easy to just drop one in to a Legacy. Also when you look for a used ej255 you find they are like $2500 +, so it makes more sense to do what I did. Or have yours rebuilt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icc2492 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Ah, I see. So if I got an EJ257 short block, I would just need to use my same heads and internals (if they're still good)/get new ones? What does the EJ257 short block do for me opposed to the EJ255? Is it because they're easier to find? I'm waiting for Tyler at Seven Automotive in Toronto to get back to me with a basic quote. I'll be giving him my car in the next couple weeks I hope, then I'll know if I'll be doing a swap or some sort of rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 So, did you not get CELs when the car was dying??? if the shop did not look at the OBD2 and find out what the engine was doing, then that shop/dealership is pretty much worthless. Like I said, hopefully you caught it early enough that you can re-use your block and crank and rods. If so, get the block machined and drop in a set of forged pistons. Re-use the heads, obviously check them over and rebuild as required. So yes, chances are you can reuse your B25 heads, even if somehow they are knackered up a bit, generally can be rebuilt by any decent machine shop. The EJ257 and EJ255 are pretty much identical except for the piston dish/volume. Can lead to differing compression ratios based on what has to be done to the deck on the cases and heads, head gasket thickness, etc. The usual. Pre-built EJ257 shortblocks are very, very common nowadays because lots of people blow up their WRX/STi.... it's that simple. Supply and demand. Between eating turbos, overboosting and poor tuning, and of course the infamous piston ringland saga.... shortblocks get consumed. If you can machine your cases (read: inspect all bearing saddles and if the bores can just be honed), if the crank is true and can be re-used/polished, and if the rods are not damaged, then the majority of your shortblock is cheaply rebuild. all you will be in for are the pistons/rings, and a set of main + rod bearings. Then all the labor. And obviously the heads. And a full gasket kit with all the stuff you'll need (which includes valve stem seals which can be replaced while the heads are being inspected). And unless you're really strapped for cash, timing belt kit + water pump. But, it sounds like something is very wrong and, unless a compression test is cheap it may not even be worth it. Save the loot for the big bill later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Most go with the ej257 because it's cheaper then the ej255 from one of the dealer vendors on here. I think I put prices in my thread. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icc2492 Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 JP, I would get CELs as it was dying, but only then. If I was on the highway and hearing the knocking, it wouldn't come on. And the dealer didn't mention anything about the OBD2. I've been talking to a shop near Toronto called Seven Automotive (all the Subaru clubs around here love him) and he quoted me a brand new EJ257 short block for $2,500. I still haven't had the time to take my car to him, so I still don't know if I should go that route or just repair my current block/engine yet. Are forged pistons that important to get? I don't plan on building it up later to have gobs and Cobbs of power (haha, get it?). Also, how can I avoid this piston ringland saga? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icc2492 Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 But, it sounds like something is very wrong and, unless a compression test is cheap it may not even be worth it. Save the loot for the big bill later. What are you talking about here? The engine rebuild? What big bill will I have later...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idiot4hire Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-rebuild-155282.html?t=155282 here is my cars motor build thread just before i bought it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Ian pull the plugs, comp/leak it. Then drain the oil to check for metal. Both are CHEAP by any means. $100 for comp/leak and the drain should be free. After this you're certain to know if pulling the motor out and rebuilding it is required. It's fairly easy to have motor shipped across the border. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 if you were getting CELs, the codes are stored. Pull those and go from there. I meant that if you knew the engine was going to have to come out, save the $100 for the comp/leakdown and just use that towards the bigger bill (fixing what's broke). Read the forged piston FAQ thread, and make your choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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