thesavo Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 The fluid was weeping from the bleed screw threads even with 40 degree turn. That's not even a 1/4 turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 ^I wouldn't worry so much about that as long as it's 100% leak free when tightened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesavo Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 They seem to be. I don't like the brakes still during an emergency stop. Also I get a little more stiffness if I pump it first before braking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 I just bled my whole system. I had my son apply gentle brake pressure while I tightened each nipple. I think this is important as air can get sucked back into the cylinder during upstrokes of the brake pedal. I noted some guys smeared grease around the threads to stop this happening and I guess if you are doing it solo that would be a good idea. I followed the bleeding pattern in the Subaru shop manual (FR-RL-FL-RR) and son of a gun it worked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 (edited) Here's what I used today to flush the fluid in my Spec B. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Pressure-Clutch-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2 Hint, after your done the pressure cap can be tough to remove from the master cylinder. I use channel lock pliers to twist the cap carefully. You use denatured alcohol to clean the pressure bottle when your done. You should be able to flush your legacy with a one quart bottle of fluid. I'll bring back the unused fluid tomorrow. As said above first thing you need to do is make sure you can open all four bleeders, I had to replace the right rear caliper as the bleeder broke off. Luckily NAPA is replacing the caliper for free. You flush the system by opening the LF, RF, LR then RR bleeders one at a time until clean fluid comes out. That LF,RF,LR,RR is from the 2005 service manual. I didn't notice the page number but its into the 4000's...ok I'll go find it again. Page 4182 NOTE: During the bleeding operation, keep the reservoir tank filled with brake fluid to eliminate entry of air. 3) Fit one end of vinyl tube into the air bleeder and put the other end into a brake fluid container. 4) Several times depress the brake pedal and keep it. 5) Loosen the air bleeder screws to discharge the brake fluid. With the air bleeder tightened quickly, release the brake pedal. 6) Repeat the steps 4) and 5) until there are no more air bubbles in the vinyl tube. "7) Repeat the steps above from 2) to 6) in order to bleed each wheel. NOTE: Perform the operation in order from the closest wheel cylinder to the master cylinder. 8) Tighten the air bleeder screws securely." Edited October 2, 2020 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 I'll need to replace my master cylinder shortly as I'm getting lots of pedal travel and spongy pedal feel. I don't know if the last brake fluid used was DOT3 or DOT4 - When filling the new reservoir and performing both the master cylinder and brake line bleed, does that take care of any fluid that may be hanging out in the ABS module as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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