crafty Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 I have approx 500 miles on my new gt but noticed the following right out of the gate: - rotors are junk (warped/high spot) I hope these will be replaced with no hassle, but I am upset to have this problem. - The drivers seat is sloppy in the trank - (clunk-clunk) I am thinking about adding the clear chip prtector for the hood - any experience good or bad?? Lastly, how can I tell if my car has the upgraded alarm that they should have added?(long story) oops- one more thing when can I hammer this thing and at what rpm should I dump clutch for the hole shot (within reason - not trying to kill it) Thanks for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avishar Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 what is trank? someone a little DNRKUN?! :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Yeah, brake shake is pretty common, reproduce it to the dealer and they should turn/grind down your front rotors. Search for "brake shake" nEvAr dump the clutch, you're shockloading the transmission and drivetrain, instead slip the clutch. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwannaSportSedan Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Seems pretty crappy to lose brake disk material after just 500 miles. The discs will have to be replaced all the much sooner that way. One wonders why it has a hot spot so soon... was it contaminated by oil (even hand prints can do that) Maybe it was just a fluke manufacturing error. I'd have the rotors replaced, just to be sure. I'd be worried about cracking on a disk that is already damaged after so few miles. I have a little bit of current experience with this. I have been doing a 4 wheel brake job on my truck. The front passenger disk was ruined when the pad wore evenly down to the metal, and ruined the back side of the disc before I could get to it. (no pre-squealing, just down to the pad backing. Someone put both of the pads with the metal noise tabs on the other side. more on that in a minute...) The rears were just worn normally. However, the driver's side front was worn almost to the metal on the inside pad, and the tab was bent out of the way. the outside pad was not worn nearly as much, because the caliper was seized on it's bracket by one of the sliders. Someone did a real bang up job on the last brake job. Now the caliper bracket and sliders need to be replaced, along with both of the front discs, which were pretty inexpensive, luckily. So I waited for three days for the part to be shipped here, and it is nearly right, except for the bolt holes for the spindle. Too wide, and not deep enough, but fits the caliper and holds the pads just fine. So now it is probably another 3 day wait for another part, while the truck sits in the garage. I'd normally be riding my motorcycle, if it weren't alternating between storms and 95+ degree heat. instead I take my wife's car, and although I enjoy it, she's left without transportation during the day. Makes me really wish the cars were paid for, and I had a legacy to drive every day while I work on other vehicles. It always boils down to a matter of money, though... Back on topic, though... The moral of the story is that I would much rather someone else be dealing with this headache, but considering how well it wasn't done last time, I at least get the satisfaction that I did the work myself, and correctly. At least I didn't have to open the hydraulics, so other than replacing a few more bits than I planned, and the trials of reassembling brake drum shoes, it hasn't been that hard. If the thing were under warranty, like a new Legacy is, I'd be having the stealership repairing it, and verifying the workmanship. It does give me a new respect for brake kits. Nice clean billet or forged, painted calipers, nice new disks and pads, and stainless lines, and hella-stopping-power. I'd be doing a BBK if I had to pay for it (and could afford to), but I'd be having the dealer replace parts if the company's paying via warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 nEvAr dump the clutch, you're shockloading the transmission and drivetrain, instead slip the clutch. What's the diff between "dumping" and "slipping" the clutch? Sorry to derail.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest clawdnb Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 What's the diff between "dumping" and "slipping" the clutch? Sorry to derail.. dumping=side step the clutch slipping=just what it says, 'slipping' the clutch out slowly ....the "real" claw says so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Bring it to the dealer and see what they say. As for the clear bra, I have one and its totally worth it out in the New England. Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Dealer should take care of this for you under warranty. Once they turn/replace your rotors - also ask them to replace the pads because that's where 90% of the issue lies... material coming off of the pads and depositing itself on the rotors - bed your brake pads. Read this StopTech FAQ and then follow the other links (particularly the one about bedding in your brake pads) ... http://www.stoptech.com/faq/data/faq7.html WRT your clutch engagement process. AWD cars, and particularly full-time AWD are not designed (with a few execeptions, e.g., WRC race-prepped cars) for high RPM clutch dumps. As was mentioned, that puts way too much shock on the driveline. Remember you've got four sticky tires that are not going to break loose (typically) so that torque shock has to get absorbed somewhere. And that somewhere is in the clutch, transmission, differentials, axles, splines and hubs. The best clutch engagement technique, IMHO, is one in which you elevate the RPMs to 2500-3000 RPMs with a blip on the throttle, and then while the RPMs are dropping off the blip, start to ease out/engage your clutch and as you start rolling (forward/reverse), then add more gas as the clutch comes fully out. You'll have a tiny bit of slip (possibly) but as you get faster at the engagement process and get a feel for the engagement point, you'll quickly engage with no clutch slip. I guarantee that if you rev the engine and hold it at higher RPMs (>3000) and attempt to slip the clutch you'll definitely slip it and you'll know immediately that you've slipped it because it will stink like something you never thought you could smell from a car. Break your car in by keeping it under 4000 RPM or less for the first 1000 miles and treat it well during this time. Once you get past the break-in period, then you can start uncorking its potential. Just follow the owner's manual recommendation and you should be fine. Upgraded alarm (shock sensor) should be located under the right front passenger seat. HTH SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted August 4, 2005 Author Share Posted August 4, 2005 I should have said slip the clutch -I knpw that helps build boost as well. I welcome more comments, and about the clear bra - if you like it where did you get it? any other loose seats? (loose in tracks) I only weigh 180 Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallispec Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 search the forums for a product called 'rockblocker' -- in fact i think thier is even a vendor here by that name. THey should be able to hook up with some good deals, maybe even member discounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wukindada Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 I'll sell you my new Rockblocker partial kit for 80.00 shipped;) Toyota 6EATS .........SUCK!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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