leftcoast74 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I like where this is going... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 ^^ Thanks! Well last night I wired up a nifty little gadget thanks to defcon5 over at rs25.com. I installed the basic 50/50 AWD controlled by a rocker switch in my '93 Legacy L and it worked great! I did have to reference the FSM for 1st gen Leggies, but it was very easy to track down the correct wire and then test it before cutting. The only thing I was concerned with was after I buolt the dummy load I read the FSM for my car agin and noticed that the resistance values are slightly different (9-15 ohms) vs (10-17 ohm) But it all worked out perfectly anyway! Heres my resistor board (Dummy load) resistance was a perfect 17.0 ohms out of the wires, and as you can see I mounted my heatsinks a little differently. I even used a small amount of thermal paste to help even more. Everything was attached securely to the board using hot glue, and the back side was covered in a few layers of electrical tape and rubber mounting feet were stuck on to help with vibration and potential shorting. http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0543_zpse88b9840.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0544_zps2ab24074.jpg TCU mounting location on the 1st gens... Super easy to get too, and fairly unmistakable http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0550_zpsbf838120.jpg The white with black stripe was the wire I cut, tested it first using the procedure in the FSM and everything went smooth http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0549_zps11394c44.jpg Resistor board mounted... No problems there either! http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0551_zps2f76ec7b.jpg Drilled a hole in the center switch plate on the center console, will be adding a FWD switch eventually, thats why it is mounted the way it is. Also used hot glue again to keep the wires from coming loose or shorting on each other in the future, I love hot glue! (Until I burn myself ) http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0546_zps0336cc0c.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0545_zpscfc98f55.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0547_zps0e5007e5.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemingway Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 You, sir, are a mad genius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Haha thanks, but I'm not really... I just used defcon5's instructions for a '99 OBS and modified it to my Legacy and tastes And if you think that is bad, check out what I'm about to post up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Well guys, some more fun was had tonight with the factory electrical system of the Legacy... This time I added in an on-demand "Sport" mode, and also FWD on demand as well, oh and some other fun stuff that only pics can show... So thanks to the guys over at subaru-svx.net I became aware that the "Power" mode in the 4EAT can be activated with a switch instead of stabbing at the throttle... This is made possible by simply grounding out a pin on the TCU and voila! Power mode 24/7! But constant power mode isnt entirely desirable since the torque converter doesn't seem to lock up at highway speeds creating poor fuel economy. To remedy this I simply stuffed an 18Ga wire into pin A4 on the TCU, pin 4 on B46? (The 20 pin connector on the TCU) It should be on the side that is only missing 1 or 2 wires. (The other side is missing more) and ran that wire to a simple SPST push-button which I mounted on the center console near the shifter. And then running the other side of the switch to a ground. Easy as that... Pics... http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0556_zps799495c4.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0557_zps4475e897.jpg Now power mode can be enabled any time the car is in a forward gear, but it does get disable with the cruise set or Manual mode activated in 1st-3rd gears. Before anyone gets bent out of shape, Power mode does not create red-line shifts or destructive transmission behavior. Just more positive shifts located at more desirable engine rpms. (Under normal driving the car feels completely normal, just a bit more responsive and peppy than it would normally be. The TCU also seems much "quicker". Downshifts come on much quicker and with less provocation, no need to completely mash the car to get it to go anywhere... Another interesting point is that in the JDM and EDM, Legacys, SVXs, etc all came with a button from the factory aside from the manual button that enabled this feature, so the TCU and transmission are actually designed to be able to do this, just us in the Americas get the short end of the stick again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Well, as I said I also wired up the FWD fuse system to be controlled from inside the car... This was also extremely easy, although I may have implemented it in a rather crude way. I simply crimped some wire to spade connectors inserted into the existing FWD fuse location. I ran these wires along the OEM harness and into the cabin through a grommet and up to the center console where they are connected to a SPST rocker switch located just below my 50/50 lock switch Super easy to do and now I have about as much control of a 90's 4EAT as possible... Power mode on demand 50/50 Torque distribution on demand FWD on demand Manual mode Quick pic of implemented switches... Eventually I'm going to be making some nice decals or labels to label the switched with their functions to make them look a little nicer http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0559_zpsb7fdc9be.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Well, like I said, I did a little other work as well, (Well it was a lot more work... -_-) The previous PO had done a faorly poor job wiring up an aftermarket radio, I had already done a quick patch job to keep wires from shorting and grounding so I could get the cars electrical systems working, but this time I went to town... Cut all of the aftermarket wires out and wired in an OEM plug... This also allowed me to connect a few Subaru goodies. A factory under-seat sub from an '03? Outback Limited and an awesome and rare little display unit the does compass, speed (of sorts), outside temp, barometric pressure, and an altimeter. Both of these devises use the factory stereo wiring harness for power, sound, dimmer, etc so thats one of the main reasons I wanted to fix up the wiring under there. I've included some quick pics of the display, but note that the dash is not done, I need to grab a Subaru wire-harness adapter so I dont have to chop anything else when I actually hook up an aftermarket radio, which will not be the terrible Walmart special that was in there... http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0570_zpsbfacc409.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0574_zpsd6f76b0f.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/IMG_0576_zps8df6f4f1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Wow, definitely awesome. So now you have 50/50 awd and fws on demand!? That sick. I wish I could do that on mine and be able to have that option lol. Keep it up scientist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Wow, definitely awesome. So now you have 50/50 awd and fws on demand!? That sick. I wish I could do that on mine and be able to have that option lol. Keep it up scientist Haha thanks a bunch! And yup, total control over full lock or no lock, or auto lock of the center diff from inside the car You can do these on your car though! I know the 50/50 lock was originated by defcon5 over at rs25.com on his '99 OBS And the FWD on-demand was super simple and can be done on any 4EAT Subaru. If you are interested pm me and I'd be more than happy to help in any way that I can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemingway Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 I recently replaced my head unit and used an old wiring harness and bullet crimp connectors. Worked like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 Well, no real progress since our school's shop has been closed, but I have managed to do some driving and testing out of the new 4x4 lock... I'm no master of photography so its hard to tell just how steep that hill is, and how high it is right there, but let me tell you, it is not for the faint of heart... In fact I was amazed it made it at all. Some nice luggy tires are in the near future, but right now it is still equipped with the tiny bald all-seasons %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_0692_zpsb4760a50.jpg[/img] %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_0693_zps7395eddd.jpg[/img] %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_0694_zps9822b7d4.jpg[/img] %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_0695_zpsc2a29d4b.jpg[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 you get rid of those hubcaps, let me know.... ill take em off your hands. i have been wanting those hubcaps for my 93.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Well guys, its time to update this long-neglected thread... ALOT has happened to this little Subaru, you would never even know it is the same car... Over the summer I stripped the car of all of its panels, and stripped each panel down to bare metal. Straightened what I could, Replaced two of the doors and bondo'd the rest since I did/do not have the skills or tools to replace sheet metal. Stripped the car with a combination of methods. Most panels were chemically stripped with aircraft stripper from Autozone, works pretty good, three separate coats with scraping in between did the trick most of the time. Also used lots of 80 grit sand paper, and same 120 grit sanding disks on my $5 4 1/2" Harbor Freight angle grinder. Sanded plastic bumper covers, trim pieces and door handles with the 80 grit. http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1403_zps98d44296.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1402_zps739165d2.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1425_zps598f3158.jpg The paint and primer I used were from TCP global, 1 gallon of 2K Urethane primer with reducers and 1 Gallon Single Stage Midnight Blue Matte with reducers and hardeners, along with some filters, all for ~ $350 http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1399_zpscacc6cc0.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1518_zps7fad5f24.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1519_zps9907e434.jpg Paint was really decent, had enough for the entire chassis, door jambs etc, and all panels. Quality was good, defects were caused by my buddy and I painting it in my garage and yard, and not exactly knowing what we were doing, did use a nice gun from Eastwood which ran really well with my compressor. http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1526_zps487ba44f.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1528_zps0bae210a.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1529_zps7bd78659.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1539_zps4964ff28.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1541_zpse621d8b3.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1547_zps096adbab.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1550_zps7a728e78.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Front lip is off of an old Volvo I found in the junkyard, $5 later and a few screws later and it was on! No molding, modification needed. Side skirts are from a '00-'04 Outback wagon, cut a couple of inches out of the backs to make the length correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 That was it for work at home, but I also spent a good chunk of the summer and my internship money on go-fast parts Slowly collected parts for the turbo build and manual swap.... Its now a Turbo EJ22N/A Running 6 psi, more to come. And it is also a 5 speed and RWD with welded center and rear diffs. Turbo was actually easier than the manual swap if you can believe it. Running a original EJ22T VF11 and intake manifold on the N/A injectors and rails. (Wanted the turbo IACV), which turned out to be bad, so I plugged it and made it idle nice by turning the idle screw up slightly. I used an FXT manifold, and a LGT up-pipe with a home-made 3" Magnaflow catted downpipe by some craigslist guy with an H6 GC8 Coupe Impreza. Mid-pipe and axle back are currently stock bugeye WRX. Intercooler is from a bugeye and so is the hoodscoop, intercooler was a pain in the ass to figure out routing for the hoses, and had to take a sledgehammer to the firewall to make it fit, along with cutting and grinding the throttle body to bring the intercooler closer to the motor. Oil supply was accomplished from a $20 eBay kit that splits off of the oil-pressure gauge (Came with all the fittings and a correctly lengthened piece of stainless braided line) I did cut, notch, and have a friend re-weld the crossmember rather than buy another, and it seems to be holding up fine. Oil return was done with a NPT fitting welded into the oil pan, and copper tubing with small rubber ultra-high-temp hose to connect to turbo and oil-pan fitting. Coolant was T'd from heater core hose. So far I'm running no, I repeat NO engine management aside form the stock 2.2 N/A ECU, I'm monitoring boost and AFRs with a prosport boost gauge and AEM UEGO wideband. Boost holds nice at 6psi, I made a custom flange and used a Saab Bosch BPV which is running back to my intake pre-turbo of course. Believe it or not, my AFRs are a perfect 14.7 at low-load, cruising and idling, and under WOT they hang around 12 until about 4800 and then richen to a max of about 11.1 by redline. No detonation has been heard, even when it was fairly warm out down in Ocean City Maryland where I went for H2O and did plenty of beating on the car then stopping and lugging around in traffic, followed by more beating. Future plans for management for more boost are possibly the EJ22T 370cc injectors, and I also have old-school 5-dial Apexi SAFC and SITC (Super Air/Fuel controller, and Ignition timing controller) Also might be getting a PP6 for cheap from a friend in my school's Auto club Sorry there aren't many pics of the engine work, I was so busy most of the time trying to get it running for the 10 hour drive to Ocean City that I didn't stop to take pics Transmission was from an '03 Forester XS, also grabbed the VLSD from the same car for when I convert to 4x4 for winter mode. Used shifter assembly from same vehicle, which fit perfectly, rear shifter bushing holes were already in body, just had to pull the plastic plugs out. Holes were all there and threaded for the manual tranny crossmember as well, and I kept the hardware form the Forester which matched up perfectly. Manual tranny crossmember, front driveshaft section, cable pedal assembly, and cable bracket for tranny came from a '93 Legacy L wagon with over 300K. Bolting everything in was the easy part, I did get a little "ghetto" with the clutch which I ran the cable to the hydraulic fork, and just drilled a hole in the fork for the adjustable rod. It works fine, it just causes a very short engagement point. The only other thing that required some modification was the starter holes. I had to tap into the transmission bell-housing and drill out the lower starter hole for the larger bolt. The biggest issue was with the wiring. NONE of the wiring diagrams, schematics etc that I had for 1st gens matched what was actually on the car. I did wire up an "adapter harness" so that the factory plugs on the car and on the transmission didn't have to be modified. To figure out which wires on the car side were for reverse, neutral, and starter interlock I tested the shift-switch on the transmission using a multimeter. I wired the reverse wires to the manual transmission reverse switch, and the neutral switch wires to the manual transmission neutral switch. The starter interlock I just spliced together since the car never came with cruise control, and I wasn't worried about the clutch keeping the car from starting. The final problem that I've run into is the Exedy 2.2L clutch isn't anywhere near as strong as it needs to be, after just 1200 miles, it slips in 2nd-5th once boost kicks in, just driving around its fine. So once I get the money together I'll grab a flywheel from a 2.5RS and a stage 1 Exedy Welded rear diff: http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1573_zps028ac0c3.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1582_zps58b037e6.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1583_zps1c24e98b.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1600_zpsdfb30032.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1606_zps1929cc16.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1610_zps32271948.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1614_zpsb999af24.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1624_zps46c11028.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1633_zpsaf200274.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1634_zps2ae87017.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1635_zpsf96a309b.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1636_zpsbdd84e09.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Once I got it running and driving I threw on a set of Raceland coilovers, they are super cheap, but not absolutely terrible. Much better than some of the VW kits, they at least have independent height and preload adjustment, although the damping is terrible and there is no adjustment for it. But It needed the stiffness and I wanted to give being low a shot. I also threw on a set of BBS RXIIs that I got cheap without bolts. I stripped the centers of about 9 layers of paint, which took forever. And I stripped and polished the lips. I then painted the centers Matte white with Matte clear to help with cleaning and protection. Picked up a set of 64 refinished bolts cheap of of VWVortex, bolted everything together and threw them on a couple of hours before the 10 hour drive to Maryland. Also made a "custom" grill. Before painting over the summer I cut out the center and bondo'd the holes that remained. And just before I left I cut some metal mesh to fit, and painted it black. Epoxy'd an emblem from the front of an '08 Impreza onto the mesh and popped it in. http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1642_zpsf70f8d7c.jpg Pic from H20... Parked at our hotel, its a big thing to write stuff on the cars in painters tape so I wrote "RWD" on the back quarters, "WELD THE DIFF!" on the back, and "BEWST" on the hood http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1647_zps05b2bce9.jpg Parked next to the LGT: http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1659_zps08b4dbf0.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1658_zps421dab27.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1664_zps3dcd7406.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1663_zps90ce7617.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Broken down in Marathon Ny... Made it the 10 hour drive from Potsdam to Ocean City, Md. Beat the crap out of the poor thing Friday-Monday down there, and then made it within 75 miles of my house on the way back. Started shaking really badly and making alot of noise from the back of the car after a steady bit of "high-speed" cruising through PA behind a couple of S4s and an older 911. Shaking got soo bad I was afraid to go over 55, and then all of a sudden the car would torque steer to the left any time I got on the gas and smoke started pouring from the back of the car. Pull over and looked under the car, all I saw was smoldering CV boot and felt ALOT of heat. Originally thought we had cracked the rear diff at some point and it had leaked out its gear oil and super-heated and started to seize. So limped it to the next exit off of RT 81 and called AAA and had it towed home. Once it was home I jacked it up and got a better look. Checked the diff and the gear oil was full and clean, and only the driver's CV was screwed, so it must have been failing and I never realized it and kept driving on it. Called around and couldnt get a new shaft for 4 days or so and I had to be back to school in one, so I pulled the bad CV out, knocked the hub-stub off and bolted it in, and drove it the next 2.5 hours to Potsdam with just the one rear CV shaft Welded diff FTW!! Althought the RWD torque steer was... interesting. http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1656_zpsae9cd811.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Dude, you rock!!! Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Huh...you have been quite busy these past few months, that is some good work.how did it feel in rwd? Crazy that that's a 22e.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Lol thanks. RWD has been great, even when it was auto and N/A. Now that its manual and has some decent power its a lot of fun. It would be a lot better with a real limited slip, as the welded rear diff causes some driveability issues, but nothing too serious, you get used to it. ITs alittle low on grip with some old lo-pro 205s. Even at just 6psi I can get tire spin through 2nd on dry pavement and 3rd on wet pavement (If the clutch doesn't slip 1st) Cornering is really nifty, turn ins are much more responsive, and instead of increased throttle causing plow, it is just the opposite. Although if you over-cook it its a lot harder to correct because its very tail happy as you would imagine. And because the turbo is so peaky (full 6psi of boost by 2200) its a bit tricky to modulate throttle if you do initiate a slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Love that lip, you get that off an old 870? I got a front bumper off an 86 corrolla(not the hachi) coupe, that I wanted to that exact same thing too, was going to basically cut the bumper in half tab it up and mold it to the 90 bumper that I have but what you did makes it alot easier and it looks Damn good...I love these old legacys they look amazing when some good body work is performed. Good job and you live up to your name kookoo...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Thanks! I'm not sure what Volvo it was off of, just a random one in the junkyard near me. I was just strolling through and saw it and was like "Huh, that looks like it might fit and look pretty decent" So I pulled it off, and held it up on a 1st gen in the junkyard and it fit about as good as possible so I grabbed it, I think I paid a whole $7 too And lol thanks, the name actually comes from a Beatles song "I am the Walrus" but yeah, I guess I'm a little bit nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Found it: '87-89 Volvo 760 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c3/1987-1989_Volvo_760_GLE_sedan_%282011-11-18%29_01.jpg/800px-1987-1989_Volvo_760_GLE_sedan_%282011-11-18%29_01.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 That's awesome, I am going to be looking for one of those..car looks great that way, I see you had to trim some sideskirts too..did you cap the ends so it isn't open? Everything you are doing -turbo (I'm going high compression) to that is how I saw my wagon as it was sitting in a dennys parking just before purchase, my lady told me I was nuts for doing this, but hell I had an extra 22e and the car cost me a grand total of $400 with blown hg's and oil ALL over the motor...but it ran and everything worked including the sun roof... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kookookachew Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Haha exactly! Thats the way to do it, I got my little L for next to nothing, and just went from there. Its taken a lot of work, but work I don't mind. And the more work I put in, for the most part the less money I spend. And btw, high-compression boost seems to be working great for me. Aside from notching the subframe and welding in an oil return into the pan, its been bolt on and go. More boost will require actual management but at 6psi this damn car is a whole new machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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