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Tuning in Queens?


TheMahFromTheU

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I would not start or drive that setup without a base map from a reputable tuner on there.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

 

Wow not even a start? So i gotta flatbed this car around town? That's crazy...

 

I guess I'll talk to some of the shops mentioned in this thread and see who fits the bill.

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Also I would consider a valve body upgrade to go along with the extra power. You also have an automatic, so I would suggest an ATF cooler, ATF Temp Gauge and Redline High Temp ATF as well. This will all be a good matchup with the upgraded motor.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

 

I'll look into these recommendations, I dont plan on killing this car and launching it, won't be high boosting or anything - maybe 25psi tops...

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25 psi?

 

That sir is pretty damn high boost in these cars!

 

I dont know much about the 5eat, but the recommendations that mike made are solid from what i do know... at the very least, the valve body upgrade. I knew a couple people with auto lgt's that tried to get around it, and ended up doing it.

 

Rule fo thumb with go mods... if there's a cheaper/easier way out, it's likely the wrong way. lol

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25 psi?

 

That sir is pretty damn high boost in these cars!

 

I dont know much about the 5eat, but the recommendations that mike made are solid from what i do know... at the very least, the valve body upgrade. I knew a couple people with auto lgt's that tried to get around it, and ended up doing it.

 

Rule fo thumb with go mods... if there's a cheaper/easier way out, it's likely the wrong way. lol

 

The gentleman working on my car has seen higher on a LGT my year 25psi peak tapered to 20-21psi seems ok in my eyes due to what I'm doing and not sure why all the heat over the VB mod - it will get done but not now as I hear I have to break the motor in... It seems like you think ima jump in and do 100mph off top as I get in the car.

 

Also not sure where on my list you find anything cheap my guy - guessed you missed the list of mods I wrote down :rolleyes: This thread is informational for me to understand if the car can be driven after the install of new motor, and turbo back exhaust.

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Right... But why would you do such a nice build and cut it short? Eh, to each his own. No worries man!

 

Not cutting it short, the motor has to be broken in - once that happens I will alert ClimberD as we already have an arrangement in place and ill probably get the ATF cooler as Mike.P recommends.. Not sure I want the ATF gauge though to monitor it - I'm trying to keep it to 3 gauges max.

 

Boost, egt, and oil temp

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There are several ways to deal with loading the basemap before firing. One is that you can tow the car around as you suggested. Keep in mind, this isn't as bad as it sounds if you have AAA.

 

If you'd rather load the map at your mechanics shop, you need to get an Accessport or a Tactrix, either of which is a good idea for a modified car. In which case any tuner should be able to email you a base map.

 

Your final option is to arrange for a local tuner to come by your mechanic's shop with his laptop. No idea what kind of success you will have with that, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

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There are several ways to deal with loading the basemap before firing. One is that you can tow the car around as you suggested. Keep in mind, this isn't as bad as it sounds if you have AAA.

 

If you'd rather load the map at your mechanics shop, you need to get an Accessport or a Tactrix, either of which is a good idea for a modified car. In which case any tuner should be able to email you a base map.

 

Your final option is to arrange for a local tuner to come by your mechanic's shop with his laptop. No idea what kind of success you will have with that, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

 

I'll see what makes sense. Most likely I'll have to tow my car to a shop where a base map can be loaded and drive home. I had no idea going this deep would be so involved.

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I'll see what makes sense. Most likely I'll have to tow my car to a shop where a base map can be loaded and drive home. I had no idea going this deep would be so involved.

 

Why would you tow your car to a tuner?

 

As I stated above and the previous poster also said, have the shop who is going to do your final tune send you a basemap (you will need an Accessport or a Tactrix cable to get tuned eventually at your tuner anyway) and load on the basemap at the shop who is building and installing your motor.

 

We don't tune at our shop but have loaded tons of base maps for clients when we've done work beyond stock to their cars.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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Boost, egt, and oil temp

 

If you're going to have three, EGT and oil temp are lagging indicators and not indicative of real time health, unless you're beating on the car repeatedly in a short period of time like at the track. For a daily driven car, you are MUCH MUCH better off with boost, wideband AFR, and oil pressure gauges.

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I am a big fan of oil temp and trans temp for an AT. I may have a little skewed opinion since I am a bit more track based than hard street driving.

 

Another thing to remember is that all gauges are relative. You install the when the car is working well. Note the positions and if there is a change from where it normally runs, that is when you have an issue.

 

Mike

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Never heard of them, didn't even know there was a Subaru specialized tuner in Queens. I'll google them.

 

I dont know if there a specialized Subaru tuner but my buddy had them install a new turbo injectors exhaust and a tune on his sti and he had nothing but good thing to say so.

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So if I understand correctly I'll need to own either a AccessPort or Tactrix cable anyway, so when everything is installed whoever is putting the motor together and isntalling it can load the base map for me.

 

Why would you tow your car to a tuner?

 

As I stated above and the previous poster also said, have the shop who is going to do your final tune send you a basemap (you will need an Accessport or a Tactrix cable to get tuned eventually at your tuner anyway) and load on the basemap at the shop who is building and installing your motor.

 

We don't tune at our shop but have loaded tons of base maps for clients when we've done work beyond stock to their cars.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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If you're going to have three, EGT and oil temp are lagging indicators and not indicative of real time health, unless you're beating on the car repeatedly in a short period of time like at the track. For a daily driven car, you are MUCH MUCH better off with boost, wideband AFR, and oil pressure gauges.

 

I've read the opposite - if tracking your car then you need Wideband AFR, oil pressure. Yes this will be a daily driven car so I'm looking for 3 gauges that makes sense but I may opt for the STi gauge pack after all...

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So if I understand correctly I'll need to own either a AccessPort or Tactrix cable anyway, so when everything is installed whoever is putting the motor together and isntalling it can load the base map for me.

 

Need to? No. Probably should? Yes. A Tactrix or an AP allows you to access the ECU to flash a new tune and for logging and other health inquiries to the ECU. I assume that your mechanic does not have one of these on his own to do the flash (despite AZP being a pretty darn full-service Subaru shop and providing this service). So either you need something or your tuner does.

 

If you are getting e tuned you need something to talk to the car yourself. If you're getting protuned though, the tuner will probably have a way to access the ECU for the flash on his own. However that doesn't help you monitor engine health going forward. You won't be able to log or check/clear codes or take a Learning View snapshot, etc. And again, if you don't have the hardware then he has to be together with the car to do anything with his hardware (including that basemap we've been talking about).

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I spoke with the guy that is putting my motor together his boy has a shop and is charging $450 to tune the car. So it looks like it's all coming together, cause I don't plan on changing anything on the car once it's done - except maybe the jdm front bumper.
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Well if he has a boy with a shop that tunes, that sounds wonderful!

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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Try these two:

 

M.R. Performance

84 New York Ave, Westbury NY

516.280.7211

http://www.mrpbuilt.com/

 

M.R. Performance works in association with Visconti Tuning in CT

John is the Master Tuner @ Visconti and tunes cars out in Westbury to.

Tell him Mike with the 3.6 H6 sent you.

 

Visconti Tuning

191 Post Road West, Westport CT

203.856.9946

http://www.vtune.us

 

 

I talked to Ryan at M.R. Perscitus... Seems like cool doods, he invited me to check out the shop. Thanks!

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