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96 legacy L starting problems


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Hi Guys, i am new to the site, but have been around some of these forums before. Always a lot of good information and experiences to draw from. For starters; i love my legacy. I have owned it since 1999, has only about 135,000. fairly low miles, but has gone through my wife and 3 daughters. Currently my third daughter drives it back and forth from high school. I am going to send it to college with her, this coming fall (that is if i can figure out some of the little problems).

I am having problems starting it after it has warmed up. It happens maybe once a week. You drive it somewhere to a store and then come out and it wont start. After it has completely cooled down( maybe an hour or more), it will start. It cranks over just fine. I changed the coil just last week, but that didnt solve the problem. Fuel pumps are almost $400, so i dont want to just change it to eliminate it, but if that is the problem then i can. Anyone else have similar problems or have any ideas? Ecm, maybe?

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Not sure, but when you tried to start, any action?

Clicks, dimmimg of lights etc.

Sincerely doubt it's the fuel pump. It wouldn't change operation after the car has cooled. (Replacement pumps are @$100. You wouldn't need the whole assembly).

W/O further info, at the moment sounds like a sticking starter solenoid.

Attached is a general diagnostics

Starting diagnostics is too big to add here.

Here is link to fsm.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Use the 97 Legacy, go to diagnostics , then on board diagnostics, then starting.

O.

Diagnostics General Diagnostic Table .pdf

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I am having problems starting it after it has warmed up.
.

 

it is probably the ECTS, electronic coolant temp sensor.

if the computer thinks the car is cold when it is really hot, or vice versa, it will send the wrong fuel air mix to the cylinders. (you may be able to get it to start by holding the pedal to the floor, but i'm not sure.)

 

there are 2 temp sensors, a one wire unit for the dash temp gauge, and a 2 wire unit for the ECU. they are both located on the coolannt cross over pipe under the the intake manifold. (follow the top rad hose to the crossover pipe, and then follow it back under the intake. the sensors are on the passenger accessible from the rear of the engine.)

 

you can test this theory by dumping cold water on the sensor when it will not start.

 

good luck.

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Thanks guys for the replies. It does crank over nicely, just wont fire up. I am never there when it happens, so i was thinking i could pull a spark plug off and see if it has spark. Usually takes an hour for it to cool down sufficiencetly and then it will start right up
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Fuel pump relay, hmmmm. Possible. I put a new crank position sensor on last year. That actually showed up on the check engine light code.

It did it again today. My daughter came home for lunch, and when she went to leave, it would not start. only cranked over. She came back in the house and called me at work. 5 min. later she went out and tried it and it started right up. I am never around when it does it. I am more frustrated than her.

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With relays being fusible its hard to tell...there are two relays under the steering wheel...I can't remember what the other one is for maybe main inside door lock..but the fuel pump relay is green I believe. I would take the cover of and locate them, turn your ignition to hear the relays. You should hear two relays open.

 

There is a post or two around here that has a relay bypass thread to check for that..

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Check what Kenny said. Crank Position Sensor. My car did the exact same thing. $24 part, easy to replace. Until I could get a new one, (only a day), I poured ice water on the sensor to get it to start.

 

I almost forgot. 1 year before that went, I had the same symptoms and it was the coolant temp sensor. (The one for the computer-not the one for the gauge)

 

Note: I never got a check engine light on either failure

RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles
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ive seen the fuel relay issue on other types of cars before, was frustrating until we found it. last time i dealt with it was my ex wifes 07 chevy truck. ended up switching the relay out with one that was next to it, then her truck had no issues. the relay worked for the door locks, just didnt like the fuel wiring apparently.
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  • 1 month later...
okay, just an update. I have changed the engine coolant temp. sensor, and the fuel pump relay. It has not fixed the problem. my daughter called me this morning and said the car would not start 15 minutes after she shut it off. an hour later it started right up. What is their next to do? I keep thinking fuel pump. Whats next? any ideas?
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Hello;

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a fuel pressure gauge, these are on sale for twenty bucks. Check the pressure, should be 36psi. If you clamp the return line, should read about 60psi. I serviced my pump and found the sock (filter) was nearly plugged solid and the filter under the hood. A fuel pump repair kit for these run about ninety dollars or less. This is usually a sign the pump is on it's way out. Also check the computer for stored CELS, Steven.

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If you need to replace the fuel filter oem is@ $27, aftermarket goes down from there.

Did not see an oem part number for strainer, but 3rd party varies from $4-$15.

I would also check for a loose or cracked IACV hose.

Go to previous link for FSM. There are complete diagnostics for engine starting and mostly everything else.

Do the simple things first.

 

O.

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Ok, did it again today. started up 5 minutes later, this time it had an engine code (check engine light) showing. Checked it out, and it said it was the crank position sensor or P0335. I changed this a little over a year ago, and it did not have starting issues then. is this related or is this just a fluke and it just happened?
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Well it did it again, and i wasn't around to do anything again. The code was definitely for the crank sensor. I was able to replace it for free, because i had changed it a little over a year ago, and it was still under warranty. so we will see what it does now.
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  • 3 weeks later...
only way to get mine to start (98 legacy l wagon) is with starting fluid

 

check your fuses.

 

it may be a bad fuel pump.

 

any check engine lights?

 

a bad cam sensor will prevent fuel, but it should throw a code.

 

a bad fuel pump will not throw a code.

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