natoli4 Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Mike, you sell two different rear links from AVO on your site. Legacy and Outback. question is....I have a legacy suspension on the outback, which rear links should I run? I currently have Perrin which do not have an outback, legacy specific rear link. Please advise! thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 If hitting with an LGT then I would try the OB links (which are longer). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natoli4 Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 10-4. ordering now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natoli4 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 So installed my new AVO endlinks this morning made for the outback and unfortunately they didn't help the problem. Still hitting. I'm guessing it is still hitting in the same spot but need to get it back up in the air to see what's up....Grinding the rear control arm to clearance it is looking better and better as I've already invested in upper control arms as well. Was thinking that the Whiteline lower control arms ($500) may offer the clearance everyone needs or the megan rear lower arm ($200) may work as well...or the grinder(free). Feedback anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natoli4 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 The AVO ones are much longer BTW, actually pretty close to hitting the upper control arm. I can't win. Again. don't know where its hitting so it could be somewhere else now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 If the sway bar is hitting the lower control arm there should be paint missing from the bar where it is tapping. Your problem seems somewhat complicated by the fact that the car is an OBXT running LGT suspension. Max OBXT (stock suspension other than the Hotchkis bars and KB links) does not hit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natoli4 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 KB here I come. Yes, complicated and not a common set up. Anyone want to buy a set of Perrin or AVO Outbacks end links? Ha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subakook Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Happy to say that i'm having no interference or fitment issues with my Hotchkis sways. My setup: 2006 OBXT Legacy wagon springs w/KYB Struts Stock rear endlinks Perrin Lgt Front endlinks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natoli4 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 after looking at things my guess is that when the bar is used in conduction with the AVO rear mount reinforcement which sets the bar back say 1/8" or so that little tweak pulls the bar back just enough to create contact. I'm gonna try one more set of end links which I think really are not the issue and if it continues I guess try another rear sway all together. anyone wanna chime in here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I would have to see it. Sorry. Yours is a "new" issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dug-e-fresh Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 My '09 spec.B is doing this as well, only had 28k when I noticed it. I bought it with the Adco sways and AVO brackets and what I think are stock endlinks. By the looks of things, they have been rubbing for some time. Previous owner installed them around the 24k mark. OP, did you ever find a solution? Anyone else with a suggestion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natoli4 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 gonna try another set of end links this weekend and then if that doesn't work try a new bar. it may be that my rear shock is blown. The more I investigate the less I know. this may require a trip to Infamous to lay his golden hands on as I'm tired of guessing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 It looks like longer endlinks may be a fix for the issue but it's hard to tell without seeing the suspension loaded. I do feel that the reinforcement plates have made the issue worse be pushing the bar rearwards more. I actually have the opposite problem with the WL HD adjustable RSB on my wagon. The bar end is hitting the axle, WL is shipping a replacement bar though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natoli4 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I have the Avo outback specific links in turned down all the way as I'm running legacy struts and they are very close to contacting the Upper Control Arm. These only really work with the outback strut bodies. So I have two sets, AVO outback and Perrin legacy and i'm still hitting. gonna try the stock outback links this weekend and see. I think that the issue lies else ware to be honest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 I'm not going to say that Hotchkis parts for cars I haven't worked on are crappy, but I CAN say that Hotchkis sway bar kit for a 370z is CRAP. The holes of the clamps that came in the 370z Front Sway Bar kit were too small, shearing off threads on a sway bar clamp stud on my friend's 370z when we bolted them on. Hotchkis did play their part in sending me a replacement clamp with proper-sized holes, but I still had to invest 2+ hours of my time the other day to properly rethread the front sway bar clamp stud that their product messed up. It could have been bad luck or it could be a symbol of their quality, but when your paying big bucks for a product they better damn well make sure it works before they send it to you. They did not do that in my friend's case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Ummm... If you could tell the holes were too small why did you force them on and strip the studs? Why not drill them out larger? Sounds like someone was over anxious and caused undue damage rather than stop. Just playing devils advocate. A clamp is not a sway bar. Hotchkis is actually known for sending out the incorrect clamps with bars. Not sure why or how it happens so often, but in over 300 sets of LGT bars we had made and sold over 1/2 had the incorrect clamps in the boxes. One phone call each production run and they supplied more than what was needed of the correct clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.Catalyst. Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 I totally agree with Sprank. Hotchkis taking care of wrong parts packaged with the bars is a sign of good customer service - nothing less. Shit happens, but those vendors/manufacturers who step up to make it right deserve no discredit. I'm still thrilled with my Hotchkis bars I got through the last Infamous GB. I wouldn't want any other option out there today for this platform! My spec.B [#163] Project Thread with Pictures Get CryoTuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Ummm... If you could tell the holes were too small why did you force them on and strip the studs? Why not drill them out larger? Sounds like someone was over anxious and caused undue damage rather than stop. Just playing devils advocate. A clamp is not a sway bar. Hotchkis is actually known for sending out the incorrect clamps with bars. Not sure why or how it happens so often, but in over 300 sets of LGT bars we had made and sold over 1/2 had the incorrect clamps in the boxes. One phone call each production run and they supplied more than what was needed of the correct clamps. The tip of the 370z Sway bar clamp studs are tapered. We lined up the brackets and the holes appeared to fit, so we didn't find out there was an issue with the clamp holes until we were finished with the air gun. Their sway bar kit was expensive and that is fine but for expensive products they need to play the part on their end of making sure the products fit before sending them out. It could have just been a 1 in 50 chance that happened to go to us but I'm just sharing my recent experience with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 You should not be using impact guns on sway bar clamps. You should not be starting any nut with an impact gun, that is asking to cross thread. I can absolutely understand the frustration of finding out your new go fast parts do not fit properly or do not contain all the necessary pieces to properly install. But that dos not excuse improper install technique. I broke LOTS of bolts as a kid working on my dads race cars. It used to drive him insane and he actually called me "broken bolt" at the track for a good year. But... I learned a valuable lesson in proper technique and torque. I was lucky in that I started working the pits for dad at 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 The tip of the 370z Sway bar clamp studs are tapered. We lined up the brackets and the holes appeared to fit, so we didn't find out there was an issue with the clamp holes until we were finished with the air gun. Their sway bar kit was expensive and that is fine but for expensive products they need to play the part on their end of making sure the products fit before sending them out. It could have just been a 1 in 50 chance that happened to go to us but I'm just sharing my recent experience with them. As Infamous said, why on earth would you be using an impact gun on that bolt? -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 You should not be using impact guns on sway bar clamps. You should not be starting any nut with an impact gun, that is asking to cross thread. I can absolutely understand the frustration of finding out your new go fast parts do not fit properly or do not contain all the necessary pieces to properly install. But that dos not excuse improper install technique. I broke LOTS of bolts as a kid working on my dads race cars. It used to drive him insane and he actually called me "broken bolt" at the track for a good year. But... I learned a valuable lesson in proper technique and torque. I was lucky in that I started working the pits for dad at 7. Hotchkis is actually known for sending out the incorrect clamps with bars. Not sure why or how it happens so often, but in over 300 sets of LGT bars we had made and sold over 1/2 had the incorrect clamps in the boxes. The gun I used was on a low torque setting and we did start the hex nuts on by hand, so we thought all was well. I agree I should have pressed the clamps in all the way first to make sure they fit. It is just frustrating though that the clamps they sent did not fit correctly. If the studs had not gotten damaged, I still would have had to go out and buy a dremel to fix their faulty clamps. If it wasn't such a prestigious product, this wouldn't have been an issue with me because I would have felt like we still got an average deal for what was purchased. I also find it odd that 150+ sway bars they shipped to you had clamps that didn't fit? This tells me they do not put effort in checking their products before they send them out. The car comes in, you have a certain amount of time that you set aside for the routine install, you spent the time jacking the car in the air with all tools laid out, and then while you are under the 3,000lb vehicle you come to find their surprise showing you that the $500+ you just gave them was an exchange for a product that doesn't fit what it was made for due to the negligence of taking all but a few minutes to inspect the clamp-holes with a bolt or gauge to ensure proper fitment while produced in the assembly line. Like I said before though, I am not typing this to justify that no one should buy hotchkis products. It's possible we just drew the short straw but my first impression with this product was not a positive one due understandable reasons. I just hope can you see this ordeal in my set of eyes though. If you were there with us you would have agreed it was a very frustrating situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Devils advocate again... Hotchkis makes bars for hundreds if not thousands of different cars. Pretty easy to get clamps mixed up. In the LGT bars we had made, they put in WRX clamps and bushings. Right brand car, wrong model. Even more frustrating when you have to open 600 boxes to inspect clamps and bushings. But that is how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.