pleaidestar Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 That's been going on in my 95 for a couple years now, hasn't affected anything like the battery or alternator. It bugs me but I have been through the entire harness, what I can see of it anyway and haventfound any shorts or anything. Its a mystery to me why it does that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snederhiser Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Hello; Go to the only sticky we have for the 1st gen. Click on Notes & Tips, then Tech Articles. You will see a 1992 FSM manual listed, download this. There is a section on the cruise control. The green connectors are for a running test, the fans will come on. I would not keep these connected together, Steven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 still haven't had time to take the kick panel apart to disconnect the dtc wires (that's what I'll call them) but I seem to have an issue, about a month ago it rained really hard here in fort lauderdale, and the water was about as high as the cv axle nut on my wheels, well I decided to pretty much fly through the water, and then later that day when I went to start my car again it would sputter everytime I went from 1.5k to 4k rpms, later that night it stopped. And now it has done it intermittently since that day, any morning after it rains it will do it for close to 5 minutes and then it will stop, if it's a little colder than usual it will do it also. I honestly don't know when the whole ignition system was serviced last but regardless I was going to do the msd coil upgrade and the ngk wireset since they're about 30 bucks on rockauto. I thought maybe it's doing this because possibly the crank position sensor got wet or something? What do you guys think could be causing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoo73 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 It sounds like moisture somewhere. I'm not sure how to check without just inspecting electrical plugs and wires. One thing to do when you put the connectors back together and when putting plug wires on use some dielectric grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 It sounds like moisture somewhere. I'm not sure how to check without just inspecting electrical plugs and wires. One thing to do when you put the connectors back together and when putting plug wires on use some dielectric grease. I did check all the connections and I couldn't find anything obvious, however I replaced my spark plugs and voila! the car stopped stumbling like it did before, never thought the spark plugs could do that, i always thought if they crapped out they'd be misfiring the whole time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 So far I love this wagon, but I feel like it needs a bit more go. My local u-pull-it yard ocasionally has second and third gen legacies and some foresters, and I was wondering if i could use a set of injectors and/or some other parts from an ej25d or an ej251 on my ej22 to give it some more juice, i don't have the $$ to rebuild and bolt on a turbo and the whole nine yards so i thought there could be not so pricey things to up the performance a bit. anything you guys would like to share? btw i have searched (and still searching) for things such as compatibility but all i've found are heads and piston compatibilities and that's not in my budget (not yet anyways...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 haven't updated the thread for a while, so here we go. i recently purchased some front seats out of a 98 forester s and installed them on the wagon because they feel so much better and the bottom part is more adjustable, only small downside is that they sit just a tad higher, so now i can hide stuff under my seats haha http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc403/Mk2thg92/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_100221_zps87031e7d.jpg you can see the difference between the legacy seats and the forester seats here (ignore the plaid shifter boot it's no longer there) http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc403/Mk2thg92/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_103601_zps8638ed22.jpg and this was the best picture i could take that shows both seats in. http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc403/Mk2thg92/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_114509_zps7ce818c5.jpg also got a stock wrx turbo set up for dirt cheap, all i need to put it on is the oil feed and drain lines and intercooler couplings. would also like to upgrade my clutch to something that handles power a little better than a stock replacement would but it's becoming impossible to find one. http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc403/Mk2thg92/Mobile%20Uploads/20140403_233659_zps3238db15.jpg and a quick picture i snapped the other night at the gas station! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 Passing by to update again. Had the clutch replaced with an exedy OEM replacement which felt awesome, I was making the tires chirp almost every time! Also solved one of my oil consumption problems, it was my pcv valve that was bad. But the guy that did my clutch noticed a "metal plate" leaking oil behind the flywheel... I didn't know what it was until recently, anyways I had him replace the rear main while he was under there, and I had a friend send me an oil separator plate that he never used. Now here comes the most recent headache. Two weeks ago I pull into my job and I smell nothing but burned oil, turns out the input shaft seal on my trans went bad... Soaked the clutch in gear oil and now I have a mean gear oil leak plus a slipping clutch that isn't even 15k miles old. This is what the plan is: Since I finally got a garage, I'm going to park the wagon for a while and daily my recently acquired 96 328i, and proceed to address EVERYTHING on the legacy. I'll be replacing the motor mounts and trans mounts, might even rebuild the 5mt, install the turbo, (oh yeah, after collecting parts for a month I have everything I need except for a wideband o2 and a boost gauge), replace nearly every bushing, also shifter bushings because I've been missing second and going in fourth instead.... I'm also debating on getting the head ported and getting cam regrinds done to squeeze a little power out, lightweight flywheel and pulleys as well. Basically I'm trying to make this a fun to drive car, and then taking care of the body work. If you guys can shine any light on this please do! PS: I've slightly betrayed the forum since no one ever answers or reads my thread, so mods could you change the name to "ihadthe147's shagwagon on boost build"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 What year wrx tmic is that? You might have to shave the throttle body to get it to fit or bash in the firewall if it's an '02. A lightweight flywheel is probably overkill. Delta Cams is a good place to send your cams to get reground. Maybe some 22T cams would suit you pretty good. Are you going to cut a hole for a hood scoop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 What year wrx tmic is that? You might have to shave the throttle body to get it to fit or bash in the firewall if it's an '02. A lightweight flywheel is probably overkill. Delta Cams is a good place to send your cams to get reground. Maybe some 22T cams would suit you pretty good. Are you going to cut a hole for a hood scoop? Not sure what year the tmic came out of, I was going to buy a scooped hood from an ss/tw, sadly the one I'm gonna get has that sweet purple on it but oh well. Yes I've been told about the tmic not fitting, I'll see how I can make it happen. Why would the flywheel be overkill? Also thinking of switching to the push type clutch system since my trans might have to be replaced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 Have there been any known gains from the 22t cams on the 22e? I've just never heard of them being used Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 I've heard of people using them when they boost their 22e since the cams are turbo specific. Search bbslegacycentral for more info since I am just repeating what I have read in the past and can't really comment on specifics. I just think a lightened flywheel isn't for me since the clutch might be more jerky and the power gains might not be worth it for the price. Also a lightened flywheel will cause CELs in WRXs but I don't know if it would do anything to a 1st gen. Your trans is already the push type clutch, it is the turbo transmissions that are the pull type so if you go that route keep in mind you'd need to install a hyrdaulic clutch slave cylinder and get a new pedal assembly as well as a wrx type flywheel and clutch. That is what I am doing as I have a 1st gen tleggy 5MT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 Hey guys, quick update: Over the winter I decided to change the direction of my build. After my input shaft seal blew out I had to speed up the process on getting my e36 on the road and thus putting the legacy to the side FOR A LONG TIME. So I decided to go with 25d heads, got group n mounts all around, decided not to run the 02-05 wrx tmic but instead I'm currently still trying to source an 06-07 wrx/forester xt tmic. I'll be running a knock off hks ssqv bov, and also running a cheap eBay 3 inch turbo back exhaust. I had a machine shop work on the 25d heads (that I only got for 100 bucks) and tap a fitting for the oil drain line. Also got new piston rings put on just because, and I also had them reassemble. Basically every gasket and seal was replaced. The only ones that haven't went on yet are: up pipe to turbo gasket, turbo to downpipe gasket, throttle body gasket, and the o rings for the coolant crossover pipe. Also while it's been down I bought some headlights with retrofitted projectors so I don't have to blind people with my hids anymore. Sometime after the transmission gets bolted in I plan on removing the front bumper and installing the outback fog lights, and also I'm gonna have to end up cutting up the hood to drop in a first gen OBS scoop. Bodywork is still on hold until I magically find a relatively rust free wagon to butcher up for body panels. I'll post some pics of the progress from winter until now whenever I find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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