iNVAR Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 Your car is not happy with you. It's also probably got issues that you aren't aware of, So I'm the only one that thinks his car is broken? I wouldn't say for certain it's broken, but certainly worth looking into pulling a log or LV at least, especially since his other thread mentions a burning smell of some sort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 You can get 800 HP out of 2 liters, for not very many miles:eek: So what does 2.5 get you? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 ^ 800 / 2 = 400 * 2.5 = 1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 I'm with mwiener your car clearly has some issues... Also your cars an auto 4 banger its not an m5. Don't expect it to be one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted December 7, 2012 Author Share Posted December 7, 2012 A turbo that has usable power at all rpms? Is this guy serious right now? Who said all rpms? God do people actually know how to read? I'm referring to the fact the top end of the power band has a massive drop. You floor the car in the right situation and it just sits reving the snot out of it. So either buy a TD06-18G or go buy another car and get off this forum. it's not 1k of unusable power, it's 1k of power after the peak. Of course it's going to feel like less since the rate of acceleration drops off so much faster, but that's why shift points exist, because at 5.5k you have more power when you upshift to a lower rpm when the turbo is beginning to do it's thing. Would you rather have a turbo motor that's designed with an much better power range and the car costs $10k more? Doesn't take 10K to deal with something like this. Again, check yourself. You're sounding like every other dumb car forum reply. "Don't love the car, sell it!" God man. It wasn't a bad design, it was a conscious decision by subaru to make the car more appealing to the masses. They chose quick response and low end torque while sacrificing high end. Instead of complaining about it, buy a bigger turbo. Learn to read. See below, in bold, my question! I'm running stage 1 ACN and I cannot help but notice the car just falls on it's face around 5.5-6.5K. Is there any way to fix this? I hate the power band. This morning I dropped it, revs spike, and car just sits there until I reach red and shift to the next gear. It's as if I'm better to treat the car like it has a 5K redline. Why is the map lowering boost close to red? I realize everyone is going to say 'protect the motor' but I'm not buying it. It should run 14-15psi till red. We have a BOV to protect stuff on shifts. Thoughts? I think what we're all forgetting here, is that rob-2 is used to honda's where they don't have useable power till 6k rpm to redline. Flat,dead spots or drop offs in the power band is considered bad designs. This is a GT car, not a base 4 bannger accord or camry. I was expecting more power delivered in a performance zone. Let's not forget all their boosted motors WRX/STI suffer the same problem. I'm not a subi fan boy, I actually think I could build a better car. That said I'm looking for a reasonable solution. Stage 1 was a nice improvement. Subi should have delivered the car this way. However 5.5-6.5k is still nearly useless. Watch the speedo it slows down. I'm not looking to drag this car, I'm just looking to get better performance. So we're all on the same page. Stock there is approximately 40% drop off in power between 4k and 6.5K http://pictars.com/users/rallispec/graph.jpg From Cobb themselves. So to say this all again, I'm looking to remove the drop off on the back end of the power band. And the reason? It really bothers me the car performs better between 3-4.5K than under full throttle at 6K. Badge says GT on it. Want it to feel that way. I'll throw some money at it for fun, I don't want an 800hp car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 All you need is an intake and a MBC, no tune required and you're good to go [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Go ahead and get the kind of turbo that will give you monster power up top around 6k rpm. Then you'll be complaining about the car around 2800 rpm saying "Badge says GT. Want it to feel that way in low RPMs. I do most of my driving at low RPMs. What a crappy car" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Perfect Curve? http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/5250Performance/FMTDyno.jpg My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Perfect Curve? http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/5250Performance/FMTDyno.jpg wahhhhh, i have no power below 3k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Wahh... makes more power at every rpm than stg2 My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Perfect Curve? http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/5250Performance/FMTDyno.jpg not bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 agreed but OP will complain unless he can draw his own power curve and apply it to his car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 He needs the new variable drive Procharger My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 true dat, he needs to build his own heads. That'll get him what he needs or wants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 He needs the new variable drive Procharger What turbo are you running ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Gt3076 My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Your mod list is scary close to mine, I need your turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robitrice Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 "I'm not looking to drag this car, I'm just looking to get better performance." stop driving above 5.5K rpms if you want better performance....people have told you the solution to the problem....larger turbo but with that you will sacrifice some mid range power as the TQ curve shift to the right. Goodluck i cant wait to see what you do!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 So we're all on the same page. Stock there is approximately 40% drop off in power between 4k and 6.5KI have to be a stickler here and point out that there isn't a drop off of 40% in power between those RPMs. There's a drop off in torque which is why you feel it. In conclusion, get a slightly larger turbo. Because as others have pointed out, get one too big and we just know you'll complain about no power at lower RPMs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RabidWombat Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 You're confusing power and torque. Torque drops, HP stays very flat. This actually makes the car much easier to drive quickly. http://www.allpar.com/eek/hp-vs-torque.html With a NA motor, the torque is flat, meaning that you produce maximum HP near the redline and ONLY near the redline. As soon as you shift, you lose power. With the Subaru turbo design, you get maximum HP across a wide-band. In a NA car, you shift at redline, because the HP drops as soon as the RPMs drop. In order to get maximum performance, you need a close ratio gearbox so that you can hold the motor near redline. A wide powerband allows for good performance with a more widely spaced gearbox. If Subaru had choosen a larger turbo, you would get more HP in the 5k-6.5k range, but the car would be slow below 4k rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 i ran 13.8 with stock everything and gutted cats with my efforts of tuning on mt 05 5 eat. if you want to keep the pull throughout the rpm range you at least need injectors and possibly fuel pump. and definitely tune. the srt-4 is the same so is the wrx sti and audi 2.0t. they all have the boost taper down with more rpm. is the car poorly designed ? well yes and no. its got the same engine as the sti but less output. could they of made it just as fast ? sure why not but for what ever reason they want the sti to be the fastest on their lineup. but again its a different story. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Go ahead and get the kind of turbo that will give you monster power up top around 6k rpm. Then you'll be complaining about the car around 2800 rpm saying "Badge says GT. Want it to feel that way in low RPMs. I do most of my driving at low RPMs. What a crappy car" Funny thing is though when you WOT the car you're rarely sitting at 2.8K. In the auto I'm driving, revs will jump right out of the peak power band and boom, problem. Perfect Curve? http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/5250Performance/FMTDyno.jpg Yes, just about I like what you've done. Don't need all that power though. I have to be a stickler here and point out that there isn't a drop off of 40% in power between those RPMs. There's a drop off in torque which is why you feel it. In conclusion, get a slightly larger turbo. Because as others have pointed out, get one too big and we just know you'll complain about no power at lower RPMs. You are correct, I mispoke. TQ has the massive drop, HP is about 10-15%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 maybe you should go for a ride in another lgt to compare ? i woun't say they fall on their face but the pull is flat. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 maybe you should go for a ride in another lgt to compare ? i woun't say they fall on their face but the pull is flat. In all the performance cars I've driven, they pull strong till just before red. So when you're really pushing the car hard, red to red gear shifting the car stays in the 'ideal' power band. In this car, you fall out of that at the top 1k of revs. It doesn't need a drive with another car to know, look at all the dinos. I'm actually strongly considering selling this car in the summer and buying the Acura I should have but the exwife had to own a subi. The power curve they make: http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/435756258_9ekSt-XL.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 In all the performance cars I've driven, they pull strong till just before red. So when you're really pushing the car hard, red to red gear shifting the car stays in the 'ideal' power band. In this car, you fall out of that at the top 1k of revs. It doesn't need a drive with another car to know, look at all the dinos. I'm actually strongly considering selling this car in the summer and buying the Acura I should have but the exwife had to own a subi. The power curve they make: http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/435756258_9ekSt-XL.jpg http://mrdaps.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/t-rex.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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