1st oil change

[JBLU24]

so 3,000 came around and it was time for my 1st oil change- did it myself since i have a shop........so i decided to check the oil before i drained it- there was barely a drop on the dipstick! hope i didnt screw nothing up but just a heads up- check your oil frequently!!

 

btw- car feels much smoother n maybe even a bit quicker now- guess its happy

[evil_O]

...just a heads up- check your oil frequently!!

 

Checked at every fill up.

[melayout]

Send in an oil sample for analysis to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ to be on the safe side and to see how the oil is holding up in your car.

 

You'll get a report like : http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12734

[BatChips107]

im 1000 miles over my oil change... and i drive hard in 95 degree weather everyday haha go ahead.. judge me

[kevjam79]

I am having trouble determining which side of the dipstick I should be reading. The front side of the dipstick is reading much lower than the back. Is there a reason for this? Is it better to check the oil level when hot or cold on the 2.5 GT?

[D-2.5-GT]

its always better to do an oil check on a cold engine, much more accurate reading.

 

I find myself having to check several times before i am confident. I usually check the front and back each time just to be sure as well. Sometimes it can be tricky.

I did find the oil low on occation in the first 10k, but since then its pretty stable. Maybe 1/2 qt. at most between changes (4-5k on Mobil 1), lately none though.

[evil_O]

its always better to do an oil check on a cold engine, much more accurate reading.

.

 

I have always been told the exact opposite. Measurments on a warm engine are better and account for what is in the engine and what is left over for the pump.

 

In fact here is something that I found real quick like on the net:

 

 

1. Park the vehicle on level ground and apply the handbrake.

2. Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature.

http://www.2pass.co.uk/oil.gif 3. Turn off the engine. Wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil pan.

4. Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean with a dry cloth. Re-insert it fully.

5. Remove the dipstick again and check the oil level. It should be between the "H" and "L" marks. If the oil is below the "L" mark, remove the oil filler cap and pour recommended oil through the opening. Do not overfill. or you'll be burning it off, creating unwanted exhaust smoke. Worse, it could blow an oil seal.

6. Recheck oil level with dipstick.

 

 

 

That's it. The oil level in the engine has been checked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have also heard the opposite of this as you SHOULD check your oil when the engine is relatively cold. Makes ya wonder.

[D-2.5-GT]

Looks like the answer is check it both...for the best of both worlds...

[melayout]

There are 2 arguments for checking cold and hot oil.

 

For the cold oil, I think that since the oil is not affected by thermal expansion and the majority of it has settled in the oil pan I will get the "minimum" reading and so I know that the oil can't be lower than that.

 

For the hot oil, I think that since the oil is spread around and is affected by thermal expansion, I will get a true reading of the oil level at operating temperature or the "maximum" reading.

 

And I check both, the cold oil before I goto work and the hot oil at every other fuel stop.

[evil_O]

There are 2 arguments for checking cold and hot oil.

 

For the cold oil, I think that since the oil is not affected by thermal expansion and the majority of it has settled in the oil pan I will get the "minimum" reading and so I know that the oil can't be lower than that.

 

For the hot oil, I think that since the oil is spread around and is affected by thermal expansion, I will get a true reading of the oil level at operating temperature or the "maximum" reading.

 

And I check both, the cold oil before I goto work and the hot oil at every other fuel stop.

 

This is what I have started doing as of this morning - before reading this post

 

Yesterday when I was getting the lifter noise, I checked. As we all know at this point, the reading was low.. not off the stick but around the L - I just may not have allowed enough time to let her sit.

 

I then added a half quart, lifters quieted and the reading was almost to the F line... somwhere between the half and full.

 

This morning I check with a cold engine before I came to work. She is a tad under a nat's a$$ of the F line.

 

I find it interesting that a half quart makes such a big difference. I was not OUT of oil - luckily... but this seems significant to me in some ways.

[StringFellow]

Checking oil levels after driving the car is next to impossible. The dipstick (when inserted after driving the car) is covered with oil on both sides and won't give you a accurate reading. Let the car sit for a while and check the oil levels then. That is why there is a cold and warm marking on the dipstick. One side of the dipstick will most likely have oil down most of it (this is where the dipstick touches the sides of the tube) and the other side should give you a valid reading. If the dipstick shows low, after only 2 or 3k, I would be concerned.

[evil_O]

Checking oil levels after driving the car is next to impossible.

 

I guess we are going to have to agree to disagree on that one.

 

I would not recommend getting your car to operating temp... jumping out, popping the hood, and checking the oil level. I would however, suggest ONE valid method is letting the engine cool for ~5 minutes on a level service and then checking.

[StringFellow]

I guess we are going to have to agree to disagree on that one.

 

I would not recommend getting your car to operating temp... jumping out, popping the hood, and checking the oil level. I would however, suggest ONE valid method is letting the engine cool for ~5 minutes on a level service and then checking.

 

Well, I have found that checking the oil level at a service station isn't as acurrate as checking the oil level after the car has sat for 2 or 3 hours. By letting it sit for a while, I can get a more accurate reading every time. And I also can see trends easier after it has sat.

 

Don't get me wrong, checking the oil level at a service station or after sitting 5 minutes is fine, but to check and document oil consumption, etc., sitting idle for a few hours is bet IMHO.

 

If I check my oil every afternoon before leaving work, I can look at the dipstick once and get a reading. At a service station (after driving home) I have to check the dipstick multiple times and "estimate" the level. It all has to do with the oil splashing up the tube where the dipstick slides into. Until that oil drains back into the engine, you get that residue on the dipstick and it might skew the actual level of oil.

 

The whole point of all these posts and their ways of checking oil levels.....check your oil often! I think we can all agree on that statement!

 

-S

[phuzaxeman]

im 1000 miles over my oil change... and i drive hard in 95 degree weather everyday haha go ahead.. judge me

 

 

see if you can make it to 10,000 without a change. and remember to keep redlining your car to ensure proper breakin. good luck!

[evil_O]

Well, I have found that checking the oil level at a service station isn't as acurrate as checking the oil level after the car has sat for 2 or 3 hours. By letting it sit for a while, I can get a more accurate reading every time. And I also can see trends easier after it has sat.

 

Don't get me wrong, checking the oil level at a service station or after sitting 5 minutes is fine, but to check and document oil consumption, etc., sitting idle for a few hours is bet IMHO.

 

If I check my oil every afternoon before leaving work, I can look at the dipstick once and get a reading. At a service station (after driving home) I have to check the dipstick multiple times and "estimate" the level. It all has to do with the oil splashing up the tube where the dipstick slides into. Until that oil drains back into the engine, you get that residue on the dipstick and it might skew the actual level of oil.

 

The whole point of all these posts and their ways of checking oil levels.....check your oil often! I think we can all agree on that statement!

 

-S

 

Agreed!

[robbie12]

Learnt from my Subaru senior technician not to put Synthetic in there. I waited 15kM on my WRX before I tapped into using MOBIL 1.

 

The car burn the living crap out of it.

 

In fact the technician had an STI pull in with a burnt engine. The chick never bother to check her oil level. Her boyfriend was putting in MOBIL 1.

 

SOA recommends you put DINO.

 

I have to top mine off every 2.5kM. About 1 QT. Thought about swtiching back to DINO but he told me that it most likely will continue to burn it.

 

Should have just stuck to DINO all the way.

[Ed_T]

Learnt from my Subaru senior technician not to put Synthetic in there. I waited 15kM on my WRX before I tapped into using MOBIL 1.

 

The car burn the living crap out of it.

 

In fact the technician had an STI pull in with a burnt engine. The chick never bother to check her oil level. Her boyfriend was putting in MOBIL 1.

 

SOA recommends you put DINO.

 

I have to top mine off every 2.5kM. About 1 QT. Thought about swtiching back to DINO but he told me that it most likely will continue to burn it.

 

Should have just stuck to DINO all the way.

 

Maybe the M1 was cleaning up the mess your dino left stuck inside.

[melayout]

robbie12,

 

What oil weight are you running?

 

If it will burn anyways then there is no harm in switching to dino and seeing if it works.

 

Check www.bobistheoilguy.com forums.

 

Read the forums and for the oil consumption I would suggest you do an Auto-Rx treatment and then switch to a good dino like Pennzoil.

[robbie12]

robbie12,

 

What oil weight are you running?

 

If it will burn anyways then there is no harm in switching to dino and seeing if it works.

 

Check www.bobistheoilguy.com forums.

 

Read the forums and for the oil consumption I would suggest you do an Auto-Rx treatment and then switch to a good dino like Pennzoil.

 

I really don't know the weight. Like I said I was running MOBIL 1 which cost me about $25.

 

You are right about it burning no matter what. Most turbos do conusme so. I would not chance turning to DINO.

[Chappy]

robbie, you should know what weight your putting in..5w30 is recommended. are you using a crush washer? Could you be leaking? Is your rear bumper black from burning oil?

[robbie12]

robbie, you should know what weight your putting in..5w30 is recommended. are you using a crush washer? Could you be leaking? Is your rear bumper black from burning oil?

 

So sorry. I didn't know you meant that. I think of it as grade!!!

 

SOA recommends 5w/30 but the senior technician told me to go with 10w/30. Since I live in CA, the weather for the most part is warm/hot.

 

Good question. I asked him about that. My WRX was checked and looked over very hard at my 30kM tune up. He told me that there were no leaks. As per the bumper being black - the answer is no. Obviously you get black soot build up in the tips of your exhaust pipes but that is normal. He told me that buring oil was normal. Topping it off with 1qt every 2.5kM is normal - the key thing being is that do not wait for the oil change. Keep checking periodically.

 

I change my oil every 5kM which he told me is fine as I am running synthetic.

 

Dont know what you mean by crush washer.