Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Help me plan out my suspension swap


BarManBean

Recommended Posts

  • Moderators
...BC Racing Coilovers is a good compromise @ $1000. Plus you get height adjustablity which removes the need for the saggy-butt spacers... You can even set your car to have a forward rake. They also come with front camber plates (up to -2.1 degrees), and adjustable shocks.

I've been thinking about it a lot and am going with konis based on the fact that they seem the most rigorous for a DD. I don't reallly need the height adjustability and would keep the wagon at stock height if I could do so while also stiffening the springs a bit. I can't do that, so I'm going with the next best (affordable) thing--epic springs (not willing to spend the cash on jdm pinks at the moment). Camber plates would be nice though :)

 

The Whiteline LCA & ALK kits are good, however, they will change the turn-in feel for cornering, as well affect the self-centering aspect of your steering (it will be less).

Noted, thanks.

 

Replacing the steering rack bushings will firm up your steering quite a bit, cheaper than replacing the steering column with its builtin damper.

again, thanks.

 

Replacing the shifter bushings with Group-N bushing will give the shifting a more solid feel.

I have a 5eat :)

 

Replacing the rear arms (Whiteline KTA124) will help the back end feel tighter. For me, it meant the rear of the car felt more connected...and reduced the tendency to oversteer.

This sounds like something to look into down the road a bit. I think I'll probably end up doing just the konis / springs right now and will get an alignment. At another time I'll do a bunch of whiteline bits--probably KTA124, KTA113 (RC/BS kit), new LCA bushings...ummm, maybe that's it. Again, another day I think.

 

 

Using solid RSB/FSB endlinks will tighten up the feel of the swaybars. Ideally, you would replace both. If you have adjustable bars, use the softer setting until you get the hang of it. UTube is full of video of Impreza improperly setting this and wrapping the car around some inaminate objects when the car oversteers instead of understeers.

I have both sways replaced with KBs, rear set on soft--will leave it that way until I get used to the konis.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, nice catch hicksta, 10 bucks beats 15. If you look up the bolts that you would use to replace the strut mount bolts on advanceauto/oreilly/etc, you'll be paying about 10-15+ PER BOLT.

 

Yeah, I have a Cobb FSB and a Perrin 25mm solid rear...the solid rear on the soft setting when paired with my hollow front is more than enough. I don't think I'd be comfortable setting it to full hard to be honest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
It'll be tightened up a little more this weekend...KB solid endlinks going on to replace the avo adjustables....heheh

 

I like the kartboys. The first time I installed them I didn't have the right washers on hand and I didn't have the spacers. The second time I didn't mess around and had plenty of both. Having the larger-outside-diameter washers and spacers to ensure everything lines up great is important. Once you have that covered they are awesome.

 

If you bought your ELs new they should come with all the hardware you need.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the kartboys. The first time I installed them I didn't have the right washers on hand and I didn't have the spacers. The second time I didn't mess around and had plenty of both. Having the larger-outside-diameter washers and spacers to ensure everything lines up great is important. Once you have that covered they are awesome.

 

If you bought your ELs new they should come with all the hardware you need.

 

Yeah, they have everything, got them from leo's FS thread, included a set of spacers. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

What's the story on pieces that will allow me to get my alignment dialed in?

 

Do I want to put parts on the create increased static camber? What needs to be added to get additional 'adjustability' that might be wanted when mildly lowering the car?

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

camber plates on the front, the whiteline alk (adds caster and a bit of camber). The kc124 for the back, although, you get -1 in the rear on stock parts.

 

Unless you go to smaller diameter springs, your tires will hit the springs before you max out the camber. Also, extreme camber settings can cause excessive wear on the inside edges of the tires. Rotating side to side and crosswise alleviates this somewhat.

 

In a previous post, you debated the lca bushing replacement. I'm suggesting you do it, as well as the rest of the bushings on the LCA. do them all at once and get it over with.

 

As for other parts, you need to evaluate what your goals are. Many of these parts are wasted unless tracking (road or autox) your car. In some cases, the changes will radically change the handling behavior of your car. If you are the only driver and ok with added level of awareness required when street driving, make the change. Otherwise, consider the other drivers and uses the car will see before making the mods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Thanks, boxkita. I want to do the bushings and just get them over with, like you say. If I can pull it off I will.

 

As far as changing the feel of the car a lot, will the BS/RC kit (KCA313) have a big impact? I thought that was more to keep things the way they are prior to lowering the car...?

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how much drop are planning on? I dropped 2+ inches, so the bump steer kit was a requirement. As to how much difference it will make, I actually cant say. I did all the front bushings at the same time, so stock to full whiteline.

 

The change in how the car handled, turned, and felt was radical. I actually had to relearn/undo some bad habits I had picked up. I find the wander on rutted roads (ruts from heavy road traffic) a bit disconcerting, especially if my attention strays. I've become used to it, however, when switching between cars I still take a few minutes to get back into the groove, so to speak. Its not horrible, however, if you are a cup of coffee and a cellphone type of driver, you'll hate it.

 

I also had the http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KCA334M kit done. Which, I think, had the most effect on the handling, at least, at the track. If I was not tracking the car, I would have skipped this. Others may have differing opinions.

 

Changing to the whiteline (or other) bushings will stiffen up the suspension and transmit more road noise/steering wheel feel. There are ppl in your area who have made these upgrades, so it might worth your time to get a ride in one or more cars. If possible, drive one around the parking lot to get feel for it.

 

If you are doing the fronts, do the backs too. I skimped on the back ones, and did them later. The KC124 kit, for me, was a dramatic change in how the car handle high-speed reducing radius corners (a feature on a local track). It also tightened up the feeling of stability in agressive lane change manuevers.

 

Motor mounts, transmission mounts, differential mounts will tighten up the feel, too. The is probably more noticeable in a MT, rather than AT. As it removes some of the slop in the powertrain. I used Group N bits for most of these. I would suggest these after you did eveything else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just wanted to throw in a big +1 on group n LCA bushings... I got group n for the rear bushings and whiteline for the fronts (fronts were too expensive I believe.) Replacing those bushings was all I did at the time and the car feels just slightly more solid on hard cornering, I think they would be great as part of a larger upgrade though.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
how much drop are planning on? I dropped 2+ inches, so the bump steer kit was a requirement. As to how much difference it will make, I actually cant say. I did all the front bushings at the same time, so stock to full whiteline.

 

The change in how the car handled, turned, and felt was radical. I actually had to relearn/undo some bad habits I had picked up. I find the wander on rutted roads (ruts from heavy road traffic) a bit disconcerting, especially if my attention strays. I've become used to it, however, when switching between cars I still take a few minutes to get back into the groove, so to speak. Its not horrible, however, if you are a cup of coffee and a cellphone type of driver, you'll hate it.

 

I also had the http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KCA334M kit done. Which, I think, had the most effect on the handling, at least, at the track. If I was not tracking the car, I would have skipped this. Others may have differing opinions.

 

Changing to the whiteline (or other) bushings will stiffen up the suspension and transmit more road noise/steering wheel feel. There are ppl in your area who have made these upgrades, so it might worth your time to get a ride in one or more cars. If possible, drive one around the parking lot to get feel for it.

 

If you are doing the fronts, do the backs too. I skimped on the back ones, and did them later. The KC124 kit, for me, was a dramatic change in how the car handle high-speed reducing radius corners (a feature on a local track). It also tightened up the feeling of stability in agressive lane change manuevers.

 

Motor mounts, transmission mounts, differential mounts will tighten up the feel, too. The is probably more noticeable in a MT, rather than AT. As it removes some of the slop in the powertrain. I used Group N bits for most of these. I would suggest these after you did eveything else.

 

Guh, I could easily drop another grand on whiteline bits if I wanted to, lol.

 

I'm putting epic springs on, basically the least amount of drop I can do aside from pinks while still firming up the springs a bit. The drop is somewhere around 1", give or take.

 

I've done a couple of beginner track events (cone courses and such), but nothing major. To be honest I'm not even sure I completely understand some of the behaviors you are referring to. I guess I'll figure things out as I go, for the most part--getting some rides in other cars is a great idea.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guh, I could easily drop another grand on whiteline bits if I wanted to, lol..

 

My original plan, before grenading the stock block, was a full whiteline upgrade. After replacing the engine, I'm doing a staged upgrade. Those bits are damned expensive.

 

I'm putting epic springs on, basically the least amount of drop I can do aside from pinks while still firming up the springs a bit. The drop is somewhere around 1", give or take.

 

I'm not an expert on Whiteline or dropped suspensions, so my comments are worth almost nothing. In my case, I knew how much I wanted to drop it. I contacted several shops who dealt with track cars (AZT comes to mind) and asked for opinions, and I asked Whiteline. In the case of the KCA313 kit, I seem to recall the drop to make it worthwhile was 2 inches. Its your money, so you might want to do more due diligence than this.

 

I've done a couple of beginner track events (cone courses and such), but nothing major. To be honest I'm not even sure I completely understand some of the behaviors you are referring to. I guess I'll figure things out as I go, for the most part--getting some rides in other cars is a great idea.

 

Most of the behaviors I was describing only come into play when you are driving the car hard (on a track, for instance). The rest of the time you wont notice them, unless you get into an emergency situation (when you reacting quickly and expecting the car to do so at an expected rate). The front end changes you're looking at will, for the most part, be felt in the steering. The car will react faster to steering inputs (less delay between turning the wheels and feeling the car change direction), and you'll have less centering effect.

 

If you plan to track only occasionally, getting a ride/drive in someone's car who's made these changes will save you angst in your mod efforts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use