Dujo Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 The set I had was pretty close to the right preload from the factory. If you want firmer (you probably don't in a DD), you can get that by torquing down. Note 5 mm difference is a fair amount. You would feel it. You don't need air tools to do this job in your driveway. It would make it easier, but you can do it with a 3' breaker bar, a torque wrench, and some oomph. Drove my car to 65,000 miles in New England winters and I still got them off. Fyi ... I think you should start with a 20-200 or so 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. You'll appreciate the leverage when torquing over 100 ft lbs. It's a little tough to get in there with the bigger one, but I thought that was a more versatile size in the end. Truth, be told though, now I have both. +1 on anti-sieze. I've muddled with things since putting them on. You will appreciate having done it. In addition, before you mount them, feel free to even apply some anti-seize to the threads of the coilovers themselves and spin the collars around a bit to spread it around. If you put these on the car and run 'em, they'll get dirt and other schmuck in them. The anti-seize will make them easier to adjust and help keep those threads lubricated too. Make sure you put the car on jack stands for safety. You don't need spring compressors to get them on and off, but you will have to compress the whole strut a little bit to get the lower bolt back in. Use your OEM jack under the strut bottom to push on it after you've hand-tightened the top hat bolts. Once every thing is together, then torque it down. Be careful on the top hat bolts. Easier than you think to strip. Don't over-tighten. +1 on only about 22 ft lbs on those. The lower bolts are up over 100 iirc, check vacation pix for the exact amt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 By the way ... The walkthrough thread you want (need) is this one: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spring-swap-walkthrough-tein-h-techs-38873.html It's not exactly coilovers, but this has great pics and instructions about getting the struts out also. Just ignore the stuff where he starts taking apart his struts. You don't need to do that. But the pics show where the brake lines are and where all the nuts are that you need to loosen. Good luck. This is a great first job for a novice driveway mechanic. It was my first. Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzman Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Thanks for the guide dujo and the info. Yeah coils are new bc's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 You should be ok then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reborngarcia1985 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 any pics of the before and after? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzman Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Reborn are asking for a walkthrough? If so, I can snap a few pics while I'm installing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
system60 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Just my experience.. I've would have installed my coilovers myself, but my bolts where so rusted and lack of air tools meant I had to go to a shop.. If you don't have air tools, buy a breaker bar.. I replaced all of my bolts as well, so I won't have to worry about rust on the coilovers anytime soon. x2 just the lower bolt for the rear drivers side on mine, in the end after 2 impact guns failing it took a 300lb+ guy w/ the biggest breaker bare they had to get it loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Also, if you are buying a Craftsman torque wrench.... that is one of the few things that are NOT covered in the lifetime warranty. Check out the Brownline digital which was posted up on here a few days ago. $99 for a digital isn't that bad. It's long as hell and might be hard to stick in the tight spots in the wheel well through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Check out the reviews of the recent line of Craftsman Torque Wrenches. They are made in China, and people complain about them breaking. There is a Snap-On 1/2" torque wrench on Amazon.com for $160 Prime Shipped, which I've been eyeballing. I'm yet to buy a cheap tool that doesn't end up a) broken, b) in the trash, or c) not used enough to reach a) or b). Most of my tools are Craftsman, but the recent Craftsman items I've bought are blatantly lower quality [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggert Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 snap on torque wrenches are made by cdi, so that might be an alternative. the big ass torque wrench i use on my bike's rear wheel is an sk. it's worked well so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delirious Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 You should be able to do this yourself. I did it myself for the first time this week. Depending where in jersey you're located I can give you a hand. Shoot me a PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pako Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Well, almost three months later..... How did the install go? I am going to be doing the same thing next week. For a noob, how did it go for you? Any "oh crap, I wish I would have thought about that" moments? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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