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05 brights HID problem...


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Speaking of myths, RELAYS! :lol:

 

If a light draws too much power, it will blow the fuse. Since no fuses are blowing, you're not exceeding manufacturers limited power draw through the stock wiring.

 

Thus relays in LGT HID installs are for people who do NOT understand the system they're modifying.

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Speaking of myths, RELAYS! :lol:

 

If a light draws too much power, it will blow the fuse. Since no fuses are blowing, you're not exceeding manufacturers limited power draw through the stock wiring.

 

Thus relays in LGT HID installs are for people who do NOT understand the system they're modifying.

 

 

But if you use the headlight signal to switch the relay contacts, and have the relay power line fused at a higher value than the headlight circuit, the relay does it's job.

 

Flash to pass isn't just passing, it's also to let a trucker know he can merge in front of you, or to let someone know they can cross the street or enter the street in the dark or rainy conditions.

 

There's a reason no OEM uses HIDs in the high beams. Go ahead and find one to prove me wrong.

 

Talking about rude? How about the glare from your HID high beams? :spin:

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Glare from high beams?

 

When woukd anyone see them? Its not like i use them when driving around town or on the freeway. Just back on the roads in the woods when. And turn them off when another car comes around.

 

I dont see what the problem is. Its simply putting brighter lights in my high beams for better visibility.

 

You guys either know whats wrong, or you dont. If you dont. Then we dont need your two cents on how you feel about HIDs in high beams. You will never see them. So it doesnt matter.

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It's dangerous for the driver, not just others.

 

*sigh* can't fix stupid.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Speaking of myths, RELAYS! :lol:

 

If a light draws too much power, it will blow the fuse. Since no fuses are blowing, you're not exceeding manufacturers limited power draw through the stock wiring.

 

Thus relays in LGT HID installs are for people who do NOT understand the system they're modifying.

 

Voltage drop across stock headlight wiring is significant. A harness decreases loss and improves light performance.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Come on guys the original poster has been extremely clear. He lives in the middle of nowhere. With very little traffic On dark country forest roads. There is no problem running extremely bright lights in your high beams IF You are a decent driver An can figure out how to turn the lights off before oncoming traffic gets directly in the beams.

I use to run 140 watt high beams in my miata and never had an issue. You just have to be very aware of your surroundings and get then off quickly.

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Come on guys the original poster has been extremely clear. He lives in the middle of nowhere. With very little traffic On dark country forest roads. There is no problem running extremely bright lights in your high beams IF You are a decent driver An can figure out how to turn the lights off before oncoming traffic gets directly in the beams.

I use to run 140 watt high beams in my miata and never had an issue. You just have to be very aware of your surroundings and get then off quickly.

 

Thank you... Close-minded people bug me.

 

Lets stay on topic...

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Voltage drop across stock headlight wiring is significant. A harness decreases loss and improves light performance.

 

That's great in theory, but in reality who has ever had a problem getting enough voltage to their HIDs on a LGT with stock wiring? It's not a maxed out fuel pump...

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Come on guys the original poster has been extremely clear. He lives in the middle of nowhere. With very little traffic On dark country forest roads. There is no problem running extremely bright lights in your high beams IF You are a decent driver An can figure out how to turn the lights off before oncoming traffic gets directly in the beams.

I use to run 140 watt high beams in my miata and never had an issue. You just have to be very aware of your surroundings and get then off quickly.

 

It's not about other drivers. The output of a HID bulb in a halogen designed reflector housing is shit. Lots of glare and lots of scatter make it a worse performing light.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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That's great in theory, but in reality who has ever had a problem getting enough voltage to their HIDs on a LGT with stock wiring? It's not a maxed out fuel pump...

 

Why leave lighting performance on the table?

 

It would be like running a very dirty air filter. It still works, of course, but you are leaving performance on the table to save a few minutes and a few dollars.

 

I tested my old Forester. There was a 2V drop through the factory headlight wiring. I made my own harness for $18 and less than 30 minutes of work.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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But. But...I said to get a relay at the very beginning. No one listens to me. =/

 

I thnk the OP should put 75w HID's in his/her Low beams, High Beams, and Fog lights. Then he/she should run them all at the same time so that his/her car can light up the night like this:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPKy1KAz8OM]100W HID The brightest road registered car in the world 82,000 Lumens - YouTube[/ame]

 

If you didn't notice. THAT'S the glare you are creating by putting HID's in your High Beam (reflector) Housing. Great for you, but hell for everyone else on the road.

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Why leave lighting performance on the table?

 

It would be like running a very dirty air filter. It still works, of course, but you are leaving performance on the table to save a few minutes and a few dollars.

 

I tested my old Forester. There was a 2V drop through the factory headlight wiring. I made my own harness for $18 and less than 30 minutes of work.

 

By that logic, everyone should consider installing relays, regardless of HID or halogen. Yet it's only brought up when HIDs are on the table. I have read many people say HIDs can even fry factory wiring. That's a load of crap, and more my point. They're completely unnecessary, and make a lot of engine bays look like BestBuy installs the way many people are running them, which I'm sure you could argue is not worth the fire hazard of a marginal increase in light output.

That said, I see your point on voltage drop, and I'll add that to my list of things that don't get 14V factory (fuel pump). Though a light getting 12V is hardly a problem.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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If you didn't notice. THAT'S the glare you are creating by putting HID's in your High Beam (reflector) Housing. Great for you, but hell for everyone else on the road.

 

Again.... No one else will ever see my high beam. So glare does not matter... Only thing that matters is that the lighting is brighter and farther in comparison to the stock bulbs. I dont care about glare. Cause its just for me. I dont flash at people. And id never have them on with other cars around. My only problem is the dash light staying on. Lets not have a pissing match about who has a better opinion and reasons to back their opinion. Because your opinion on wether or not a car should have HID brights doesnt matter for the question i originaly asked..

 

BAC... We get that you dont like HID brights. And we know why... We also know that your the type of person that will call others stupid, and put them down. Just because their opinion differs from yours.. I truly hope that your other 11,700 post are more helpful to others, than the ones youve been posting here. Ill let you get the last word (cause i know youre going to need it to be happy) and then i will just throw any advise you have to the side. That is, until you decide to put your ego aside and actually help.

 

Again. Thank you to the guys with real ideas that dont just mock others...

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But if you use the headlight signal to switch the relay contacts, and have the relay power line fused at a higher value than the headlight circuit, the relay does it's job.

 

Flash to pass isn't just passing, it's also to let a trucker know he can merge in front of you, or to let someone know they can cross the street or enter the street in the dark or rainy conditions.

 

There's a reason no OEM uses HIDs in the high beams. Go ahead and find one to prove me wrong.

 

Talking about rude? How about the glare from your HID high beams? :spin:

 

bi-xenon in the acura tl. my 2006 had fog lights where there the high beams are supposed to be. when you hit the high beam switch, you can hear the low beams move into the high beam position and BAM!!!! flash me all you wanted... ill flash you back and blind the crap out of you!!!! i have been thinking about doing the The Retrofit Source Morimoto Retro-Quik Mini H1.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/retrofitting-projectors-trs-hid-178274.html?t=178274&highlight=Morimoto

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/trs-retrofit-source-bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-iii-kit-156626.html?t=156626&highlight=Morimoto

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Glare from high beams?

 

When woukd anyone see them? Its not like i use them when driving around town or on the freeway. Just back on the roads in the woods when. And turn them off when another car comes around.

 

I dont see what the problem is. Its simply putting brighter lights in my high beams for better visibility.

 

You guys either know whats wrong, or you dont. If you dont. Then we dont need your two cents on how you feel about HIDs in high beams. You will never see them. So it doesnt matter.

 

instead of hid high beams go all out and get a low profile light bar on top and a rally bar with two 5 inch lights attached. the zombie apocalypse should be coming soon so at least your car would be half way prepped

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voltage and amperage are different. every hid kit pulls the same 12 volts. the amps may not get exceeded to blow the fuse since the relay is for initial start up. it makes sure both hid ballast get the same amount of energy to start both bulbs at the same time. i had the issue of one bulb not turning on without turning them on and off again. with the relay they turn on every single time on the first try. the reason i suggest the relay for his situation is that the relay pulls the power from the battery and just uses the factory plug as a signal to trip the switch. in other words if it is pushing power back through the harness causing the high beam light to be illuminated then the relay should stop that from happening
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By that logic, everyone should consider installing relays, regardless of HID or halogen. Yet it's only brought up when HIDs are on the table. I have read many people say HIDs can even fry factory wiring. That's a load of crap, and more my point. They're completely unnecessary, and make a lot of engine bays look like BestBuy installs the way many people are running them, which I'm sure you could argue is not worth the fire hazard of a marginal increase in light output.

That said, I see your point on voltage drop, and I'll add that to my list of things that don't get 14V factory (fuel pump). Though a light getting 12V is hardly a problem.

 

I built a harness for the halogens I had in my Forester. It made a noticeable difference. For an HID install, I prefer a harness simply because it isolates the factory wiring from poorly insulated ballasts. The electronic noise associated with such a high power voltage converter is fairly significant. Keeping the factory wiring isolated is a good rule of thumb, especially with a cheap ballast from China.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Standard bulbs fed via relay may make a large difference too. On of the older subies I had it was a 2V difference between going with the stock wiring and the relay solution.

 

And 2V difference makes a large difference in light intensity.

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Standard bulbs fed via relay may make a large difference too. On of the older subies I had it was a 2V difference between going with the stock wiring and the relay solution.

 

And 2V difference makes a large difference in light intensity.

 

I saw exactly the same numbers on my old Forester. I have pics somewhere.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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OP might I suggest these?

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/EyeClops-Vision-Infrared-Stealth-Goggles/dp/B00153F5QA]Amazon.com: EyeClops Night Vision Infrared Stealth Goggles: Toys & Games[/ame]

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LOL what^^^^

 

OP, either way I hope that your problem gets solved or is solved. If it does not and you would like to increase light output the easier way contact me and I will get you setup. What kelvin HIDs are you running right now?

[
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Im running 10,000k in the lows. And trying to run 6,000k in the highs.

 

Ive looked at your setups. I like what i see. Im sure ill be contacting you at some point for a headlight setup.

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Sounds good.

 

One thing to remember, I really would not suggest running 10k in the lows. HIDs in the high beam aside....not really an important debate here as it wasnt the question. I think you will be much happier with the light output that you will get from the 6k and below ratings. This will solve some of the issues with lighting in Port Orchard where I know street lights are hard to come by. Dont let your eyes fool you!

[
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Hey guys... I have searched high and low, but havnt seen anyone with this problem yet...

 

I just installed HID lights in my car. I did the fogs and headlights yesterday, and the brights today...

 

My problem is this. After installing the brights, my little blue "brights" indicator dash light comes on if my fogs are turned on. (wasnt like this untill i put HIDs in the brights) i went back to the stock halogens, and the problem stopped. So i know its the HIDs that cause the problem.

 

All the lights work fine. But my small case of OCD wont let me ignore the 'brights' indicator that comes on when im not useing my brights... Does anyone know anything about this? Or some sort of fix, short of just going back to stock halogens?

 

Thank you much.

-Kyle-

 

you need to put a resistor in line with the high beam wires to the hid boxs and it will take care of the high beam indicator being on.

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Only thing that matters is that the lighting is brighter and farther in comparison to the stock bulbs. I dont care about glare. Cause its just for me.

 

Im running 10,000k in the lows. And trying to run 6,000k in the highs.

 

Ive looked at your setups. I like what i see. Im sure ill be contacting you at some point for a headlight setup.

 

Maybe if you truly want a brighter light, you can change that blue light to a white light. (Meaning change your 10,000k to a 4,300k system) Maybe then you'd actually have enough light out of your low-beams to not need to waste a hid set-up on a reflector device.

 

Though if it is still not enough light, changing out the lens might help. Or as another stated, adding a light bar.

 

 

Though if your problem truly is the high beam indicator, maybe the relay trick will work.

Pictures of my rides;

2001 Honda Civic LX 4dr old whip[/url]

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