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Engine Removal Question..newbie.


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Just make sure the engine is in right time before you throw the impact gun on or you'll have bent valves. The valves can contact the piston AND they can contact other valves.

 

Another reason to love my on interference SOHCs. :)

 

Y'all making cam gears sound like a big deal. Use the old timing belt and a pair of vise grips and wrap the belt around the crank gear and the pulley to remove. Lock in place using vise grip to remove slack. Use hex socket on breaker bar to loosen cam pulley bolt. Save the timing belt as a tool or toss it.

 

Don't bother with the rear main seal unless it is already leaking. Do replace cam seals and any other gaskets that are no longer pliable.

 

Cam gears can be a big deal. I tried the timing belt thing and it didn't work for me. So again, they can and will be a big deal for some people.

 

As far as the rear main seal, when I rebuilt my EJ22T the RMS wasn't leaking, but I wasn't about to have completely stripped my engine down to the shortblock, replace every seal, and hope for the best with the RMS. Sure, they can last the life of the car, but I wasn't about to chance it. However, if I was just doing the HGs and the RMS was good I wouldn't have bothered.

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I didn't do the front and rear main seals when I pulled our motor and wish I had, they both looked fine... about 20k miles later all of a sudden I smell oil big time..... Luckily it was the front main seal... so timing belt and all that crap has to come off again, thank god it wasn't the rear main seal, redoing all the timing belt after 20k miles was bad enough...
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I knew if I didn't do the rear main seal that it would keep me up at night, lol. It's a cheap part. Tricky to seat properly, but not impossible. Just get a piece of PVC pipe that is the correct diamaer or a garbage disposal flange to seat it. Tap it in with your hammer making sure it is evenly seated all around.

 

A subie tech also showed me how to take a 1/4" drive extension and tap it in all around to get it perfectly seated. The most important part of installing the RMS is to make sure it is evenly seated around the crankshaft that the flywheel bolts to.

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