BigTDogg MA Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I'd like to add a little bottom end, but don't want to sacrifice space. So I was thinking of some 6.5" free air subs in the rear doors. Amped, obviously. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 You want midbass or bass? Not much airspace in the doors to get "true" bass but youll get some midbass w good drivers and proper sealing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUIAAE Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Save your money, grab yourself some wood working tools for <30$ (saw, cheap jig saw, wood glue and some finishing nails 2.5in long). Get yourself some 1/2in particle board. Now find yourself a nice 6in shallow mount woofer, or a high-quality 4.5in woofer and make yourself a box for under your seat. A woofer in your door is more than possible but you're going to have to fiberglass in an enclosure for it to actually produce what you're looking for. Free-Air woofers are great if you don't have an alternative, in this case you do have an alternative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 paging fiberglasscustoms oh wait... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 I have plenty of tools and know-how, I just don't have the time, or desire to lose underseat space. I'm not looking for sub-bass like a proper 12" in a 2ft³ enclosure would produce, just some low end fill, down to maybe 50Hz or so. There's more airspace in the door than would be in an underseat sub anyway. Not as tightly sealed, but it's available. Plus with phenryiv1's adapters I wouldn't have to worry about mounting depth. paging fiberglasscustoms oh wait... IDGI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 why not just replace your speakers with component speakers? is it just moar bass u are after? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUIAAE Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 he's said like 5 x it's Moar bass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 where are the five times that he said it? would new speakers all around not accomplish this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 where are the five times that he said it? would new speakers all around not accomplish this? I only said it once, dunno where the 5x came from I have some Polk dB651's for the front doors, actually have them for all four doors. Maybe I'll just amp those and be done with it. I do like to overthink things though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUIAAE Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 *whoosh* sarcasm * whoosh* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 im sure that would work, especially since you already have them. Plus if you feel that you need to use the free air subs, it will all already be wired for amping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 Yeah, I'll have to find something else to overthink now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Definitely amp your current speakers first, that might satisfy you. But dedicated subs in the doors will be mostly midbass drivers. They don't have enough cone area to play with much authority down low. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 First things first, I need to replace the POS OEM unit. So I need to save some coin for the JDM adapter and select a good head unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Meh. The OEM unit works for me with an integration unit like the MS8 or the Alpine unit. To each his own, but it wasn't worth the price tag to upgrade for me, and I already had a nice head unit I could have put in. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 You have an 07, yours plays MP3's yes? I have the garbieeege 05 with no aux in, no MP3 capability. I really want to chokeslam the asshole who combined the PCBs for the HVAC and HU. Like really hard. Asshole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morbane Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I only said it once, dunno where the 5x came from I have some Polk dB651's for the front doors, actually have them for all four doors. Maybe I'll just amp those and be done with it. I do like to overthink things though. I have db651's in 4 doors as well & i can tell you these need an amp bad. I'm using a Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 & it works quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Well, I'm really rusty on this stuff, but I thought "free air" subs were those meant to be used in an infinite baffle (IB) installation. They're designed so that the suspension handles all the load and determines the Fs - putting it in a door semi-sealed up may raise the Fs and kill the lower bass response. Plus you might wind up with chuffing and other nasty noises in the door... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Tony, search for some of msmith's old thread's. He didn't use 8's, but his team were defintely able to modify the doors to their full potential. I think the picture links are all since dead, but I used a lot of his suggestions in my system way back when. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Well, I'm really rusty on this stuff, but I thought "free air" subs were those meant to be used in an infinite baffle (IB) installation. They're designed so that the suspension handles all the load and determines the Fs - putting it in a door semi-sealed up may raise the Fs and kill the lower bass response. Plus you might wind up with chuffing and other nasty noises in the door... +1... the LGT's trunk is plenty sufficient for a sub in a nice box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 I haz wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUIAAE Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Good, with a wagon you can fit even more subz in there! 2 8's or 2 10's seems more than adequate to what you're trying to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I have plenty of tools and know-how, I just don't have the time, or desire to lose underseat space. I'm not looking for sub-bass like a proper 12" in a 2ft³ enclosure would produce, just some low end fill, down to maybe 50Hz or so. There's more airspace in the door than would be in an underseat sub anyway. Not as tightly sealed, but it's available. Plus with phenryiv1's adapters I wouldn't have to worry about mounting depth. IDGI Thanks for the plug. I actually did a set for a pair of JL 6W3 subs in the rear doors of a '10 Legacy. He deadened the crap out of it and it turned out good. The only challenge was that I did not countersink the mounting scres and the wide mounting flange on the JL interfered with the 3 mounting points, but it was easily fixed by the installer. Next time I do adapters for subs I will know to countersink. The other thing that you might want to consider are some pure midbasses in the rear. I have heard a couple if installs where the rear speakers were replaced with quality midbass speakers and then the frequencies were bandpassed at something like 40 and up to 400 hertz. They had great "kick" to them and were very complimentary of a properly installed & amplified component set up front that had a more normal 80-100 hertz HPF at the amplifier (in addition to the passive crossover that came with the component set). if you use something to seal off the doors (plexi, lexian, lucite, or even well-deadened sheet metal) you can get some good bass & midbass out of the rear doors. I also recommend stuffing or lining the cavity between the inner door skin and the plastic door panel with CCF to absorb the "extra" reverberations that such air movement will cause in that cavity. Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Good, with a wagon you can fit even more subz in there! 2 8's or 2 10's seems more than adequate to what you're trying to do. http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQHel6gC3zuW4tK4KTQkYpTNB1Yl1D4EkuS57xjCxCIVGk4BLeCEFJU28DU I can't tell if you're serious or not. I don't need a boomin system. I need a well rounded system which doesn't compromise my storage or passenger seating space. Should I write a mission statement for this project? Thanks for the plug. Thanks for making them. Save me a crap ton of time. I would definitely need to deaden the door, and I'm not expecting sub 40Hz stuff from 6.5" subs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Patrick actually summed up what i have. I have pioneer pros in the front, and midbass in the rear doors bandpassed. 12" sub in trunk... Now when i ski and remove my sub those midbass speakers actually carry a decent whallop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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