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Free-Air subs in the rear doors, anyone done it?


BigTDogg MA

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Patrick actually summed up what i have. I have pioneer pros in the front, and midbass in the rear doors bandpassed. 12" sub in trunk... Now when i ski and remove my sub those midbass speakers actually carry a decent whallop.

 

 

Is your avatar your Mii? Awesome.

 

Yeah, I might go this route. But I think I'd start with the four dB651 drivers, amped and door deadened and go from there.

 

phenryiv1, if I get 4 spacers for my Polk dB651, could I (or you) mod two of them to fit Kicker 10CVT654 drivers? The difference in mounting diameter between the two is 1/2".

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Yeah, I might go this route. But I think I'd start with the four dB651 drivers, amped and door deadened and go from there.

 

phenryiv1, if I get 4 spacers for my Polk dB651, could I (or you) mod two of them to fit Kicker 10CVT654 drivers? The difference in mounting diameter between the two is 1/2".

 

The top-mount depth of 2-13/16" on those Kickers is REALLY deep. I have put 2.5-2.6" deep speakers in the doors with a 3/4" spacer, and I can do an additional 5/16" ring on top of that 3/4" spacer, but it may be really tight against both the window AND the inner door panel. I don't have a Legacy handy to use to take measurements or I'd mock it up for you.

 

Something like the JL Audio C5-650cw might work better, with a 2 9/16" depth and a 5 9/16" cutout. They are designed for exactly your application- rear door locations to compliment front components.

 

 

The only thing that makes me think that the Kickers might work is that I made a set of spacers for the JL 6w3 subs for a 2010 Legacy and they are over 4" deep. I just don't remember how (whether by depth or by the lack of interference in the first place) they cleared the rear windows.

 

Speaking to modifying the existing Polk spacers and the 5" cutout that they had, because the circle cutter relies on a stationary center hole to cut the mounting hole, you would not be able to enlarge the hole unless you marked off the 1/4" around the existing cutout did one of the following:

 

  • Used a router to rout out to the new line,
  • Applied a very steady hand with a jigsaw and cut a larger circle, or
  • Used a 5.5" holesaw (without the benefit of a pilot hole) and started slowly until you cut a pilot groove.

The material would have to be clamped down really well and you'd lack a pilot hole.

 

It would be a LOT easier to just get another set of spacers and sell the Polk ones as a package with the Polk speakers if you decide to buy 4 Polks now and then decide to upgrade later. I cut a discount for repeat purchases.

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Is your avatar your Mii? Awesome.

 

Yeah, I might go this route. But I think I'd start with the four dB651 drivers, amped and door deadened and go from there.

 

phenryiv1, if I get 4 spacers for my Polk dB651, could I (or you) mod two of them to fit Kicker 10CVT654 drivers? The difference in mounting diameter between the two is 1/2".

 

na man thats DJ Jesus ;) (very funny cartoon that was cancelled way too soon) [ame=http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xa73m1_dj-jesus-burning-man_creation]DJ Jesus @ Burning Man - Video Dailymotion@@AMEPARAM@@http://www.dailymotion.com/swf/video@@AMEPARAM@@video[/ame]

 

i had those exact polks, although excellent drivers they lack serious midbass. They work well in the upper mids though

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Meh. The OEM unit works for me with an integration unit like the MS8 or the Alpine unit. To each his own, but it wasn't worth the price tag to upgrade for me, and I already had a nice head unit I could have put in.

 

LOL yep. that's why I use my Jensen stereo hooked up to a McIntosh amp and Magnepan speakers.

 

T dogg, do you have an amp yet? In addition to the fact that a lot of people don't put in rear fill at all, an amped pair of speakers up front could provide sufficient midbass.

 

Really I would consider a free sub in the doors to be a last resort- if you have a bassy pair of speakers up front and its still not enough, and you cant sacrifice underseat space, then do it. But especially if you dropped the coin for good components, you might be disappointed with the sound.

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