Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

rear wheel bearing R&R


Recommended Posts

If the noise increases as you're turning left - aka loading the right-side suspension - then it's your RIGHT bearing that's starting to fail, not your left. Just trying to save you some time, dude.

Thats unforunately not always acurate though. Ive been fooled many times using that method. After a road test we always check with a stethescope running the car on the lift. Sometimes they are loose as hell which makes it nice and obvious too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I usually just put the rotor on backwards, and put the lugnuts on loose, only a few turns. Now you have a slide hammer....

That is a neat idea. I like it. Although I would probably use old lugnuts so that you dont f$&k up your good ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep lots less drive line noise. Very quiet now. Just got back from about 30 miles on the highway.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a few pictures from the process.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4639.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4640.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4641.jpg

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a reply I just did to a PM about this job. May be it will help some of you.

 

 

 

Having done the brakes a few times they are easy, the two caliper bolts need a,

 

14mm socket on about 9" of 3/8 extensions, a 3" and a 6" adapted to a 1/2" ratchet.

 

Spray them with PB Blaster first. Use Anti-seize compound on the threads when you put them back in. Mine come out easy.

 

The other thing you'll need are 2 each 8mm X 1.25 bolts to remove the rotor. Spray the holes with PB and put anti-seize on the threads of the two bolts before you thread them into the rotor. Drive them in equally with a ratchet and you'll see the rotor walk off the hub.

 

 

The 14mm bolts that held the hub in came out easy too. Again anti-seize the threads putting them back in.

The slide hammer worked well for me getting the hub off. Though it broke, I took it back to Harbor Fright and got my money back.

 

 

Do not hit the hub from the back with a hammer and punch, all you do is bend the thin shield that potects the ABS sensor. I had to bend mine back.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had no CEL. Did you bend the shield on the axle ?

 

Did you hit the black sensor somehow ?

 

Pull the battery cable for 15 minutes and see if that clears the codes.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You most likely hit the ABS sensor when removing or installing the hub. You must be careful of the sensor.

 

Possibly. Is it likely damaged?

On edit, the ring/shield shown in the middle photo of Max's post above moved a bit when removing the old hub. Can that part be damaged and can it be replaced?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is attached to the axle shaft and is a shield to keep crud out from the bearing. It most likely moved with the axle shaft. It can be taken off the axle shaft and replaced but I wouldnt see the need unless it is missing a piece. The black sensor you see in front of the shield is the ABS sensor and is fragile. If it was accidentally knocked and/or broken it would set your ABS light off.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

vtbimmer is correct about the shield could be bent, I bent mine and just bent it back mostly flat.

 

I'm not sure the shield can be replaced with out removing/replacing the axle. I'm thinking you may have damaged the sensor.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
For anyone who has had Subaru reimburse for rear wheel bearing - who did you reach out to? My local dealership said they wouldn't reimburse for a wheel bearing I had replaced by a non dealership. Can someone PM me a phone number or email address for SOA?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use