torinalth Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 ok, final log on this setup, no change in boost from my MBC, but it was a bit cooler, so a touch more boost in the lower end due to density. Overall I'm happy. Tomorrow I am going to put my EBCS in parallel to run the majority of the DD stuff, and let the halman take over at the 80+ segment. For scaling my target boost table: was going to do the NSFW method and add .5 PSI to my WOT values, then scale down from there across the table. Does that seem right? first time tuning the EBCS so this part of the rom is new territory for me. Also, ballpark WGDC to start at? know I will have to log and adjust as needed to meet target, but not sure where to start with a 3 port vs stock. Thoughts?05Apr2012-1.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 set your initial wgdc table low, like 10 or 15 in the wot column and work your way down from there to 0(on the left side of the table). keep max wgdc table stock. do a 3rd gear pull and log boost error. look at where the boost peaks, rpms wise, look at boost error and it will say -xx or +xx....that's how much percent your boosting under or over target. so trim wgdc from there. generally within 1% is good. if it's + number then you're overboosting and need to bring init wgdc down, if its negative then you're underboosting thus need to bring init up a little. do it slowly. once you've hit target boost and got your init tables good, set max 10% higher than init table. remember, the ebcs will not adjust wastegate over a duty cycle in the max table. thus if you set your whole max wgdc table to 0, you're going to run actuator spring pressure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 makes sense. thanks for the insight. need to work on wife's car first, but after that I'll have the EBCS and cockpit control setup... and God willing I'll have my LC-1 working again so I can be more accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 you dont need a wb02 to do closed loop maf scaling, only open loop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 right, but to see actual numbers incase the stock is off. I have the G10 gauge as well, so I will see it at all times if something goes off kilter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 you can log the stock sensor afr through romraider. my aem uego and stock o2 read the same in closed loop. i used the rr maf tool to scale 0-150g/s range, and then for above that i set my ol tables at wot to 10.88 and my aem read 11.6. I then scaled the cells above 150g/s up 8%, no i'm right on the dot as far as target and actual goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 ok, changed over to the new hybrid setup and got it MOSTLY dialed in. for WOT initial is something like 60 or so and max is 90 to force MBC to take over. will probably drop max down to around 70 or so to keep the colors less drastic in the editor.... Anyhow. this one was only a partial pull due to traffic, but brought up some figures that I wanted clarification on. I get knock at 3133 rpm... and also get hit with -2 FBKC. it meanders around and finally drops back to 0 at 4400, but kicks in with -1.4FLKC and again from 45-4600... are these separate entities, or are they tied together? where if FBKC registers for long enough the FLKC adjusts globaly? also, IAM didnt take a hit so its not that bad of a knock then right? I dialed back down the boost slightly, but will not have a chance to log again till later, and probably not till monday to get a full 2k-7k pull. SEPARATE issue - throttle plate is at ~7% when the accel pedal is at 0... and throttle plate gets to 100 when accel is ~91. this normal, or should I be fixing this? does not seem right to me....08Apr2012-1.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted April 8, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted April 8, 2012 That's a lot of learned knock and actual knock events at high load. I wouldn't consider that "not that bad". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 SEPARATE issue - throttle plate is at ~7% when the accel pedal is at 0... and throttle plate gets to 100 when accel is ~91. this normal, or should I be fixing this? does not seem right to me....Yes, that's perfectly normal. How do you expect your car to keep running if the plate is actually closed 100%? As for 91% pedal angle = 100% throttle angle, not sure. I'd have to check. Never bothered to look at that. On an unrelated note, you seem to be sticking up for MBCs quite a bit in that other thread where the guy has an overboost problem. Why do people bother using a MBC? Seems to me that an EBCS can accomplish everything the MBC does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted April 8, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted April 8, 2012 You can change boost on the fly for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 I guess... but then again, that's what my foot is for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 boost on the fly is one, yes.... much easier to dial in WOT boost with a MBC than a EBCS. and guess what, once its set, it never moves (within tollerances). the ONLY pain in the ass is that you get the PTFB, which while not harmful, detrimental, or hard to tune for... it is a slight annoyance just to hear it, burns a bit more fuel, but you cant ever beat it for getting back into boost asap. hell, only reason I am adding my GS EBCS to go hybrid is 1 - be semi-unique and 2 - try and get better MPG .. which i still need to tune for. I think you'd like it honestly, or at least the hybrid. you can't get boost spikes, and unless its due to mechanical inefficiency then you dont creep either. I made another adjustment to the WOT level shooting for 20.5, reset ECU, and let idle for a bit. we will see tomorrow when I do a full pull. once I get the WOT mapped out right I'll go to lower levels to ensure the WGDC is set right and probably even drop boost levels a bit. then dial in timing, and then my MAF... never ending. I'll poke around the throttle plate and whatnot see if I can find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Hmm, now that I think about it, I see what you mean about it being easier to dial in WOT. You just turn the dial to where you want the pressure to be, and that's all you have to do huh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted April 9, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted April 9, 2012 That's what makes me interested in one. It's either that or an AP when I go stage 2. I don't trust my wife with stage 2, or my current setup for that matter. I'd like to be able to turn it down when I'm not in the car so my wife doesn't total my car and kill herself from her insane driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 that can happen regardless of power.... a hallman pro RX is cheap (considering), proven reliable, and as shown by several users: easy to integrate into a hybrid setup. Hell, technically I'm already there, but since I did not have a 3 port before the hallman I have to now tune everything but WOT for the EBCS. if you have already tuned for a 3 port, adding the hallman is 5 min under the hood, and 2 min in RR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 damn I am happy. Car feel AMAZING. standard DD demeanor is wonderful. much more mild mannered, and the WOT is smooth as always with no problems. This hybrid setup just rocks. Reset ECU before heading out today. attached is my 3rd gear pull, and my LV, well, MAF needs work, but that's it going to do a log for non WOT boost levels and WGDC to make sure everything is doing what is supposed to and dial that table in. then hopefully next week will be dedicated to MAF tuning.09Apr2012-1.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 damn I am happy. Car feel AMAZING.. exactly what i said before two pistons gave out and that was saturday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 no, bad BMX.... no raining! I'm already putting off testing my coolant for fear of a possible HG leak.... don't want bad news.... though honestly am debating about pulling the motor and doing a refresh on her this summer when I have my week off between rotations. But, that is for later. interested to see where, if anywhere I can poke the timing. For CL timing, rely on LV to make changes, or log it like now, and change anywhere FBKC or knock sum jump? This will be my first in depth timing work across the board instead of heavy handed changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 i stand corrected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted April 10, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted April 10, 2012 Although if you see a knock sum increase at high load/rpm, just reduce timing whether it shows up in flkc or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Fbkc and flkc. If it only shows up in fbkc and doesnt go into flkc the ecu didnt consider it to happen consistenly enough to make a change This is NOT how FLKC and FBKC work. Here: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic1840.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 wow that is a good read, but somewhat unsure of the real changeover of FB and FL. I understand rough and FL changeover, but guess I do not see how the line is drawn between if FB or FL is to be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 That's not really that important, to understand when it activates. You just need to know that you should be logging both and not ignoring either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted April 10, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted April 10, 2012 Or just log knock sum and ignore both of those.... I ignore anything below 2k rpm and 1.0 load. It's easy enough to figure out if a knock event is happening during a pull or whether it is from abrupt throttle changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Knock sum does register times when only noise occurs, not knock. So you do need something else. Knock correction advance used to be the ticket before fb and FL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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