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AT trans cooler for mt radiator


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Yes its a stand alone unit. Im also just using a prosport oil temp gauge since it seems to sweep low enough. I guess ill be swapping hoses and the sending unit this weekend.

 

In for results. I'm curious about how it will do. At least you're monitoring your temps to be sure.

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It seems a but small for stand alone. Although it may not get as hot where you are. Why are you sending it back?

 

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No im not sending it back just swapping the hoses and sending unit so it monitors before cooler instead of after cooler. Its a little shorter but same length then the tru cool 4452 which i was going to get but seems to get just as good reviews. I'm in Utah so it doesn't get as hot Az but still 100degrees in summer. But i don't drive aggressively, just the occasional..i'm going to get on the freeway faster then anyone next to me run, but that's it.

 

I guess ill record what the temps are now to compare when i put the sending unit before the cooler.

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Oh haha derp! Sending unit lol! Ya let use know how it goes. I'd be curious. I would think it might run too hot. I was tuning the other night on the road and all I had was the hayden 1677 on and it was almost as hot as the TMIC.

 

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I'm uploading my photos now. I went large so I might over cool in winter. I might need to swap coolers based on season. Pictures in a few

 

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Instead of going through that trouble, just install a thermostat. That way you can bypass the cooler below 180F.

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Instead of going through that trouble, just install a thermostat. That way you can bypass the cooler below 180F.

 

I actually have thought about that. But do the thermostat allow atf to flow just at a smaller rate or is it just open or close.

 

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As i live in arizona, the temps get boiling hot in the summer. Not to mention the lack of airflow in traffic. I took some advice and here is what I have come up with.

 

I went with the Hayden 1679 and a cheap ebay 9 inch fan.

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_104512.jpg

 

The cooler is huge about 11x11

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_104741.jpg

 

Here is the current setup the hoses are long because I was waiting for the 1679 to arrive so I used my previous cooler. The brackets on the bumper beam will be shown and the others are for the hellas

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_104755.jpg

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_104812.jpg

 

First bracket:

Please also not the addition bolt located below the hood latch.

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_104842.jpg

 

With the cooler on the bolts:

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_105105.jpg

 

This image is showing that the latch clears the cooler. It was a pain, I hooked it up last night and it interfered big time. I put a few washers in between the cooler and the bolt for spacing.

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_105121.jpg

 

This shows the fan assemble on the cooler. It uses the same zip fasteners that come with most coolers.

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_105156.jpg

 

This is hard to see but the fixture just barely clears the bumper beam

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_105220.jpg

 

This is my interesting layout for my supertones:

Ghetto! I know! I said it BMX so you dont have to! :p

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_105449.jpg

 

Here is everything -ish I didnt have enough hands for the fan but you get the idea. The hoses will be unobtrusive and will look clean. All the brackets are painted with high heat spray paint and i will cut them down.

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_105514.jpg

 

With the grill to check fitment

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/cyclozene/20120316_105611.jpg

 

And that is all!

Cheers

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I missed this thread earlier, now all this new cooler talk makes sense :lol:

 

1) A sensor before the coolers is only useful in confirming max ATF temp.

2) A sensor after the coolers is only useful in determining whether your cooling setup does too much, too little, or is just right.

3) A pan plug sensor reads what the temps pre trans pickup, which is lower than after the pump chews on it and pressurizes it.

4) A sensor in the VB reading pressurized temps tells you what the trans is about to see in operation. Or a sensor in the trans would yield the same result, if tapped before ATF went through its destined service part.

 

The engineers went with #1 and #4.

#1 is least relevant by itself, but a great bonus with any other primary sensor, such as #2/#3, or ideally #4.

#4 is best, but requires tapping a high pressure port on the trans, which no one has yet done.

#2 or #3 are best for a single simple sensor install in low pressure areas. #3 is a little more relevant, but #2 is a little safer and more practical to run on a car that will see road debris.

 

You were right the first time. You may gain some good confirmation of temps with #1, but then I recommend switching back to #2 after doing your WOT testing. #2 is practical for all season use, and is probably what I would do myself. However, laptop works fine for me.

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Happy to help. Nice setup you've got there around the radiator. Interested to hear about your trans temp ranges with your cooling setup. Very little is reported about the 5eat temperatures in action. Lots of scraps of information, little compilation into a best practices the community can actually use.
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Ya I'm kinda nervous and excited as to what I will see. I'm sure it will be fine. And what are the ideal temps? I know it should be around water temps but surely there has to be a sweet spot

 

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Everyone usually says 170-180, but a customer just PM'd me saying he sees 190*F (on the return line post cooler). Most thermostats for ATF duty are 180*F. I didn't ask much about it, but that's probably fine. The fluid spec for the 5eat is pretty heat tolerant. Little is publicly known about what the RE5 trans platform works best at, though I'm sure there's a published range in the various 5eat and RE5 manuals. That range is probably in the context of the factory sensors, which read different than what your gauge will read in the return line. So I say this: Keep it simple. If temps are reasonable and pretty stable, don't worry about it. If you notice them climb, such that after your cooling system there is 220*F fluid going back into the trans, I would probably address that. I don't think AZ summer are special in this context. Radiant road heat is still going to be a lot cooler than your desired ATF temp. The great thing you are doing is that you are checking your temps instead of flying blind with arbitrary cooler installs. So keep up the good work, keep in simple, and you will of course be fine.
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I agree putting the sensor inside the trans would be ideal, short of that I still think max temp coming out of the trans is the most relevant, who cares how cool the cooler is making the fluid if it is cooking up inside the trans? I always want to know the worst case scenario. When we were racing with my SVX and Impreza both 4EATs we ran Redline High Temp ATF and combined it with the big hayden coolers and a temp gauge. I only wish I remembered what the reading were on it!

 

With that said, as with any gauge, you are not looking for a temperature per-say, what any automotive gauge tells you is where your "normal" temp/pressure/level/etc is. So if you see the temperature move away from where you normally see the gauge, that is when you get concerned. So if the gauge reads 190 degrees normally and all of a sudden it is reading 220, you know there is an issue somewhere. Be that a mechanical or environmental issue.

 

-Paisan

 

 

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The thing is that the fluid gets heated up by the TC right before it goes to the cooler. So the highest temp is not what the rest of the trans is seeing. I think the pan is the most relevant (and reasonable). If you monitor ATF sensor 1(valve body) and 2(TC), you'll see a very large difference in temps. It's a good way to see how well your cooler is working though.
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When I decided on putting the sending unit post cooler is was due to when I was running a intercooler temp setup it read both before and after temps. But to me the temp coming out if the cooler now headed to the motor was more important. So i based it off that. After posting the pic at first I started to wonder which is more important to read. But if it normally stays between 180-190 and goes up to 210-220, I could take that the same way as if it was pre cooler reading whatever temps and it goes up dramatically.

Sorry for my confusion, this is actually my first auto and first ever trans cooler with temp gauge setup.

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