xt2005bonbon Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 thanks man. Ok, summary time.. If one breaks a timing belt or it is found loose, prior to installing the new one, the mark on the crankshaft (NOT the arrow) needs to be aligned with the one on the engine. But you may not be able to move it if one or more valves are opened. So first close all valves! This step is done by working on one cam sprocket at a time. Move it slowly in either direction by hand until you feel the least resistance. I would suggest to bring the passenger side's cam sprockets where their double marks are aligned as per user manual instruction. This way, that side is already set for timing belt installation and valves are also closed.When all valves are closed, use your 22mm bolt and place it in the crankshaft sprocket and turn the engine clockwise until you align the mark (NOT the arrow) on the sprocket with the mark on the engine block.At this point, you are left aligning the driver side cam sprockets for timing belt installation. Turn the top one clockwise and the bottom counterclockwise until their single marks are aligned with the timing belt cover grooves and their double marks to each other. Work on one at a time. Please confirm that I am not advising anything wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I have my printed pages from the manual. I agree you can do it that way. It sounds safer then doing your step 2, first like the manual say's on page 1751 ME00081 IMO either way should be fine. Thinking out loud here. With the crank at TDC you will only have a interferance fit with the intake valves of #1 if you crank them full open. Which you shouldn't be doing. If you leave the crank somewhere just short of TDC you have no way that the valves can hit the piston. Because no piston will be at its TDC. When you set the intake cam in step 3 you will be moving the valves in #3 cylinder, which its piston will be at going down on a intake stroke. Lets not over think this to much. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 You know. I've now been thinking a lot about TDC. As per user manual, when the crank sprocket ARROW is aligned with the marking on the engine, piston #1 (passenger side--front of car) is at TDC, which also means that piston #2 is also at TDC. Is the following train of thought correct? 1. when the arrow has done 90 deg (clockwise) from the engine marking, all pistons receed and are half way in. This must be correct since the line mark (used for timing belt install) on the crank sprocket aligns with the engine block. 2. when the arrow reaches 180 deg, pistons #4 and #3 are at TDC. 3. when the arrow reaches 270 deg, it is like part 1 above. Is this correct? If this is, my arrow is currently pointing at 270 deg so that means all my pistons are half way in. Correct me if I am wrong. Reminder about pistons layout from this dude: Drivers side--------------passengers side -------------front of car------------------ -------#2-----------------------#1------- -------#4-----------------------#3------- Firing order is 1-3-2-4 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oicGnmUJA78&feature=related]nice video showing piston movement[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yes, I agree 90 and 270 are all four in the middle of travel. Glad you posted the firing order, I was wondering that. I have to remember that Passenger side is #1. For some reason I always think of the drivers side as 1 & 3. That makes my statement above in post 9 screwed up. I should fix that. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yes, I agree 90 and 270 are all four in the middle of travel. Great! let's have more confirm this, though it just makes sense.. Glad you posted the firing order, I was wondering that. I have to remember that Passenger side is #1. For some reason I always think of the drivers side as 1 & 3. That makes my statement above in post 9 screwed up. I should fix that. No worries mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I always look at the engine and then the furthest forward cylinder on the engine itself is always #1 for instance, my rear passenger cylinder on my beretta is #1... its 2-4-6 across the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 That will work. even with a inline 4 the is tranversely mounted. Or in VW's a vr6. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 B-BGTLimited, do you find anything wrong on my post #26? And do you confirm post #28? I'd appreciate your feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I don't see anything wrong with #26 but I agree with Max, I'd try to see if you can get the pistons away from TDC first, but it sounds like yours already is if its 270 from TDC. And #28 sounds correct as well. As noted in some of my other timing belt replies... you may need a second hand to hold the top cam gear in position while you position the lower and then apply the vice grips, I dont see it as being possible with one individual unless you have three arms. Add two more cylinders and then try to figure out which piston is where when your turning the engine over... lol way more confusing on my Beretta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 For my 3rd hand I used the ford wrench, big C clamp and a block of wood. I think it's pictured in my thread. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 I don't see anything wrong with #26 but I agree with Max, I'd try to see if you can get the pistons away from TDC first, but it sounds like yours already is if its 270 from TDC. Thanks man. That's right, the pistons are already away from TDC so that's good news. As noted in some of my other timing belt replies... you may need a second hand to hold the top cam gear in position while you position the lower and then apply the vice grips, I dont see it as being possible with one individual unless you have three arms. My wife will be next to me so I'll probably use her. Add two more cylinders and then try to figure out which piston is where when your turning the engine over... lol way more confusing on my Beretta. Not now please. 4 is enough for me right now lol. thanks for your prompt reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Well. spent yesterday's afternoon with my wife reinstalling everything. Cranked the engine and it started just fine. It sounds about the same as before (the regular subie ticking that I had before). I waited until the engine warmed up and went into boost. The car feels fine so far. Idling is also good. No hesitation. But just in case, what are the telltale signs of bent valves beside less HP (since loss of compression)? Should I get specific CEL? Any specific sound to look for? thanks guys. we're supposed to continue our trip today (6 hour drive pulling trailer). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 If you bent valves, you would know it by now. Good job. Drive it and enjoy the fruits of your labor. I hope you said thanks to the wife for her help. I'm sure you know you owe her... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 If you bent valves, you would know it by now. Good job. Drive it and enjoy the fruits of your labor. I hope you said thanks to the wife for her help. I'm sure you know you owe her... Yeah you'd be misfiring and have a really rough idle and much more issues if you actually did cause any damage, but it sounds like your in the clear. Good work and happy boosting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Latest update: fixed the car last thursday by ourselves . Next day, we drove about 300 miles pulling a 2500 lbs trailer and she is pulling and boosting like normal! We still can't believe it. I mean we did all of this in the cold (granted in a small garage), in an unfamiliar place (we are moving right now and found a good samaritan who let us use his garage while we slept in a hotel). I mean, daaaaang! I am just baffled at the fact that nothing got bent. It is truly a miracle. We have three more 8 hour drives to do. I think it'll be all fine. I will keep you posted. But oil is full and fresh, same for coolant, power steering and brake fluid. And I am carrying like 3 quarts of oil and same for the coolant . Lucky I am carrying all my tools too! If you bent valves, you would know it by now. Good job. Drive it and enjoy the fruits of your labor. I hope you said thanks to the wife for her help. I'm sure you know you owe her... thanks man. I appreciate your support. And yeah, I did thank her. And I will enjoy driving the OBXT. I missed it bad actually. Yeah you'd be misfiring and have a really rough idle and much more issues if you actually did cause any damage, but it sounds like your in the clear. Good work and happy boosting! thank you as well for your help and insights. You guys support and help were really needed, especially when you're stuck in the middle of nowhere. thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 just a quick update that we've done about 1700 miles since we've replaced the timing belt, tensioner, crank sprocket, and tensioner bracket. The car had no issue pulling our 2500 lbs trailer even on steep hills! I won't talk about mileage though . I thought I was 'drinking gaz' like a hummer at times. Anyways, I'll update my first post later on to post answers to my original questions to help others in the future. On another note, it was so strange that the tensioner died at 50000 miles!! But still amazing that no valves were bent. Still can't believe it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 That's some story...glad it all worked out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 latest update: it's now been 2000 miles since we've replaced the timing belt and tensioner. The car still appears to run great, does reach max boost, pulls hard, and idles OK. But since we've fixed it, the 'ticking' has been noticeably louder from day one. It has not gotten worse since then but it is there. Furthermore, when the engine is cold and you put it under load (like backing up or begin moving in 1st gear), that ticking becomes a slightly louder 'tack tack' sound. That appears to occur only under 2000 rpm, with a load, and cold engine so far. From my research on the web (nasioc,iwsti...) and youtube sound clips, it kinna sounds like some kind of piston slap. However, I'd have a hard time believing that the issue I ran into would have caused piston slap. So my plan is to record the sound, post it here and get some feedback from you all. And I'll schedule myself for compression/leakdown tests next week. I am so afraid of the verdict... better get mentally ready for a new EJ257 shortblock p.s: whatever the outcome is though, the car did pull the heavy trailer and brought us to our final destination safely. That was the most important thing really. Also, trip was done with synthetic oil 5w30. just changed it to shell synthetic 5w40 today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 spent a couple more hours researching..beginning to think noise is coming from lifters. I need to get an HD mic to get proper recording. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 +1 for video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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