Scoobyflat6 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 My question for the seat belt chime is, do you have to do it on both sides? Or will it turn the passenger side light and chime off as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omni Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 The MPG indicator adjustment works. Before it was way off, and now after the adjustment, the difference between the MPG-indicated vs MPG-calculated on average over the last 14 fill-ups is only 0.05 MPG. That is remarkable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 My question for the seat belt chime is, do you have to do it on both sides? Or will it turn the passenger side light and chime off as well? Seems to have disabled my passenger side as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minimo Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Any performance mods for a '14 2.5 Legacy around here? Header, intake, etc. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halwith Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 You should take it back and get the 3.6l. Probably the best mod you can make to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 ^^That! If you look around, you will find some aftermarket parts. Takeda has a cold air intake for the 2.5i and there are a variety of things you can do with the exhaust. Good luck with your project. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 ^^That! If you look around, you will find some aftermarket parts. Takeda has a cold air intake for the 2.5i and there are a variety of things you can do with the exhaust. Good luck with your project. Oh, you mean the one posted in the "Performance Mod" sticky and not the "Tricks & Tweaks" one?  But I guess, if the OP posts in enough threads without actually doing a search of the forum, someone is bound to do all the work for him, right?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 As you say, even a blind squirrel will likely find a nut. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minimo Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Oh, you mean the one posted in the "Performance Mod" sticky and not the "Tricks & Tweaks" one? Â But I guess, if the OP posts in enough threads without actually doing a search of the forum, someone is bound to do all the work for him, right?. Â Oh, you mean the performance one that has "LGT" in its title? Oh, I'm no the OP either, btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Take this out of the Sticky thread gentlemen. minimo, visit the 5th gen section of the model specific forum and do a search. There you will find a load of threads that were started and never went anywhere..... ... ....because 2.5i is economy car. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 So this morning I finally changed out my headlight bulbs (had the originals in there, and they were noticeably dimmer than when new) - read some of the posts about taking off the bumper, etc. and decided to follow what's in the manual first, then would pull the bumper if I had do. Was expecting to be all cut up and bloody from doing it the hard way, but was pleasantly surprised - I think I know where folks who have had troubles have gone wrong. First, for the first time you try, I would lift the front of the car and take off the front wheels - probably not necessary, but it gives you space. Next - pull the pop-its from the fenderliner - pull the three along the bottom that hold it to the bumper, then undo the two little ones that hold it to the undercover, then undo the large one inside the wheel well and one on the front inner surface of the wheel well liner (I marked the ones to remove on the figure) Now pull the fenderliner out from under the fender, and fold it inwards out of the way (easiest to do if you grab and the front and sort of slide it backwards - there are two metal "hooks" on the edge of the fender you need to lift it up and over) - you don't want to be shy here - make sure it's out of the way (it might not stay there, so you'll need to hold it when you are in there) You'll now have a clear view of the back of the headlights - you want to be reaching straight back, rather than from down below - I think that's where folks go wrong - not pulling the mudguard back enough, then reaching up from below to get to the headlight. Uncsrew the dust cover over the bulb (it only turns about an eighth of a turn) - now you can clearly see the bulb. Remove the connector (it pulls straight off) Remove the metal clip (the clip releases from the left side - you push the end down a bit and it releases from the latch) Pull out the headlight bulb - now look at the back of the headlight at where the bulb goes - the bulb only goes in one way - note where the key is, so that you can put the bulb back in properly. Insert the new bulb (make sure you don't catch the clip) - it should seat flush with the light housing and not rock around. Once you are confident it's flush, pull the clip back over it (push it down to engage it on the hook) then look to make sure it's seated properly Plug in the harness replace the dust cover put the fenderliner back Done! now do the next side. Took me about 10 minutes per side, and I was taking my time - as with almost all repairs, having the room to work is key in getting this done easily. First time out, give yourself as much room as you can - once you know what you need to do, you can try working with less room. I think you could do it without removing the wheels (just turning them) so maybe next time, I'll do it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloodwingg2 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 anyone know how to change units from fahrenheit and mpg to celcius and l/100km or km/l ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 anyone know how to change units from fahrenheit and mpg to celcius and l/100km or km/l ? It might be possible to have this done at the dealership but likely not something you can do on your own: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/convert-temperature-farenheit-celcius-138848p2.html?highlight=l%2F100km VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhst Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 anyone know how to change units from fahrenheit and mpg to celcius and l/100km or km/l ? I had to... http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/000/450/411/103.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 anyone know how to change units from fahrenheit and mpg to celcius and l/100km or km/l ? give your manual a once over. i think i saw it in there when first bought the car. doubt you'll be able to get l/100km tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmmrdwn Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Decided to install a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve. Modified valve to allow more oil to drain from oil pan. Measured to top of oil pan drain plug threads, then reduced height of Fumoto threads by making four drain relief notches. http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab160/BigBopper_01/LGT/P1010003-1_zps547ef6a5.jpg http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab160/BigBopper_01/LGT/P1010001-4_zps3283b975.jpg that is a good idea. I can see how oil would stay below threaded part leaving oil and sediment in bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 There's a write up I did when I installed mine and its in the 5th Gen performance mods sticky. But BigBopper gets credit for the idea. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSTG Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 So this morning I finally changed out my headlight bulbs (had the originals in there, and they were noticeably dimmer than when new) - read some of the posts about taking off the bumper, etc. and decided to follow what's in the manual first, then would pull the bumper if I had do. Was expecting to be all cut up and bloody from doing it the hard way, but was pleasantly surprised - I think I know where folks who have had troubles have gone wrong. First, for the first time you try, I would lift the front of the car and take off the front wheels - probably not necessary, but it gives you space. Next - pull the pop-its from the fenderliner - pull the three along the bottom that hold it to the bumper, then undo the two little ones that hold it to the undercover, then undo the large one inside the wheel well and one on the front inner surface of the wheel well liner (I marked the ones to remove on the figure) Now pull the fenderliner out from under the fender, and fold it inwards out of the way (easiest to do if you grab and the front and sort of slide it backwards - there are two metal "hooks" on the edge of the fender you need to lift it up and over) - you don't want to be shy here - make sure it's out of the way (it might not stay there, so you'll need to hold it when you are in there) You'll now have a clear view of the back of the headlights - you want to be reaching straight back, rather than from down below - I think that's where folks go wrong - not pulling the mudguard back enough, then reaching up from below to get to the headlight. Uncsrew the dust cover over the bulb (it only turns about an eighth of a turn) - now you can clearly see the bulb. Remove the connector (it pulls straight off) Remove the metal clip (the clip releases from the left side - you push the end down a bit and it releases from the latch) Pull out the headlight bulb - now look at the back of the headlight at where the bulb goes - the bulb only goes in one way - note where the key is, so that you can put the bulb back in properly. Insert the new bulb (make sure you don't catch the clip) - it should seat flush with the light housing and not rock around. Once you are confident it's flush, pull the clip back over it (push it down to engage it on the hook) then look to make sure it's seated properly Plug in the harness replace the dust cover put the fenderliner back Done! now do the next side. Took me about 10 minutes per side, and I was taking my time - as with almost all repairs, having the room to work is key in getting this done easily. First time out, give yourself as much room as you can - once you know what you need to do, you can try working with less room. I think you could do it without removing the wheels (just turning them) so maybe next time, I'll do it that way. Just don't do this when it's cold outside. Fevrer doesn't flex week and you'll end up with a cut in it off of one of the molding corners about 1/3 if the way up from the bottom. I think it was only high 40's F when it happened to mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omni Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Check out the Stahlbus oil drain valve, it seems to be pretty good:Â http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Check out the Stahlbus oil drain valve, it seems to be pretty good: http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves  I like that a lot. only problem i could see would be not having the "bayonet" on you when you really need an oil change Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devochka Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Is there any way to change the clock in the dash on a 2011 to 24-hour time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Is there any way to change the clock in the dash on a 2011 to 24-hour time? No Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 For HU model number CE617U1: "To turn loudness on or off: With the unit ON, press and hold 1, 6, and TUNE (right knob.) The display shows LOUD OFF or LOUD ON. To disable fixed EQ: With the unit OFF, press one of these combinations of buttons: 1 + 2 + TUNE for SEDAN 1 + 3 + TUNE for WAGON 1 + 4 + TUNE for THROUGH MODE"  Not sure Loud was on or off by default, but I hear no difference. What is the second set there? I set mine to "sedan" but now what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raguilera510 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Yeah not sure about the fixed eq thing what is that exactly??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Not sure Loud was on or off by default, but I hear no difference.What is the second set there? I set mine to "sedan" but now what? Go with LOUDNESS ON and THROUGH MODE. You should notice a nice difference, even with stock speakers or Kickers/HKs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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