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Lower control arm bushings


SuperhawkLGT

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Heating would work, but pressing them in/out of the aluminum LCA is also very easy. I did my STi LCA bushings on my home press w/o any problem. The cast shape of the aluminum LCA is much easier to support in a press than the stamped/welded steel one.
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We just press em in and out. Only oven we have is for the Otis Spunkmeyer cookies!

 

-mike

 

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11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

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We press them in and out at the shop. But when at home, I use the oven, lol. We used to work from "home" before we moved into the shop.

 

Ah yes the old driveway method. I remember we were laying on the street next to the curb in 4" of running water trying to break knuckle bolts on a brand new 02 wrx to install springs. The good old days.

 

-mike

 

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11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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  • 4 weeks later...

mike- so the oven works with getting the bushing out of the non-aluminum arms?

 

care to explain the cooking procedure?? :-) I'm swapping out with some whitelines that i ordered from you this weekend and don't want to pay the shop $100 to push em out.

 

any help is greatly appreciated.

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I would say $100 is probably a normal going rate for the work (all four lca bushings pressed out and rear pressed back in, aftermarket fronts are a split bushing). Its not about how much time it takes the shop to press them out. Its about the cost of the tools involved as well as the overhead to operate.
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I would say $100 is probably a normal going rate for the work (all four lca bushings pressed out and rear pressed back in, aftermarket fronts are a split bushing). Its not about how much time it takes the shop to press them out. Its about the cost of the tools involved as well as the overhead to operate.

 

Yup we charge $85 which is 1hr of labor to press in/out the bushings on both front LCAs.

 

No one cares about liability, utlities, rent, credit card processing fees, bank fees, purchasing the equipment, paying the mechanic to do the work, etc. They only look at the time it takes and are always quick to say "oh it's quick and easy".

 

:(

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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  • 2 years later...

Shop press would be your friend. With the appropriate tooling dies/receivers.

 

If you don't have those, it will be a pain. You can do it with a drill, hacksaw, and a vise. I wouldn't recommend that at all having done a set before.

 

I did the next set using a shop press with the appropriate dies (I had them made at a shop). Much better. The $150 Harbor Freight shop press is awesome. It will also be your friend when you need to do center differential transfer drive and driven gear bearings :)

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Same deal, lol. On the Aluminum arms the oven is your friend. Heat it up and the old one falls out. If fast about it and the arms are good and hot, the new one can fall right through and not even hold. I have had to cool them to get the new ones in, Lol. Bosch convection oven, shhh, dont tell the wife.

 

Could you give cooking temperature and time for the removal procedure? I don't want to make the house smell like burned bushing and give away the secret to the wife. :spin:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys, heating aluminum to 400° can dramatically change it's strength and doing it without understanding the metallurgy of that specific casting is a profoundly bad idea.

 

Why would you take that risk - or recommend it to others - just to save a few minutes of work with a shop press?

 

Talk about big liability...wow.

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Heating cast aluminum @ 400* for 10-20 mins is not going to change the structure of the metal. Aluminum does not start annealing until temps are at 775* for up to 3 hrs.
My wife's balls are delicious.
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