Flinkly Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 It would of been cheaper and faster to rebuild the deck. [emoji38] truth... well, cept the cheaper part. quotes were around $8k for cedar. spent maybe $500 not including my time and labor. but i did use alot of that. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Concrete wears too. As you can see im all for what makes sense there. I cant get a great feel for the space, so im just 100% sure. I would kinda like pavers over concrete! Better picture I think. Patio is sort of covered, but rain of course still gets in. Heat isn't much of an issue (because bay area), but my plan is to completely cover the patio using the same plastic roofing that's already there. Only in California, dude. So many people have their laundry outside. I will probably look to eventually enclose this area and make it part of the house. But, a lot of other things I want to do first. http://i.imgur.com/K9X5IuS.jpg My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Rip it out and do pavers. Man that roof has to be loud when it rains! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 put a tinted roof like that on the pergola i built at the old house. made a little extra noise in the rain, but nothing major. also just picked up a trim router to clean up a sheet of 3/4 osb subfloor to act as a trial island countertop. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 just installed version 1 of the OSB island countertop. 18" overhang (maximum). too big. will cut down wednesday night for 15" overhang. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Finished laying out the batten boards and string so I could mark post hole locations. Rented the 2 man auger from Home Depot and muscled it with my dad for four hours to get the nine holes made. I still have some clean up to do with a standard post hole digger (tailings falling back into the hole) but otherwise they're done. After clean up, they should be about 40 inches deep, 12 inch diameter, ready for some 6x6 posts. I'm going to do the corner posts first (12 footers) and after that concrete sets, I'll use those posts as the braces to keep the shorter middle posts straight. Going to put ~6 inches of gravel in the bottom of each hole and the rest with concrete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) Is that all for your ground level deck? In California, I literally could just build it on the ground. Some trenches filled with gravel. Stake 4x4s horizontally into the trenches and then build the deck like normal on top of that. I guess that's the advantage of no frost line. Edited July 24, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Awesome! Couldn't skip the three near the house, and just do a ledger board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 I rented an auger once for planting arbovitae. It was awful trying to work in the hard soil. The next time I had to dig a couple holes, I dug them a 6 inches deep, filled them with water and then came back the next day. Took me 5 minutes with a post hole digger to get 3 feet down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Aren't the basement windows in the way for a ledger board? Which would end up making the deck higher and then you have to start worry about water penetration etc? Seems easier to me to keep it all off the house. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 (edited) I'm going to put in some window wells for the windows. Can't do an actual ledger board to masonry. My house is also a legitimate brick frame on the exterior walls (no studs) so there's no good way to secure it. I'm going to use 2x8s for the deck (no spans over about 6.5 feet) and adding a max 1.5" for the deck board thickness, I have about 9-10 inches height. The windows are about 16" tall so I won't completely block them. Deck will slightly slope away from the house. Because of the hose and the electrical conduit, I have to stay about 6" away from the house anyway. I'm still trying to figure out what to do so people/chair legs don't fall into that gap. What can't be seen is where the holes are furthest from the house, the ground is about 6" higher than next to the house, which is a water nightmare. I'm going to have to dig all that out by hand under the deck. Going to dig out the rest of the holes tomorrow I think (final depth with post hole digger) and maybe do the corner posts Wednesday. How deep/much would you guys pour for the concrete? All the way to ground level or stop at about 3/4 depth of the hole? Edited July 25, 2017 by baconbits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 (edited) Nice! Why would you want the concrete (top) to be below grade? Or did I misunderstand...? I would come up past ground level with my concrete piers. Edited July 25, 2017 by jasejase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Also, I could do 2x6 joists (max span 7'10") if I space them 12" OC, assuming 10psf dead load, 80psf live load, and I'm cool with L/360 deflection which is the "standard" deflection allowed in prep'd floors for tile. This would keep the deck shorter and wouldn't block as much of the windows... If it's stiff enough to keep floor tiles from popping... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Nice! Why would you want the concrete (top) to be below grade? Or did I misunderstand...? Just something my neighbor said... he only poured half depth for the posts for his pergola. I didn't know that was a thing which is why I asked. It'd also be a way to save on concrete. If I have 9 holes, 12" diameter roughly (maybe bigger), 6x6 posts (5.5"x5.5" actual), and I pour roughly 36" deep, I'll need 22x 80lb bags of concrete. That's over the payload limit of most pickup trucks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Tile? If you're doing tile, id go plywood and cement board at the very least. I'd still be leary. Shit moves outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Just something my neighbor said... he only poured half depth for the posts for his pergola. I didn't know that was a thing which is why I asked. It'd also be a way to save on concrete. If I have 9 holes, 12" diameter roughly (maybe bigger), 6x6 posts (5.5"x5.5" actual), and I pour roughly 36" deep, I'll need 22x 80lb bags of concrete. That's over the payload limit of most pickup trucks... I wouldn't have any part of my posts below grade. Bad idea me thinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Tile? If you're doing tile, id go plywood and cement board at the very least. I'd still be leary. Shit moves outside. When prepping an indoor floor for tile, they say you need deflection no more than L/360, otherwise the floor bends too much and as we all know, masonry doesn't flex so the tiles pop. Using L/360 deflection as the "standard" with 10 pounds per square foot dead load (weight of the structure itself) along with 80 pounds per square foot live load (what kitchens and other residential gathering areas are sometimes built to), I can do a max span of 7 feet 10 inches on a 2x6 joist if spaced 12" OC. http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc Southern Pine is what most lumber is made from, pressure treated is usually plain ol' "Number 2", non-incised, etc etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Talk to a tile store first. You live in an area that has four seasons. Tile for a specific reason?? Try these things and go with pavers! They look cool as hell. http://silcasystem.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 He is just using it as a comparison for stiffness. I don't think he is actually planning on tiling his outdoor deck? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 i'm with jasejase for once. tile? * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 He is just using it as a comparison for stiffness. I don't think he is actually planning on tiling his outdoor deck? Ahhhh maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 i'm with jasejase for once. tile? For once? Wtf?! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Just stiffness comparison. I'm not tiling an outdoor deck. I'm saying if a floor isn't "springy" for tile, it won't be springy for a normal deck if built with the same or better deflection. People use tile outside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 (edited) After searching yesterday, people do tile exterior "decks". glad you aren't, although you should do whatever if it makes you and/or your significant other happy. who cares about a bunch of blow-hards on the interwebs... As for my renovations, we've been planning to do a kitchen remodel, new flooring throughout (wood all downstairs, carpet all upstairs), and redo our master bath a little (floor, vanity, bathtub tile, shower door...). all before the next kiddo comes. we've been gathering quotes from all over for new kitchen cabinets while we firm up the layout. for background: we hate the tile counters, angled sink, lack of island bar area, and thermal foil and particleboard cabinets just don't look nice, mostly after 20 years. so looks like ~$8.5k for new cabinets. spent over a month working the details and prices... so we wanted to make a decision on who we wanted to go with to get the cabinets last night, but the wife also questioned whether we should even get new cabinets. that spiraled out of control and now we're talking about spending $1.5k to replace 3 base cabinets with "matching" style cabinets (would "flip" the sink essentially), and we'd go ahead and still do everything else we wanted (new counters - including bar on island, etc.). $7k savings, and can just replace the cabinets later with something nice if we want (after the kids grow up... ). i assume i could get my new gas range installed sooner too (it's just sitting in the garage, and most contractors for cabinets can't do the work till september/october timeframe...). Edited July 25, 2017 by Flinkly * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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