StoplightAssassin Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Trench and put drain pipes below the floor level, then cover the foundation with this type of mat: http://www.villaportalen.se/bilder/galleribilder/icopal-grund-2015-vp-fg.jpg It has a large number of "bumps" that shall be towards the wall. It will prevent water from the soil to come into contact with the wall and also prevent any capillary effects because it leaves a small air gap towards the wall. You can still tar the wall from the outside. On the inside - use a paint or panel that breathes so you don't seal humidity into the wall. Yes, but don't do it like this guy. Work with the rubber from the ceiling to the floor, with each lower piece overlapping. But IMO, this is not the way to stop water penetration. You're still allowing water into the foundation. The foundation on the outside should be trenched and then the rubber panels should be placed on the outside. Allowing a lot of water into the foundation is still going to cause problems down the line. Drylock may work for some to stop seepage, but it won't stop a legitimate problem. But before that, you have to figure out WHY there's a buildup of water coming in. A lot of times poor grading is to blame, a gutter(s) not draining/catching roof water properly, clay soil, sump pump not functioning...etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 And since we're on roofs, got two estimates to redo my roof and gutters so far...$7150, $8100, and one more on Monday. The low price so far is actually a pretty reputable company, so I was happy about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) Yes, but don't do it like this guy. Work with the rubber from the ceiling to the floor, with each lower piece overlapping. But IMO, this is not the way to stop water penetration. You're still allowing water into the foundation. The foundation on the outside should be trenched and then the rubber panels should be placed on the outside. Allowing a lot of water into the foundation is still going to cause problems down the line. Drylock may work for some to stop seepage, but it won't stop a legitimate problem. But before that, you have to figure out WHY there's a buildup of water coming in. A lot of times poor grading is to blame, a gutter(s) not draining/catching roof water properly, clay soil, sump pump not functioning...etc This mat is for outdoor use, so it's done right in the picture. Then you of course need proper draining too. Outside the wall and mat. Edited January 17, 2016 by ehsnils Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 This mat is for outdoor use, so it's done right in the picture. Then you of course need proper draining too. Outside the wall and mat. Fair enough, but that looks like a stud in the lower right part of the picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 18, 2016 I Donated Share Posted January 18, 2016 From To Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Nice result, Fulton! Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or do your steps gradually increase in height and decrease in depth from the bottom on up? LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I'll spare everyone the pictures of the actual clog and what came out, but I unclogged a drain full of 75 years of who knows what. Pic below. Laundry sink on left, black pipe is ONLY for the kitchen sink and dishwasher, then off camera 5 feet to the right is a half bathroom (drains disappear into floor) and then 5 feet to the right of that, the main trunk for the house (upstairs full bath and vent stack). Everything functioned 100% fine at breakfast on Sunday. At lunch, kitchen sink would not drain a single drop. Pulled everything apart under the sink, no clogs. Pulled it apart in the basement, thought the clog was in the horizontal PVC pipe at the top. Nope. Borrowed a 15ft 1/4" snake from work and ran that bitch in all the way from the basement floor for about an hour, starting with a foot, then 3, then 5... until I could get the snake in all the way. If I had a 25 foot one, I would've run that in all the way for good measure. Disgusting. I figured I was good when I could dump a 5 gallon bucket of water into the pipe and it didn't back up coupled with the stench of raw sewage permeating my basement. Rebuilt the vertical pipe with a clean out just in case I need to do it again. Ran HOT water down the sink for probably 20 minutes hoping to break up any other solids in the pipe, dumped some dish soap to hopefully dissolve some crud with some more hot water... seems to drain well now. It's nice rejoining the early 20th century with functioning indoor plumbing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Next time you shut off your water and drain the pipes, replace those old gate valves! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 19, 2016 I Donated Share Posted January 19, 2016 Nice result, Fulton! Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or do your steps gradually increase in height and decrease in depth from the bottom on up? Optical illusion. But the stringer on the left side is curved. Took a while to figure out how to deal with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 19, 2016 Moderators Share Posted January 19, 2016 Next time you shut off your water and drain the pipes, replace those old gate valves! Why? Seems like a waste of time / money unless you are concerned about leaking in the future. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Why? Seems like a waste of time / money unless you are concerned about leaking in the future. Well... Yeah. They suck. More importantly, they usually stop working correctly and never fully open nor close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 19, 2016 Moderators Share Posted January 19, 2016 Well... Yeah. They suck. More importantly, they usually stop working correctly and never fully open nor close. Hmm. I haven't seen that in my own interactions. Granted I like the ball valves, 1/4 turns, etc, but everything gate valve I've ever interacted with has worked properly as well. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I've had nearly the opposite experience. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 19, 2016 Moderators Share Posted January 19, 2016 Well shit "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Next time you shut off your water and drain the pipes, replace those old gate valves! Looks like a case of "don't touch unless you have a lot of replacement items at hand". Some of those pipes may even be brittle from age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Looks like a case of "don't touch unless you have a lot of replacement items at hand". Some of those pipes may even be brittle from age. Ignoring worn parts also has its downside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) Gate valves will be replaced sooner or later. I've replaced two thus far on the cold side manifold, one for the hot water tank supply and the other for the outdoor spigot on the back side of the house. MAPP FTW for stuff like that... much faster than propane, although propane gets the job done. These gate valves are likely original to the house so they're as jase describes - never fully open nor fully close. They also weep out of the stem, which can be temporarily remedied by tightening the nut that secures the stem 1/8 turn or so. Quarter turn ball valves will end up replacing all of them. The only way I can shut off water to places that aren't serviced by new valves is to shut the water off to the house at the main. The copper isn't brittle, thankfully. It's tougher than the new stuff I've put in. Of the M and L types of copper (ones for HVAC, other for supply I think?), the stuff in my house is thicker than the supply line stuff which is already thicker than the HVAC one, so I've got that going for me. /caddyshack You are right though, that it's a lot of replacement parts in both couplers, pipe, and more expensively, the valves. The ball valves I've been using are almost 10 bucks a pop and I'd need 10-12 to replace everything. Edited January 19, 2016 by baconbits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I'm a fan with going back with ball valves where I can... and the 1/4 turn valves at sinks/toilets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) Wrapped up redoing my basement after the plastic waterline to my ice maker burst while I was away for the weekend. No more paneling and drop ceiling...now drywall everywhere, insulation, LED lighting, new carpet, windows, doors, and tile by the garage door, etc. Sucks.... Was it the line inside the fridge, or the supply line? I replaced my saddle valve and plastic line with a ball valve and braided stainless line. That line always causes me fear! Yes, but don't do it like this guy. Work with the rubber from the ceiling to the floor, with each lower piece overlapping. But IMO, this is not the way to stop water penetration. You're still allowing water into the foundation. The foundation on the outside should be trenched and then the rubber panels should be placed on the outside. Allowing a lot of water into the foundation is still going to cause problems down the line. Drylock may work for some to stop seepage, but it won't stop a legitimate problem. But before that, you have to figure out WHY there's a buildup of water coming in. A lot of times poor grading is to blame, a gutter(s) not draining/catching roof water properly, clay soil, sump pump not functioning...etc Yeah, dry-lock is great and all, but it's for minimal issues. I put it on my foundation walls where I could (prior to finishing), but not with great expectations. There are two different schools of thought for basement water... Stop the problem, or deal with the problem. Nearly all those basement-system companies deal with the issues, which is fine. Sometimes, that is the best solution. However, if you want to fix the issue, that can be an undertaking. Inclusive of regrading, relocating downspouts, curtain drains, foundation repairs, and membranes on the exterior foundation walls. That plastic foundation membrane is typically sold in rolls that are to the desired height that you need, so there's no seam. They make another product that you glue/tar into place and roll the seams that is more of a rubbery material. That usually goes up floor to ceiling. There's new products coming out every day in regards to keeping basement dry. Or so it appears! And since we're on roofs, got two estimates to redo my roof and gutters so far...$7150, $8100, and one more on Monday. The low price so far is actually a pretty reputable company, so I was happy about that. How many square? When we got our roof done, I got quotes from $7000 to $14000. Crazy. From To Nice! Did you end up replacing any of the treads or risers? Or were you able to restore all of them. I love the white risers. I went with them in our mudroom. BUT, they are constantly catching black scuffs from shoes. Edited January 19, 2016 by jasejase typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) I'm a fan with going back with ball valves where I can... and the 1/4 turn valves at sinks/toilets. I meant to write ball valves but somehow gate was typed. Quarter turn everywhere I can too... just added some under my kitchen sink when I replaced my faucet a couple weeks ago. I went to remove the old one to find no shut offs in the cabinet. I love this old house. Sometimes. Edited January 19, 2016 by baconbits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picky1 Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Sucks.... Was it the line inside the fridge, or the supply line? I replaced my saddle valve and plastic line with a ball valve and braided stainless line. That line always causes me fear! Yeah, dry-lock is great and all, but it's for minimal issues. I put it on my foundation walls where I could (prior to finishing), but not with great expectations. The supply line broke off the inline filter that I had. Basically the plastic line just got old sprung a leak and after spraying around for a couple days before completely coming apart. Nothing like pulling up to your house after being gone for 4 days wondering why the driveway is wet and then open the garage door to a flood of water. Now have a proper ball valve with braided stainless line, along with a new fridge. But I find it odd that they still use plastic lines on the back of the fridge to feed the ice-maker and water dispenser. Haven't had problems with water in the basement before, but since we stripped everything out, I went ahead and treated the foundation walls with dry-lock...even the new latex version stinks beyond belief! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 19, 2016 I Donated Share Posted January 19, 2016 Nice! Did you end up replacing any of the treads or risers? Or were you able to restore all of them. I love the white risers. I went with them in our mudroom. BUT, they are constantly catching black scuffs from shoes. The stair structure is prefab. I cut off the lips at the front of each tread and nailed the Brazilian cherry treads and white-primed pine risers onto the existing structure. Planning on painting the risers with a really good paint that will resist scuffs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 yeah, I think I used three coats of enamel... it still scuffs. Keep extra paint and touch up once a year. magic eraser for some of them too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Finally put paint down since the GF was back at work today. I did about 20ft of moulding, all told. Here's before / after from that unsightly corner. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=223163&stc=1&d=1453229466 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=223164&stc=1&d=1453229466 It's not quite "good"... but it is definitely "better"! The radiator in the corner of this pic is almost ready for paint, too. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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