baconbits Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 Looks like the color of our hall bathroom. Nice work. Floor is cool. Is that marble plank? Thanks. Faux marble... it's got a very slight texture to it. Just a regular ol' Home Depot "porcelain" ceramic. My girlfriend refused real marble (only about twice as expensive) because she knew she would slip on it. Tiles are 6x24 plank. I painted professionally for about 10 years for my dad's business while going through highschool/college. That "OH Shit" moment happens more than you could think. Dad has been painting for like 35 years, and he always suggests going at least 1 or 2 shades lighter than the swatch you actually pick. It's really interesting to see how the color changes when its on the entire wall, especially how it changes from the cut to having a single wall done, to having the entire room finished. Bathroom looks good man! I just did my bathroom about 8 months ago, said and done with a new vanity/tub/floor and I think I was right around 1200... Most of my time was spent in skimming the walls because I had to remove the 60's baby blue 2x2in tiles from every wall...what a pain in the ass that was. I think the Oh Shit moment was more because I painted at noon on a sunny day in a completely white (drywall primer everywhere) room... made the blue look darker than it was only having one brush stroke up in a corner. After I had the first couple walls painted, it came together and I knew it was the right color. I tried the light fixture with soft white bulbs (2700k) and hated the yellow glow because it kind of detracted from the clean, bright, neat feel of the room. Grabbed some daylight bulbs (6500k) for a whiter light and like it a lot more. The seem far brighter too, 60w vs 60w. I'm glad everyone can ignore the brown, 75 year old casement window. It's hideous but that's a project for next year maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 Paint the casement window frame and mullions white. Should only take an hour or two and will make a huge difference. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 No small project ever takes just an hour or two. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted July 30, 2015 I Donated Share Posted July 30, 2015 (edited) What's the hole in the wall? Our bathroom reno was pretty expensive relative to the ones you guys did. Probably due to the size of the room. It ended up being $3800ish, by my estimates. Biggest items were $1300 for the vanity (actually pretty cheap for 60" dual sink), $900 for the shower enclosure, and $275 for the floor (55 sq ft of black granite tile). But I'm guessing the new bathroom means $10k+ in new equity once I finish up the last few minor finish items. Edited July 30, 2015 by thefultonhow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 No small project ever takes just an hour or two. Lol If the window is going to be replaced next year, it doesn't need to be perfect. Quick coat of white paint will make the room look more finished. 2 hours, max. Any longer and you're being a perfectionist and doing it wrong. Its just temporary for looks. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 What's the hole in the wall? Our bathroom reno was pretty expensive relative to the ones you guys did. Probably due to the size of the room. It ended up being $3800ish, by my estimates. Biggest items were $1300 for the vanity (actually pretty cheap for 60" dual sink), $900 for the shower enclosure, and $275 for the floor (55 sq ft of black granite tile). But I'm guessing the new bathroom means $10k+ in new equity once I finish up the last few minor finish items. Laundry chute down to the basement is the hole towards the left a couple feet up. The one on the bottom is HVAC. I'm all about bang for buck. Considering in a couple years, I'll be renovating the upstairs (currently attic space with a rough bedroom) into a master suite by adding a bathroom, that'll be the nicer bathroom of the two full baths in the house. Kitchen will have some splurge-factor too... possibly quartz for the counter tops, slate tile floor, etc. I might go the modern route and do a cheaper concrete counter top... who knows at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 (edited) Lots of stuffs going on with our house... So my wife and I found out we're having a baby (yay!) so of course we had to paint the nursery and get some furniture That room used to be my office, and thus my office got moved downstairs into a dark and dingy corner... had to build some shelves for all of my text books We had some lights installed in the basement (city code won't allow me to install myself, so we had to call an electrician) BEFORE: AFTER: Also got some outlets installed in the ceiling so we can watch football on the weekends with our projector and soundbar setup Painting the baseboards Did some landscaping and added some tree rings in the front yard And lastly, ripped out all of the old dingy shelving in the cellar, painted the block walls, and installed some new shelving. Real brick flooring will be installed sometime soon Edited August 18, 2015 by SCHM1AN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Technically I should have most of what I've done inspected (electrician) but most of that code is common sense... Every stud and joist that has electrical or plumbing running through it covered by drywall has the metal plates over it to prevent drywall screws from puncturing the wires or pipes. 20a outlets on 15a or 20a breaker circuits. All wiring is 12ga romex, not tied into knob and tube. All knob and tube is terminated in accessible, plastic boxes with proper connectors and tape... etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Technically I should have most of what I've done inspected (electrician) but most of that code is common sense... Every stud and joist that has electrical or plumbing running through it covered by drywall has the metal plates over it to prevent drywall screws from puncturing the wires or pipes. 20a outlets on 15a or 20a breaker circuits. All wiring is 12ga romex, not tied into knob and tube. All knob and tube is terminated in accessible, plastic boxes with proper connectors and tape... etc. There are a few things that surprise most people.... Like the use of fire block caulk in any hole (for wiring, plumbing, etc) in studs/framing; around the pipe, wire, etc... And also volume limits within an electrical box. Proper wire nut sizing, etc. The only thing I got hit on during my last inspection was the fire block caulk (about 6 years ago). I didn't even know that was a thing. Not sure if it's local or NFPC. Most local is based on national code, so im guessing its national. Take it all with a grain of salt... Im not an expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Shimmy - the house looks good! I like the beer collection are you finishing the ceiling now that you have can lights? Also, that sucks about the electrical work. Are you sure on that? Most of the time, they require a licensed contractor if you are to use a contractor. Otherwise, they still make you apply for the permit, and do a final inspection to make sure you did it to code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I thought the fire block caulk/foam was only needed when transitioning through floors and not every stud/joist opening? Liquid Nails makes some and I know Great Stuff makes an expanding fire foam for larger holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 19, 2015 Moderators Share Posted August 19, 2015 If you caulk every single hole that a wire goes through, that would make any future removal such a royal pain in the ass. Sounds crazy, and unsafe in the long run since it would prevent reasonable removal of old wiring? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Any air gabs in wood framing creates an opportunity to fire to intensify from what I can gather. You're right though, doing wire pulls through the walls would be a pain in the a$$, unless you run it at the top plate and come down into the stud bay. Perhaps if you use fire-retardant insulation (like safe n sound), the requirement changes... Im not sure. You will run into the same, non-user-friendly issues, when it comes to spray foam insulation too. You cant do any wire pulls with remote ease. I guess conduit can solve some of these issues, yet again, im not sure what the FPC says about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted August 19, 2015 I Donated Share Posted August 19, 2015 Also, that sucks about the electrical work. Are you sure on that? Most of the time, they require a licensed contractor if you are to use a contractor. Otherwise, they still make you apply for the permit, and do a final inspection to make sure you did it to code. Same where I live. Technically, in my county, only a licensed contractor can do electrical or plumbing work. The homeowner is not allowed to do anything beyond replacing an existing switch, outlet, or plumbing/electrical fixture. Needless to say, I have ignored this. I did find a local company that skirts this requirement by pulling the permit for you and doing an inspection to make sure the work is up to code. Any major projects I do in the future will go through them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picky1 Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Just finished up redoing our main bathroom with LOTS of help from my friends. Next up is redoing my finished basement as we just had the waterline to the ice-maker break while we were away on vacation and came home to several inches of water! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj808 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 I know its not a home improvement thing but the builders pour the concrete for my new house tomorrow! Its a 4 bd 2.5 bath 2300 square foot 2 story new house! Closing day is approx 29 Dec but Im betting that it will get pushed to the right due to winter weather delays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 9, 2015 I Donated Share Posted September 9, 2015 I know its not a home improvement thing but the builders pour the concrete for my new house tomorrow! Its a 4 bd 2.5 bath 2300 square foot 2 story new house! Closing day is approx 29 Dec but Im betting that it will get pushed to the right due to winter weather delays. Nice! Woulda gone one story if I were you, though. Thanks for bumping this post, BTW. Was just about to go look for it so I could post my (mostly) finished bathroom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 I'm glad I'm not the only one who installs outlets "upside down." I love the color scheme but there's zero chance I could talk my girlfriend into the black tile. As far as the ranch versus two story, a ranch is actually the most expensive style to build per square foot according to a friend in the business. He's been wrong before (especially about car things ) but it makes sense when you think about it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 As far as the ranch versus two story, a ranch is actually the most expensive style to build per square foot according to a friend in the business. He's been wrong before (especially about car things ) but it makes sense when you think about it... Sure does to me. Around the MD/DC/VA area, land is $$$ like I'm sure many places are. For the same sq ft between a 2 story and a ranch, it's a no brainier which is more expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 9, 2015 I Donated Share Posted September 9, 2015 I'm glad I'm not the only one who installs outlets "upside down." Safer that way. Used to piss me off when I was a kid and had directional plugs and wall warts facing the wrong way, but I have seen the light. I love the color scheme but there's zero chance I could talk my girlfriend into the black tile. I was fine with dark gray, but my wife insisted on the black granite. In hindsight, I'm glad she did. It looks awesome. As far as the ranch versus two story, a ranch is actually the most expensive style to build per square foot according to a friend in the business. He's been wrong before (especially about car things [emoji38] ) but it makes sense when you think about it... A ranch with a full basement is probably the worst. All that extra square footage of below grade stuff... Totally worth it though. Sure does to me. Around the MD/DC/VA area, land is $$$ like I'm sure many places are. For the same sq ft between a 2 story and a ranch, it's a no brainier which is more expensive. Same up here, but my area is zoned for low density residential (quarter acre and up lots -- ours is half an acre), so at that rate you might as well go for a rancher. Of course, we're the only rancher in the neighborhood. Colonials just seem to be more popular around here independent of land cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 Yay, I have a ranch with a full basement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 A ranch with a full basement is probably the worst. All that extra square footage of below grade stuff... Yup. More roofing costs too. I believe he said something about more exterior wall area as well so it's more expensive to heat and cool too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 Roofing costs I can attest to. Especially with an attached 2 car garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 9, 2015 I Donated Share Posted September 9, 2015 Depends on how complex the roof is. Ours is about as simple as they come. Six rectangular surfaces, no perpendicular rooflines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) Roofing costs I can attest to. Especially with an attached 2 car garage. My 1350 sqft bungalow with a 3 layer tear off, 9/12 pitch, 3 small dormers, and 2 chimneys was $4900 after "$500 senior discount" before my grandma sold the house to me. 2500sqft+ ranch with attached garage... Edited September 9, 2015 by baconbits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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