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CapnJack

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Roofing costs I can attest to. Especially with an attached 2 car garage.

 

Depends on how complex the roof is. Ours is about as simple as they come. Six rectangular surfaces, no perpendicular rooflines.

 

I'm in same boat as you, jase. But our roof is about as simple as it gets. Single line across the house, just two big surfaces (front / back) to shingle. Speaking of, I need to price that out to make sure we are squirreling enough away for a few years from now...

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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My roof is a hip roof, so it's got a touch more roofing surface, with a simple gabled roof, attached garage. It's about 22 sq. When I got it done 6 or so years ago - estimates were between 8-14k. I think it ended up costing up about 9000 and change.
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the last few big storms that raged through the valley have destroyed my roof. im calling insurance to see if i can get them to replace it. its about 19 years old anyway.

 

Usually they will just pay to patch the parts that are messed up, no? And you will hike your premiums with that kind of claim, so it's not really worth it.

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Because the roof is so old, they'll probably just pay out a portion to patch the bad spots. That's what happened when the remnants of Hurricane Sandy rolled through Ohio... my roof was over $5000 and they only gave my grandma (previous owner of the house) like $1200 to patch spots on her 25+ year old roof.

 

She ended up putting the $1200 towards the cost of the complete new roof, 3 layer tear off, etc.

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Because the roof is so old, they'll probably just pay out a portion to patch the bad spots. That's what happened when the remnants of Hurricane Sandy rolled through Ohio... my roof was over $5000 and they only gave my grandma (previous owner of the house) like $1200 to patch spots on her 25+ year old roof.

 

She ended up putting the $1200 towards the cost of the complete new roof, 3 layer tear off, etc.

 

 

Probably not. Depends on the policy and a few important variables, but that's not the norm. Unless there's some odd precedent in your state.

 

It was probably a depreciated estimate.

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  • 3 months later...

Reno-bump!

 

I'm reclaiming some space with hand tools... this is an ugly little section of the living room, in the corner by the built-in steam radiator. There's at least 1/4" of paint buildup, three sets of buried wires, and the wrong moulding. The good stuff is under there, though (nominal 1920's hard wood).

 

I've been biting off one corner at a time, so I thought I'd share some before and durings. Paint will be on tomorrow, after a quick sand and touch-up fill. Then I'll put the chisel away for another six months :lol:

 

Don't mind that little broken guy, should've glued him from the start.

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LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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Damn that looks tedious! Nice work!

 

Need some practice, muddin' though :)

 

:lol:

 

Looks like water damage. What happened?

 

Thanks mang, definitely tedious work.

 

Just old, old plaster. The steam radiator has probably taken it's toll on the whole area, but the paint is indicative of the entire apartment. The floor, moulding, and wall are also far from true, or 90's.

 

The boogers on the mud are from going over it again, and ought to be fine with a a quick pass of sandpaper. The skinny section is definitely rough though, I need a thin putty knife :redface:

 

Here's what it looked like before I went over the mud a second time to shave a little (when putting it on this thick, I usually do that when it's half dry to save time in the sanding process).

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=222810&stc=1&d=1452746073

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LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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Swapping out the electric stove.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/14/69f55d24ec4c6e4d3dfca06878eb9cb9.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/14/83426ee149a60c39f5b613db089ecb49.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/14/46762ce1cdb2f9499d740f4b2ba041ff.jpg

16' Legacy Mods: 55w HID + XB35 5500k, LEDS upgrades, XB Type T Fog, 20mm SB.

Custom Footwell Illiminate Kit; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/15-legacy-outback-footwell-illumination-kit-237567.html

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Wrapped up redoing my basement after the plastic waterline to my ice maker burst while I was away for the weekend. No more paneling and drop ceiling...now drywall everywhere, insulation, LED lighting, new carpet, windows, doors, and tile by the garage door, etc.

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I wish I could do something like that in my basement but it's too damp. All I want is a man cave type thing.

 

Why is it too damp? Gotta be some sort or reason or reasons that you could address over time...?

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Clay block circa early 1940s can't be "waterproofed" with typical paints like Drylok. Per the mold remediation company I had in 2 years ago, the pores in the block are too small to have the paint stick properly. My neighbor attempted to waterproof his walls but noticed it didn't help with the humidity because now it all came up through the floor.

 

The only recourse I have is to trench around the house and have the block tarred and insulated I suppose, new french drains at the foundation, etc. Because the lots are so narrow in my neighborhood, I'd end up having to remove half my driveway for about 30 feet along the house and potentially some of my neighbor's driveway. All see are dollar signs.

 

My side of the street is built into a hill somewhat. If you're standing on the front sidewalk looking straight ahead, you're looking at ground level at the house about 30 feet away, if that makes any sense. The back of the house is the worst as it's on the high side of the hill.

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The only recourse I have is to trench around the house and have the block tarred and insulated I suppose, new french drains at the foundation, etc. Because the lots are so narrow in my neighborhood, I'd end up having to remove half my driveway for about 30 feet along the house and potentially some of my neighbor's driveway. All see are dollar signs.

 

Trench and put drain pipes below the floor level, then cover the foundation with this type of mat:

http://www.villaportalen.se/bilder/galleribilder/icopal-grund-2015-vp-fg.jpg

 

It has a large number of "bumps" that shall be towards the wall. It will prevent water from the soil to come into contact with the wall and also prevent any capillary effects because it leaves a small air gap towards the wall.

 

You can still tar the wall from the outside.

 

On the inside - use a paint or panel that breathes so you don't seal humidity into the wall.

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