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How hard is it to install door speakers?


Sioux-BRue

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You do need spacers (see the link in my signiture). And the process is fairly easy.

 

Drop me a PM and I can hook you up with both spacers and a full write-up (I am working right now on a how-to website, but for now I can send you some simple directions).

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How do you get the door panels off?

 

Is there the potential to crack the pannels or break a clip/fastener, causing a rattle? How to avoid that?

 

Where to install the deadening material within the door? Just against the back side of the exterior sheetmetal?

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phenryiv1 puts out a good product, but I used the OEM speakers as spacers. I removed the actual speaker from the plastic, and just screwed the new speaker into the plastic ring that was left. Maybe not the best way to do it, but it was free.

Depending on the size of the aftermarket speaker (the actual cutout diameter as well as the mounting diameter) this is definitely an option. Many after market 6.5" or 6.75" speakers are too large to do this, btu some will fit just fint. It just sucks to get the doors apart and get ready to install and then realize that your aftermarket speakers don't work in the gutted OEM speakers and now you are stuck without spacers.

 

One other consideration (not that all people will care about this), but gutting the OEM speakers makes it difficult to go back to stock when selling or trading in, but that may not be a factor.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Do you sell spacers for a 91? I threw some new speakers in the other day and realized the hard way i need them after the window wont roll down all the way heh. Doesnt really bother me but i would be interested in the spacers.

 

I am 90% sure that they do fit your 91 (at least one of my 2 front-door designs), but I don't have one to test them in so I don't advertise them as fitting.

 

Do you have any pictures of your original speakers? If so, please email me at patrickhenry at gmail.com and we can confirm fit. I'll have you take a couple quick measurements.

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The stock speakers have a rain shield over the top of them (a good design IMO, especially where I live).

 

Have any of ya'll tried to replicate that rein shield over the top of your aftermarket speakers? If so, how? (Thanks to mrmako for the pic)

 

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/5779/11670683dn0.jpg

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The stock speakers have a rain shield over the top of them (a good design IMO, especially where I live).

 

Have any of ya'll tried to replicate that rein shield over the top of your aftermarket speakers? If so, how? (Thanks to mrmako for the pic)

 

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/5779/11670683dn0.jpg

 

 

One option is to buy a pair of XTC baffles from somewhere like crutchfield.

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZcW2sXLjOQl/p_237XT65/XTC-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-3-1-4-depth.html

 

I don't recommend using the full "bowl" to seal around the speaker (if water does get in them, they become a breeding ground fro rust, mold, etc.).

 

My recommendation is to cut each into a half-bowl and use one of the half-bowls for each door. Thus, one set is enough for all 4 doors.

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My recommendation is to cut each into a half-bowl and use one of the half-bowls for each door. Thus, one set is enough for all 4 doors.

 

Agreed, but I'd only cut the backside, leaving the mating surface intact. Otherwise you have uneven gasketing between the driver and bracket.

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Agreed, but I'd only cut the backside, leaving the mating surface intact. Otherwise you have uneven gasketing between the driver and bracket.

You could (in theory) get around this if you were using something like weatherstripping as a full gasket. In that case, the compression of the main gasket, combined with the compression of the 1/2 gasket would still make a tight seal.

 

Again, theory- not practice.

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In my 08 LGT I just cut the factory speaker out of the housing it was in, and used the housing as a spacer for my focal drivers. I didn't have any issues with spacing, the mount is solid, no rattles or leaks and the spacing is clear of the window and the door panel.

 

worse case scenario, if and when I get rid of the LGT, I'll just have to buy some cheap $10 speakers at wal-mart because I won't have a factory speaker to replace it.

1329889273944.jpg.806c38c101c87abed0635c18caae5b81.jpg

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This might be a stupid question: Why can't you use the OEM Speaker brackets to mount the new Speakers in the doors? I just purchased Alpine 610 - Coaxials for the rear doors and Component speakers for the front doors from Amazon. Crutchfield supplies the brackets for free, Amazon doesn't. Will The brackets from Crutchfield work? They can be ordered separately.

 

THX - Even though I'm an Oldie....I'm a Noobie to car audio installations.

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I don't know why anyone would waste money on upgrading drivers and then just toss them into the door on top of those skimpy plastic factory adapters.

 

I did an experiment once with a car where I properly treated one door and not the other. One had a small amount of damping mat applied, sealing the air space as well as possible, adding a soundproofing barrier and foam isolation layer. I built a proper baffle for the driver from 20mm MDF (PE is just as good) and bolted that solidly to the door. The other door had just the factory plastic rainproof sheet and flimsy plastic adapter thing.

In the treated door I installed the factory paper woofer with whizzer cone. In the untreated door I installed a PA MW165 driver, something in the quality range of a Seas Lotus with aluminum cone, double the xmax and a copper shorting plate. Both sides were powered from the same power amp. Both sides were set with a high-pass filter of 80hz @ 24db/oct since that is a fair test for any typical 6.5" midwoofer. I used a calibrated Behringer microphone and 4-channel RTA for the test, set in the middle of the car near the shift lever, and tested each side independantly, with the doors closed for best cabin gain.

For the first test I used the same level settings for both sides and got a much higher overall response from the treated door and factory driver. To be fair, the factory driver is expected to have higher efficiency than the DIY driver. I lowered the gain setting at the amp until the peak values matched to compensate for the efficiency and repeated the test. The treated door and stock driver still showed a far smoother overall curve and far better response from peak down to the crossover point.

 

Why is this? Surely you would expect the fancy aftermarket driver to be better, right?

 

1. Bare metal panels without a pressed form vibrate in sympathy with sound waves presented to them. The outside panel of the door is very flat and not very thick. It vibrates like a speaker diaphragm when excited by sound waves coming either from outside or inside the door, like a passing truck or a speaker operating inside the door. This vibration causes noise which then passes into the cabin and cancels or adds to the sound waves coming off the driver inside the door. Reducing this vibration or lowering resonant frequency by add mass reduces distortion and noise, improving sound quality.

 

2. A driver creates sound by moving air. Unfortunately the back of the cone also moves air, as much as the front, but 180* out of phase and in the opposite direction. Place the driver in front of a sheet of metal like the outer door skin and that wave will bounce off that panel and pass straight back into the vehicle. The thin plastic of the trim panel is almost transparent to sound waves below a few khz, so now you have all this sound canceling or adding to the waves from the front of the driver. To make it worse, the waves cancel at some frequencies and add at others, meaning you get a very saw-tooth shaped response curve (it's call comb-filtering).

It's absolutely necessary to kill these reflected waves before they pass into the cabin, which requires a soundproof barrier much more effective that the door trim, and also preferably one that is sealed to the door panel.

 

3. A solid baffle is required to mount the driver to the door frame as rigidly as possible to acoustically couple the two. This drastically improves response, especially in the lower octaves. An MDF or PE baffle is ideal for this, as large and heavy as possible, and preferably using a 'gasket' of non-hardening modeling clay to couple it.

 

If you would spend the same money at the hardware store as you planned to spend at the electronics store, plus a few hours of DIY, you'd actually come up with a final result that is much more pleasing to your ears. The most common complaint of all on the audio forums is 'I spent $XXX on XXX drivers and I still have no midbass!'. In every case this person has not properly installed the drivers and thinks the drivers themselves will perform better just because they're more expensive.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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So... what are you saying then? (wink)

I think that he is saying to buy or make spacers/adapters like mine and don't put $300s speaker in $2 repurposed OEM housings.

 

:lol:

 

In all seriousness, I started making and selling them not to make money (which I don't make much), but instead to help owners do the install correctly and get their speakers in the car with as little of a problem as possible. What I charge for a pair of spacers is what I'd be wliing to pay to NOT have to take a trip to the hardware store and to spend time in the shop figuring out how to make them right. I spent hours doing R&D on my design to get it right on the first install, tracing OEM speakers, transferring templates for the aftermarket speaker, being sure to clear the door panel, etc. From there I have revised the design a half dozen times.

 

If I were to start again from scratch, I could get it right in about an hour. But if someone had offered me a ready-made solution before I started, I would have taken that and never made my own product.

 

I bought 3 different brands of other adapters/spacers and junked 1, used 1 as a partial template, and returned the 3rd one because it just did not fit.

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So I'm seriously considering ripping my system out of my Z32 and putting it in my LGT, since I see 50X more road time in the LGT. Front and rear speakers are Focal Polyglass, components up front, midbass only in the back. Could I fit these with your adapters?

 

Polyglass.jpg

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So I'm seriously considering ripping my system out of my Z32 and putting it in my LGT, since I see 50X more road time in the LGT. Front and rear speakers are Focal Polyglass, components up front, midbass only in the back. Could I fit these with your adapters?

 

Polyglass.jpg

Definately.

 

I have several pictures in my vendor sale thread of spacers that I made for the Polyglass and Access lines from Focal.

 

I even shipped 2 sets (F&R) last week for the just-released line of new Focals...I think that they are the V30 or something like that (can't remember off of the top of my head).

 

One set was for a 2012 WRX and the other was for an 05-09 LGT.

 

Edit: Somewhere on this page: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/3-4-pvc-door-speaker-spacers-adapters-made-order-142882p5.html

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