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05 lgt best first mods?


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I have 05 legacy gt new to the subaru family . I really love the car coming from a 92 talons just wondering the best first mods I'm fimilar wither the engine considering my buddy has a ago but that's all . Please help looking to get 300hp daily driver to the wheels I want to go cheap as posible but I'm not a cheap Ass not wanting to spend money is 5k a reasonable budget?
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First off, welcome to the forum

 

Learn how to check the oil and keep it topped off, NEVER let the oil get to low.

 

Change the oil and filter every 3500 miles.

 

Leave the stock air intake alone, it's hard to beat.

 

You'll need to make sure the up pipe has been replaced with a catless one.

 

You can do a down pipe when you replace the up. I went catless and a vf52 with stock injectors and make 280whp. For 300 you'll need turbo, injectors, and fuel pump.

 

You may want to re-think cheap...

 

Oh make sure hte banjo filter inthe back of the passenger side head is removed.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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You can do a down pipe when you replace the up. I went catless and a vf52 with stock injectors and make 280whp. For 300 you'll need turbo, injectors, and fuel pump.

 

First if you change the up pipe or down pipe DO NOT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE WITHOUT A TUNE!

 

Also if you want cheap but reliable your stock turbo can make 300 with up pipe down pipe, boost controller, CBE and I had a frount mount with a CAI. You mainly just need to find yourself a good tuner before modding anything really.

 

My stg 2+ dyno

http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy296/JLB1615/a010741c.jpg

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i recommend the Hogzaust -- it is an easy $5 mod that dramatically deepens the exhaust sound and creates the trademark subaru 'rumble' . basically, you just unbolt the exhaust mufflers, slip two washers in between the connecting pipe pieces, then bolt it back together...

 

instructions here...

All that was done was to purchase 8 3/8" washers from a hardware store. Remove 2 bolts and nuts from muffler flange, remove gasket, put 2 washers on each bolt inbetween the flanges, and tighten nut back down. This creates a 1/4" gap - and this was all that was done to create your very own hogzaust. Enjoy!!

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hogzaust-installation-relatively-painfreei-146887.html

There is nothing to be gained by giving your car a exhaust leak. Please, do not do this "mod". :rolleyes:

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+1 on the Hogzaust. Sounds great and it's cheap. Had it on my lgt before i upgraded to greddy evo 2.

 

-skip the intake silencer delete mod. It makes a bit more noise but not worth the decrease in MPG/performance(at least i felt it)

 

-clear/black out the headlight- the amber bugged me from the day I got the car. shouldnt have waited a year to do it.

 

-Get the smoked overlay taillight tint from zag300zx (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-tail-light-overlays-smoked-oval-cutouts-05-07-112198.html) Worth every penny IMO!

 

-Get Jazzymod so you can have an AUX IN for your radio

 

I know you mentioned performance but I recommended all cosmetics/audio. I'm such a ricer :lol:

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First if you change the up pipe or down pipe DO NOT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE WITHOUT A TUNE!

 

Also if you want cheap but reliable your stock turbo can make 300 with up pipe down pipe, boost controller, CBE and I had a frount mount with a CAI. You mainly just need to find yourself a good tuner before modding anything really.

 

When you say tune can a Cobb tuberculosis be uses or do I have to get a prof tune at a tune shop closest dump is close to 400 miles away as far as I know

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First if you change the up pipe or down pipe DO NOT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE WITHOUT A TUNE!

 

Also if you want cheap but reliable your stock turbo can make 300 with up pipe down pipe, boost controller, CBE and I had a frount mount with a CAI. You mainly just need to find yourself a good tuner before modding anything really.

 

When you say tune can a Cobb (tuner be uses or do I have to get a prof tune at a tune shop closest dump is close to 400 miles away as far as I know

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When you say tune ? Will Cobb tuner work or do you mean dyno tune closest tune shop with dyno is that I know of is 400 miles away

 

Find a tuner in the area that will hook everything up to your car go to the interstate and do some pulls to make sure everything is spot on. You can get a road dyno though for better numbers I would get an actual dyno pull. And for minor mods you could use a access port but I think you should just put they money into more mods and just get an open source tune. Cobb basic maps are really only safe for limited mods. I also wouldnt use two step or antilag unless you care for your engine.

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Probably the best first mod for your car is to read though all the 4th gen and tuning stickies... TWICE. Then buy things for the car. Treat your car how you treat yourself. Thoughtfully and plan not to have to do things more than once, by planning. My 2c as someone who as had 2 sets of headers, on my 3rd turbo, 4th intercooler, etc. Its kind-of a "wise man learns from others mistakes/wants/needs/etc". Once you have done that you will kick yourself for not going stage 2 sooner.:lol:

 

EDIT: If you really want me to spend 5k for you:

BnR 16g Turbo (will work with oem fueling, if e85 is available, add injectors and ethanol for mid low 300whp easy)

Infamous Oil Line Kit (gotta protect that investment, SEARCH BANJO BOLT)

Aftermarket TMIC (oem is just not going to hold up to 300whp or be effective cooling that much air)

CNT Catted DP (cheap, good, satisfaction promise, comes with all hardware)

Infamous1 e-tune (#1 tuner on the forum. If you have a local tuner that you trust thats great too!)

Koni Struts (the replacement staple)

Epic Springs (my personal favorite for the wonderful DD ride quality)

Comp Clutch/flywheel pkg (cheap bang for buck with all current sales)

Roll Center Kit (if you are lowering, it makes steering feel like bmw)

LCA Bushings (yours are probably toast)

Better Brake Pads than OEM (oem are less than satisfactory)

Decent brake fluid (it makes a difference when hot)

Technafit Brake Lines (yours are likely 7 years old)

Rear Sway Bar and RSB mounts/bushings (consider endlinks and a front swaybar if its in the budget otherwise run the oem endlinks till you manage to break em)

...

and I would add a set of wheels/tires to that and a shifter bushing would probably tighten up what slop is in the shifter after 7 years. Also consider a JCS cubbypod and a boost gauge and wb afr gauge if you can budget for them.

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First off welcome to the forums. Second there is a lot of good info on the site that will answer a ton of questions before you can ask them.

 

So good mods: The up pipe. Stock one has a cat and should be removed. Newer LGTs, WRXs, and all STis have catless up pipes. You can get them used pretty cheap and they are OEM.

 

Maintenance: Subarus don't respond well to lack of maintenance. You will want to make sure that your car is in tip top shape before doing any mods to it. Including getting a good compression test done to make sure your motor is in good shape.

 

Also don't forget to upgrade not only power (300hp to the wheels) is only good if you also do suspension, brakes, etc.

 

-Jake

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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On an 05 LGT you should set aside about $1k just to get it up to snuff in terms of maintenance.

 

Items that should be coming due on an 05 LGT if it hasn't been done at 90-110k miles:

 

Timing Belt w/Waterpump, Tensioner, Pulleys etc.

90k or 120k service

Brakes

Clutch

 

So if you add all that up you are looking at about $1500-2k right there.

 

Once that is squared away (have em do the compression test during the 90k/120k service) then you can think about putting mods on the car.

 

-Mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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Coming from a '92 Talon you'll be disappointed about how finicky your Legacy is (compared to the DSM) when it comes to mods. You'll also find mods are a lot more expensive for the LGT. But with that, the car is a lot more refined than the Talon is, you won't feel rattled to death everytime you go for a ride in it. The extra 25% displacement is definitely nice, although the engine in the LGT is not as volumetrically efficient...
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Also if you want cheap but reliable your stock turbo can make 300 with up pipe down pipe, boost controller, CBE and I had a frount mount with a CAI. You mainly just need to find yourself a good tuner before modding anything really.

 

My stg 2+ dyno

http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy296/JLB1615/a010741c.jpg

 

Sweet! When I set my car's weight to 4030lbs I got 304hp and 342 ft/lbs tq!

 

Woohoo over 300 to the wheels and all I had to do was manipulate software!

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Sweet! When I set my car's weight to 4030lbs I got 304hp and 342 ft/lbs tq!

 

Woohoo over 300 to the wheels and all I had to do was manipulate software!

 

I didn't manipulate or even touch a dyno graph I dont have any software. But you can be that guy

 

*edit: curb weight at the low end 3300 plus three passengers on a road dyno not an actual dyno.... 600 extra pounds... Sounds about right..

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Probably the best first mod for your car is to read though all the 4th gen and tuning stickies... TWICE. Then buy things for the car. Treat your car how you treat yourself. Thoughtfully and plan not to have to do things more than once, by planning. My 2c as someone who as had 2 sets of headers, on my 3rd turbo, 4th intercooler, etc. Its kind-of a "wise man learns from others mistakes/wants/needs/etc". Once you have done that you will kick yourself for not going stage 2 sooner.:lol:

 

EDIT: If you really want me to spend 5k for you:

BnR 16g Turbo (will work with oem fueling, if e85 is available, add injectors and ethanol for mid low 300whp easy)

Infamous Oil Line Kit (gotta protect that investment, SEARCH BANJO BOLT)

Aftermarket TMIC (oem is just not going to hold up to 300whp or be effective cooling that much air)

CNT Catted DP (cheap, good, satisfaction promise, comes with all hardware)

Infamous1 e-tune (#1 tuner on the forum. If you have a local tuner that you trust thats great too!)

Koni Struts (the replacement staple)

Epic Springs (my personal favorite for the wonderful DD ride quality)

Comp Clutch/flywheel pkg (cheap bang for buck with all current sales)

Roll Center Kit (if you are lowering, it makes steering feel like bmw)

LCA Bushings (yours are probably toast)

Better Brake Pads than OEM (oem are less than satisfactory)

Decent brake fluid (it makes a difference when hot)

Technafit Brake Lines (yours are likely 7 years old)

Rear Sway Bar and RSB mounts/bushings (consider endlinks and a front swaybar if its in the budget otherwise run the oem endlinks till you manage to break em)

...

and I would add a set of wheels/tires to that and a shifter bushing would probably tighten up what slop is in the shifter after 7 years. Also consider a JCS cubbypod and a boost gauge and wb afr gauge if you can budget for them.

 

Take the wise man's advice and do exactly this^. If you're not doing everything at once I would do:

 

maintenance>tires(wheels opt.)>brakes>suspension>power>clutch>gauges + cool stuff

 

IMO with OP's budget and goal of reliable 300whp, the above list is everything you need, nothing you don't, done the right way.

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OK! Congratulate yourself because you're the first person to ever get 300whp out of a Stg2 LGT.

 

Post up a real dyno graph from a real shop and then we'll see your awesome power!

 

So do you usually get so angry on the forums?

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