Will These Speakers Fit/Connect/Work?

[FiberglassCustoms]

^ If you plan on doing any Amplification, you are going to need some kind of LOC (line output converter) so you can hook up an Amplifier(s) to your OEM HU.

 

If you plan on replacing your OEM HU, you should start there, otherwise you are going to have a useless LOC on your Hands & since you are on a budget it's wasted $$$.

 

However, amplifying your Component Speakers is NOT Mandatory.

 

Does the $300 budget include the HU & Installation Kit?

 

As far as your OEM Sails go, 1" is pretty Universal. Keep in mind that most tweeters are specifically designed for a specific application under specific circumstances. The sails may not be the best location for the tweeters you select. I advise you to try several locations/positions W/ the Tweeters & figure out where it suits best to YOU-Double Sided Tape works best for this. Typically Soft domes=above waist, Hard Domes=Below Waist. ]

 

If you are dead-set on mounting the tweeters in the OEM Sail Locations for w/e reason, than okay. However, I'd recommend you use Hot Glue To secure them. Hot Glue? Yeah, I know-sounds Cheap doesn't it. Keep in mind "Re-Sale." When you sell your vehicle, you will most likely keep your Sound System So I wouldn't go too hard w/ the dremel-it can Lower Re-Sale Value.

[Stang70Fastback]

Lol, I don't mind having everything in the same thread. It might be a hair confusing, but it's nice to have all the discussion in one place.

 

Would I need a LOC for my setup using my stock head unit? The harness that went to the stock Sub/Amp has all the wires for that stuff, so I would assume I could just splice that connector into the inputs on the new Amp/Sub and be good to go? I would hope to do everything myself. Obviously replacing the door speakers is not difficult, and replacing the Amp/Sub would be rather simple if I went with something similar.

 

Monkey did bring up a good point though. ARE the tweeters in the 610C set direct replacements for the tweeters in our cars? I suppose you wouldn't be the best person to answer that question. Lulzcow said he was running these speakers in his car, so I assume, then that they ARE replacements. Also, wiring wise - do all car speakers use standard connectors? The main speakers use T-connectors which I could see as being perhaps some sort of standard and not Subaru-specific.

[FiberglassCustoms]

I am not familiar W/ your Legacy Outback so I can not help you out on the LOC. I am hoping someone can chime in that is familiar W/ the Pins. Sorry about that:)

 

There are no "Direct Replacements" for OEM Tweeters. Can I get the Specs (Dimensions) on your OEM tweeters? Monkey noted that his OEM Tweeters are 1" so I assume they would fit as the Tweeters supplied in the 610C set are 1" Silks.

 

I would never mount my Tweeter in a Sail behind an OEM Mesh Grill. That's diffraction at it's finest. That would be similar to Installing new Drivers & covering them up W/ blankets. There will be an audible difference mounting your Tweeters in your OEM Locations behind a Mesh Grill vs "Flush Mounting."

 

The 610C set are equipped W/ "Supplied Stealth Mounting Brackets" allowing for a User to house them behind Factory Tweeter Grills.

 

Standard Connectors? Main speakers?

 

I am not sure on what you are trying to ask. Crossovers: The 610C's are equipped w/ low-pass crossovers attached to each woofer's input terminal and high-pass crossovers in-line with the tweeters' speaker wires.

 

Therefore, you will need to use the Supplied Speaker Wires that come with the kit as they include the HP Crossover you NEED for your tweeters.

[FiberglassCustoms]

^ I think I understand your Question now.

 

As far as wiring goes, You are going to need to know how your OEM ones are set up. I am hoping someone can chime in on this. Do your OEM Component Speakers have External Passive Crossovers or are both the tweeter & mid(woofers) directly wired to the HU? I am ASSUMING your OEM Crossover is most likely built in/attached to the Factory Mid(woofers).

[lulzcow]

They are directly wired to the head unit.

At least they were in my Legacy L Wagon, which had an aftermarket unit when I purchased it. I believe the crossover would be in the standard head unit, at least for the models which came with the woofer/amp. Currently my 610s have no frequency filtering of any sort, other than my equalizer being set up in the head unit.

If you are looking for the cleanest sounds from the components, I would go ahead and also grab some crossovers/filters for your speakers. I believe they are like 25 for a set made by Kicker from Best Buy, so they aren't too expensive.

[Stang70Fastback]

Yeah, I think everything is wired straight to the head unit. I would hope that the head unit on the premium model which is designed to have a separate sub would have some sort of crossover ability, but I honestly don't know.

 

EDIT: What if I gave in to peer pressure, and purchased something like [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-P8000BT-Double-Din-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B001411BZ2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top]this[/ame]? How much of a wiring nightmare am I getting into if I replace the stock head unit and the speakers? Am I looking at needing to re-wire everything? Or can I simply get a wiring adapter? I see some online, but all the ones I can find are for a stock system, not a premium system with the tweeters and subwoofer.

[lulzcow]

I wouldn't think it would be too bad. It should be as simple as popping the stock unit out, and either unplugging the wiring harness and plugging the harness into the new unit....or you may have a 1/2 harness which you would then have to disconnect all the individual wiring connections between the old harness and wiring, then reconnect them to the new harness which plugs into the new head unit.

I have had to do the latter before in an early 90's Civic, with upgraded door speakers as well as the same subs/amp I have in the Subaru. It's the longest part of the install, but it is REALLY straightforward. I believe all the wires coloring is pretty much standard so you just match up the colors lol. When I upgraded the headunit in my Subaru, it was basically disconnect the harness from the old headunit and reconnect to the new.

Either way, it should be pretty painless. Time consuming to do the wiring at the worst.

[FiberglassCustoms]

They are directly wired to the head unit.

At least they were in my Legacy L Wagon, which had an aftermarket unit when I purchased it. I believe the crossover would be in the standard head unit, at least for the models which came with the woofer/amp. Currently my 610s have no frequency filtering of any sort, other than my equalizer being set up in the head unit.

If you are looking for the cleanest sounds from the components, I would go ahead and also grab some crossovers/filters for your speakers. I believe they are like 25 for a set made by Kicker from Best Buy, so they aren't too expensive.

 

 

You mean A Hp (High Pass) Filter? As noted earlier, the 610C's DO have a Passive X-Over, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are going to cut the Mid(woofers) off a a certain frequency like 80, or 100hz. Ha, Don't buy another Passive X-Over when there's already one supplied W/ the Component Set:)

 

I really wish I was more familiar W/ your vehicle OP. As long as it doesn't have the Auto Climate Controls like my 05' LGT, I think you're fine:)

 

What would you need to "Re-Wire?"

 

All you will need is your desired aftermarket HU, A dash kit & a Wiring Harness.

 

I advise you to take a step back before you pounce on the Double Din HU you have linked. Is there a specific reason why you are opting for this HU?

[lulzcow]

You mean A Hp? As I noted earlier, the 610C's do have a Passive X-Over, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are going to cut the Mid(woofers) off at 80hz or so or w/e

Exactly, a high pass filter. The 610's do not really filter out bass well.

[Stang70Fastback]

I advise you to take a step back before you pounce on the Double Din HU you have linked. Is there a specific reason why you are opting for this HU?

 

Yes, and I promise all the reasons are completely and utterly stupid:

 

1. I like the look of a double-din unit... and REALLY like the sleek and minimalist look of this one.

 

2. I HATE the look of single din units, which all look like boy ricer toys crammed full of buttons and flashing lights (part of the reason why I didn't want to upgrade at all) and the need to pop them up to put in a CD.

 

Like I said. Terrible reasons.

 

Would I need a filter if I used a head unit like the one I linked, or do most of these nicer units do that for you?

 

EDIT: Just want to say I appreciate you guys continuing to help me out with my cluelessness, stubborness and stupidity, lol.

[FiberglassCustoms]

^ Yeah, all the Passive X-Over is going to do is "Split" the frequencies. Like most Passive X-Overs, there is no filter.

 

If the OP was a bit more Knowledgeable W/ Audio, I'd so head to Madisound OR PE & make some Hp Filters. Aftermarket HU's do have a Hp as well as most Amplifiers:)

[lulzcow]

I have one of Alpine's top of the line single-din units, and it does not have a high pass filter for regular component speakers though, so be prepared to grab some "standalone" high pass filters for your door speakers, if you're extremely picky and don't want that lower bass distortion from your mids and highs.

[monkeyposeur]

I would never mount my Tweeter in a Sail behind an OEM Mesh Grill. That's diffraction at it's finest. That would be similar to Installing new Drivers & covering them up W/ blankets. There will be an audible difference mounting your Tweeters in your OEM Locations behind a Mesh Grill vs "Flush Mounting."

 

That's too bad. I was pretty stoked about finding them. Fortunately, the mesh grill appears to be easy to remove if that is where I decide to place the tweeters if that is where they sound the best.

 

If a grill depreciates the sound quality so much, then what is the best option for our door speakers? There is a plastic grill that covers them, although it is not mesh.

 

Kartboy sells these: http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.php?productid=16154&cat=0&page=1

 

Maybe they could allow us to remove the door speaker vents and get better sound? Or am I missing their application entirely?

 

Stang, that HU looks good. However, I think that I would replace the front speaker components first, see if I am happy, add an amp, and then replace the HU.

[FiberglassCustoms]

I have one of Alpine's top of the line single-din units, and it does not have a high pass filter for regular component speakers though, so be prepared to grab some "standalone" high pass filters for your door speakers, if you're extremely picky and don't want that lower bass distortion from your mids and highs.

 

Huh? I have owned both the Alpine CDA 105 & 9884 & 9887-All of which feature a HPF. If you own one of the "Higher End" units from Alpine, they should be equipped W/ Imprint which should have a High Pass.

[FiberglassCustoms]

That's too bad. I was pretty stoked about finding them. Fortunately, the mesh grill appears to be easy to remove if that is where I decide to place the tweeters if that is where they sound the best.

 

If a grill depreciates the sound quality so much, then what is the best option for our door speakers? There is a plastic grill that covers them, although it is not mesh.

 

Kartboy sells these: http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.php?productid=16154&cat=0&page=1

 

Maybe they could allow us to remove the door speaker vents and get better sound? Or am I missing their application entirely?

 

Stang, that HU looks good. However, I think that I would replace the front speaker components first, see if I am happy, add an amp, and then replace the HU.

 

I am not saying you "can't" mount your Tweeters behind the Mesh Grills in OEM Locations. I am just saying, more than likely you will notice an audible difference vs lets say Flush mounting them. Everyone's ears are different & if you don't have much experience W/ Audio, you probably won't evan notice a difference. Before you get nuts W/ the Dremel, try locating your Tweeters In OEM Locations & try flush mounting them-double sided tape works great for this.

 

Remember, Tweeters Supplied In Component Sets are usually designed for Specific Applications under specific circumstances-Your Sails May not be the Best location for you Tweeters.

 

My opinion: I would Head either W/ a New Source OR some type of OEM Processor Upgrade before Amplifying.

[stevenva]

Here are the measurements on the Subaru factory tweeters http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/does-subaru-h6300as010-tweeter-kit-come-crossovers-157238.html

I replaced all speakers (Alpine coax type S-Not the components).

I added the door "sails" factory tweeters=inexpensive. (they are wired in parallel. They come with a crossover-AKA little capacitor) The wiring for them was already there, taped to the main speaker harness with blue tape. Just plug in. Those factory tweets can crank. They did not burn up using a Pioneer head units power. Now they are even doing fine powered by an Alpine MRP-F300 which is 50x4RMS. I have had this up at levels that I would have expected them to blow, they suprise me. This leads into my next point on the factory radios output, the one you say you want to keep. It's true output is only 7 RMS maximum. Save $. Get coaxials over components/Use the factory tweeters. With that saved you can use it towards a Pioneer, Alpine, ect. head unit that will have those crossovers you were speaking of earlier and some extra power for your new speakers. Not to mention ditching CDs and using iPods or thumb drives instead.

This generation Subaru is one of the most straight forward installs. Here is an in-depth link that covers just about everything. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402

[monkeyposeur]

Thanks stevena! I'll have to look at my tweeters to see if they have the crossovers. So, it they are wired in parallel, then I should just be able to tap into the same connections that power the front door speakers, correct?

 

I just want to say that this thread is super informative!

 

figerglass, what HU would you recommend for us (reasonable price)? The HU that stang is looking at seems nice and adequate.

 

EDIT: stevena, could you look at the pic of my tweeters and let me know what I may be missing for the install?

[FiberglassCustoms]

Factory Tweeters.....

 

Stevena: What Model # is that Alpine? I'm curious to see why you threw coaxial's down there if you were using OEM tweeters? Raw Drivers are typically cheaper.

 

Are you looking for a Double OR Single Din? What features are you looking for?

[stevenva]

Hey Monkey, I looked at your tweeters and they are the same as mine. Looks like someone really cut off a lot of extra wire. Do you see that plug that is about 3" from the tweeter? Un-plug it and toss the leftover wire. You will not need it. You will find the same harness you just threw away inside your door panel, taped to the main speakers harness. It is already wired to the 6 1/2 and ready to go. Simply plug in your tweeter to that harness and snap the tweeter in place. Glued to the base of the tweeter is a small black capacitor, that is your crossover. If you really know what you are looking for, (and a little luck), you can dig out the harness with a small hook without removing the door card. Here is a head unit you may want to consider. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31077_Pioneer-DEH-P8300UB.html

There are others with more, others with less, but I like 3 sets of 4V line outs with mine because I run amps.

[monkeyposeur]

I cut off all the extra wire in case I needed it for splicing. The yard was closing so I only had a few minutes to remove them. I hope I have the same harness inside my door panel. That would make it easy to plug them in. My leggy is a 95.

[Kennyfvholla]

Odds are, you will have all the wiring you need to install the tweeter assemblies. They didn't come on my GT standard and weren't even an option. In 95 they were an option on LS and standard on LSi models. In 96 they were only installed on the LSi models, and was standard.

[stevenva]

Stevena: What Model # is that Alpine? I'm curious to see why you threw coaxial's down there if you were using OEM tweeters? Raw Drivers are typically cheaper.

Alpine SPS-610s coaxial type S. I started installing my car stereo 2 summers ago. I started with replacing all of the speakers because the foam surrounds had deteriorated. This last spring I saw this tweeter upgrade kit (Subaru part # H6300AS010) for sale. It was timing, that's all.

Monkey, your wire harness is there

[FiberglassCustoms]

^ I mean the Amplifier- I would have went W/ Raw Drivers vs Coaxial based on you are already using OEM Tweeters up in your Sails-There wouldn't be any purpose for Tweeters down there

[stevenva]

Mains are Alpine MRP-F300

Sub is Alpine MRP-M500 driving a 12" type R

[FiberglassCustoms]

If either of the OP's are going to retain their OEM Tweeters & use an External Amplifier, they may want to look into an Amplifier W/ Bandpassable Capabilities. Typically, Raw Drivers are cheaper & he/she can achieve greater results because all Raw Drivers are specifically designed for a specific application under specific circumstances.

 

I mean, if you can find an Amplifier W/ Bandpassable Capabilities in your Price Range, than I personally would Opt for one & head w/ Raw Drivers IF they will be retaining their OEM Tweeters.

 

But, "Coaxial's" in general are fairly cheap

 

-Tyler